skinsmarydu Posted April 2, 2016 Share Posted April 2, 2016 I was at a red light today and my car shut off. It started back up when I turned the key to the off position and back to ignition. Drove another few miles with no problem. I did go down to E yesterday on my gas gauge, maybe that messed with the fuel pump? Filled it up yesterday though. I also am due for an oil change. What I'm reading on the interwebs is that there are many possibilities of what it could be. Worst case scenarios would dock me a pretty penny. What will it cost to diagnose it? '98 Buick Century 65,000 miles on it. You very likely had a bunch of crap in the bottom of your fuel tank, everyone does. But when you run "down, right to it", you got a hiccup. With that many miles, use mid-grade gas...I don't care that people say gas makes no difference, but it does. (my mechanic throws a little Lucas in with every oil change) Start with the fuel filter, if you think you must. But decent gas & a "boost" is a good start. (I also make sure I use Max-Life oil, you're getting up there in mileage...I'm pushing 121K.) We take good care of "Steve". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 So no incidents of shutting down since that one last week, but this morning she scared me enough to almost pull in to a random parking lot. She had a few instances of "hiccuping" while accelerating, where she'd just stop accelerating and would glide for a fraction of a second, then stutter back to accelerating. Thought she wanted to shut off on me, but it happened about 3 times in the middle of the drive, the last 4 miles -while scary- were incident-free. I'm getting an oil change tomorrow. I'll ask how much their diagnostics cost because the timing of this is horrible where I've saved up just enough to move in to a new place and this will kill my dreams and aspirations if it's something ****ed up in my car. The drive home just now was incident-free. Knock on wood though, gotta go back in half an hour. Will ask for their best oil tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Have them change the in-line gas filter, fairly cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 Stroker, my best guess (and that's all it is, is a guess) based on common failures and the symptom your car is exhibiting is a failing ignition module. Or ignition coil, or a combination of both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Ok, now I'm scared. It shut off about 4 times on the way to work right now. Scared to drive it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rictus58 Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 i had that happen to me...they replaced the throttle body. that fixed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Ok, now I'm scared. It shut off about 4 times on the way to work right now. Scared to drive it. does it start right back up or does it need to sit a minute? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 does it start right back up or does it need to sit a minute? Starts back up on the first try, but today it died within 5 seconds a couple times. Managed to get it to a shop. Waiting for a call on what they think it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malapropismic Depository Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Sorry that it's a bit late, but I always go with the OEM stuff. NGK or Denso for Honda and Toyota. AC Delco for GM. Champion for Chrysler. Motorcraft for Ford. That's the best to use. Thank you sir, for thoroughly including all the major makes of cars, which included my own ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 They just called me. Drove the car 12 miles and didn't have any symptoms. Unbelievable. Says it seems to run smoothly. Recommended using premium gas and gas additives to see if it's gunk needing to work its way through, like yall eluded to earlier. What additive should I pick up at the store ya think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 (edited) I like seafoam still think ya you change the fuel filter unless ya know it has been changed add premium gas is a waste unless ya are having knocks ect, where you are buying it matters though Edited April 5, 2016 by twa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malapropismic Depository Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 I like seafoam Lucas makes a really good one as well, I've often heard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 (edited) Lucas makes a really good one as well, I've often heard. yes,but I don't think it treats moisture....frigging ethanol add HEET is pretty popular here Edited April 5, 2016 by twa 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 They just called me. Drove the car 12 miles and didn't have any symptoms. Unbelievable. Says it seems to run smoothly. Recommended using premium gas and gas additives to see if it's gunk needing to work its way through, like yall eluded to earlier. What additive should I pick up at the store ya think? While you're at the store, pick up an ignition module. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 I like seafoam still think ya you change the fuel filter unless ya know it has been changed add premium gas is a waste unless ya are having knocks ect, where you are buying it matters though Thanks for all your help. I don't know if the filter has been changed. Gotta check the carfax again. She at least got an oil change today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 so lexus quoted me for front and rear pads and rotors for $1800!!! are you kidding me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 so lexus quoted me for front and rear pads and rotors for $1800!!! are you kidding me Yeah, that's pretty expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Yeah, that's pretty expensive. spring, how would you recommend me getting my breaks checked? should i just tell them to check the measurement of the pads when i get my tired rotated? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 spring, how would you recommend me getting my breaks checked? should i just tell them to check the measurement of the pads when i get my tired rotated? That's an easy way. Or any time you bring it in for service, just ask them to check your brakes. If they aren't idiots (and potentially want to sell you brakes if they are worn out) then they'll do it for free. If you don't trust them, ask them for measurements on the pads. Less than 2/32nds of an inch (or whatever that equates to in mm) won't pass a VA safety inspection so that's when I consider them unsafe. If they are close, it wouldn't hurt to do them at the same time. Of course, they could just lie to you about the measurements if they weren't on the up and up... which is just one of the many reasons why it's important to find a shop you trust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylor703 Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 so lexus quoted me for front and rear pads and rotors for $1800!!! are you kidding me Not trying to sound like a dick but it's a Lexus bro. I've been working the parts counter at a Chevy dealer for 8 years now. Anytime used cars needs pads and rotors for an foreign car I just call up Napa. What year and model dude? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Not trying to sound like a dick but it's a Lexus bro. I've been working the parts counter at a Chevy dealer for 8 years now. Anytime used cars needs pads and rotors for an foreign car I just call up Napa. What year and model dude? 09 is250 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 I wouldn't use NAPA pads on a 1985 Ford Fiesta. Too many defects, noise. Vibration from rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chipwhich Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 so lexus quoted me for front and rear pads and rotors for $1800!!! are you kidding me CHeaper than my Range Rover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoSkins0721 Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 so lexus quoted me for front and rear pads and rotors for $1800!!! are you kidding me So here's my rotor stories: Volvo - 2000 C70 - In 2004, my wife took the car to Mooer's Volvo Richmond - 30k miles. We bought it in 2003 w/ 21k miles on it. Mechanic called & said "$950 to replace rotors & pads." I'm on the road for work, wife calls in a panic "What do I tell them?" "I'll call them." "Hey, so what's the story with the C70?" Mooer's, "Cars rotors are below the VA limit they need to be replaced...blah, blah, blah." Me: "Really? With 30k miles? I have a 15yo BMW with 90k miles & have never replaced the rotors. Why do you think they've worn?" "No idea but they need to be replaced." Me: "Ok. So what's the measurement, per rotor?" Mooer's "Uh...let me get those and call you back." Me: "Nope. Don't do anything. I'm not paying for what you did & my wife is coming to pick the car up. Do you understand?" Mooer's: "Yeah, but ...blah..blah" Wife went & got the car that day. The NEXT morning, Mooer's calls me and says "Uh, the mechanic made a mistake & looked at the wrong numbers. The rotors ARE within spec." Me: "Oh yeah? Would you be making this call if I had paid for the rotor replacement? Don't answer that. **** you. Click" Friends Lexus SUV - his girlfriend takes the SUV into "Lube & Screw". They want $2k to replace rotors & pads. She calls her boyfriend. Now, my buddy is mid 70s. He built cars with Mr. Petty (Richard's father). He worked for Richard Petty for many, many years & is a personal friend of Richard. He has forgotten more about cars than most people know. So he called "Lube & Screw" and told them not to touch the car, give it back to his GF. "Lube & Screw" forced his GF to sign a waiver "we aren't responsible...rotors are out of spec if you crash...blah...blah..." He checked the rotors himself - no problems. Changed the pads himself & told her to never take to that place again. I hate thieves. Especially when they prey on woman. Moore's Volvo in Richmond - ****ing thieves. Assholes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylor703 Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 I wouldn't use NAPA pads on a 1985 Ford Fiesta. Too many defects, noise. Vibration from rotors. Used them on my daily beater Accord and have never had an issue. Wouldn't put them on my trailblazer ss though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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