landrydirty30skins Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 more ethanol in fuel during winter months, everyone's MPG drops noticeably. my Cruze gets 475 per tank and now im down to 400-420. it happens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted December 29, 2014 Author Share Posted December 29, 2014 i might ask this already but my tank on my last two fills has been getting about 275 miles. Normally i usually get about 350 on a tank. No light turns on when i turn my car on Check your tire pressure. No, seriously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Check your tire pressure. No, seriously. Â I just had my tires rotated and they filled them with nitrogen. Â Maybe i will notice the increase on my next fill-up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 I just had my tires rotated and they filled them with nitrogen. Maybe i will notice the increase on my next fill-up Nitrogen is good stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malapropismic Depository Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 If you can locate the starter, hit that sonofa**** with a hammer or something else hard. A lot of times that will knock it loose in order to get it to start. Â I assume that this is a very temporary solution, just until you can get to the nearest shop - is that correct ? Sort of like driving on a spare tire ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 I assume that this is a very temporary solution, just until you can get to the nearest shop - is that correct ? Sort of like driving on a spare tire ? Yeah. If that works, it's very possible that it won't start the next time you turn the key. Basically, start it and get it into a shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve09ru Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 So got a question (obviously ):  How important is it to do a 60k mile tune-up/check-up? What all is typically done and is it more so just a money grab for the dealer? Dealer it quoting like 500 which seems like just a money grabber to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaGoonie55 Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Change your plugs, wires, rotor/cap, some sensors depending on model, filters and test your battery / alternator.  $250 ish (high end) depending on model plus satisfaction that you did it yourself. A lot of parts stores will test your battery/alt for free.  Very important to do this @ prescribed mileage to maintain warranty and prolong the life of the vehicle.  Once something goes wrong, it usually landslides (in my experience).  I'm not a master mechanic, but that's my .02. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 So got a question (obviously ): How important is it to do a 60k mile tune-up/check-up? What all is typically done and is it more so just a money grab for the dealer? Dealer it quoting like 500 which seems like just a money grabber to me. If you plan on keeping the vehicle then the factory recommended services are the best way to keep the vehicle in working order. They should be outlined in the owners manual. I only say that because I have noticed dealers who make up their own services (which are different than the ones recommended by the car maker). If you don't do it will your car blow up? No. It probably won't last as long without major repairs though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dont Taze Me Bro Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 What type car are you driving?  $500 sounds high to me.  I drive a Toyota Sequoia, I know they do everything goonie mentioned, they also checked all the fluids, offer to flush them out, top them off, etc. rotate tires, check alignment, air pressure.   Like Spring said, you car probably won't blow up (unless you put those 60K miles on in a year ), but not keeping up with maintenance (oil changes, per mileage services, etc.) will most likely lead to more costly repairs sooner than later.   Or it may not, it's a chess game sometimes.  I've done everything with/for my 2008 Sequoia.  The car lock/unlock mechanism in the drivers side went out, got it replaced under warranty about 3 weeks prior to the warranty being up.  Two weeks after the warranty had expired, the passenger side went out.  So it won't unlock with the key fob.  And the only key entry is the drivers side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve09ru Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Thanks guys- the wife had called and checked on what the price and stuff was so I'm guessing it includes all the above mentioned. I had browsed online through Hyundai site ('11 elantra) and it only mentioned 'inspect' outside of oil change and such. So with that I was kind of wondering what they quoted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malapropismic Depository Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 (edited) On the subject of bodywork. I have an older model car, so it has a metal bumper, and having a rust issue. I tried to fix it while it was still superficial, and had not yet eaten through or created a hole. I sanded out all visible rust, and added a couple layers of primer and paint. Â But it's come back with a vengeance. It's now become a sizable hole about 4 inches (or more)wide and spreading like cancer. Is there anything I can do, that would be somewhat inexpensive, simple, and as a do-it-yourself, that will at least stop it from spreading further ? What is recommended for a case like this, without spending hundreds or over a thousand at a body shop ? Â I know one option is to get a used bumper from an auto salvage. But I guess I'm wondering if there's such a thing as a chemical or compound that is most effective at stopping the spread of rust, or somehow ridding it completely. Seems just like cancer, in that, if just a single leftover cell is left behind, it grows right back. Â Edited March 2, 2015 by Malapropismic Depository Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 a rust converter(like primer,but made for rust), ya can usually get at a oriellys ect  ya need to coat the backside ,from the looks of it the rust is coming from the back  https://www.google.com/shopping/product/10571786804831582446?q=a+rust+converter&client=opera&hs=q0b&channel=suggest&prmd=ivns&prds=paur:ClkAsKraX3cHzwIcCvmAHfJTyL78nzzY7zSFPbTirzVOLNg33cQ9e0yl_L6M7a0RszbaBEVlJHuimAeKAmw9uguWAPtrB6CKefC2r6dwjkCxOvMcRlUx56EgLRIZAFPVH71fQ947IJWQ5Eofiq9FJTShbXjfEQ&sa=X&ei=xvb0VPDOI-SxsASwy4LIAw&ved=0CF0Q8wIwEQ  http://www.tcpglobal.com/TAL3509.html  not sure which brands your area carries Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Any recommendations on battery brand? I seem to recall reading somewhere that most car batteries on the market are now made my a handful of suppliers and all they do is change the label? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Any recommendations on battery brand? I seem to recall reading somewhere that most car batteries on the market are now made my a handful of suppliers and all they do is change the label? Â just go to costco. Â Sears is a good place too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 (edited) Any recommendations on battery brand? I seem to recall reading somewhere that most car batteries on the market are now made my a handful of suppliers and all they do is change the label?Johnson Control and East Penn Dekka.I've actually visited the East Penn Dekka battery plant in Pennsylvania. Amazing place, the battery factory. Toured it when a wholesaler was trying to get my shop to switch brands. The factory was very cool, like a living episode of "How It's Made". Didn't seitch battery brands though. My shop stocks Interstate batteries. That's what is put in my own vehicle. In general, you get what you pay for with batteries. Tires as well. Edited March 3, 2015 by SpringfieldSkins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 I just looked up an interstate battery in the size I'm looking for. I'm in a cold-weather state does CCA after a certain point matter? I needed one so I got one yesterday before I saw your post. I think my vehicle recommends a min of 540 CCA and the battery I got is 690. The interstate is rated at 550. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 I just looked up an interstate battery in the size I'm looking for. I'm in a cold-weather state does CCA after a certain point matter? I needed one so I got one yesterday before I saw your post. I think my vehicle recommends a min of 540 CCA and the battery I got is 690. The interstate is rated at 550. I'm sure you'll be fine. Anything that is above the factory installed CCA should work. Cold weather rated or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrypticVillain Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 So glad this thread popped up. My car is smoking, and it's coming from a weird spot.  The smoke is coming from behind that piece that's circled in red.  The blue lines are where the smoke comes from when the hood is closed. I have NO idea what that piece is called.  A dude from my church said it was a brake vacuum I think. It is right next to the brake fluid so I guess. I never heard of it before so I don't know.   brake fluid leaking onto the exhaust probably, you can feel where the master cylinder bolts to the booster(underneath) to tell or around the sensor where the wire is on the master cylinder  need to do something with it or smoke might be fire sometime......even if it is just hosing it off(and checking brake fluid level)  Figured I'll update y'all with this. It was two things wrong. First problem was a busted thermostat housing. The second thing, and easily more expensive... Freaking Intake Manifold was cracked man. As all good now. The Vic is riding like a champ again. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malapropismic Depository Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 a rust converter(like primer,but made for rust), ya can usually get at a oriellys ect  ya need to coat the backside ,from the looks of it the rust is coming from the back  https://www.google.com/shopping/product/10571786804831582446?q=a+rust+converter&client=opera&hs=q0b&channel=suggest&prmd=ivns&prds=paur:ClkAsKraX3cHzwIcCvmAHfJTyL78nzzY7zSFPbTirzVOLNg33cQ9e0yl_L6M7a0RszbaBEVlJHuimAeKAmw9uguWAPtrB6CKefC2r6dwjkCxOvMcRlUx56EgLRIZAFPVH71fQ947IJWQ5Eofiq9FJTShbXjfEQ&sa=X&ei=xvb0VPDOI-SxsASwy4LIAw&ved=0CF0Q8wIwEQ  http://www.tcpglobal.com/TAL3509.html  not sure which brands your area carries  Cool, thanks man !! I'll be on the hunt for it ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fergasun Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 Any advice on tracing electrical shorts in 2003 Honda Accord? I keep blowing the same fuse when I shift into reverse... No 21 "IG Meter". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share Posted March 5, 2015 (edited) Any advice on tracing electrical shorts in 2003 Honda Accord? I keep blowing the same fuse when I shift into reverse... No 21 "IG Meter".4 cylinder or V6?Is this the under hood fuse box or the dash fuse box? Found it. The circuit protects the following... RF power window switch, gauge control module, MICU, hazard warning switch, LF power window switch, relay control module, shift lock solenoid, wiper/washer switch. My bet would be the shift control module is shorted blowing the fuse since you said it happens when you ****. MICU are common failures on those cars as well. Hope it helps! Edited March 5, 2015 by SpringfieldSkins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 what exactly is carbon build-up? My car model is notorious for that and it is under warranty but what are the symptoms? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share Posted March 5, 2015 what exactly is carbon build-up? My car model is notorious for that and it is under warranty but what are the symptoms? Carbon occurs naturally as a byproduct of combustion. It builds up over time and can clog passages in the intake, EGR, exhaust and other areas. There are usually no symptoms until something breaks. The ECU can adjust for the carbon build up until a point and then something breaks. Ideally, you'll have a shop perform and induction service periodically to clean the build up of carbon. No this is something that is never recommended by any manufacturer. It should be done and is the closest to a "tune up" that you can do to your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fergasun Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 SpringfieldSkins, 4 cylinder - many years ago I installed an aftermarket Aux jack and that could be the culprit. I will be opening up that area again to inspect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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