The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread

[JamesMadisonSkins]

19 minutes ago, Springfield said:

 

Biggest key is that they encounter the problem.

Ah, good call. I will at the very least video it and show them since I'm dropping it off and presumably, It would start fine for a couple hours. Thanks.

[JamesMadisonSkins]

22 hours ago, Springfield said:

 

Biggest key is that they encounter the problem.

Took a video, showed them. They waited a couple hours to start my car after dropping it off to replicate the issue. Did electrical test, found that the battery had a bad cell. They replaced on warranty, it's ready for pickup. Very relieved, Thanks for the reassurances in here that it wasn't something worse

[Springfield]

Awesome 

[Malapropismic Depository]

This is body-related, but I think that's twa's specialty if I remember correctly.

I was in a minor accident that slightly bent my driver's door, and my repair is not covered by any insurance.

The door bent downward and does not line up properly to close.

I took it to a body shop, and for free, they lined it up successfully so it was close. They used some trick where

place some block in the hinge, and close the door on it, and it automatically bends it back into shape, somewhat.

However, a few days after this, I can tell the door is gradually falling out of alignment, because I am hearing that

thumping sound, and feeling the resistance, when I try to close it.

Is there anything else that can be done to permanently line it up, or am I destined to have to replace the door ?

I will try to post pictures, if that helps.

[twa]

if welded hinges you will need to spring in some manner, if it bolts to the post it can usually be loosened and aligned

 

springing sometimes requires another attempt as the door settles or you can just open the door slightly and squat lift .

I have tools specific to springing doors/hinges.

need to replace depends mainly on whether the mounting area is stress cracked ect

 

[Malapropismic Depository]

On 9/3/2018 at 9:50 PM, twa said:

if welded hinges you will need to spring in some manner, if it bolts to the post it can usually be loosened and aligned

 

springing sometimes requires another attempt as the door settles or you can just open the door slightly and squat lift .

I have tools specific to springing doors/hinges.

need to replace depends mainly on whether the mounting area is stress cracked ect

 

 

I'm not exactly sure where the problem is rooted, or if it's welded or bolted.

I could be in over my head with this, as far as a DIY option.

For that reason, I took it into another body shop today, and he quoted me $100 to realign it, and didn't go into specifics on how he'd do it.

I asked if this was possibly a temporary fix, and he said "There's no guarantees".

So there's risk involved with that.

The other option I'm considering is a door from a junkyard, which would also cost $100, but there's risk that the power windows and power locks

won't work, and if they don't work, I don't think it's returnable.

Both of those options have risks. Which one do you think is the lower risk ?

Or if I could ask another question - if I shop around body shops for more "promising outcomes", are pretty much all of them going to tell me

"There's no guarantees" for this type of repair, like the first guy did ?

[twa]

did you squat lift it? 

you can even use a 2x4 to lever it up, from your description it is simply sagging a bit.(simply open the door slightly and lift/pry  up, usually best to go a little higher than level with the latch bolt)

 

a undamaged part is always preferable, but costly and also must be aligned

 

I offer free touchups on alignment, but I'm unusual....shopping around never hurts

 

 

[Malapropismic Depository]

36 minutes ago, twa said:

did you squat lift it? 

 

 

 

Not yet. Me and a friend did do something similar, using a hydraulic jack to push it up from the bottom.

That helped a little.

Never thought about squatting the Durango though.

I figured I'd need this guy to do something like that

 

 

 

[twa]

I used to lift and wheelbarrow cars

[Elessar78]

Took in my car to get an oil change today after about 3500 miles since last oil change. Tech said that there's barely any oil left and I'm losing oil somewhere. I haven't noticed oil stains on my driveway. Is it time to get a new car?

 

What are the ways oil gets used up in a car that would explain this?

 

2011 Mazda CX7 Turbo 85K miles 

[twa]

barely any is not a good description, was the oil light /engine light on?

 

those have problems with the turbocharger and checking oil levels regularly is recomended

[Springfield]

49 minutes ago, twa said:

 

those have problems with the turbocharger and checking oil levels regularly is recomended

 

This man knows.

[Elessar78]

5 hours ago, twa said:

barely any is not a good description, was the oil light /engine light on?

 

those have problems with the turbocharger and checking oil levels regularly is recomended

 

it had 1/2 quart left. Oil light had not come on and check engine light was not on. 

 

Other than checking oil levels, there's no other fix? Just add more oil if low between oil changes?

[twa]

15 minutes ago, Elessar78 said:

il

it had 1/2 quart left. Oil light had not come on and check engine light was not on. 

 

Other than checking oil levels, there's no other fix? Just add more oil if low between oil changes?

 

certainly another fix,ya need to find out where it is going.

If it is the turbo bad or it's seals, the timing seal ect ect.

 

run it low on oil and it becomes a giant paperweight.

 

Mazda claims you should expect them to consume some oil, so how much oil is missing helps 

 

added

I find it hard to believe it only had a 1/2 quart and ran, much less had no light.

 

 

Edited September 13, 2018 by twa

[Elessar78]

The tech recommended adding 10W-30, a thicker oil, if I have to top it off and to check levels at every fill up. Do you guys concur?

 

[twa]

4 minutes ago, Elessar78 said:

The tech recommended adding 10W-30, a thicker oil, if I have to top it off and to check levels at every fill up. Do you guys concur?

 

 

thicker oil leaks less generally and 10 is still thin, definitely check at fill ups to find out how bad the oil consumption is

 

ya might look into of these if it is not large consumption

https://damondmotorsports.com/products/oil-catch-can-kit-07-12-mazdaspeed-cx-7?variant=723549809

the pcv system on those suck almost as bad as the turbos 

[Elessar78]

22 minutes ago, twa said:

 

22 minutes ago, twa said:

added

I find it hard to believe it only had a 1/2 quart and ran, much less had no light.

 

 

called back and asked tech about this. He said that the a red low pressure light comes on when there is no oil pressure detected. BUT at that point it's "too late". He admitted this was a very dumb feature. 

[twa]

4 minutes ago, Elessar78 said:

called back and asked tech about this. He said that the a red low pressure light comes on when there is no oil pressure detected. BUT at that point it's "too late". He admitted this was a very dumb feature. 

 

they will usually come on at idle if very low and the engine light should as well if it is consuming that much oil

 

I think he exaggerated the 1/2 quart but maybe Mazdas are magic

 

was it smoking out the exhaust? 

[Elessar78]

1 minute ago, twa said:

was it smoking out the exhaust? 

No nothing that I noticed. Ugh. 

 

I guess I just have to vigilant and watch that oil. Are you reading something on this? Care to share?

[twa]

8 minutes ago, Elessar78 said:

No nothing that I noticed. Ugh. 

 

I guess I just have to vigilant and watch that oil. Are you reading something on this? Care to share?

 

if not smoking the leak/consumption is probably not bad

 

There are a ton of forums, just google the type vehicle and problem

 

www.mazdaspeedforums.org

Edited September 13, 2018 by twa

[Springfield]

I would fill it with the correct viscosity oil from here on and then monitor how quickly it uses oil.  

 

If it isn’t leaking externally then there’s a very good chance that a seal in the turbo is leaking internally and allowing oil to be burned through the combustion chamber.  That’s a very common problem.

 

I would advise against using a thicker oil.

[skinsmarydu]

On 9/3/2018 at 9:50 PM, twa said:

if welded hinges you will need to spring in some manner, if it bolts to the post it can usually be loosened and aligned

 

springing sometimes requires another attempt as the door settles or you can just open the door slightly and squat lift .

I have tools specific to springing doors/hinges.

need to replace depends mainly on whether the mounting area is stress cracked ect

 

I have the same issues with my MC. (Lots of pine straw settles in the door jamb). Hubby keeps it cleaned out, mechanic lubes it about once a year. (It has springs).

[Elessar78]

12 hours ago, Springfield said:

I would fill it with the correct viscosity oil from here on and then monitor how quickly it uses oil.  

 

If it isn’t leaking externally then there’s a very good chance that a seal in the turbo is leaking internally and allowing oil to be burned through the combustion chamber.  That’s a very common problem.

 

I would advise against using a thicker oil.

What would it take to diagnose this internal leak? Worth the $$ or not?

[Springfield]

1 hour ago, Elessar78 said:

What would it take to diagnose this internal leak? Worth the $$ or not?

 

You can pull apart the tubing from the turbo to the throttle and see if there is oil contamination.  That’s the easiest way.

 

But before doing even that, I’d get a baseline.  With the correct oil, monitor over the next few weeks and months to find out how quickly it’s consumed.

 

* All this assumes that it isn’t leaking externally

[Elessar78]

1 hour ago, Springfield said:

 

You can pull apart the tubing from the turbo to the throttle and see if there is oil contamination.  That’s the easiest way.

 

But before doing even that, I’d get a baseline.  With the correct oil, monitor over the next few weeks and months to find out how quickly it’s consumed.

 

* All this assumes that it isn’t leaking externally

I've been checking my garage at home and my usual spot at work, not a drop of residue. I'll keep watching.

 

Thanks. I'll monitor. Early today I recalled another incident about a year or two ago, got the oil changed and the tech said that the oil was really low. I had it done at Wal-mart and just assumed that they didn't put in as much as was required. Maybe I was burning oil then too. Good thing I've been good at keeping to the 3K miles intervals. 

 

Any benefit to using synthetic vs dino oil? I think right now it's a  blend that the dealership uses.

 

When I asked the tech yesterday he said 5W-20, but I looked online and it says SAE 0W-20

Edited September 14, 2018 by Elessar78