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The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread


Springfield

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In my 07 RAV4 (125K miles) I get a loud TUNK kind of sound in certain circumstances.  Kind of like the sound of a piece of heavy plastic or metal suddenly popping back into place.  (I'm not saying for sure that's what's happening, but that's what the sound reminds me of.)  It sounds like it's coming from the vicinity of the wheels, although sometimes it sounds more forward, and sometimes more aft.

 

Anyway, it happens when turning left while accelerating from a low speed, or when going over speed bumps.  It does not sound like any part of the car is scraping the ground.  I never hear it when I'm cruising at, say 25mph or more, even if I turn or accelerate.

Any ideas?

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In my 07 RAV4 (125K miles) I get a loud TUNK kind of sound in certain circumstances.  Kind of like the sound of a piece of heavy plastic or metal suddenly popping back into place.  (I'm not saying for sure that's what's happening, but that's what the sound reminds me of.)  It sounds like it's coming from the vicinity of the wheels, although sometimes it sounds more forward, and sometimes more aft.

 

Anyway, it happens when turning left while accelerating from a low speed, or when going over speed bumps.  It does not sound like any part of the car is scraping the ground.  I never hear it when I'm cruising at, say 25mph or more, even if I turn or accelerate.

Any ideas?

 

sounds like a bushing on the suspension,probably on the swaybar

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I have a fog question. dont know if it's car issue or a legal issue tho.

Why do fog lights turn off when you switch from low beams to high beams. I've looked this up before and the only answer i've seen basically suggested that your focus would be on area lit by the fog lights instead further ahead where the high beams are shining. Which is pretty much the stupidest thing i ever heard because if that were the case theyd have to ban driving during the day when everything is lit

The reason i ask is i've rewired the fog lights on my car to come on with the parking lights and not the headlights. So they no longer turn off when i turn on my highbeams.

So you're "that guy".

Hope a cop writes your ass a ticket.

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So what should be done about it?  Is it unsafe?  Will it degrade over time?  How expensive should it be to fix?

replacing worn ones is what you do

unsafe depends on how ya define it ,if it is the swaybar bushing or link it is not critical but does affect stability 

 

if it is a control arm bushing that is a bit more serious

 

just have it checked and find out, it will get worse....thunks always do

you can check the sway bar yourself

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Whats the problem with it exactly. I did it so I could drive with fogs only if I wanted. Some cars come that way. Mine didn't

No cars come that way by default. I don't know the reason why but I know that it's illegal in Virginia and it means that exactly 0 cars come like that from the factory.

Virginia doesn't make anything illegal that comes from the factory a specific way, hence the insanely dark tint on the back windows of SUV's.

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Whats the problem with it exactly. I did it so I could drive with fogs only if I wanted. Some cars come that way. Mine didn't

I wasn't serious about the ticket part. However, not going to lie, I think it's a bit douchey. Like SS stated, cars don't come from the factory that way. I have no reason why, but I'm sure there is a reasonable one. I know one thing I can't stand, though, is when I approach a car at night you can't easily tell if they flipped off their brights or not. If its a newer car, when they dim their lights you can tell they are on low beams, because you can see their fogs.

On a somewhat related note: what is with d-bags that drive around with their brights on, to hide a low beam being out? How about FIXING the low beam that is out, idiots! That **** drives me nuts.

And if they are trying to not get a ticket. You won't. A cop may pull you over, but generally they will do so to see if you are drunk. They will just tell you to get it replaced. Besides, if you don't dim your lights when you approach a cop, they may pull you over, anyway.

Edited by Bubble Screen
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I have a 2009 Chevy Impala LT that has 2 minor problems, more nerve racking then anything but figured maybe someone could offer some input. When I turn my AC off in my car I get a knocking sound coming from behind my glovebox, and the sound goes on for a good minute at least before stopping. Also I have automatic locks and when I lock my doors all of the locks don't always lock, usually it's one of the ones on the drivers side not doing it but sometimes it happens on the passengers side as well

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No cars come that way by default. I don't know the reason why but I know that it's illegal in Virginia and it means that exactly 0 cars come like that from the factory.

Virginia doesn't make anything illegal that comes from the factory a specific way, hence the insanely dark tint on the back windows of SUV's.

What I meant by cars coming that way is that some cars when u turn on the parking lights the fog lights come. Which is what I was going for. the fact that they don't go out with the brights is an unintended side effect.

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I have a 2009 Chevy Impala LT that has 2 minor problems, more nerve racking then anything but figured maybe someone could offer some input. When I turn my AC off in my car I get a knocking sound coming from behind my glovebox, and the sound goes on for a good minute at least before stopping. Also I have automatic locks and when I lock my doors all of the locks don't always lock, usually it's one of the ones on the drivers side not doing it but sometimes it happens on the passengers side as well

does it do it when you turn off the heater as well?....if so it is probably something something in the fan or the fan itself

if not a accuator on the blend door probably stripped a gear, you can usually drop the glove box and feel where the noise is

 

the door locks you can try spraying with wd-40 ect then working them repeatedly,the accuator or linkage is binding/stiff

other than that it is replacing them

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I'm stationed in Hawaii so I'll have to test out the heater method. Are those parts typically expensive to replace? My car is under a warranty still so I think first and foremost I'll go to the dealership and see if it's covered

not real high, but under warranty is always good  :)

the door locks can add up and get pricey 

 

the more I think about it the blend accuator is probably the noise

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Is there a big difference between brands of OEM parts? I'm replacing a lower control arm and an inner tie rod (probably all of them while I'm down there) and I was just curious if there was that big of difference between say Moog, and Duralast or Dormanor whatever over the counter stuff Autozone and the like sells. I've never had experience with Moog products but people swear by them and I'm actually able to find them cheaper online than the Autozone/Napa/OReiliy brands would cost me. The only downside is i'd be without a car for a little bit longer while I'm waiting for them to ship. 

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Is there a big difference between brands of OEM parts? I'm replacing a lower control arm and an inner tie rod (probably all of them while I'm down there) and I was just curious if there was that big of difference between say Moog, and Duralast or Dormanor whatever over the counter stuff Autozone and the like sells. I've never had experience with Moog products but people swear by them and I'm actually able to find them cheaper online than the Autozone/Napa/OReiliy brands would cost me. The only downside is i'd be without a car for a little bit longer while I'm waiting for them to ship.

You typically get what you pay for. Not only in parts that don't last, but ones that don't fit right and thus are harder to install.

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You typically get what you pay for. Not only in parts that don't last, but ones that don't fit right and thus are harder to install.

 

Yep....but I am a Moog fan, certainly over store brands

 

hard to believe they are cheaper

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Yep....but I am a Moog fan, certainly over store brands

 

hard to believe they are cheaper

 

I can only speak for my specific application, but Rock Auto online has a moog LCA for around $80. From shopping online on Autozone, etc, they all seem to be at least $40-$50 more expensive. All that said, I think I'm just gonna go with Moogs and likely never worry about them again. I could get 2 day shipping and probably still come out cheaper than buying Duralast brand from Autozone. 

Edited by big#44
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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

Wheels/rims question

 

Looking to buy a set of rims so I don't have to keep swapping my tires. OEM for my Honda Odyssey is 16x7", 5x120 bolt pattern. I saw a set on craigslist  that was pulled off a CR-V but it is 16x6.6", 5x114.3 bolt pattern will these be compatible?

Edited by Elessar78
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Wheels/rims question

Looking to buy a set of rims so I don't have to keep swapping my tires. OEM for my Honda Odyssey is 16x7", 5x120 bolt pattern. I saw a set on craigslist that was pulled off a CR-V but it is 16x6.6", 5x114.3 bolt pattern will these be compatible?

Why do you want an extra set of wheels? Is it a winter tire, summer tire thing?

The second wheel isn't as wide as the first and by those dimensions the bolt pattern doesn't match.

Edited by SpringfieldSkins
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Ok, so with my and my wife's work schedule I can't make it to the mechanic until the end of next week, so I'm hoping this is something that can wait for another couple of weeks to fix. Here it is:

 

The other day I was driving home from work, and I noticed my car started to make a low groaning sound and a slight vibration in the steering wheel when I turned the wheel. But only when I turn it to the right, and only between about 15-45 degrees. I'm hoping it's just one of the tie rods and it can last another couple of weeks. Anybody know if I'm going to be alright, or am I about to die in the next week?

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Yeah, winter/summer tire thing. The garage that swapped 'em did a rough job and my rims are gouged in areas. Thanks. 

 

I'd asked other people, but they weren't sure. I guess there's some "play" in wheel widths? It's all Greek to me.

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Ok, so with my and my wife's work schedule I can't make it to the mechanic until the end of next week, so I'm hoping this is something that can wait for another couple of weeks to fix. Here it is:

 

The other day I was driving home from work, and I noticed my car started to make a low groaning sound and a slight vibration in the steering wheel when I turned the wheel. But only when I turn it to the right, and only between about 15-45 degrees. I'm hoping it's just one of the tie rods and it can last another couple of weeks. Anybody know if I'm going to be alright, or am I about to die in the next week?

What kind of van is it? Year make model?

Depending on the noise it could be power steering or suspension. I'd check the power steering fluid as a precaution. Could be suspension (tie rods, etc) in which case it should be OK until she has time to take it in as long as the noise doesn't get worse.

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Yeah, winter/summer tire thing. The garage that swapped 'em did a rough job and my rims are gouged in areas. Thanks. 

 

I'd asked other people, but they weren't sure. I guess there's some "play" in wheel widths? It's all Greek to me.

The 16x6.6 (which I assume is really 16x6.5 because 6.6 isn't divisible by 5 and not really a normal size) means that the wheel is 16 inches in diameter and 6.5 inches wide. So sitting flat, it's 16 inches wide and sitting upright (rolling), it's 6.5 inches wide.

The 5x114.3 (which I assume is actually 115 by the same logic as above) is the bolt pattern. It's how the wheel mounts to the hub. If the bolt pattern isn't right then the lug studs won't fit through the holes in the wheel. The 5 means that there are 5 lug holes in the wheel. The 115 is the diameter of the lug holes in millimeters (if you were to draw a circle so that all the holes intersected the circle).

Hope that helps. Your problem isn't really the 16x6.5 it's the 5x115.

If I were you, I would look for plain steel wheels in a size of 16x7 and a bolt pattern of 5x120 like the factory size. Steel wheel are cheap and can be bent back in if you hit a pothole or curb.

Another question. Where do you live that you want to put snow tires on a minivan anyhow?

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Year make model?

Sorry,

'99 Chevy Monte Carlo. Last time I had something like this was my old car, which was a Ford Taurus, so I know it'll be a different feel/sound for each car. I'm just hoping it's a tie rod, and not something I'm not familiar with. But I'll check the PS fluid tonight and see if that's it.

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