DIY Home Improvement Thread..

[skinfan2k]

Pretty much, this. Any person you find should come recommended and it's really a plus to be able to see the work in person. 

 

We don't have anyone. That's the issue. We had a guy who was great but he retired. 

[Elessar78]

Where are you located? Maybe ES can throw some names your way?

[skinfan2k]

Where are you located? Maybe ES can throw some names your way?

 

in the intermediate DC area.  I'm in PG County near bowie

[Slateman]

Update time!!!!!!



Drywall time. Since I figured that it would house the washing machine and dryer, I elected to use the mold resistant drywall in the new laundry closet. The ceilings of all the closets have it as well, as it's right underneath the HVAC vent. As I was tearing it apart, I noticed condensation, so I figured that the mod resistant stuff would be the best option.


Coat closet next to the new laundry closet. It was right about here that I believe I started pooping dry wall during the workday.


So this is the other side, in the bed room. As you can see, there is still some space left over for a closet. And this bedroom has another closet on the opposite corner of the room that is now about the same width (but much deeper).


Drywall complete, mudding done, paint applied. Even the baseboards are installed. At this point, the only thing left to do was hook up the electrical and connect the dryer vent. My wife put in a coat rack on the left, and that tape on the right is for shelving in the near future.


LOOK WHAT ARRIVED TODAY!!!!!!!

Gotta say, the last bit of vent work was a colossal ****. The delivery guys were early and they had to take the old washer and dryer first (I was using the old dryer to stand on and get up in to the ceiling). Ended up buying a  step ladder and having my wife help push the last bit of pipe in to the connector. But it's in. And the latest test from the vent shows there is quite a bit of air being pushed out.

Well, that's it for a little while. I might post some pictures of the kitchen when I knock the wall down and it's open.

[Elessar78]

I got grass to grow on that site where I dug the drainage pipe. Might not seem like an accomplishment to most of you but I'm damn proud. I don't think I've grown anything since 2nd grade science class. 

 

I bought a plant for my office to give the space a little life. 3 weeks in and the secretary was watering it for me. 

Update time!!!!!!

 

That's some impressive building there! Looks good.

[Slateman]

Yes, it has turned out well. A lot of work, but it looks really good right now.

 

My new washer and dryer play a little song when the cycle is done

[fitz2]

Just thought I’d add that it makes sense to think about some extra issues to help reduce your energy consumption when remodeling the laundry or bathroom -

http://www.platinumelectricians.com.au/blog/index.php/2015/05/28/ultimate-diy-home-energy-audit/

 

[The Evil Genius]

We've been in our house for 11 years (the house is about 25 years old) and when we bought it there was a small crack at the top of the stairs wall. That crack has expanded in those 11 years.

 

I remember the home inspector saying that it was an easy fix (and a common crack that occurs from the house settling) and that they made some type gel/puddy exclusively for repair (not just spackle)...has anyone ever heard of that or done that? I found another crack near the ceiling in another room and am hoping to repair both.

[zoony]

Just thought I’d add that it makes sense to think about some extra issues to help reduce your energy consumption when remodeling the laundry or bathroom -

http://www.platinumelectricians.com.au/blog/index.php/2015/05/28/ultimate-diy-home-energy-audit/

 

 

Proper rim joist insulation is probably one of the most important things a house can have from an energy standpoint.  That survey doesn't even mention it.

 

Floor insulation is worthless.  Especially in a crawlspace.  Beyond worthless, floor insulation in a crawlspace can actually do damage.

 

Not a well put together survey

[pointyfootball]

We've been in our house for 11 years (the house is about 25 years old) and when we bought it there was a small crack at the top of the stairs wall. That crack has expanded in those 11 years.

 

I remember the home inspector saying that it was an easy fix (and a common crack that occurs from the house settling) and that they made some type gel/puddy exclusively for repair (not just spackle)...has anyone ever heard of that or done that? I found another crack near the ceiling in another room and am hoping to repair both.

It maybe is an "easy" fix.  I've used caulk before to fill settling cracks.  Make sure it's paintable and try to fill quite a bit of the crack.

[dfitzo53]

We rent out a 2BR condo.  We recently received a letter from the condo complex that some of the water heaters from the original construction of the building (which ours is) have begun to fail and leak, causing damage to floors below.  They are recommending that everyone replace them sooner rather than later.

 

What's the best way to go about this?  Should I expect to buy the heater from the company that installs it, or should I purchase the heater myself and just pay someone to put it in?

 

Gas heater basically in a walk-in closet it shares with washer/dryer if that matters.  It's a "laundry room", but it's not very large.  Tenant pays all utilities.

[steve09ru]

If you have good home warranty (which I'm assuming you do since you rent out), I would go through them to replace it.  Brand new for $100 or so (depending on deductible, etc.)

[Major Harris]

L 8l

[steve09ru]

L 8l

not sure if that at was meant for an 'lol' but in-laws replaced their water heater for 75 bucks. We got brand new dishwasher for 50.

[Major Harris]

not sure if that at was meant for an 'lol' but in-laws replaced their water heater for 75 bucks. We got brand new dishwasher for 50.

I think that was my first pocket phone post on es.

[MattFancy]

So anyone here ever done any tiling before?

 

Doing a bar top and want to know if I can just tile right over the plywood (it's a subfloor) or if I need cement backer board or something similar down over top. I've heard different stories and I'm not sure which one is right. Since it's a bar top, I don't think I'd have problems with the plywood expanding/contracting, especially since the plywood is framed around by oak boards.

[GoSkins0721]

So anyone here ever done any tiling before?

 

Doing a bar top and want to know if I can just tile right over the plywood (it's a subfloor) or if I need cement backer board or something similar down over top. I've heard different stories and I'm not sure which one is right. Since it's a bar top, I don't think I'd have problems with the plywood expanding/contracting, especially since the plywood is framed around by oak boards.

 

I'm not an expert, but both times I've done tile (foyer & small bathroom) I've used cement board. It's cheap & easy to cut. The other thing, when I tore out the old bathroom tiles all I had to do was tear out the backer board that held the tiles instead of trying to pry up the tiles, grout & mortar. A hell of a lot easier. A crow bar near where it was nailed down & just rip it out. I put the new board down with screws. 

[tshile]

So anyone here ever done any tiling before?

 

Doing a bar top and want to know if I can just tile right over the plywood (it's a subfloor) or if I need cement backer board or something similar down over top. I've heard different stories and I'm not sure which one is right. Since it's a bar top, I don't think I'd have problems with the plywood expanding/contracting, especially since the plywood is framed around by oak boards.

 

I've done a lot of tiling.

 

I tried the shortcuts, and it's always cost me. To be fair, it's floors that have been trouble. I've found the only way to do tile that lasts is to do it on proper cement board, which itself needs to be properly secured to the floor.

 

Everyone I know that's taken short cuts has also has their tile fall apart eventually. If you do it right it'll last.

 

Now you're doing a bar top... which means people won't be walking on it... you can probably get away with cutting corners, just like you can if you're doing a back splash. But if you wanted to do it 'right" you'd put it on cement board. I would think you could get away with the 1/4 inch stuff since no one will be walking on it... but if it doesn't work out, you can't say you weren't warned

 

Seriously I've had tile jobs fall apart enough that I just don't cut corners. That work is not worth doing more than you have to, and you're just not saving that much money...

 

I also always get the premixed mortar now. The extra money is worth the ease of cleanup and not worrying about mixing it too thin (i've done that before )

[pointyfootball]

So anyone here ever done any tiling before?

 

Doing a bar top and want to know if I can just tile right over the plywood (it's a subfloor) or if I need cement backer board or something similar down over top. I've heard different stories and I'm not sure which one is right. Since it's a bar top, I don't think I'd have problems with the plywood expanding/contracting, especially since the plywood is framed around by oak boards.

If your subfloor is 3/4" plywood, you can just screw 1/2 plywood directly over that, running perpendicular with original subfloor, with many 1 1/4" drywall screws (make sure to sink them).  

 

Tiling sucks, but if done right is a fantastic flooring choice. 

 

Edit:  Bit confused reading your post, as it sounds like you're tiling a bar, but then you say subfloor.  If truly a subfloor, you need a rigid floor (I still say second layer of plywood is more than adequate) to put tile on. Subfloor flexing is not good for ceramic tile.

Edited September 21, 2015 by pointyfootball

[MattFancy]

If your subfloor is 3/4" plywood, you can just screw 1/2 plywood directly over that, running perpendicular with original subfloor, with many 1 1/4" drywall screws (make sure to sink them).  

 

Tiling sucks, but if done right is a fantastic flooring choice. 

 

Edit:  Bit confused reading your post, as it sounds like you're tiling a bar, but then you say subfloor.  If truly a subfloor, you need a rigid floor (I still say second layer of plywood is more than adequate) to put tile on. Subfloor flexing is not good for ceramic tile.

 

It's a bar top that is made of sub floor 3/4" plywood. Sorry for the confusion!

[pointyfootball]

IMHO, cement board PLUS tile over that would be overkill (that'd be 1.5" of material!), so I'd just make sure the plywood is well fastened and even.  Unless you are having dancers on top of it, it will be fine.  And even if you are, no one will be looking at the cracked tile on your bar!

[Major Harris]

i just tiled a bathroom floor.  instead of cement board, i used this:

 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_379129-36265-DITRA5M_0__

 

it's super easy, and isn't as thick as cement board.  it's also a lot lighter, easier to cut, less messy...and you can put the tile down immediately, you don't have to wait for the mortar to set..  it's what the cool kids are doing nowadays

Edited September 22, 2015 by Major Harris

[MattFancy]

Had a tile guy come look at it today. He's been doing tiling for 30+ years. He doesn't seem to think I need any layer underneath it.

 

I've read things that said yes and no. But he was saying since it's not a floor and it's not like there will be much weight on it at all, that I shouldn't have any problems.

[Major Harris]

Yeah take his word for it. Save time and money

[LD0506]

Sheesh, nothin in a month? Did y'all just stop everything once the season began?

 

I'm lucky enough to have a house that was worked on by mental patients, so I never run outta things that need fixing. Tearing apart, rebuilding exterior walls, drainage plane, house wrap, etc., just to keep me out of trouble.