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The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread


Springfield

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On a 2002 Saturn SL1, the engine light went on, and using a DIY handheld diagnostic tool, it refers to the o2 Sensor and a slow response bank.

It seems like this happens to every car I own.

But I was curious if someone can tell me if it's easy to replace on this particular make and model.

And whether it's something that should be a high priority and urgent replacement, if the car is about to go on a long trip.

 

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  • 1 month later...

I have a 2015 Nissan Pathfinder with 80k miles with a check engine light that came on last week. I took it to one of my regular mechanics and he say the codes indicate a 'bad crank sensor'. He changed that but it didn't fix the problem. Long story short he said "Take it to the dealer". Ugh.

Upon further internet investigation I find this:

 

"A Settlement has been reached in a class action lawsuit against Nissan North America, Inc. (“NNA”), regarding the Continuously Variable Transmissions (“CVTs”) in 2014-2018 model year Nissan Rogue, 2015-2018 model year Nissan Pathfinder and 2015-2018 model year Infiniti QX60 vehicles (“Class Vehicles”). NNA denies it engaged in any wrongdoing. The Court did not rule in favor of either party.

On October 13, 2021 the Court entered a written order granting preliminary approval of the Settlement. The order is posted here. The Settlement is subject to final approval by the Court and, if appeals are filed, all such appeals are either dismissed or resolved in favor of approval of the Settlement."

 

Is a "bad crank sensor" related to a transmission issue? 

 

http://www.roguepathfinderqx60cvtsettlement.com/

 

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  • 3 months later...

I have a 2015 Toyota Corolla.  I was re-ended this evening.  My little red door open warning light is on.

 

I'm assuming the issue is the trunk because all of the cars are closed and seem to be fine.  The trunk is pretty banged up and the whole back end has been pushed in and up.  I haven't tried to open and close the trunk.

 

Anybody know how big a deal it is to leave that light on over night?  That doesn't seem like it should drain a battery.

 

What I see when I look at my fuses it doesn't match up with the figures online.  I pulled a couple of fuses tonight based on what I can find online, but none of them caused the light to go off.  But does anybody have a good idea of how to turn that light off or stop the dinging when when the car is driving?  (Not asking anybody to look online at fuses but didn't know if somebody would be able to just say, yeah this is how you do it.)

 

Lastly, anybody know what they are doing with totaling cars now?  Are they taking into account the real prices of cars right now.

 

And then if it is fixed, is it going to take forever to get parts to fix it?  And are the parts extra expensive now too?  And does that affect the decision to total it?

 

Thanks for any input!

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On 5/20/2022 at 6:58 AM, PeterMP said:

Well, if anybody else is ever in the same situation my battery has lasted at least over night.  Car started this morning w/ no problems.

 

You could try to open and hopefully close but don't think that is going to fix it if the trigger switch never gets pressed to shut off the light and the dinging.

 

My van had and issue where the automatic doors wouldn't work and I even took out the fuse for it but somewhere it was still pulling the current and my battery would drain after about 2 or 3 days. Never could figure out so I just ended up leaving the negative wire lose a little so I can just pull it up and away after I got home. Did this for months on end. Then the Odyssey had power issues and decided to ditch it (also had no heat on left side issue too, winters were brutal to me). The guy I knew who owned a garage bought it from me for $800. Couple of months later I ran into him and asked him so how the rebuild project was going and he just shook his head and said too many issues with your van. The biggest was to fix the doors so it would stop draining the battery...lol 

 

For your situation I would pull out the light and see if there is way to disconnect the wires to the button that presses in when the trunk is closed. That should stop the battery from draining, hopefully. 

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  • 1 month later...

OK.  

 

Got a 2019 Ford Focus.  1.5L Turbo, if it makes a difference.  

 

A rodent has chewed one of the coolant hoses.  I've got a leak.  

 

The hose is tiny.  It runs from the rear ("Rear" means "towards the back of the car") of the engine somewhere, to the coolant reservoir tank.  

 

Any idea how I can find a part number for the hose?  

 

I could see myself replacing it myself.  At least the end that connects to the coolant tank is really easy to get to.  (The other end - might not be.)  

 

I'm not allergic to buying a Chilton or some such.  But at least the ones I've owned, didn't list parts like that.  And I've got no clue what to call the stupid thing.  

 

As you're standing in front of the car, facing the coolant tank, there's three hoses attached to the tank.  A relatively large hose, on the bottom of the tank (for sucking water from the tank).  And two tiny hoses, near the top.  The hose I want is the top right.  (Closer to the car's midline.)  

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2 hours ago, Larry said:

OK.  

 

Got a 2019 Ford Focus.  1.5L Turbo, if it makes a difference.  

 

A rodent has chewed one of the coolant hoses.  I've got a leak.  

 

The hose is tiny.  It runs from the rear ("Rear" means "towards the back of the car") of the engine somewhere, to the coolant reservoir tank.  

 

Any idea how I can find a part number for the hose?  

 

I could see myself replacing it myself.  At least the end that connects to the coolant tank is really easy to get to.  (The other end - might not be.)  

 

I'm not allergic to buying a Chilton or some such.  But at least the ones I've owned, didn't list parts like that.  And I've got no clue what to call the stupid thing.  

 

As you're standing in front of the car, facing the coolant tank, there's three hoses attached to the tank.  A relatively large hose, on the bottom of the tank (for sucking water from the tank).  And two tiny hoses, near the top.  The hose I want is the top right.  (Closer to the car's midline.)  

 

Sounds like it is the hose that goes to your car heater if it is less fatter than top main radiator hose. 

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1 hour ago, Larry said:

It's vastly smaller than the heater hose. 
 

I actually think I found it on Google. Looks like EG9Z-8063-B. (Amazed I found it). 

 

Yes they are but the part number you posted is just the overflow tube/hose. Correct?

 

So not heater hoses then wich are a tad bit bigger but smaller the the main radiators hoses.

 

Edited by zCommander
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Ok. A follow up. (And might not be mechanic-related.)

 

I replaced the hose. 
 

Lasted like 2 weeks. Rodent chewed the new one. And what I'm pretty sure is the PCV hose. 
 

Obviously I need to replace the hoses. 
 

But, how do I stop rodents from climbing up in my engine compartment and chewing on things?  
 

(I'm assuming a squirrel, since we have squirrels. But we have mice and rats and no doubt other rodent-type critters, too.)

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2 hours ago, Larry said:

Ok. A follow up. (And might not be mechanic-related.)

 

I replaced the hose. 
 

Lasted like 2 weeks. Rodent chewed the new one. And what I'm pretty sure is the PCV hose. 
 

Obviously I need to replace the hoses. 
 

But, how do I stop rodents from climbing up in my engine compartment and chewing on things?  
 

(I'm assuming a squirrel, since we have squirrels. But we have mice and rats and no doubt other rodent-type critters, too.)

 

Keep an open can of mothballs under your car. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

My bulletproof 2003 Honda Accord, 4 cylinder that is 270k miles old has developed an overheating problem. I had a problem in a drive thru line yesterday and my daughter's pick up line at school.  It is low on coolant (it's at or below the min line) and I am not even sure I have ever drained, changed or flushed the coolant.

 

I could have masked this issue for years because I only drove it 15 to 20 minutes to work.  I have to do more highway and stop and go driving as of two weeks ago.  I babied the car home... when we drove it from the drive thru getting back up to speed cooled it off. 

 

It's also due for an oil change.  I have been bad at neglecting oil changes until it throws me a low pil pressure notice and I add 1 QT of oil and change the oil within a week. It's so ridiculous that I treat that as the maintenance reminder.

 

Condensor fan also doesn't appear to be working.  

 

Looks like I know what I will be doing this weekend.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Re: Previous post Update

Replaced the cooling fan motor.  Could have replacrd the whole assembly and had that one go easier.

 

Went another 2.5 months and finally did oil change today.  Car was throwing some codes that one would expect from low oil. 

 

I am amazed at how this engine is built.  

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  • 1 year later...

I need to get a new key fob for my 2015 Pathfinder. I'm seeing different options but have no idea what actually works:

 

1. Buy one online & then reprogram it yourself (see video below) - does this actually work?

2. Dorman sells a replacement that includes "a DIY-friendly programming module for simple replacement", BUT nobody has it in stock & they don't sell it online.

3. Battery Plus sells the fob & will program it for $200. 

4. Buy one online & then get a locksmith to program it 

5. Get it from the dealer. 

 

I'm assuming for option 1-3 I would still need a locksmith to make the emergency key inside the fob. 

 

Ideas?

 

 

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9 minutes ago, EmirOfShmo said:

I need to get a new key fob for my 2015 Pathfinder. I'm seeing different options but have no idea what actually works:

 

1. Buy one online & then reprogram it yourself (see video below) - does this actually work?

 

 

The comments, in that video, from people who have tried it have said it works. If Amazon sells it, then you will have 30 days to return it and won't cost you anything to ship it back if select the defective option. ;) Can't go wrong there.  

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1 hour ago, EmirOfShmo said:

I need to get a new key fob for my 2015 Pathfinder. 

 

I suspect this is of one of those you get what you pay for type of items. I personally wouldn't trust an auto locksmith or a DIY YouTube video. But I'm also a car idiot. 😆

 

Assuming Nissan quoted you more than $200?

 

Also is the fob you have damaged beyond repair? 

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3 hours ago, The Evil Genius said:

 

I suspect this is of one of those you get what you pay for type of items. I personally wouldn't trust an auto locksmith or a DIY YouTube video. But I'm also a car idiot. 😆

 

Assuming Nissan quoted you more than $200?

 

Also is the fob you have damaged beyond repair? 

Haven't contacted the dealer but I read where it's $350+ for fob & programming.

No, not damaged beyond repair. But the part that connects to the keychain fell off. I only got one fob when I bought the car so I'd like to have a spare. 

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