The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread

[Springfield]

1 hour ago, twa said:

new pad is about 10mm isn't lt?

or just over 3/8' for us dinosaurs. 

 

 

 

10-12ish.

 

Dont really measure them new, though.

[Malapropismic Depository]

On 12/15/2017 at 11:34 PM, Springfield said:

What year, make and model?

 

Step one is scanning for codes.  There are dozens of possibilities for what can cause rough running when cold.  It would be very helpful to know what code(s) is set.

 

It took me a while to respond, because I've been tinkering with different things, trying to resolve. Plus it's giving me mixed messages by the light going off for a while, and me thinking it was ok, then it goes back on. And back and forth.

I literally can drive across town, and the Engine Light will be on the whole time, and then return back across town, and the light will go off for the whole time.

The fact that the Check Engine light is sporadic like that - would that narrow down the possibilities of what it could be ?

And is it true, that if I take it somewhere to diagnose the code, that the engine light must be currently lit, for the scanner to be able to diagnose it ?

And to answer your question, it's a '99 Durango.

[Springfield]

6 hours ago, Malapropismic Depository said:

 

It took me a while to respond, because I've been tinkering with different things, trying to resolve. Plus it's giving me mixed messages by the light going off for a while, and me thinking it was ok, then it goes back on. And back and forth.

I literally can drive across town, and the Engine Light will be on the whole time, and then return back across town, and the light will go off for the whole time.

The fact that the Check Engine light is sporadic like that - would that narrow down the possibilities of what it could be ?

And is it true, that if I take it somewhere to diagnose the code, that the engine light must be currently lit, for the scanner to be able to diagnose it ?

And to answer your question, it's a '99 Durango.

 

It just means that your problem is occurring intermittently.  A code will help at least in telling you the area of the vehicle that’s effected.  You may be able to get a history code if the light isn’t on but I can’t guarantee it because Chryslers, especially of that age, can be really stupid with their codes.

[twa]

6 hours ago, Malapropismic Depository said:

 

And to answer your question, it's a '99 Durango.

 

get a can of silicone lubricant and spray the wires and distributor, also soak down all the electrical connections, especially at the computer module)

 

should register a code if light stays on or not, but it is probably a intermittent cylinder misfire

common dodge problem

 

[Malapropismic Depository]

Got a code scanner done, and showed 4 codes (3 almost identical), even though Engine Light wasn't currently lit,

so it must have been able to pick up the history.

 

Obviously, the only difference with first 3, was the Cylinder #, and Code #

P0202 - Injector Circuit Open - Cylinder 2

P0205 - Injector Circuit Open - Cylinder 5

P0206 - Injector Circuit Open - Cylinder 6

P0740 - Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Open

 

So, the first 3 involve fuel injectors, and the last one belongs to transmission, so I guess any of them could contribute

to the symptom of a hesitating engine.

I guess start off with a fuel injector cleaner, and if that doesn't work, I assume the fuel injectors are faulty, and may also

need to get the Trans looked at ?

[twa]

it can be a bad connection ,dodge has issues with the ecm/pcm connections (which is why I suggested the silicone)

 

it could be many things since the codes comes up if the voltage drops or is incorrect

[Springfield]

I doubt fuel cleaner is going to fix it.  It’s an electrical issue with the fuel injectors on cylinders 2, 5 and 6.  Easiest way to diagnose, assuming that you can get to the injector connectors, is to unplug them when the car is running poorly.  One by one, on 2 5 and, unplug them and see if the toughness of the engine changes.  If it changes, then that injector is currently firing.  If the engine doesn’t change, then the injector that you just disconnected isn’t firing.  Then you start there by seeing if that injector has pulse to it (which you probably don’t have tools for).  If it has pulse (and power/ground) then the injector is bad.  If it doesn’t have pulse/power/ground, then the problem is either the wiring for the pcm to the injector or the pcm itself (more likely to be pcm between that or the wiring).  My first thought is your pcm is probably going bad, but someone will need to properly check it out as listed above.

 

That P0740 code probably means that your transmission is going bad.  Sorry about that one.

[Malapropismic Depository]

Oh man, I'm still the last person to ask a question, even though it's been over 2 months ? Now I feel guilty for asking another.

 

A few weeks ago I topped off my Power Steering fluid, and noticed I accidentally overfilled it, but it seemed like a small amount of excess.

Next thing I know I keep losing fluid at a rapid rate, and have to keep adding it every couple days, and that hadn't happened before.

Is it really possible that overfilling PS fluid by an insignificant amount can cause it to burst a leak ?

If overfilling is what caused the leak, could that indicate where the most likely location of the leak is, for example : hose connecting to reservoir, etc ?

[Springfield]

40 minutes ago, Malapropismic Depository said:

Oh man, I'm still the last person to ask a question, even though it's been over 2 months ? Now I feel guilty for asking another.

 

A few weeks ago I topped off my Power Steering fluid, and noticed I accidentally overfilled it, but it seemed like a small amount of excess.

Next thing I know I keep losing fluid at a rapid rate, and have to keep adding it every couple days, and that hadn't happened before.

Is it really possible that overfilling PS fluid by an insignificant amount can cause it to burst a leak ?

If overfilling is what caused the leak, could that indicate where the most likely location of the leak is, for example : hose connecting to reservoir, etc ?

 

Pretty much no.  Overfilling by a small amount isn’t going to cause a massive leak.  The level can go up and down in the reservoir through use, which is why there there is usually a hot/cold full/low mark on the reservoir.

 

Sounds like you have a leak if you need to continually add fluid.

[Malapropismic Depository]

So I got a leak, but the good news it wasn't self-inflicted.

That is of some consolation to me, because of my tendency to beat myself over the head for mistakes.

Thanks for the input.

[Elessar78]

2007 Honda Pilot, wife said it just overheated on the drive home. 

 

It was acting funny this past week and fan was staying on after we shut the car off, which it didn't used to do. Possible problems? Low Coolant? Bad heat sensor? 

 

 

[twa]

13 hours ago, Elessar78 said:

2007 Honda Pilot, wife said it just overheated on the drive home. 

 

It was acting funny this past week and fan was staying on after we shut the car off, which it didn't used to do. Possible problems? Low Coolant? Bad heat sensor? 

 

 

 

checking the coolant would be a good start, heat sensor is working if the gauge and fan are.

usually a leak,water pump or thermostat sticking...but can be something more serious

the fan runs until it cools below a certain temp

 

can be something obstructing airflow through the radiator

[Elessar78]

11 minutes ago, twa said:

 

checking the coolant would be a good start, heat sensor is working if the gauge and fan are.

usually a leak,water pump or thermostat sticking...but can be something more serious

the fan runs until it cools below a certain temp

 

can be something obstructing airflow through the radiator

thanks. I'm thinking it's some kind of leak—coolant was low last night. Then today could smell coolant when I walked in front of the car. 

[Springfield]

15 hours ago, Elessar78 said:

2007 Honda Pilot, wife said it just overheated on the drive home. 

 

It was acting funny this past week and fan was staying on after we shut the car off, which it didn't used to do. Possible problems? Low Coolant? Bad heat sensor? 

 

 

 

Let me/us know what turns up.  I can’t think of a common area of leakage from that motor.  Does sound like a leak from your description though.

[Elessar78]

21 minutes ago, Springfield said:

 

Let me/us know what turns up.  I can’t think of a common area of leakage from that motor.  Does sound like a leak from your description though.

ruh roh. That doesn't sound good. 

[Springfield]

27 minutes ago, Elessar78 said:

ruh roh. That doesn't sound good. 

 

Hopefully it’s something minor. First step is to pressure test the cooling system to see if there is a leak.  If there is, then repair that.  If there isn’t, then it should be checked for proper cooling fan and thermostat operation.  Lastly, checking for a blown head gasket via CO test or cylinder leakage test.

 

Usualy cause is a leak, though.

[twa]

1 hour ago, Elessar78 said:

ruh roh. That doesn't sound good. 

 

He means your engine is well made w/o common defects....generally speaking.

leaking hose is the usual,,

[Springfield]

6 minutes ago, twa said:

 

He means your engine is well made w/o common defects....generally speaking.

leaking hose is the usual,,

 

Yes, correct.

 

Some cars, you say a year/make/model and I can tell you what’s wrong with it before I even look.  Honda Pilot is not one of those cars (for an overheating/coolant leak problem).

[CrypticVillain]

So glad I saw this thread. Need some help with my Equinox and been meaning to ask. 

 

While I'm moving... It's making a noise like the brakes are bad, but when I brake, I don't hear the noise.

 

Also, hopefully unrelated, I hear a noise like it needs some power steering fluid, but I don't even see where to put it. 

[Springfield]

2 minutes ago, CrypticVillain said:

So glad I saw this thread. Need some help with my Equinox and been meaning to ask. 

 

While I'm moving... It's making a noise like the brakes are bad, but when I brake, I don't hear the noise.

 

Also, hopefully unrelated, I hear a noise like it needs some power steering fluid, but I don't even see where to put it. 

 

So does this noise happen, and then go away as soon as you hit the brakes?  High pitched?  If so, possibly a wear sensor on the pads indicating are worn.

 

As far as the PS reservoir, passenger side behind the engine, in between the engine and firewall.  Possibly under the engine cover.  You can give it a google as well.

[Elessar78]

1 hour ago, Springfield said:

 

Yes, correct.

 

Some cars, you say a year/make/model and I can tell you what’s wrong with it before I even look.  Honda Pilot is not one of those cars (for an overheating/coolant leak problem).

You're saying my wife can't break a car?

E's Wife: Hold my beers

[Elessar78]

3 hours ago, Springfield said:

 

Let me/us know what turns up.  I can’t think of a common area of leakage from that motor.  Does sound like a leak from your description though.

So, despite all that the dealership says the radiator is leaking. Quoting $800 for the whole thing. 

 

Seems fishy considering what you said about the Pilots. But it's not out of the realm of possibility. 

[Springfield]

4 minutes ago, Elessar78 said:

So, despite all that the dealership says the radiator is leaking. Quoting $800 for the whole thing. 

 

Seems fishy considering what you said about the Pilots. But it's not out of the realm of possibility. 

 

Radiator seems pretty rational to me.  The $800 price isn’t too bad in my opinion.

[Elessar78]

18 minutes ago, Springfield said:

 

Radiator seems pretty rational to me.  The $800 price isn’t too bad in my opinion.

We are balking at the dealership cost and we're going to take it to a garage her dad uses tomorrow. 

 

The OEM radiator is ~$100 (07 Pilot). Is it really a 9 hour job (@ $75/hour)? I mean they said they could have me driving it home by 3:30 today (that was a t 1:30 PM), so $350 an hour of labor? Sorry, if I'm misunderstanding how this works. 

[Springfield]

35 minutes ago, Elessar78 said:

We are balking at the dealership cost and we're going to take it to a garage her dad uses tomorrow. 

 

The OEM radiator is ~$100 (07 Pilot). Is it really a 9 hour job (@ $75/hour)? I mean they said they could have me driving it home by 3:30 today (that was a t 1:30 PM), so $350 an hour of labor? Sorry, if I'm misunderstanding how this works. 

 

Price can vary by locality.  Here in nova, labor rates are around $100-140.  An OEM radiator is roughly $375.  So for 2.2 hours of labor at $140 is $308.  Add in the $375 radiator, and you’re at $680+.  Then taxes and supplies and all that bs and $800 isn’t a bad deal.  Plus, I assume your paying them something for diagnosing your problem as well.

 

You can get an aftermarket radiator for cheap online, but I wouldn’t use that personally.  Private shops are certainly lower priced and can save money on labor and sometimes part.

 

If you didn’t use a Honda radiator then I’d suggest a high quality replacement from a brand like Denso (which may even be the original supplier for Honda).