The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread

[grego]

The only thing I'd check is what % is synthetic. I've heard it varies - anywhere from 1 or 2 % to 40 or 50% for pennzoil gold blend. 

 

 

[d0ublestr0ker0ll]

I think my car has Spring allergies.  Do changes of temperature sometimes spur mechanical problems?  Thinking the expanding metal has an effect or something.  She's been sputtering wile idle lately.  Hasn't shut off on me yet (knock on wood), but that worry has crept back in to my mind.  They replaced like 5-10 things last year and she's been great ever since.  Didn't replace the fuel filter or ignition switch, though.  I even brought those up to them and they said, "no, it's not that." to both.

 

When I'm stopped on inclines, the moments where she sounds like she's trying to stay awake are more dramatic.  Nerve wracking.

 

Anyway, I got the top coat of paint off of my hood with some 300 grit sandpaper.  Same with the trunk, as it was already chipping when I bought it as well.  Going to paint it myself.  Collecting supplies and doing a lot of research.  Taught myself how to paint my drums, and re-did my old set twice.  Both times it turned out awesome.  Sold that ***** for more than I bought it.  Wondering if I should strip the entire car and paint it a new color, or just stick with matching the hood and trunk with the current color.

[Spaceman Spiff]

Today, I just purchased an old Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited.  Craigslist.  Over the weekend, test drove it, took it to a shop and it checked out perfectly.  Some minor rust stuff underneath, a shock needs to be replaced but that's it.  Engine checked out fine, electronics checked out fine.

 

Anyway, I pick it up this afternoon and take it home.  I stop in front of my apartment to run inside to get something before parking it in the lot.  Put the emergency flashers on.  

 

Come back out, try to start it up...and the engine doesn't turn over.  Tried it again and it flat out doesn't start.  Dead.  

 

Pop the hood and immediately saw that the battery looked suspect.  My fault for not looking under the hood myself as I'm certainly not a mechanic (and why I'm in this thread).  But I figured that something like this would have been caught by the guys in the garage when I took it for the inspection.  They seemed to have done a thorough job, had the hood open, up on the rack and raised so they could see underneath, it all looked legit.

 

Anyway, I start playing with the wiring because I figured it had to be electric.  Sure enough, I moved the part next to the tape to the left and the emergency lights started flashing.  Tried to start again, didn't work.  Repeated this process a couple more times and it didn't start.  Then I wiggled the wiring a little more forcefully and was able to get it to start.  

 

Drove it to the lot at my apartment, parked it, turned off the engine.  Turned it on again, seems to be smooth.  

 

Still nervous. The guy that sold it to me is going to come over and look at it.  He hasn't cashed my check yet.

 

But what do you guys make of this?  The tape looks suspect as ****, so does the wiring.  

 

 

[twa]

someone replaced the terminals and it probably is loose or corroded ....open wire like that needs corrosion protection.(good for even factory terminals.

 

clean.tighten and apply corrosion protection...or replace cables which is a bit harder

 

[Springfield]

Looks like there used to be conduit there to hold the wires together and it broke so the previous owner wrapped it in electrical tape.  Only way to find out if something is amiss is to cut it out and inspect.

 

Also, those universal terminal ends are notorious for having a poor connection and loosening up where the battery cables go into it.  That would be the first place I look for a bad connection.

[Spaceman Spiff]

Good stuff, thanks guys.  The guy I bought it from came out, replaced the tape with real electrical tape, also tightened the the terminal ends.  Makes sense, the battery isn't the original so things don't always line up right.

[twa]

get some battery terminal spray or the treated washers or corrosion is gonna happen

[Dr. Do Itch Big]

Can a slave cylinder cause a clutch to slip and get continuously worse?

[twa]

1 hour ago, Dr. Do Itch Big said:

Can a slave cylinder cause a clutch to slip and get continuously worse?

 

no, it simply disengages a clutch....unless it doesn't retract all the way I suppose

 

 

Springy....phone home

[Springfield]

44 minutes ago, Dr. Do Itch Big said:

Can a slave cylinder cause a clutch to slip and get continuously worse?

 

What kind of car?

 

And what do you mean by "continuously get worse"?  Over time, or in the course of driving after you start the engine?

[skinfan2k]

so i have been hearing my rear brakes squeal. I go to the places that replaced my pads last time.  Mind you this was only 15k ago, my brakes and rotors need to be replaced already.  The estimate was for $500! 

 

Is that normal?  My first set of rear brakes went 55, this next set not even 15???

[Springfield]

5 hours ago, skinfan2k said:

so i have been hearing my rear brakes squeal. I go to the places that replaced my pads last time.  Mind you this was only 15k ago, my brakes and rotors need to be replaced already.  The estimate was for $500! 

 

Is that normal?  My first set of rear brakes went 55, this next set not even 15???

 

Price seems reasonable.  Not sure about the interval between brake services though.  Seems a bit short for my liking but brake wear is definitely driver dependent, for sure.

[skinfan2k]

Just now, Springfield said:

 

Price seems reasonable.  Not sure about the interval between brake services though.  Seems a bit short for my liking but brake wear is definitely driver dependent, for sure.

 

I agree but how did my first set go 50K and then the next set not even 15k??

[Springfield]

Just now, skinfan2k said:

I agree but how did my first set go 50K and then the next set not even 15k??

 

Crap parts, riding the brakes, improper installation.  Beats me.

 

Were they making noise because they were worn out or because of rust or some other factor?

[skinfan2k]

Just now, Springfield said:

 

Crap parts, riding the brakes, improper installation.  Beats me.

 

Were they making noise because they were worn out or because of rust or some other factor?

 

no idea.  he said the brakes have less than 20%. i know he said he had used some aftermarket brake pad.  

[twa]

might have sticking calipers, rather odd the rear would wear out first

 

this ain't you is it?

 

Edited June 27, 2017 by twa

[Malapropismic Depository]

I know I'll need to take this into a shop for professional repair, and it's probably going to be a major job, but I just wanted to stop here first, to get an opinion on what to expect.

 

I got a really old Dodge Durango with an automatic transmission. Today I start it up, and attempt to shift it into drive, and the shifter just slides through all the gears without that "sense" of engaging, clicking, or locking into each gear. It's like one long smooth motion when I cross through each gear. And as I would expect, when I have the indicator in Drive, it goes nowhere, just revs the engine.

 

Am I likely going to need a new or rebuilt Tranny, or could I be lucky and looking at something less serious ?

Edited July 1, 2017 by Malapropismic Depository

[twa]

I'd guess new or rebuilt, but it could be something simpler such as the sump filter clogged.

 

is the check engine light on?

 

it is going into like neutral?(it will roll)?

if not then shift linkage

Edited July 1, 2017 by twa

[Malapropismic Depository]

2 hours ago, twa said:

I'd guess new or rebuilt, but it could be something simpler such as the sump filter clogged.

 

is the check engine light on?

 

it is going into like neutral?(it will roll)?

if not then shift linkage

 

Engine light is not on.

I shifted into neutral on a seemingly level surface, and it did not roll. However, when I gave it a little push, it rolled, and rolled.

And now, it rolls forward in every single gear, even in reverse.

[twa]

1 hour ago, Malapropismic Depository said:

 

Engine light is not on.

I shifted into neutral on a seemingly level surface, and it did not roll. However, when I gave it a little push, it rolled, and rolled.

And now, it rolls forward in every single gear, even in reverse.

 

so it is not linkage 

no engine light means the sensor is not out

 

has it been shifting strange, hard/late?

unless you get lucky with just a plugged filter or stuck valve body a rebuild is likely

 

ya can try sniffing the dipstick to see if it smells burnt, but a waste of time

add

I'm assuming there is fluid showing on the dipstick and no puddles on the ground

Edited July 2, 2017 by twa

[Springfield]

My first thought was the shifter cable, or rather the bushing that connects the cable to the lever on the transmission.

 

Have it checked out and report back.

[twa]

1 hour ago, Springfield said:

My first thought was the shifter cable, or rather the bushing that connects the cable to the lever on the transmission.

 

Have it checked out and report back.

 

that is certainly common, but he says it rolls when out of park.

 

of course I did not ask if it rolled while in park.

[Springfield]

53 minutes ago, twa said:

 

that is certainly common, but he says it rolls when out of park.

 

of course I did not ask if it rolled while in park.

 

Yeah, that's why I was considering it not being the cable.   However sometimes when the bushing is bad it will catch on the arm at some times and not others, so perhaps it's in neutral.

 

Of course, Chrysler's do have notoriously awful transmissions so anything is possible.

[Malapropismic Depository]

3 hours ago, twa said:

 

so it is not linkage 

no engine light means the sensor is not out

 

has it been shifting strange, hard/late?

unless you get lucky with just a plugged filter or stuck valve body a rebuild is likely

 

ya can try sniffing the dipstick to see if it smells burnt, but a waste of time

add

I'm assuming there is fluid showing on the dipstick and no puddles on the ground

 

As for your question about rolling while parked, I cannot recall for certain now. And I cannot test it now, because it's pressed against a curb now, and can;t be pushed backwards by hand.

 

As far as other issues - I've had it 6 years, and during that time, I did find it was using up fluid, and I'd have to add a quart about every 2 months.

Also....recently, I noticed I was getting that "sliding" effect I described above, but through just one of the gears. And I brushed it off, because it didn't affect the gears I was actually using.

Strange thing is, literally minutes before this "failure", I had just gotten back from taking it across town, and it had no issues with the gears accelerating, etc during that trip.

And coincidentally, as soon as I got back from that trip, I decided to do my routine check of the ATF, and it was less than a quart low on fluid, so I said to myself, "i'll just drive a little bit longer til it needs a full quart. That way I don't overfill it, because I prefer not to use a partial container of fluid."

So, immediately after that trip, and immediately after I checked the fluid and it was reasonably high, is when I attempted to drive it for a 2nd trip and it failed to shift.

I'm thinkin if the whole unit crapped out and I needed a new one, wouldn't I have noticed problems or performance issues while driving it across town right before this episode happened ?
 

Edited July 2, 2017 by Malapropismic Depository

[twa]

trannys are mysterious things.

 

like I said it might just be a plugged filter or stuck valve

 

minor leaks are not unusual but it needs fluid to move,two quarts low and it can behave like yours

 

added

 

NO DRIVE OR REVERSE (VEHICLE WILL NOT MOVE)
1. Fluid Level Low. 1. Add fluid and check for leaks if drive is restored.
2. Gearshift Linkage/Cable Loose/Misadjusted. 2. Inspect, adjust and reassemble linkage as needed. Replace worn/damaged parts.
3. U-Joint/Axle/Transfer Case Broken. 3. Perform preliminary inspection procedure for vehicle that will not move. Refer to procedure in diagnosis section.
4. Filter Plugged. 4. Remove and disassemble transmission. Repair or replace failed components as needed. Replace filter. If filter and fluid contained clutch material or metal particles, an overhaul may be necessary. Perform lube flow test. Flush oil. Replace cooler as necessary.
5. Oil Pump Damaged. 5. Perform pressure test to confirm low pressure. Replace pump body assembly if necessary.
6. Valve Body Malfunctioned. 6. Check and inspect valve body. Replace valve body (as assembly) if any valve or bore is damaged. Clean and reassemble correctly if all parts are in good condition.
7. Transmission Internal Component Damaged. 7. Remove and disassemble transmission. Repair or replace failed components as needed.
8. Park Sprag not Releasing - Check Stall Speed, Worn/Damaged/Stuck. 8. Remove, disassemble, repair.
9. Torque Converter Damage. 9. Inspect and replace as required.

Edited July 2, 2017 by twa