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The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread


Springfield

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It's not a super-nice car (read: benz, landrover). It's in great condition, or at least was. It's a Mazda CX-7, btw. Looked nice.

Land Rover is not a super nice car.

But yeah, a used tail gate wouldn't be a bad idea. Just seems like a huge PITA to me and I'd be concerned about fitting properly. I'm not a body guy though.

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Good stuff. Thanks, gents. 

 

So is there a correct way to do this? Meaning in a perfect world where money and time were no object... would you get the OEM part, paint it, sand/repaint/refinish surrounding areas to match? 

 

Or would you get to the same end result anyway by removing the old part and installing the new part? Assuming of course that all damage is localized to the lift gate. 

Edited by Elessar78
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not following, if you can get a used one the same color you simply install it.....hard to find usually

 

if not then you will need to paint a new or used....I prefer painting just the damage w/o blending adjacent panels

 

in most cases except some tri-coat colors a match can be achieved w/o blending if you are competent (subject to the original paint not being a Monday job)

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My dad just got out of the dealer and they recommended the following services 

 

Power steering pump 

water pump & drive belt

right front axle seal

valve cover gasket

lower ball joint boots

outer tired boots 

alignment

 

More than $2K for these services.  How much is this real or not?

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I never go to the dealer for repairs unless it's a dealer recall. They make most of their money on service.

Tell your dad to take it for a second opinion.

 

yeah i am telling him to come to a place near my house. I told him come during a weekday where a mechanic is not busy.  He always goes on a Friday on Saturday where its super busy

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left headlights on for about two hours and car would not start. Restarted it with a jump start. It's happens every time we forget to turn the headlights off, sometimes as little as 1 hour. I got the battery checked about 5 months back and it said that the battery was on the low end but not "bad". Could it be something else? Alternator? The battery is several years old. Should I get it tested again and if it's low just get a new battery?

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Just got it tested at advance and guy said numbers check out and alternator should be good.

It doesn't have an automatic light shutoff for the headlights. Is the prob.

Still change battery?

Edited by Elessar78
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I was about to change my fuel filter, as I've always done it as regular maintenance for all my cars.

But I looked at the repair manual for my car, and it says "Note : The fuel filter should only be serviced when fuel contamination is suspected"

 

This seems odd, because logic would tell me that a filter of any kind should be replaced eventually, as sediment will continue to build up, just by nature of a filter's function.

Are fuel filter's really not needed to be changed on "newer" cars ?

 

And they even put the filter inside the fuel tank on this model, so the tank has to be removed, just to change the filter, unlike my previous cars, where the filter was located on the side of the car, just below the driver's door. It would be cool if I don't need to change it, since I'm not looking forward to removing the whole fuel tank, just to change the filter. But again, the statement in the manual come across as very odd, so am I really understanding this correctly, that I should not change it unless there's a major problem like contamination ?

Edited by Malapropismic Depository
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I had an interesting car issue.  I have a 2010 Honda Pilot and was caught in the back up a couple weeks ago when the Woodrow Wilson bridge was shut down for a suspicious package.  While barely inching in traffic a terrible grinding noise started which was tied to the rpm of the engine.  It started to have white smoke.  I pulled over, let it cool down.  I started again but turned the ac off just in case.  Turns out it ran fine with no ac so I figured blown compressor. 

 

I took it to my honda dealership and had them look it over.  Turns out it was a bad relay that was stuck open.  When it sticks the pressure just keeps going up on the compressor until it vents, which they said is the noise I heard.  The smoke was oil and freon hitting the exhaust. 

 

Popped one in for me for $25 bucks and no problems since.  Feel pretty damn lucky. 

Edited by HOF44
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Thanks twa and Springfield.

You guys always seem to be in agreement with each other, too. :) I guess great minds think alike.

I've had to replace a fuel pump in the '99 MC...because of running low fuel.  You get down to all the nasty stuff in the bottom of the tank, etc. 

I never get below 1/4 tank now.  And I always go mid-grade... we almost drive "antiques" now, so no matter what they say, gas does matter.

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