Rocket442Olds Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 First you need to test your relief valve that it is working correctly. Bring a pot or something down that you can put right up to the valve, and gently pull up on the metal tab, it should start shooting some water out (it will be hot). Once you turn it off, it shouldn't drip much. If it does you probably need a new valve. I had a rental property where it would open every couple days even after replacing valves no matter what we did, we had to put a water pressure regulator in as the water from the city was too high. Not sure what it is in your case, but could be the valve is going bad or too high of pressure coming into the tank. Based on the picture it looks like its a very small drip that is happening so it could be the valve is starting to go bad. You can replace them yourself, Youtube it and folks surely have done installation videos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vilandil Tasardur Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Alright guys, I'm calling in reinforcements. My wife and I are having new Linoleum floor put in on the first floor (entrance hall, living room, and dining room). The current floor was partial carpet and partial laminate already (just hideous). It is all installed over concrete, not wood. Home Depot is doing the install. However, we were able to cut the price in half by doing the removal and disposal ourselves. We knew it would be a decent amount of elbow grease, but we're young (or she is!) and not afraid to put in our weekend. Home Depot assured us that, because it was a laminate floor put on concrete, it would be as simple as popping the floor planks off. Well, welcome to home ownership. Nothing is as easy as it ought to be. The previous owner did the floor himself, and he glued the laminate straight to the concrete. Home depot insists they have no idea why anyone would do that, but that's neither here nor there. I need to get this floor up this weekend and need ideas on the best way to go about it. For the most part, it comes up in decent enough chunks with a crow bar, a floor scraper, and a handful of the right tools. But there are definitely some substantial areas where the glue is hella fused to the concrete. Those planks refuse to come off and instead do nothing but splinter. It's impossible to get underneath them and if you do, you just end up ripping a small chunk off instead of sliding under the entire area. Any ideas on how to get underneath this adhesive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoony Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Rent a rotary hammer from Home Depot with a chisel bit. SDS+ should be fine. Use that, much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Do you bring your grills in during the winter or just get a heavy duty cover for it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vilandil Tasardur Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 (edited) Rent a rotary hammer from Home Depot with a chisel bit. SDS+ should be fine. Use that, much easier. Just curious, why a rotary hammer? I see that they also rent a floor stripper. Is that not what I would want? Is the floor stripper more for getting the existing floor up, rather than they glue itself? http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/hammer-drills/1-18-in-10-amp-heavy-duty-sds-variable-speed-rotary-hammer-69274.html Is this the sort of thing you're suggesting? That seems like a tad over kill, no? Won't that bust up my concrete? Edited January 9, 2015 by Vilandil Tasardur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popeman38 Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Do you bring your grills in during the winter or just get a heavy duty cover for it?I leave mine outside. I got a Weber when I moved into my new house partly because it has a 20 yr warranty for everyrhing except the flavor is or bars and the grates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoony Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Just curious, why a rotary hammer? I see that they also rent a floor stripper. Is that not what I would want? Is the floor stripper more for getting the existing floor up, rather than they glue itself? http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/hammer-drills/1-18-in-10-amp-heavy-duty-sds-variable-speed-rotary-hammer-69274.html Is this the sort of thing you're suggesting? That seems like a tad over kill, no? Won't that bust up my concrete? That's a cordless sds but you get the idea. And to emphasize, you DO NOT want a hammer drill. Don't say hammer drill. That is something completely different. You want a rotary hammer. Big, big difference. And good lord man, stay away from harbor freight. A 1-1/8" hammer for $89? Ugh. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vilandil Tasardur Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 That's a cordless sds but you get the idea. And to emphasize, you DO NOT want a hammer drill. Don't say hammer drill. That is something completely different. You want a rotary hammer. Big, big difference. And good lord man, stay away from harbor freight. A 1-1/8" hammer for $89? Ugh. Thanks much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Harris Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 No such thing as overkill when it comes to man projects. More power! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoSkins0721 Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Do you bring your grills in during the winter or just get a heavy duty cover for it? Bring it in? How the heck can I grill if I bring it inside? Get a good cover and make sure you keep it tied to prevent the wind from blowing it off. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pointyfootball Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Do you bring your grills in during the winter or just get a heavy duty cover for it? Both. I have BGE that I built a table with wheels on it, so I roll it into my screened porch area so that I don't have to shovel snow/ice off of it. Extends the "get ready" time by 5 minutes, but worth it in my opinion. And good lord man, stay away from harbor freight. A 1-1/8" hammer for $89? Ugh. They're disposable! Join the rotary hammer club (run by the same people who brought you dollar shave club). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pointyfootball Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 So I know there will be a ton of varying opinions, but I am looking for people's recent experience (preferably those who do significant home improvement work like decks, remodeling) on their purchases of cordless drills. My DeWalt 18V (purchased in 1997) can only hold a charge for like 3 screw drives now. I'm sad, because that drill has done EVERYTHING (finished multiple basements, many decks, roofing, built a library, zipline stands, treehouse, and many other projects), so I might bronze it. First thought is to stay with DeWalt based on my experience over the past 17 years. Tips/advice/experience of anyone who's bought a cordless in the past 5-7 years? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LD0506 Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Personally I love DeWalt cordless, maybe you could just get another 18V kit and have two drills handy? That's probably cheaper/ more bang fer the buck than just batteries anyway if it's just a question of holding a charge. When I find something that works I tend to stick with it so I'd probably go that route. And as far as zoony's comment, you get what you pay for w/ HF, you just need a tool now for this job, it can be a deal. You need one for a lot of work over time, buy quality. I buy their 4" grinders and oscillating multitools dirt cheap and beat the livin' **** outta them, I get my moneysworth and then some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Can I get a spectrum of power tool quality by brand? Is it . . . DeWalt <---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------> Harbor Freight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoony Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 So I know there will be a ton of varying opinions, but I am looking for people's recent experience (preferably those who do significant home improvement work like decks, remodeling) on their purchases of cordless drills. My DeWalt 18V (purchased in 1997) can only hold a charge for like 3 screw drives now. I'm sad, because that drill has done EVERYTHING (finished multiple basements, many decks, roofing, built a library, zipline stands, treehouse, and many other projects), so I might bronze it. First thought is to stay with DeWalt based on my experience over the past 17 years. Tips/advice/experience of anyone who's bought a cordless in the past 5-7 years? You want a 20v setup, brushless. DCK296M2. You don't think you need the impact driver but you most definitely do Can I get a spectrum of power tool quality by brand? Is it . . . DeWalt <---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------> Harbor Freight It depends on what it is, and what category. But the long and the short of it, DeWalt, Makita, Bosch, Hilti, and Milwaukee are the professional brands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PCS Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 If you'd asked this about 10 years ago,I probably would have said the old Makitas. They were still hovering around the majority of job sites of the good to best crews working. At least framing and finish. Even the sparkies. We had them on the one crew I worked for for many years. Durable and the batteries did not die. Easily that is. Recently though,Dewalt,Milwaukee,,Bosch,Hitachiand even Rigid are making some pretty tough,long lasting drills. For the money,(as in a bit cheaper),Hitachi makes a nice little impact that while it isn't brushless,it does have a relatively easy way of changing out the brushes. Going big,I'd get any of the first three I mentioned or the one above specifically. That's a nice kit and I've been looking recently myself. The only brand I haven't used a lot of over the years has been Milwaukee,though those ******s are comfortable to use. Now while every man should own a good impact,a good old heavy duty guy is good to have around too. zoony will like this since he bleeds black and yellow . The DCD990M2. Big little ****er and a nice drill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tshile Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 (edited) I have a bunch of Ryobi tools my dad got me when i bought my house a few years ago. They're definitely Harry Homeowner tools and not professional grade, but for the most part I've been happy with them. I have their full stand tile saw and it works great. The cordless battery packs I got are my only complaint. It doesn't seem to matter what I do, if I do not hook them up well in advance there is no charge available when I need them. Since I'm terrible at planning stuff out 24 hours in advance and hookup up all my batteries the night before doing work, this has made those tools essentially unusable for me. I have no idea how other brands compare, but I've basically moved away from battery pack cordless tools... Edited January 9, 2015 by tshile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Harris Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 You want a 20v setup, brushless. DCK296M2. You don't think you need the impact driver but you most definitely do It depends on what it is, and what category. But the long and the short of it, DeWalt, Makita, Bosch, Hilti, and Milwaukee are the professional brands. where does the porter cable fit in? i've been very happy with mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoony Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 where does the porter cable fit in? i've been very happy with mine. Porter cable cordless is a "tradesman" line. For the serious DIYer or light duty commercial For the commercial job site where you've got a guy that gets a cigarette break if he is able to burn up his tool, PC is not the one you want. But it is a great tool for guys like you and me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lombardi's_kid_brother Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 No such thing as overkill when it comes to man projects. More power! You really just quoted Tim Allen. In 2015. I had no idea that you were 68 years old. Aren't you losing money by not taking your pension and drawing Social Security? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoony Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 And guys, since we are talking about cordless, just a little industry knowledge. There are only two manufacturers of lithium batteries. (Sanyo who was bought by Sony, and Panasonic). Everyone buys from them. Hence Tesla building a multi billion dollar lithium manufacturing plant in the US so they can build an affordable battery powered car. Just be careful about saying certain brands have better batteries. Sure, if you buy a Ryobi, the spec will be far less than a Makita, but if you are comparing apples to apples, the batteries are essentially the same. Be very careful too about proprietary claims on battery chemistry. There are some manufacturers who have sub branded their batteries and making claims about them. Just know they bought them from the same supplier as their competition did. Makes you wonder what else they're BSing about 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Harris Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 You really just quoted Tim Allen. In 2015. I had no idea that you were 68 years old. Aren't you losing money by not taking your pension and drawing Social Security? Yeah but living in your mom's basement makes up for it 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Harris Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 And what the hell are you doing in this thread anyways lkb? You aren't going to find any race related things to argue about.....maybe we'll get an explanation about black and Decker. Go ahead 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.T.real,lights,out Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Anyone have any experience with their propane tanks freezing up? Heat shut off this morning and i believe the reason is the tanks or the line froze up. It got down to -16 last night. Do you know if i can just wrap the tanks in insulation? Looked online and the sell heated blankets for them but they are like $900. Dont want to spend that kind of money for 1 or 2 days out of the year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Propane is liquid at -45°F and turns into a gas at -44°F. I doubt that was the issue. Now water vapor in the lines is a different story, but there'd have to be a lot of that to freeze a pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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