Elessar78 Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Nada. We just bought it from my aunt and uncle. They are good people and I don't believe they would've knowingly sold us a problem car. They also took it to Honda dealer to get it serviced before they sold it to us. I even have the report in hand and there is no mention of any mechanical issues and they took care of everything it recommended-including the timing belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 changed the fuel filter before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 No idea on the fuel filter. I'll ask when I bring it in. I looked up the symptoms and sounds like a possibility. Is it a $10-15 part? YouTube tutorial seems like a simple install? Any way to diagnose if that's the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) yeah it is cheap, if you are unsure just replace it easy enough if ya don't mind a little gas on ya add you can have them do a fuel pressure test if ya wish, fuel pump or relay could be acting up filter is the first Edited November 30, 2015 by twa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrypticVillain Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 I'm replacing my fuel tank and I need help identifying the correct name for these parts so I don't have to keep guessing... They are all part of a kit, but I'm not trying to buy a whole kit for $200 when I only need like 2 or 3 parts. They are for my 04 Yukon V8 4.7L I need this part^^^, but I need it to be straight and not bent. I know this^^^ a fuel line, but I need to know whats inside of here called. This^^^ is the piece I was talking about. It broke off. I also need to know what these are. I think they're seals, but if they aren't, I don't know what they are and the people at Auto Zone sure didn't help. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I came here hoping somebody could help me out because nobody else knows what the heck they're talking about. Including myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Fuel Line Connectors(quick connect seals) http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/fuel-line-connectors?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Default ya can usually find the seals in the HELP parts section why do you need a straight line? it is either the supply or return fuel line http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/MC/4306-07153788.html?utm_content=MC&utm_term=2000-2004+GMC+Yukon+XL+1500+Fuel+Line+Dorman+Rear+00-04+GMC+Fuel+Line+2003+2002&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=CL3YjN_ri8oCFRRlfgodBacA-A 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrypticVillain Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Fuel Line Connectors(quick connect seals) http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/fuel-line-connectors?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Default ya can usually find the seals in the HELP parts section why do you need a straight line? it is either the supply or return fuel line http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/MC/4306-07153788.html?utm_content=MC&utm_term=2000-2004+GMC+Yukon+XL+1500+Fuel+Line+Dorman+Rear+00-04+GMC+Fuel+Line+2003+2002&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=CL3YjN_ri8oCFRRlfgodBacA-A I thought I would be able to find it in the Help section, but I didn't see it. I don't know why my uncle wanted it straight, but I'll ask him. He probably told me already, but whatever... Thanks man... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 dumb question. my break pads are nearing their life. I have driven 55K on these original pads. Do i need to get my rotors changed too? This place is charging out 300-400 to replace my rotors and pads for my lexus?? thoughts. the dealer is asking near 600-700 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 dumb question. my break pads are nearing their life. I have driven 55K on these original pads. Do i need to get my rotors changed too? This place is charging out 300-400 to replace my rotors and pads for my lexus?? thoughts. the dealer is asking near 600-700 Can you afford it? It may or may not be necessary, but changing the rotors along with the pads is always the best way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonez3 Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 my 2008 dodge durango blew engine. It is a semi. I heard there may be issue with these Dodge models. Had 60K+ miles, not run a lot. Anybody know of this? Pissed off something good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 By blown engine, what do you (or they) mean? There are a lot of parts in an engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Can you afford it? It may or may not be necessary, but changing the rotors along with the pads is always the best way. I usually do not replace rotors unless they are warped,grooved or worn...but I'm frugal certainly agree all new is best though....a new car would be even better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Can you afford it? It may or may not be necessary, but changing the rotors along with the pads is always the best way. i can i just didn't know if someone would change them just to change them if they don't need them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonez3 Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 By blown engine, what do you (or they) mean? There are a lot of parts in an engine. IDK...Antifreeze with oil, all that jazz. Suspect 'cracked head'. IDK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 (edited) Two things guys: My windshield wipers get stuck for a moment in the "up" position when they're on anything other than the high setting. They will do a couple repitions, then stop at the top of the motion for about a second. I replaced the wipers with high quality ones, and it didn't help the problem much. The mechanic said it could be one of three issues, all ranging drastically in price, has anyone come across this particular issue and can pretty much diagnose it from what I've written? Also, not a mechanical issue, but I have two large spots on the car with the paint chipped off. I mean there's almost a good square foot in one spot. How well does sanding the edges and using those $10 cans of car spray paint end up looking? Edited January 6, 2016 by d0ublestr0ker0ll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Two things guys: My windshield wipers get stuck for a moment in the "up" position when they're on anything other than the high setting. They will do a couple repitions, then stop at the top of the motion for about a second. I replaced the wipers with high quality ones, and it didn't help the problem much. The mechanic said it could be one of three issues, all ranging drastically in price, has anyone come across this particular issue and can pretty much diagnose it from what I've written? Also, not a mechanical issue, but I have two large spots on the car with the paint chipped off. I mean there's almost a good square foot in one spot. How well does sanding the edges and using those $10 cans of car spray paint end up looking? wiper is probably bad contact with the circuit board in the motor,which can be taken off and cleaned,then lubed with electric grease spray paint depends on the color,but generally stands out what vehicle helps w/advice 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 wiper is probably bad contact with the circuit board in the motor,which can be taken off and cleaned,then lubed with electric grease spray paint depends on the color,but generally stands out what vehicle helps w/advice Thanks man. '98 Buick Century Custom (white). Old person car, but it was so cheap for having 63,000 miles on it, and it runs really well. Already had the back windows' motors/regulators replaced. Counting that bill, the car has cost me a little over 3 grand. I put some Rain X on the windshield, but we get frequent torrential downpours here and I'd like these wipers to work perfectly. The paint can wait, I'm wondering what my options are. I'd like for it to look close to perfect, but not have to drop a grand for an entire paintjob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 (edited) White is one of the best for a spraycan/worth trying on that one I think the circuit board can be reached pretty easy(4 screws on the outside of the motor to remove the plate) some spraying w/ electrical contact cleaner and a tube of dialectic grease will probably fix it....ya can also flush the switch on column while turning back and forth (but that is probably not the problem if it starts then stops) add a new/rebuilt motor isn't that high and not hard to install Edited January 6, 2016 by twa 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 (edited) You da man TWA. You think I could fix the wiper motor by myself? Novice here, but good at figuring things out on the fly. Should I just take her in instead? Edited January 7, 2016 by d0ublestr0ker0ll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 You da man TWA. You think I could fix the wiper motor by myself? Novice here, but good at figuring things out on the fly. Should I just take her in instead? it is where you can get to it easy(if I remember right) and have basic tools you should be able to (10 min job for me) the cover has torx screws, the whole motor comes off w/ three bolts and one nut on the arm there are probably youtube videos to help if ya try the cleaning route just remove the cover them gently wiggle the circuit board out...ya might eyeball the soldered contacts to see if any of them look bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve09ru Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 anyone have experience changing both upstream and downstream o2 sensors? If so, is it much of a pain? This would be for a 2012 Hyundai Elantra. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 anyone have experience changing both upstream and downstream o2 sensors? If so, is it much of a pain? This would be for a 2012 Hyundai Elantra. usually fairly simple unless they are stuck and need heated to loosen, ya will need to get under the car for the downstream locate, unplug and screw out....some aftermarket replacement ones you will need to splice wires 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve09ru Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 (edited) usually fairly simple unless they are stuck and need heated to loosen, ya will need to get under the car for the downstream locate, unplug and screw out....some aftermarket replacement ones you will need to splice wires Thanks! Is it normal for the upstream to be on the side of the engine by the dash rather than hatch? Also, are there certain aftermarket brands you recommend? Edited January 7, 2016 by steve09ru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 (edited) Thanks! Is it normal for the upstream to be on the side of the engine by the dash rather than hatch? Also, are there certain aftermarket brands you recommend? there is no normal anymore, no recommendation since I rarely do them....cheap with a good warranty usually works for easy to replace things that are not critical.....critical parts go quality Hatch?....where you from? Edited January 7, 2016 by twa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve09ru Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 there is no normal anymore, no recommendation since I rarely do them....cheap with a good warranty usually works for easy to replace things that are not critical.....critical parts go quality Hatch?....where you from? ah gotcha - thanks! sorry 'latch' haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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