The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread

[Elessar78]

15 hours ago, Springfield said:

When it gets really hot outside, add a couple gallons of ice water to the gas for better fuel efficiency.

When it's REALLY hot, use gatorade or any sports drink instead of ice water. The stuff contains electrolytes, like electricity (electric + lights), so it helps your battery. 

 

The fuel tank is like the stomach of the car and there are pipes and veins that take those electrolytes from the stomach to the battery (the car "brain"). 

 

Don't skimp either. More is better. 

 

IF the car won't start afterwards, your car is dehydrated. Add more water. 

Edited August 22, 2019 by Elessar78

[d0ublestr0ker0ll]

There are two thin silver high tension cables above my engine. One of them is frayed. My anti-lock brake light is on. I'm going to the mechanic tomorrow. Wondering if those two things have something to do with each other. Buick century custom 98.

Edited August 22, 2019 by d0ublestr0ker0ll

[twa]

the antilock is usually a dirty or bad sensor on the wheel

no idea what cables you are speaking of.

[Springfield]

1 hour ago, d0ublestr0ker0ll said:

There are two thin silver high tension cables above my engine. One of them is frayed. My anti-lock brake light is on. I'm going to the mechanic tomorrow. Wondering if those two things have something to do with each other. Buick century custom 98.

 

You’re probably talking about a ground strap.  Bare braided metal wire?  As long as it isn’t broken it’s no problem.

 

Much more likely to be a bad speed sensor like twa said.

[d0ublestr0ker0ll]

Center of first pic then a close-up...

 

Edited August 23, 2019 by d0ublestr0ker0ll

[twa]

throttle cable

 

add

one is cruise control ,the other throttle

Edited August 23, 2019 by twa

[d0ublestr0ker0ll]

Damn.  Well at least I know a guy. Thanks guys.

Hmm, my cruise control doesn't work... I will have him look at it.

[Springfield]

8 minutes ago, d0ublestr0ker0ll said:

Damn.  Well at least I know a guy. Thanks guys.

Hmm, my cruise control doesn't work... I will have him look at it.

 

Cruise control probably doesn’t work cause your abs light is on.  Have that fixed first.  Although the cable does look fairly frayed in your second pic.

[PokerPacker]

9 hours ago, Elessar78 said:

When it's REALLY hot, use gatorade or any sports drink instead of ice water. The stuff contains electrolytes, like electricity (electric + lights), so it helps your battery. 

 

The fuel tank is like the stomach of the car and there are pipes and veins that take those electrolytes from the stomach to the battery (the car "brain"). 

 

Don't skimp either. More is better. 

 

IF the car won't start afterwards, your car is dehydrated. Add more water. 

It's got electrolytes.  Its what cars crave.

[Malapropismic Depository]

@twa and @Springfield here's the perfect question, since it relates directly to car shops.

I've always wondered why they do this, because almost all of them do it, and for personal reasons, I prefer not to have it done.

When I pick up my car from a shop, they park it in the lot, and I go to start the engine that's currently off, however... the A/C is already set on full blast on

every setting - the AC power is on, it's on the coldest temperature setting, and the highest 'power' setting.

 

At first I thought they may have done that as a "courtesy" to the customer, but that would only make sense if the engine is

running when I pick up my car. But the car is parked, so the engine is not running, so neither is the AC, so it's not "gradually cooling the car for me"

while they wait for me to take it.

So there must be another reason. Like they're doing it for themselves, or something else. But I can't think of any scenario, why

a car would be up on the hydraulic lifts, and they'd be working under it, and need the AC on ? (they're not working on interior, and only spend seconds inside the car).

 

It may not sound like a big deal, amd it may sound petty, but I'm OCD and cautious about over-using the AC. When I use it for myself, it's nowhere near those

highest settings they put it on, before they finished the work and turned the car off.

Anyone know the real reason ?

With all due respect, is it ok in the future to request ahead of time, that shop mechanics not do this ?

 

Edited October 24, 2019 by Malapropismic Depository

[TheDoyler23]

56 minutes ago, Malapropismic Depository said:

@twa and @Springfield here's the perfect question, since it relates directly to car shops.

 

... the A/C is already set on full blast on

every setting - the AC power is on, it's on the coldest temperature setting, and the highest 'power' setting.

 

 

I heard they prop their feet on the dash and have the AC blow on their junk. Gets hot in those shops. 

 

 

 

[twa]

most do it because a closed car is hot as hell when they get in to move it.(most larger shops use porters to move cars)

 

always ok to make a request

[Malapropismic Depository]

6 minutes ago, TheDoyler23 said:

 

I heard they prop their feet on the dash and have the AC blow on their junk. Gets hot in those shops. 

 

 

 

 

Some mechanics must be MMA or UFC fighters, because they're known to complain about "Hot Balls" when they fight.

 

https://myteashirts.com/shop/derrick-lewis-the-black-beast-my-balls-was-hot-shirt/

 

[PleaseBlitz]

9 minutes ago, TheDoyler23 said:

 

I heard they prop their feet on the dash and have the AC blow on their junk. Gets hot in those shops. 

 

 

 

 

We may need to restart the "Things to do in ______" thread. 

[skinsmarydu]

12 minutes ago, TheDoyler23 said:

 

I heard they prop their feet on the dash and have the AC blow on their junk. Gets hot in those shops. 

 

 

 

I think that was in the create your own meme thread with the world's most interesting man...I can't find it but...

"I don't always stay in a hotel, but when I do I put my feet up on the a/c to let it blow on my junk"...wait, was it your post?😆

[Springfield]

Yeah, if it’s hot af then I’ll turn in the AC full blast.  If it’s cold af the I’ll turn in the heat if the engine’s hot.  Nothing more nothing less.

[PleaseBlitz]

44 minutes ago, skinsmarydu said:

I think that was in the create your own meme thread with the world's most interesting man...I can't find it but...

"I don't always stay in a hotel, but when I do I put my feet up on the a/c to let it blow on my junk"...wait, was it your post?😆

 

It was a thread from years ago when @zoony traveled a lot for work and let it slip that he was in Cleveland.  I started a thread called "Things to do in Cleveland" which degenerated into suggestions about where to prop up his junk.  

[d0ublestr0ker0ll]

I went to a Take 5 for the first time today.  Their shtick is that they are super fast, like it should only take 5 minutes to get your oil changed.  First of all, the service was good.  I have a question about what they observed.  But secondly, it takes more than 5 minutes.  The person ahead of me was there for half an hour, it took them 20 minutes to change my oil and fill my fluids.  Not as much of a complaint as it is a warning.  Should be called Take 50.

 

Now, I have a slow oil leak.  The seals are jacked up. It doesn't drip onto the ground, but my oil pan was covered in oil.  I also have fuel leaking into my combustion chamber.  Dude looked a little concerned and my first thought was that my car is going to blow up. Am I going to die in a car fire?

Edited November 24, 2019 by d0ublestr0ker0ll

[twa]

2 hours ago, d0ublestr0ker0ll said:

 

 

Now, I have a slow oil leak.  The seals are jacked up. It doesn't drip onto the ground, but my oil pan was covered in oil.  I also have fuel leaking into my combustion chamber.  Dude looked a little concerned and my first thought was that my car is going to blow up. Am I going to die in a car fire?

 

if it is not dripping just take to a car wash and blast it off, messy but effective

 

fuel leaking how?

most all now are  electric fuel pump and fuel injection and do not pump fuel w/o it running(it pulses the pump only when ignition is turned on)

 

the oil is not much of a concern...gas on the other hand 

 

 

[skinsmarydu]

My ultra awesome mechanic is mobile now. Oil change, full tune up, fill fluids and new power steering pump done in about 3 hours in my own driveway for $710. 

Found out a lot about it, tho. I've got the bigass Buick 3800, have to rock the whole motor forward to get to the back plugs, and the power steering pump is under the motor. 

I got the throat back, too. Very happy. 😁

 

[Larry]

2000 F-150.  (See?  I'm a conservative.)  

 

Heater doesn't work.  (It blows, just doesn't get hot.)  

 

There's also two other issues that are kinds temperature-related.  

 

1)  I commute back and forth 20 miles at 60.  Temp gauge on the car (it's not calibrated or anything, just "H", "C", with not even marks in between) stays at, let's call it 50%.  But if I take it on the interstate, then the gauce goes to more like 60%, and stays there.  If I get off the interstate, the gauge goes back to 50% almost instantly.  

 

2)  And, although I can drive it at 60 for 20 minutes without a problem, if I drive 20 minutes, park for 5-10 minutes, then start it up, then the engine starts, but has no power at all.  Like it's got no gas.  Stepping on the gas pedal does not increase RPMs.  Sitting 5 minutes to not fix it.  Putting it in gear and driving 25 feet fixes it.  If the car is parked for an hour, the problem is still there.  Park it for 2 hours, no problem.  

 

It occurs to me that, while problem #2 is obviously a heat-related problem, (The only thing that happens, if I park the car for 8 hours vs 10 minutes, is that the engine compartment cools off.) it might not be a cooling system problem.  (For example, this could be some electronics module that gets hot when the car stops moving, but cools off after a few hours.)  

 

Larry the shadetree mechanic thinks a water pump is a place to start.  It's the only thing I can think of that might cause the water to be hotter at 70MPH/2000RPM than it is at 60MPH/1700RPM.  Maybe the higher RPM is causing the pump to cavitate.  And who knows, could a water pump explain the heater problem, too?  

 

The mechanic I kinda trust (I lost trust in the one I've been using for 20 years) said it was the fan clutch.  Which really doesn't make sense to me.  You don't need a fan at 70MPH, you need it when you're stopped at a light.  (And whaddaya know, it didn't fix the problems.)

[Springfield]

1 hour ago, Larry said:

2000 F-150.  (See?  I'm a conservative.)  

 

Heater doesn't work.  (It blows, just doesn't get hot.)  

 

There's also two other issues that are kinds temperature-related.  

 

1)  I commute back and forth 20 miles at 60.  Temp gauge on the car (it's not calibrated or anything, just "H", "C", with not even marks in between) stays at, let's call it 50%.  But if I take it on the interstate, then the gauce goes to more like 60%, and stays there.  If I get off the interstate, the gauge goes back to 50% almost instantly.  

 

2)  And, although I can drive it at 60 for 20 minutes without a problem, if I drive 20 minutes, park for 5-10 minutes, then start it up, then the engine starts, but has no power at all.  Like it's got no gas.  Stepping on the gas pedal does not increase RPMs.  Sitting 5 minutes to not fix it.  Putting it in gear and driving 25 feet fixes it.  If the car is parked for an hour, the problem is still there.  Park it for 2 hours, no problem.  

 

It occurs to me that, while problem #2 is obviously a heat-related problem, (The only thing that happens, if I park the car for 8 hours vs 10 minutes, is that the engine compartment cools off.) it might not be a cooling system problem.  (For example, this could be some electronics module that gets hot when the car stops moving, but cools off after a few hours.)  

 

Larry the shadetree mechanic thinks a water pump is a place to start.  It's the only thing I can think of that might cause the water to be hotter at 70MPH/2000RPM than it is at 60MPH/1700RPM.  Maybe the higher RPM is causing the pump to cavitate.  And who knows, could a water pump explain the heater problem, too?  

 

The mechanic I kinda trust (I lost trust in the one I've been using for 20 years) said it was the fan clutch.  Which really doesn't make sense to me.  You don't need a fan at 70MPH, you need it when you're stopped at a light.  (And whaddaya know, it didn't fix the problems.)

Problem 1:  Have you checked the coolant level?  It sounds to me like a cooling system that’s low, but not low enough to completely overheat.  I doubt the water pump simply because there isn’t that much difference in flow from 300 RPM.  I’d start with the coolant level.  If it isn’t low then I’d move towards thermostat.  I do agree that the fan clutch isn’t the problem because it’s getting hotter while moving.

 

Problem 2:  Little bit more odd.  My first two thoughts are fuel pump or idle air control valve.  Just a feeling.  Someone who knows what they’re doing need to experience it though.

 

 

19 hours ago, d0ublestr0ker0ll said:

I went to a Take 5 for the first time today.  Their shtick is that they are super fast, like it should only take 5 minutes to get your oil changed.  First of all, the service was good.  I have a question about what they observed.  But secondly, it takes more than 5 minutes.  The person ahead of me was there for half an hour, it took them 20 minutes to change my oil and fill my fluids.  Not as much of a complaint as it is a warning.  Should be called Take 50.

 

Now, I have a slow oil leak.  The seals are jacked up. It doesn't drip onto the ground, but my oil pan was covered in oil.  I also have fuel leaking into my combustion chamber.  Dude looked a little concerned and my first thought was that my car is going to blow up. Am I going to die in a car fire?

I doubt you’re going to die and if it’s not leaking that badly then perhaps it’s not worth fixing.  Any idea if there’s another place you can go to have these things confirmed?

 

Not really sure what they mean by fuel leaking into the combustion chamber.

 

what kind of car is it?

Edited November 25, 2019 by Springfield

[twa]

4 hours ago, Larry said:

2000 F-150.  (See?  I'm a conservative.)  

 

Heater doesn't work.  (It blows, just doesn't get hot.)  

 

 

 

can you feel it is changing to heat at all?

they have a blend door(flap that redirects air ) that the actuator (motor) goes out on sometimes or the switch itself .

 

I agree with Springy the pump is not likely,  low coolant or sludge in the system can exhibit those symptoms

 

separate issue from the no power

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+f150+blend+door+actuator+replacement&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS869US870&oq=2000+f150+blend+door&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l5.17061j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Edited November 25, 2019 by twa

[Springfield]

Blend door actuators are VERY common, the only reason I thought coolant level was because of the other symptom as well.

[Larry]

Yeah, I could easily believe the blend door.  Among other reasons, because when I change modes on the heater (Defrost/vent/floor), I can hear the doors moving.  But not when I adjust the cool/hot dial.  

 

Unfortunately, I tried that video twa posted, slicing open my heater core.  (It's a 20 year old pickup.  So, if there's a place inside the dash that's got duct tape on it, then it just fits the image.)  

 

And the blend door's working fine.  The heater core, the "inside radiator" isn't getting hot.  

 

Couldn't really see an easy way to check coolant levels.  It's got a plastic jug.  And not the old CRS I'm used to.  This one, the jug is pressurized when the engine's hot.  And it's got coolant in it.  But I wasn't sure there's actually coolant in the main system.  Upper radiator hose squeezes easily in my hand.  But, I disconnect the hose (carefully), and get water out of it.  

 

Suspect the heater core's clogged.  Don't know any way to check that.