Springfield Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 Mechanic says i have a small tear in a cv boot. They estimated 2.6 hours to do the work. My side guy says that they usually don't just replace the boot, but put in a new axle shaft with boot already on. Which is right? If the side guy is right, what would i need? I am searching rockauto.com, i se axle shaft, axle shaft bearing, axle shaft seal and cv half shaft assembly. My stance on CV boots has changed over the years. It used to be that I would suggest boot replacement if the leak appeared relatively new or it didn't appear that any debris got into the CV joint. If it was bad or the joint had been exposed then I'd suggest replacing the axle. My thinking changed, to primarily suggesting axle replacement. Reason being is that the axle was easier to replace and the labor would be less. Aftermarket axles are generally inexpensive (compared to OEM axles which are very expensive), so the repair wouldn't be that much more than a boot replacement. Somewhere along the lines, the aftermarket decided it was going to royally **** up axle manufacturing. Chinese garbage and even American made stuff that wasn't any good. We started seeing a huge amount of defects in all aftermarket axle brands. Incorrect fit, axles causing vibrations at idle, axles causing vibrations when accelerating, axles that made noise. For that reason I will no longer consider installing aftermarket axles on my customer's vehicles. My current stance on CV boots is to replace the boot unless there appears to be major damage to the CV joint. If the axle has to be replaced then I will only install an OEM axle. No aftermarket axles. Ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 That's an easy way. Or any time you bring it in for service, just ask them to check your brakes. If they aren't idiots (and potentially want to sell you brakes if they are worn out) then they'll do it for free. If you don't trust them, ask them for measurements on the pads. Less than 2/32nds of an inch (or whatever that equates to in mm) won't pass a VA safety inspection so that's when I consider them unsafe. If they are close, it wouldn't hurt to do them at the same time. Of course, they could just lie to you about the measurements if they weren't on the up and up... which is just one of the many reasons why it's important to find a shop you trust. Does the play of asking for the parts back (the ones they took off) actually work in this scenario? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 Does the play of asking for the parts back (the ones they took off) actually work in this scenario? It doesn't ever hurt to ask for the parts back. Make sure you ask before the service is completed though as many technicians will just throw the old parts away. Digging through the trash for old parts is the worst! Of course, you may not even know what you're looking at when you get the parts back, but at least it gives you peace of mind. That is, unless they give you back a different set of brake pads back, that were worn out but not for your car... and your car never really needed brakes in the first place... Also, some parts have cores that must be returned to the supplier (or pay a "core charge") but that's usually with parts other than brakes, parts that must be remanufactured. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Car just did the same thing it was doing before I spent $800 on repairs. Shut off after 8 miles of driving. I was luckily able to roll to a side street and let it sit for a bit before restarting and driving another block to my destination. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dont Taze Me Bro Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Car just did the same thing it was doing before I spent $800 on repairs. Shut off after 8 miles of driving. I was luckily able to roll to a side street and let it sit for a bit before restarting and driving another block to my destination. Ugh, that sucks man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 Ugh, that sucks man Sure does, and I gotta drive back home from work tonight. Taking her in tomorrow. I've changed her name from "Elsie" to "The Trap". 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted April 17, 2016 Author Share Posted April 17, 2016 Car just did the same thing it was doing before I spent $800 on repairs. Shut off after 8 miles of driving. I was luckily able to roll to a side street and let it sit for a bit before restarting and driving another block to my destination. I'm telling you man, this reeks of GM ignition module to me. No way I can prove it, and it is obviously difficult for anyone to diagnose it, but that's just what it seems like. The difficulty is that the symptom will need to be diagnosed when it stalls and then can't restart. When it's difficult to replicate it in a closed scenario it becomes harder. When it stalls and then won't start, the technician will need to check for spark and fuel (or timing). Doing that on the side of the road isn't exactly easy. Best of luck stroker. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 i think i might invest in a Tesla 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 i think i might invest in a Tesla 3 rich folk problems 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 Best of luck stroker. Thanks broskie. I can't take it to that place until tuesday. Closed today, and tomorrow I work during their hours of operation. So what I've been doing is driving it halfway to/from work and pulling in to a parking lot to let it rest for half an hour before completing the trip. It's worked so far. My former brother in law back in MD has been a mechanic for almost 30 years, and I told him the story. He says ignition module, fuel pump or fuel pump relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 so i am getting my car rear brake pads replaced and rotors surfaced, they didn't recommend that i need to do the front ones. It came out to be $265 for the rear on the lexus? i think thats fair right??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 so i am getting my car rear brake pads replaced and rotors surfaced, they didn't recommend that i need to do the front ones. It came out to be $265 for the rear on the lexus? i think thats fair right??? very. IMO $250-300 is the minimum you can get out of the shop for anything that's remotely invasive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 very. IMO $250-300 is the minimum you can get out of the shop for anything that's remotely invasive. yeah i just asked them the life expectancy on the front ones too. I was hoping to get both done at the same time but maybe at the next oil change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjfootballer Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 (edited) Just had the front and rear brakes done with rotors surfaced. Around $500 total with parts and labor. Edited April 18, 2016 by pjfootballer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Just had the front and rear brakes done with rotors surfaced. Around $500 total with parts and labor. so thats fair for me then i guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Harris Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 I didn't think rotor surfacing was done much anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosher Ham Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 I didn't think rotor surfacing was done much anymore. If you get them early enough. Muffler repair however is a thing of the past...it is now a replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Harris Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 If you get them early enough. Muffler repair however is a thing of the past...it is now a replacement. New rotors are pretty cheap. By the time you pay a mechanic to turn them you almost could've had new ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoony Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 New rotors are pretty cheap. By the time you pay a mechanic to turn them you almost could've had new ones. That, and turning them simply does not work. It is a complete waste of money That said don't buy cheap rotors you definitely get what you pay for Just had the front and rear brakes done with rotors surfaced. Around $500 total with parts and labor. I know DIY isn't for everyone but check out YouTube. You could have done that job yourself with one wrench and a large pair of pliers for around $50. And you would have a much higher quality pad I guarantee Ask any mechanic brakes are by far the biggest profit center for any shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dont Taze Me Bro Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 Sure does, and I gotta drive back home from work tonight. Taking her in tomorrow. I've changed her name from "Elsie" to "The Trap". You could call her "Ackbar" My old beat up Honda Accord I owned we called the "Gray Ghost". The engine was always fine, got around 190K miles out of it and it was still going when I got rid of it. But everything else on it was dead at some point lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 (edited) You could call her "Akbar". My old beat up Honda Accord I owned we called the "Gray Ghost". The engine was always fine, got around 190K miles out of it and it was still going when I got rid of it. But everything else on it was dead at some point lol. Damn man, sounds like my brothers Sentra. 170,000 on it, veers to the left if you let go of the wheel, sounds like it's wanted to die the past couple years.He just sold his 72 Nova with a blower motor on it. Thing was rusted out and barely operable when I was born, he turned it in to a drag racing beast over the years. Green paint job, Marvin the Martian themed interior. Crazy it's gone. He wants a Dodge Challenger, his wife is like NOPE. Minivan for your ass. My car only has 65,000 on it, but it's 18 years old. Thinking some old timer had it and barely drove and mantained it at all. It gave a few fairly concerning codes the mechanic said, but nothing they want to go after yet. They replaced the crank shaft sensor for $22 and didn't charge me for labor. Car was there for 3 days and no charges for labor. They didn't fix the problem the first time so I thought it was fair. They said the car didn't conk out on them after the sensor replacement. We'll see how it holds up. I was ready to rate their asses with one star on every website their business was posted on if they gave me another huge bill. But these guys, even though they never answer their phone, seem like they feel bad about what has transpired and want to give me a fair shake. Edited April 21, 2016 by d0ublestr0ker0ll 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted April 21, 2016 Author Share Posted April 21, 2016 Good luck Stroker. Let me know how it goes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 (edited) So I mentioned it in the Random Thought Thread but my wife f'd up the lift gate on our car today. Our insurance deductible is $1,000. Option 1: I got two estimates from body shops, $2600 and $3400 respectively. They want to do "the works". The main damage is to the lift gate and a spoiler. There's some secondary damage to the radio antenna that got sheared off. Option 2: The alternative is to get a replacement lift gate off ebay/salvage/junkyard for about $500-$750 and have it installed or come in under $1,000. With the added incentive that it won't affect our insurance premiums. Any thoughts on which approach you would take? Edited April 28, 2016 by Elessar78 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 option 2 for sure. the only way i would get 1 if you have a super nice car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 option 2 for sure. the only way i would get 1 if you have a super nice car. It's not a super-nice car (read: benz, landrover). It's in great condition, or at least was. It's a Mazda CX-7, btw. Looked nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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