twa Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 A few hundred for cv joints eh? Sounds like quality do you feel better paying a thousand? ever hear the story about the horse blankets and the thoroughbred racehorse? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Harris Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 Dear Abby, Dear ES Mechanics, My car was declared a total lost today... I am saddnded. That being said, I'm going truck shopping. I want to stick with Chevy/GMC. What kind of pitfalls should I look out for? And how high is too high when it comes to millage? If you want need high mileage, might want to check out some tacomas. I don't trust domestics with higher mileage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrypticVillain Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 I'm so sorry y'all. Lol When I said Truck shopping, I really meant SUV. Just realized that. Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosher Ham Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 (edited) You want a big SUV right ? I would look into a Yukon. You're talking used it sounds. Just a quick look at Auto Trader has a 2003 Escalade (GM), with less than 100k, in Springfield, For $13K EDIT Yukon, Escalade, Tahoe...all the same truck essentially. Edited July 9, 2015 by Kosher Ham 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Harris Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 Cargurus.com i found to be better. Much better search filters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoony Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 My wife and I just test drove the new Yukon. I just don't get it. Huge vehicle with no room. WTD is the point? No 3rd row legroom, no 2nd row legroom, absolutely NO cargo room (i was literally shocked at the rear cargo area. Maybe a foot or foot and a half). All that and terrible gas mileage. I just don't understand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrypticVillain Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 That's why I like the older ones. These new vehicles are too small unless I get something luxurious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosher Ham Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 I have the one with the removable 3rd row seat, besides standard maintenance, had to get the instrument cluster fixed...sent it out and had it back in a week. Cost pennies compared to what the dealer was trying to charge me. Fortunately, I have two other cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 i wish someone here owned a detailing business. I can't find a good one to save my life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 usually just the frt motor mount allowing enough slack to throw the shafts out of align shoot they rebuild cv shafts here for a couple hundred, now from honda is another matter So we got it checked out and they said it was back brakes and rotors. Which makes sense because the stopping distance hasn't been great lately. But not sure why I'd hear a rumbling sound in the front at start up if it was the back brakes. On another note. Air conditioner problems now. This past weekend, it was blowing air out the vents but nothing cold. Today and yesterday it's blowing really cold (55°). So intermittent cold air, no pattern of when it does or does not other than it was super hot this weekend and today it's in the low 70s. Thoughts? Do I just need to recharge the refrigerant? I'm feeling like a cheap skate right now (because of brake repairs) but I don't want to use this can of refrigerant unless I have to—it was like $50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 (edited) So we got it checked out and they said it was back brakes and rotors. Which makes sense because the stopping distance hasn't been great lately. But not sure why I'd hear a rumbling sound in the front at start up if it was the back brakes. On another note. Air conditioner problems now. This past weekend, it was blowing air out the vents but nothing cold. Today and yesterday it's blowing really cold (55°). So intermittent cold air, no pattern of when it does or does not other than it was super hot this weekend and today it's in the low 70s. Thoughts? Do I just need to recharge the refrigerant? I'm feeling like a cheap skate right now (because of brake repairs) but I don't want to use this can of refrigerant unless I have to—it was like $50. If it is blowing cold at times it is not the charge(low charge it will not blow cold for more than seconds), most likely one of the relay modules or acuator for the blend door ya can check to see if the cooling fans on the radiator are both working, they do have issues with that relay. add http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/98750-2005-ody-intermittant-air-conditioning-2.html Edited July 17, 2015 by twa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 My Christian God! I hope it's the AC Relay. 7 bucks? Plug and chug? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinsmarydu Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 Hey, Springy! My key-bob stopped working, battery wasn't the problem. I downloaded the instructions to re-program it, do those work? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted July 17, 2015 Author Share Posted July 17, 2015 Hey, Springy! My key-bob stopped working, battery wasn't the problem. I downloaded the instructions to re-program it, do those work? What kind of car is it again? GM? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinsmarydu Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 Yep, '99 Monte Carlo Z34 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted July 17, 2015 Author Share Posted July 17, 2015 Yep, '99 Monte Carlo Z34 Press the lock and unlock button simultaneously to re synchronize the transmitter. If that doesn't work and it isn't the battery then you'll probably need a new transmitter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosher Ham Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 haha, key-bob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfitzo53 Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Speaking of AC, after trying the neighborhood place that said it just needed a recharge, we took it to my friend's place. (The only reason we didn't do that before is that it's a much longer drive, so it's not as convenient.) Replaced the AC relay and things seem to be good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 If it is blowing cold at times it is not the charge(low charge it will not blow cold for more than seconds), most likely one of the relay modules or acuator for the blend door ya can check to see if the cooling fans on the radiator are both working, they do have issues with that relay. add http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/98750-2005-ody-intermittant-air-conditioning-2.html I can check the diode with a multimeter, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 I can check the diode with a multimeter, correct? do I look like a electrician? I'd assume so if ya can use a multimeter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c slag Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 We get paid per flate rate hour....if the repair takes longer we can fill out a request for extra time form...most if not all find the garbage can...you bring the car to us to find the problem...the owner is not responsible for how long it takes to diagnose the problem..just what is needed to correct the problem...and cover all your bases on this..they only want called once...with a total price...include labor...part and diagnosis....it all about them wanting to return for future repairs..and service Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 Dumb question. My lexus awd car is at 45k and i haven't done anything to the breaks since i bought the car brand new besides a brake flush. At my last oil change, they said they measured the pads and said i could likely go 5K more. When do i need to think about replacing pads and or rotors? Is there any difference since i have a AWD car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted July 26, 2015 Author Share Posted July 26, 2015 Dumb question. My lexus awd car is at 45k and i haven't done anything to the breaks since i bought the car brand new besides a brake flush. At my last oil change, they said they measured the pads and said i could likely go 5K more. When do i need to think about replacing pads and or rotors? Is there any difference since i have a AWD car? Brake wear is highly subjective. Some people are easier on the brakes than others are. 45k is pretty good, especially for this area. The brakes should be replace when hey are at or below 2/32nds of an inch. That's the legal limit in VA (below that and they fail inspection). It's possible, if not likely, that the rotors will need to be replaced with the pads. Pro tip: Use factory (Toyota) pads and rotors . It'll cost more but those cheap pads are junk. Cheap brake parts are inexpensive for a reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Brake wear is highly subjective. Some people are easier on the brakes than others are. 45k is pretty good, especially for this area. The brakes should be replace when hey are at or below 2/32nds of an inch. That's the legal limit in VA (below that and they fail inspection). It's possible, if not likely, that the rotors will need to be replaced with the pads. Pro tip: Use factory (Toyota) pads and rotors . It'll cost more but those cheap pads are junk. Cheap brake parts are inexpensive for a reason. Spring, how do i approach this situation at the dealer? I go to the Toyota dealer for my oil change. Should i ask them to rotate my tires and have them check my brakes? They usually charge just to check the breaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 $590 to fix my AC. Plus $40 wasted dollars on a refrigerant kit. Air compressor failed. $590 to fix my AC. Plus $40 wasted dollars on a refrigerant kit. Air compressor failed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now