DIY Home Improvement Thread..

[steve09ru]

On 12/5/2022 at 4:31 PM, CousinsCowgirl84 said:

Are you gonna paint the valence too??

Valence is a lighter stain (thought i grabbed the same stain for the mantle and bench but grabbed a slightly darker)

[Thinking Skins]

Ok, plumbing question here

 

So handyman came today to fix a toilet problem. It was wasting water so I had turned the valve off so it didn't work. He fixed it. Yay

 

But now on that toilet and another one (haven't he l checked them all) there's suns low pressure water saving doohickey that seems to cause problems. And he didn't leave a box or manufacturer name so I can't look it up. I'll probably call him tomorrow but just got tonight I wanted to see if I could get some answers. 

 

1. Is the toilet water supposed to be lower now, like after I flush, it doesn't come back up to where it used to. I guess that's part of the saving water but want to make sure. 

 

2. When I flush. The first time it almost always does nothing. Not nothing like there's no water in the tank, but nothing like it doesn't always take everything down the drain. So I wind up flushing 2 or 3 times. Maybe I'm doing the low pressure flush and don't know how to do a high pressure flush. 

 

3. Can I adjust the valves inside the tank to get more water inside or other things? 

 

I really wish I had an instruction manual. Normally I never read those things, but I'm feeling so lost with this

[PokerPacker]

11 minutes ago, Thinking Skins said:

Ok, plumbing question here

 

So handyman came today to fix a toilet problem. It was wasting water so I had turned the valve off so it didn't work. He fixed it. Yay

 

But now on that toilet and another one (haven't he l checked them all) there's suns low pressure water saving doohickey that seems to cause problems. And he didn't leave a box or manufacturer name so I can't look it up. I'll probably call him tomorrow but just got tonight I wanted to see if I could get some answers. 

 

1. Is the toilet water supposed to be lower now, like after I flush, it doesn't come back up to where it used to. I guess that's part of the saving water but want to make sure. 

 

2. When I flush. The first time it almost always does nothing. Not nothing like there's no water in the tank, but nothing like it doesn't always take everything down the drain. So I wind up flushing 2 or 3 times. Maybe I'm doing the low pressure flush and don't know how to do a high pressure flush. 

 

3. Can I adjust the valves inside the tank to get more water inside or other things? 

 

I really wish I had an instruction manual. Normally I never read those things, but I'm feeling so lost with this

1. If you see where the water line goes into the toilet, that doohickey has a floaty thing on the inside of the tank that shuts off the water when it gets to a set height.  That should be adjustable.  The ones I installed a month ago had a twisty-dial to set the shut-off height.

 

2. Maybe there's a problem with the stopper not floating after you flush allowing it to seal the hole the water is supposed to be coming through rather than waiting for the tank to empty before sealing up?  Probably helps to open the tank and watch what happens when you flush.

 

[Thinking Skins]

I think the new model is a fluid master anti siphon 400. There's some kind of knob that said turn one way for higher water, and the other for lower but it seems way more effort than the old chain way of doing it. 

[The 12th Commandment]

12 minutes ago, Thinking Skins said:

I think the new model is a fluid master anti siphon 400. There's some kind of knob that said turn one way for higher water, and the other for lower but it seems way more effort than the old chain way of doing it. 

 

If that's not your issue there are plenty more.  YouTube is invaluable when it comes to home improvement stuff.

[CousinsCowgirl84]

Take a picture of the toilet tank with the lid off. 

[zCommander]

3 hours ago, Thinking Skins said:

Ok, plumbing question here

 

So handyman came today to fix a toilet problem. It was wasting water so I had turned the valve off so it didn't work. He fixed it. Yay

 

But now on that toilet and another one (haven't he l checked them all) there's suns low pressure water saving doohickey that seems to cause problems. And he didn't leave a box or manufacturer name so I can't look it up. I'll probably call him tomorrow but just got tonight I wanted to see if I could get some answers. 

 

1. Is the toilet water supposed to be lower now, like after I flush, it doesn't come back up to where it used to. I guess that's part of the saving water but want to make sure. 

 

2. When I flush. The first time it almost always does nothing. Not nothing like there's no water in the tank, but nothing like it doesn't always take everything down the drain. So I wind up flushing 2 or 3 times. Maybe I'm doing the low pressure flush and don't know how to do a high pressure flush. 

 

3. Can I adjust the valves inside the tank to get more water inside or other things? 

 

I really wish I had an instruction manual. Normally I never read those things, but I'm feeling so lost with this

 

There are 2 things with your new flusher. 

1. The dial can be set to allow how much water is in the bowl. I usually set in the middle and then either go low or high to see how much water is in the bowl. 

2. As for the actual water flushing the stem on the flusher can be adjusted up and and down to stop the water from filling at a certain point. This control how much water is filled up in the tank. Look at the old water mark line that was there before see if the water comes to that line. The stem can be adjusted by just simply pulling up to allow more water or pushed down for less water in tank. 

 

Lastly, The chain he put on the flusher will control how long the flap stays open to allow the water to go down the big hole for the flush. I suspect the chain is not on the correct hole (at the top arm). Take the pin and and move it to the right or end of the stem. That should make the difference. 

 

Edited January 6 by zCommander

[Wildbunny]

I'm actually looking to redo and modernize my power tools, because I've got tons of ideas for my home. Most of them are getting old now and were mostly cheap tools.

 

So, I'd like to improve their quality and thought it would be better to go with the same brand. Thus having one kind of batteries for them all, and not having to deal with different ones.

 

Since I'm not planning to buy them all at once, budget is not much of a problem as I'm also not intending to buy 50 different tools. Maybe that's what I'll reach in the end, but, right now, not the goal.

 

I would go with a screwdriver, drill, jigsaw, circular one. Basic beginning stuff. that I'll complete as time goes by.

 

Ok, everything seems fine, except I don't really know with which brand to run, and that's where I need help. I've considered brands like Bosch, Makita, Milwaukee, Dewalt, mainly but still haven't set my mind. As of now, I would say that Bosch and Milwaukee are out. I've already had some Bosch tools and they're good, but they aren't also great. Had some experience with Makita at work, and it's been good, so I do like it, they got one battery to rule them all, so the brand fits what I want to do, they got a ****ing range of tools for almost everything so it's good too.

 

I had to use some DeWalt too, and that's cool stuff too. Everything I've read about it seems interesting and those 54V tools are intriguing. That can make up for wired tools too. But then, we're not on the same kind of batteries and that's not exactly what I'm looking for. But I'm still tempted.

 

So, any advice on which brand should I go with? Hopefully I'll make the ride for the next 20 years, so I don't want to choose this in a hurry.

[Fergasun]

Leaky kitchen faucet for the past 3 weeks. It was either the hot or cold supply line which is integrated into the faucet.   3 year old faucet too.  Kraus USA sent me an entire replacement. 

 

"Oh, this looks easy" ... turned into "great, the garbage disposal is in the way."  I have never had good luck with under sink PVC plumbing.  

 

Got to it today... just finished it up.  Looks like it is fixed and I put both the disposal and faucet back correctly.  When I got closer to the faucet underneatb I realized there should be a countersink (or a notch to allow for the mounting washer to go up the shank?) in the framing of the cabinet to allow for the washer and nut to sit flush.... part of the framing interferes with the nut.  I packed the area up with plumbers putty to have more surface area.  

 

PlumberMc Plumbyface... hired by my general strikes again!

[The Evil Genius]

Correct me if I'm wrong but there should be a base that the door stop is screwed in/attached to, correct? 

 

It's definitely not screwed in through the other side of the door...

 

Edited April 4 by The Evil Genius

[Captain Wiggles]

Don't those spring door stops go on the baseboard or wall? 🤔

[TheGoodBits]

16 minutes ago, The Evil Genius said:

Correct me if I'm wrong but there should be a base that the door stop is screwed in/attached to, correct? 

 

It's definitely not screwed in through the other side of the door...

 

That should be in the wall trim, not the door, so you can set the screw in a thicker piece of wood. It does have a base though. Unscrew it by the spring. The end of the spring gets threaded into the base. 

Edited April 4 by TheGoodBits

[The Evil Genius]

41 minutes ago, TheGoodBits said:

That should be in the wall trim, not the door, so you can set the screw in a thicker piece of wood. It does have a base though. Unscrew it by the spring. The end of the spring gets threaded into the base. 

 

Just trying to repair what was already there when we bought the house. Agree that it shouldn't have been on the door though. 

[CousinsCowgirl84]

Remove it a caulk the hole and put it on the wall, I doubt you’ll notice unless you starting at it.

[Pwyl]

Those things are cool until your kid discovers they can flick it and make it go sprrrrooooiiiingggg.   I tossed every one in the house when the boy turned 2. 

[Captain Wiggles]

[stoshuaj]

12 hours ago, CousinsCowgirl84 said:

Remove it a caulk the hole and put it on the wall, I doubt you’ll notice unless you starting at it.

would suggest wood filler or patch so you can sand and paint it.  But either way, take that out of the door and into the moulding or you’re just going to end up w more holes in the door.

[CousinsCowgirl84]

3 hours ago, stoshuaj said:

would suggest wood filler or patch so you can sand and paint it.  But either way, take that out of the door and into the moulding or you’re just going to end up w more holes in the door.

I am thinking white caulk when match the door enough.

[dfitzo53]

19 hours ago, CousinsCowgirl84 said:

I am thinking white caulk when match the door enough.

That's not what caulk is made for though. It shrinks over time, which is not what you want for filling a gap or hole in a piece of wood. 

 

Granted, it's a hole in a mostly out of the way spot, so it'll be pretty unnoticeable. If you already have white caulk on hand, may as well use it if you don't feel like buying another product you'll only use a tiny bit of. 

 

If you're going to have to run to the hardware store anyway, may as well buy the right product to do the job properly. 

[Fergasun]

Every head of household's dream.  Water heater not making hot water! Happened 24 hours ago... we did have lukewarm water yesterday.  Not so much today.  

 

Did I mention this thing is only 3 years old? 

 

Called the manufacturer... yes a new control valve and some other part is on they way. That doesn't give us hot showers today.

 

Apparently the Honeywell Gas Control Valves that nearly everyone has (regardless of brand) are prone to failure.  So many Youtube videos and tips.  I was getting "7 blinks" error code.  Maybe going back 7 or 8 years people were getting "4 blinks" error code.  What just worked for me was to turn it off, wait 5 to 10 minutes, re-light the pilot and set it to the "very hot" setting.  

 

I have hard water, so I need to drain it out too (it's never been drained). 

 

Wondering why no one has designed and sold a non-Honeywell replacement. 

 

[The 12th Commandment]

8 minutes ago, Fergasun said:

Every head of household's dream.  Water heater not making hot water! Happened 24 hours ago... we did have lukewarm water yesterday.  Not so much today.  

 

Did I mention this thing is only 3 years old? 

 

Called the manufacturer... yes a new control valve and some other part is on they way. That doesn't give us hot showers today.

 

Apparently the Honeywell Gas Control Valves that nearly everyone has (regardless of brand) are prone to failure.  So many Youtube videos and tips.  I was getting "7 blinks" error code.  Maybe going back 7 or 8 years people were getting "4 blinks" error code.  What just worked for me was to turn it off, wait 5 to 10 minutes, re-light the pilot and set it to the "very hot" setting.  

 

I have hard water, so I need to drain it out too (it's never been drained). 

 

Wondering why no one has designed and sold a non-Honeywell replacement. 

 

I have an AO Smith that uses that controller.  I found a YouTube where you use a paperclip to reset it by shorting it out basically.  Saved me the cost of a plumber and no telling how much for the parts twice.  We have hard water too, calcium, and I drain it every other year.

[Fergasun]

Well that fix didn't hold long enough.  At least 2 family members had showers.  The next fix is to discharge capacitors and do a hard reset.  I did read that it could save the fault to memory permanently. 

[Thinking Skins]

My wife thinks very low is me right now because it took me months to fix a towel bar on the bathroom because I put the anchors in backwards. I felt little a three stooges skit. 

[TheGreatBuzz]

Hypothetically if my neighbors wall has a leak that causes mold and damage to my house, does it even matter the source?