skinfan2k Posted February 8, 2020 Share Posted February 8, 2020 1 minute ago, zskins said: Once you have Google drive installed you can just drag and drop the photos into a folder(s) you create on Google online. That is how I have done it. I would just do that before going to sleep and let it just run overnight. Highly recommend attaching a network cable to your computer instead of using a WiFi connection for faster transfer speed. will that cause issues with duplicate photos? I have already used 12/15 GBs on my google drive. OK will follow your instructions with the network cable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zCommander Posted February 8, 2020 Share Posted February 8, 2020 1 minute ago, skinfan2k said: will that cause issues with duplicate photos? I have already used 12/15 GBs on my google drive. OK will follow your instructions with the network cable If you have all the photos still on your computer then delete everything on Google drive and start over. You can also get more storage from Google drive for like $12 a year for a 1TB I think. Another option would be to create a new Google account with a new email address. If you have Office 365 it also comes with 1TB storage as well. One Drive is another option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forehead Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 (edited) Okay, so I need help because I'm not the most tech savvy person around. Semi-competent, but not great. We bought our kids cheap laptops for this whole distance learning thing we have to worry about, and I was setting them up tonight. I signed into my Windows account on their laptops because it got them access to Word and Excel without us having to pay for it again. Downside to this is that because of this OneDrive thing, it also downloaded all of my files to their laptops. I've been doing some testing and anything I move or create on any laptop makes the same changes to all the others. How do I undo this? No, before you make jokes, I do not have porn on my computer that is going to pop up on theirs. I do however, have a lot of financial stuff...budgets, previous years of taxes, documents for our housing search, not to mention work documents. I really don't want them screwing with these, accidentally or on purpose. And on the flip side, I really don't want all their school assignments showing up on my computer. Is there some way to "disconnect" our computers from each other but still maintain my Microsoft sign-in on their laptops so they can use Microsoft office? Thanks Edited April 9, 2020 by Forehead Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forehead Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 Nevermind, figured it out. Stupid Windows....or me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renegade7 Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 Zoom needs to hurry up, folks losing patience and dropping them left and right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 My WiFi speeds (download) (all through WiFi, nothing hardwired)(all same distance from router): Desktop 160 Mbps iPhone X: 45 Mbps iPad (6th Gen): 9 Mbps Can anyone who understands tech better than me enlighten me and how do I fix my device speeds? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zCommander Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 19 minutes ago, Elessar78 said: My WiFi speeds (download) (all through WiFi, nothing hardwired)(all same distance from router): Desktop 160 Mbps iPhone X: 45 Mbps iPad (6th Gen): 9 Mbps Can anyone who understands tech better than me enlighten me and how do I fix my device speeds? Are you using the router that the Internet company gave you or you have your own better and faster WiFi router? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 48 minutes ago, zskins said: Are you using the router that the Internet company gave you or you have your own better and faster WiFi router? ISP provided router. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 I am looking to upgrade my 2011 MacBook pro that i do photo editing and i hope to stay inside the apple ecosystem. is it worth buying a 2020 MacBook pro or buy one of the models from last year that is cheap?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 33 minutes ago, skinfan2k said: I am looking to upgrade my 2011 MacBook pro that i do photo editing and i hope to stay inside the apple ecosystem. is it worth buying a 2020 MacBook pro or buy one of the models from last year that is cheap?? Probably don't need to upgrade to a 2020, you can upgrade to a recent model year. I have a 2009 Mac Mini and still use it from time to time. I have a 2017 iMac that I use it mostly. The 2009 can still do the lion's share of photo editing. Video editing and 3D modeling you'll probably need a newer machine. What you may run into is that older Macs may not be supported in the annual updates of Adobe Creative Cloud—for example, my 2009 is now stuck on Photoshop 2018—can't take an update anymore, because of OS compatiblity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purbeast Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 50 minutes ago, skinfan2k said: I am looking to upgrade my 2011 MacBook pro that i do photo editing and i hope to stay inside the apple ecosystem. is it worth buying a 2020 MacBook pro or buy one of the models from last year that is cheap?? I would get last years model or something even older. I'm a developer and in November 2015 I bought a mid-2014 model and I am still on it and it's still kicking ass. I have no reason to upgrade at all any time soon, and I'm guessing that I use a lot more power at once than you do having multiple servers up, multiple IDE's, developer tools, etc open at the same time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted April 23, 2020 Share Posted April 23, 2020 10 minutes ago, purbeast said: I would get last years model or something even older. I'm a developer and in November 2015 I bought a mid-2014 model and I am still on it and it's still kicking ass. I have no reason to upgrade at all any time soon, and I'm guessing that I use a lot more power at once than you do having multiple servers up, multiple IDE's, developer tools, etc open at the same time. My current computer is great but the only issue is lack of space and the fan running loud AF when i do anything anymore. i think i will keep this as a backup computer but i would like a computer that i can have for 8-9 more years so wifi 6 is important and trying to be at least on the front edge of technology that is coming out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
megared Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 23 hours ago, Elessar78 said: My WiFi speeds (download) (all through WiFi, nothing hardwired)(all same distance from router): Desktop 160 Mbps iPhone X: 45 Mbps iPad (6th Gen): 9 Mbps Can anyone who understands tech better than me enlighten me and how do I fix my device speeds? What's the distance? What's your ISP's advertised 'up-to' speed? Is the router dual band (2.4 and 5 gHz)? Were all devices on the same network at time of testing? How old is your ISP-provided router? (If ~2 years would recommend replacing/requesting new one) Easy steps you can take: reset router to factory default (chance improper router config is doing it). Forget the network on each device, reconnect and retest. (chance that network config has changed, but not picked up by device) More advanced: Disable extra functionalities of router (monitoring, security features, guest networks, etc that increase router computing overhead) Set devices to prefer 5 gHz network on router* (provided you have a 5 gHz network) Set priority to preferred devices on router (if available) Bottomline, most ISP routers have subpar routing capabilities to what's commercially available. If you have problems with wi-fi range, connectivity, or a large space to cover, many people save themselves the rental fee and spring on something better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zCommander Posted April 24, 2020 Share Posted April 24, 2020 23 hours ago, Elessar78 said: ISP provided router. Comcast or Verizon or something else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skinned Aussie Posted April 25, 2020 Share Posted April 25, 2020 Have just switched over to LibreOffice from OpenOffice. I found that OO was recovering my document way too often, but LO hasn't recovered once! I was using LO some time ago but switched to OO when I got a new (rent-try-buy) laptop and was 'forced' into W10. Can be easily downloaded at ninite.com. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renegade7 Posted May 1, 2020 Share Posted May 1, 2020 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tshile Posted May 2, 2020 Share Posted May 2, 2020 On 4/23/2020 at 4:58 PM, purbeast said: I would get last years model or something even older. I'm a developer and in November 2015 I bought a mid-2014 model and I am still on it and it's still kicking ass. I have no reason to upgrade at all any time soon, and I'm guessing that I use a lot more power at once than you do having multiple servers up, multiple IDE's, developer tools, etc open at the same time. my mid 2012 MacBook runs circles around my modern windows 10 laptop. And I have a nice laptop for work. I can’t talk about it at work because I’m surrounded by people that hate Macs and think people that like macs are stupid. Anyways, point was they hold up well over time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattsb84 Posted May 2, 2020 Share Posted May 2, 2020 11 minutes ago, tshile said: my mid 2012 MacBook runs circles around my modern windows 10 laptop. And I have a nice laptop for work. I can’t talk about it at work because I’m surrounded by people that hate Macs and think people that like macs are stupid. Anyways, point was they hold up well over time An odd comparison. Your home MAC most likely isnt running the same corporate software that the work PC is running. We have the same issue in our environment with users making that comparison, and they arent wrong, but it's not an apples to apples comparison. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tshile Posted May 2, 2020 Share Posted May 2, 2020 1 hour ago, mattsb84 said: Your home MAC most likely isnt running the same corporate software that the work PC is running I run my corporate IT. So. Yeah I think I’m comparing equal tasks for what I do on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 Had to go buy a Win laptop for school, with no notice. (My "textbook" for the entire program, which is really an online subscription, arrived today, four weeks after I bought it, and five days before class starts. And won't run on Chrome - PC or Mac only.) I haven't really worked on PC's for probably 10 years. Bring the thing home. Plug it in. (I'm already ticked. I made sure when I bought it that it had a USB-C connection. I have USB-C chargers on my bedroom desk, home office desk, and at work. Well, the HP has a USB-C connector, but will not charge from it. Have to use the proprietary HP charger. So I'm going to have to carry the laptop, and the charger, everywhere I go.) Go to install Chrome web browser. (At least my "textbook" allows that.) "That software cannot be installed in S Mode. Do you want to irrevocably disable S Mode?" What are the implications of this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PokerPacker Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 @Larry I don't know, but this sounds like my nightmare. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 I was shopping for a decent 13” Windows laptop. Ended up with a Surface laptop. These ****ers are just as expensive as MacBooks these days and frankly the quality isn’t as good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purbeast Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 First thing I would do with a Windows laptop is format it with a fresh copy and get rid of all the bull**** software that HP put on there. As for the USB-C thing, there is no such thing as a "proprietary USB-C" connector. USB-C is a standard. The port is either USB-C or it's not. I don't know about USB-C but I do know some of the micro USB cables would only pass the data and did not have a wire for power in the cables. I learned this when only some of my cables would charge my PS4 controllers. Perhaps USB-C does stuff like this too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renegade7 Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 First thing I do with a windows laptop is wipe it and install Linux. It's still frustrating as hell when something doesn't like a browser just because of the OS it's run on. Contour is like that, one of the reasons I finally cut the cord. If Office 365 could install with Wine I wouldn't of even made a Windows VM for college, they gave me basically lifetime and I have to use the web version or spin up the VM. If Microsoft is serious about putting Linux kernel in future versions of Windows, how much longer until office has a deb package? Is that what it will take for folks making sure their software works with something besides Windows and Mac? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 I think i will buy the new MacBook pro using the educational discount if i can. Thoughts?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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