twa Posted November 3, 2014 Share Posted November 3, 2014 Wouldn't you know it, the problem wasn't there this morning when I drove it to the garage. I hope they can reproduce the sound. when it gets low it will start to foam, especially with full turns ect they should have no problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forehead Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 OK, so first off, I'm not a mechanic. I am a Service Advisor, and I've been doing this for the last 7 years. Sorry for the size, I've been wanting to make that joke for years, and this is the only picture I could find that has the right caption. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrypticVillain Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 So glad this thread popped up. My car is smoking, and it's coming from a weird spot. The smoke is coming from behind that piece that's circled in red. The blue lines are where the smoke comes from when the hood is closed. I have NO idea what that piece is called. A dude from my church said it was a brake vacuum I think. It is right next to the brake fluid so I guess. I never heard of it before so I don't know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 brake booster white smoke usually means the brake master cylinder or sensor is leaking into the booster 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinsmarydu Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Sloshing sound, like fluid moving around, front end. Never heard it before, and a co-worker heard it too, so it's not just me. '99 Monte Carlo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrypticVillain Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 brake booster white smoke usually means the brake master cylinder or sensor is leaking into the booster One more thing TWA, it only happens when the car sits for an extended period of time. Like when it first starts warming up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 Sorry for the size, I've been wanting to make that joke for years, and this is the only picture I could find that has the right caption. Haha! Considering I started this thread in 2008, I've now been doing this for 13 years. Such a long time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 One more thing TWA, it only happens when the car sits for an extended period of time. Like when it first starts warming up. brake fluid leaking onto the exhaust probably, you can feel where the master cylinder bolts to the booster(underneath) to tell or around the sensor where the wire is on the master cylinder need to do something with it or smoke might be fire sometime......even if it is just hosing it off(and checking brake fluid level) Sloshing sound, like fluid moving around, front end. Never heard it before, and a co-worker heard it too, so it's not just me. '99 Monte Carlo. usually a pugged drain on the AC housing, but check your radiator coolant level as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinsmarydu Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 usually a pugged drain on the AC housing, but check your radiator coolant level as wellGotcha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 I was just reading an article that said that it's a no-no/not advisable to be on either end of a jump start (for a dead battery) in vehicles built after 2000, because of computers and electronics. The voltage spike from the jump start could cause a malfunction in the computer or electrical systems of either car. Is this true? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 (edited) I was just reading an article that said that it's a no-no/not advisable to be on either end of a jump start (for a dead battery) in vehicles built after 2000, because of computers and electronics. The voltage spike from the jump start could cause a malfunction in the computer or electrical systems of either car. Is this true? Anything is possible.We normally use booster packs (jumper packs) as opposed to another car's battery for jump starting. We do this regularly. We also have customers come in because they had to have jump starts regularly. No negative electrical issues as long as the jump start was performed correctly. Haven't seen any sort of issues, so I think that the author of the article was full of it. Also, there is no magical thing about the year 2000 and cars. In the US cars went to OBD2 in 1995-96 and have had the same system ever since. Granted, the computers are more complicated, but they are still speaking the same language. So, no. It isn't true. Edited December 8, 2014 by SpringfieldSkins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 (edited) Thanks. I didn't think so either, but I have a very small sample of people I have jump started (battery to battery) in the last 15 years. The article was in a home improvement magazine—I assume it was a puff piece to sell more jumper packs since that's what they were recommending instead. Edited December 8, 2014 by Elessar78 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 any electronic ignition car can be damaged, but as mentioned it is very rare if simply hooked up correctly a totally dead battery is best left to charge about 5 minutes to reduce surge issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinsmarydu Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 usually a pugged drain on the AC housing, but check your radiator coolant level as wellCorrect-a-mundo. It's in the shop right now getting fixed. The radiator was all gunked up, and as I just posted in the "ride" thread, original, so replacing it as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bliz Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 (edited) Question re my wife's car, a 2009 Hyundai Veracruz (basically a slightly larger santa fe). So, due to totally excusable circumstances that I won't describe in detail because it was my fault, the key got left in the ignition overnight one click forward so the electronics were on, which completely drained the battery. Completely to the point that all the presets on the radio got reset, and it took 15 minutes hooked up to my car last night to get enough juice to be able to jumpstart it. On jumpstarting, I noticed that the check engine light had come on. I drove it around for 20-30 minutes after jumpstarting, check engine light stayed on. I parked it in the garage overnight. Started right up this morning with no problem at all, but the check engine light is still on. It seems awfully coincidental that it would have come on suddenly right when I jumped it, but I think everything should have been reset when battery died so I don't know why an indicator light would have come on, and stayed on through this morning. I don't like driving around with a check engine light on (especially with 2 young kids and it being winter), but I don't want to pay someone $50 or $100 to run one of those diagnostic tests if I really don't need it. I'm pretty sure the battery is relatively new, that it was replaced maybe 4-6 months ago. Thoughts? Edited December 23, 2014 by Bliz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve09ru Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 You can take it by auto-zone and they'll check it for free. Also, a lot of cars have self diagnostic where it will display the code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosher Ham Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 I think pep boys and jiffy lube do a free diagnostic. Probably just needs to be reset. http://www.autozone.com/landing/page.jsp?name=top-five-reasons-check-engine-light And as steve09 pointed out, autozone does as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bliz Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 Free diagnostic? Well, that changes everything Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocket442Olds Posted December 23, 2014 Share Posted December 23, 2014 (edited) It is possible you've hurt some of the computers on board if you didn't put the cables on in the right order when jumping the car, but that is usually unlikely and would be more catastrophic than just a check engine light. Like steve09 and Kosher Ham pointed out, just take it somewhere and have them plug it in and tell you the code. A lot of these places now will charge you a fee to then "look up the code". Don't do it, just write it down and google it. (Pep Boys I know does this, its likely others do too) Edited December 23, 2014 by Rocket442Olds 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylor703 Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Odds are the CEL just needs to be reset. Take it to the dealer. Do not take your car to Pep Boys or Auto Zone. Do it right the first time and save yourself some dough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chump Bailey Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 In favor of cleaning the mass air flow sensor? I've heard mixed answers... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted December 24, 2014 Author Share Posted December 24, 2014 Free diagnostic? Well, that changes everything Thanks guys There's no such thing as free. They will scan the code and tell you what code is stored. They may even tell you a likely cause of the code. Then they will sell you some parts to try and install yourself and hours later, you've installed some cheap, low quality parts that didn't fix the problem because no one ever ran a proper diagnostic. All it cost was what you paid for the part and the time and sweat spent replacing a part that didn't need to be replaced. That's your free diagnostic at Pep Boys, Auto Zone or whatever. As for the problem posted. I would reset the light and see if it comes back. It's very possible a low voltage situation caused the light. If it comes back, have someone run a proper diagnostic, not some minimum wage parts seller with a $30 code reader. In favor of cleaning the mass air flow sensor? I've heard mixed answers... It's cheap, so worth a try. If you don't have a problem and the fuel trim numbers are not out more then 10% then you probably won't see any benefit either way. If there is a MAF code then it usually needs to be replaced. Cleaning it is worth a shot due to the cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Do Itch Big Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 Car will not start. The headlights turn on fine, when I turn the key it doesn't even click. Is it my starter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted December 29, 2014 Author Share Posted December 29, 2014 Car will not start. The headlights turn on fine, when I turn the key it doesn't even click. Is it my starter? Very likely. If you can locate the starter, hit that sonofa**** with a hammer or something else hard. A lot of times that will knock it loose in order to get it to start. Or try jump starting the batter as well just in case. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 i might ask this already but my tank on my last two fills has been getting about 275 miles. Normally i usually get about 350 on a tank. No light turns on when i turn my car on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now