Springfield

The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread

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I'm sure I've answered this question in this thread at some point in time. I'm at a private shop and I am all for the transmission flush.

So in summary, I favor the flush 100%. Hope that sums it up for you a little bit.

Thank You. Guess I'll go with the Flush every 30,000 miles.:notworthy

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I've heard of them. I haven't really seen any "real world" justification that they are any better than the plugs that came in your car originally. The way that they are "supposed" to work is to store energy in the plug to provide a higher spark output. This will then, in theory, provide more complete combustion and thus lower emissions and higher power.

The problem I see here is this... If the ignition system on your vehicle (or a large majority of vehicles out there today) is working properly, then there is already complete combustion and peak power is already realized.

I would hazard to guess that 90% of the vehicles out there would not benefit (or benefit marginally) from these types of spark plugs.

Thanks for the feedback. That's what I've been thinking.

Still, there are those dyno results. Even one on video on Horsepower TV. (I know shows like that shill parts but it would be pretty messed up if they fixed the test.

Oh well. I'm not in a rush. I'll keep waiting for more proof.

Oh, and a general thanks for taking the time out to answer all of these questions from everyone. :cheers:

Edited by Mad Mike

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I've heard of them. I haven't really seen any "real world" justification that they are any better than the plugs that came in your car originally. The way that they are "supposed" to work is to store energy in the plug to provide a higher spark output. This will then, in theory, provide more complete combustion and thus lower emissions and higher power.

The problem I see here is this... If the ignition system on your vehicle (or a large majority of vehicles out there today) is working properly, then there is already complete combustion and peak power is already realized.

I would hazard to guess that 90% of the vehicles out there would not benefit (or benefit marginally) from these types of spark plugs.

But there is not complete combustion and a significant percentage is wasted and must be burned off in the catalytic system.

I think the fancy spark plug claims are overstated, but there is gain possible....probably not worth the expense though.

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I heard twa sprouts a tail at night and hunts chickens and cows.

Don't care for chickens nor fish;)

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But there is not complete combustion and a significant percentage is wasted and must be burned off in the catalytic system.

I think the fancy spark plug claims are overstated, but there is gain possible....probably not worth the expense though.

I would have to disagree with you.

In most modern ignition systems (distributorless and coil over plug) the combustion is indeed complete. There is almost no air/fuel mixture wasted. Distributor type ignitions, I could certainly agree. Coil over plug ignition systems though, provide the greatest amperage to the plug possible. The implimentation of coil over plug ignition systems into cars explains the number of LEV (low emissions vehicles) and ULEV (ultra low emissions vehicles) on the roads today. The powerful spark provided by coil over plug design burns the hydrocarbons almost completely. The only thing that this creates is increased NoX (Nitrates of Oxygen) due to higher combustion temperatures. That is what the catalytic converter is mainly there for on modern cars, to eliminate NoX.

Now as far as those spark plugs. Sure you can gain horsepower, but 1 or 2 maybe? Nothing that you could actually feel.

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Now as far as those spark plugs. Sure you can gain horsepower, but 1 or 2 maybe? Nothing that you could actually feel.

Heh, funny thing though is I'm looking at those couple of HP and thinking that if I add them to the 9 claimed by the cold air kit and and maybe a couple more from a performance muffler....

See, the problem is that my Z4 is almost maxed out for performance from the factory and I'm trying to squeak out what I can to get it's 2.5 liter as close as possible to the faster 3.0 and hopefully gain a little mpg to boot.

Going on claims:

Cold air kit / 9.5 HP @ $350 - about $39 per HP

Pulstar plugs / 9 hp (peak) @ $150 - about $17 per HP

$500 for a grand total of 18 HP. :thud:

Base 2.5 - 184 hp

Base 3.0 - 225 hp

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I would have to disagree with you.

Now as far as those spark plugs. Sure you can gain horsepower, but 1 or 2 maybe? Nothing that you could actually feel.

Don't make me disagree again;)...That's one

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Heh, funny thing though is I'm looking at those couple of HP and thinking that if I add them to the 9 claimed by the cold air kit and and maybe a couple more from a performance muffler....

See, the problem is that my Z4 is almost maxed out for performance from the factory and I'm trying to squeak out what I can to get it's 2.5 liter as close as possible to the faster 3.0 and hopefully gain a little mpg to boot.

Going on claims:

Cold air kit / 9.5 HP @ $350 - about $39 per HP

Pulstar plugs / 9 hp (peak) @ $150 - about $17 per HP

$500 for a grand total of 18 HP. :thud:

Base 2.5 - 184 hp

Base 3.0 - 225 hp

Performance modifications are expensive. It can also be addictive. You spend that $500 to get the extra 10 hp. You can certainly notice a difference when you mash the gas after you get that extra 10 hp. The problem with that though is that you get used to the extra 10 hp. So gues what? You need another 10 hp so you slap on a cat-back exhaust system. You get bored with that additional 10 hp (total 20 hp over stock) and go for more power.

Soon enough, you find yourself invested hundreds if not thousands into your car that is only worth a fraction of what you paid for it. It is addictive and expensive.

Not that I'm speaking from experience or anything.:)

(Oh and in my opinion... best bang for the buck... forced induction)

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Don't make me disagree again;)...That's one

I see what you did there... I can dig it. :)

I think of it like this when talking about those spark plugs:

The performance difference between the pulstar plugs and standard spark plugs would be similar to the performance difference between worn (but not quite misfiring yet) and brand new spark plugs.

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I have a random, maybe even pointless, question. I have a Plymouth Acclaim, V6 3.0 L, and I was looking to add a Flow Master Muffler to it. I've heard dual exhaust is pointless for a V6, especially with the way my exhaust is, but would adding the muffler give me any more horse power as advertised? I guess you could say I'm looking for the deep rumbling sound out of it too, anything there?

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I have a random, maybe even pointless, question. I have a Plymouth Acclaim, V6 3.0 L, and I was looking to add a Flow Master Muffler to it. I've heard dual exhaust is pointless for a V6, especially with the way my exhaust is, but would adding the muffler give me any more horse power as advertised? I guess you could say I'm looking for the deep rumbling sound out of it too, anything there?

You could certainly gain horsepower by adding a muffler, I just don't know how much. The stock muffler is almost certainly a restriction in the exhaust. By replacing the muffler you'll let the exhaust escape faster and thus allow more air/fuel mixture to enter the combustion chamber.

Yes, a dual muffler setup would probably be too much, I highly doubt you need that much exhaust flow. As far as the sound, I'm sure it would be louder but I doubt it will be the deep rumble that you would expect. I'll put it to you like this, it won't sound like a Mustang with dual exhaust. It will probably sound like a louder and deeper version of you current exhaust tone.

So yes, you can gain power by adding a muffler. Will it be much? Probably not. Will it sound super cool? Probably not.

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I have a problem that I need assistance with as soon as possible.

Ok, I got my 2006 Nissan Altima a year ago or so. And the problem that I am experiencing since I purchased this car is that sometimes when I get in the car and I turn the ignition I get a hard zing like sound. Its the same sound you hear when you try turn the key in your ignition when the car is already running.Well this happens very randomly. It always eventually starts up. Sometime I'll get that zing, and then I turn my key seconds later and it starts up. And sometimes it takes me waiting for about 30 seconds 3-5 different times before it starts. I even watch the way I turn the key, I make sure that I dont turn it too hard or soft, and the problem still exist. I took my car to the my dealership, and they told me they could not see what the problem is because they started my engine over 30 times and it started up fine. Can someone PLEASE help me out, cause I'm not sure what I can do, since I took it to my dealership and they were no help. Can someone tell me what could be cause to do this and what I should do to get it taking care of. Any assistance is very much appreciated.....

Itz gotten to the point that if Im out somewhere and I see a hot chick, Im scared to try to start my car cause Im scared Im going to get that hard zing and the chickz gonna look at me like I have a piece of junk.

Edited by REDSKINZ-RIDEORDIE

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Sounds like the starter bendix is bad/out of align, but could be a bad spot in the teeth on the flywheel.(which only effects it when it is in that certain spot)

the bendix gear shoots out and meshes with the flywheel teeth,sounds bad when they don't mesh or out of alignment.

As far as the dealer, it is hard to diagnose problems that are not evident or be replicated....BUT it sounds like they are not looking to hard;)

Perhaps a video with sound and making some noise of your own will convince them to get off their ass and check it out properly....or find another dealer.

ps: the speed you turn the key has no effect

Edited by twa

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Performance modifications are expensive. It can also be addictive. You spend that $500 to get the extra 10 hp. You can certainly notice a difference when you mash the gas after you get that extra 10 hp. The problem with that though is that you get used to the extra 10 hp. So gues what? You need another 10 hp so you slap on a cat-back exhaust system. You get bored with that additional 10 hp (total 20 hp over stock) and go for more power.

Soon enough, you find yourself invested hundreds if not thousands into your car that is only worth a fraction of what you paid for it. It is addictive and expensive.

Not that I'm speaking from experience or anything.:)

(Oh and in my opinion... best bang for the buck... forced induction)

Yeah, I know. The thing is that my car is already "RPM fast" and I really would be pretty satisfied with just a little more oomph. It really is an amazing car as it is now.

As for the value, I got it way under its market value and with the type of car it is, it is only going down but so much. Well worth putting $500-$1000 into. No more than that though. If it comes to that, I would trade it in on a tire smoking Z4M if I can find a used one one day.

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Sounds like the starter bendix is bad/out of align, but could be a bad spot in the teeth on the flywheel.(which only effects it when it is in that certain spot)

the bendix gear shoots out and meshes with the flywheel teeth,sounds bad when they don't mesh or out of alignment.

As far as the dealer, it is hard to diagnose problems that are not evident or be replicated....BUT it sounds like they are not looking to hard;)

Perhaps a video with sound and making some noise of your own will convince them to get off their ass and check it out properly....or find another dealer.

ps: the speed you turn the key has no effect

:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy

Thank you so very much. I was thinking that my dealership could put in a much better effort as well. And I KNEW the way I was turning my key had nothing to do with the problem. Someone was trying to tell me that I may be turning the key too hard. Thanks for confirming that. Thanks a million TWA, you really helped me out just now, I wrote down your response and Im going to get this taken care of ASAP. :cheers:

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I'd bet that your alternator is starting to fail, especially when cold. Did you test the alternator when it was cold and the light was on?

No - unfortunately the light wasn't on when the alternator was checked. Thanks for the info though.

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I have a problem that I need assistance with as soon as possible.

Ok, I got my 2006 Nissan Altima a year ago or so. And the problem that I am experiencing since I purchased this car is that sometimes when I get in the car and I turn the ignition I get a hard zing like sound. Its the same sound you hear when you try turn the key in your ignition when the car is already running.Well this happens very randomly. It always eventually starts up. Sometime I'll get that zing, and then I turn my key seconds later and it starts up. And sometimes it takes me waiting for about 30 seconds 3-5 different times before it starts. I even watch the way I turn the key, I make sure that I dont turn it too hard or soft, and the problem still exist. I took my car to the my dealership, and they told me they could not see what the problem is because they started my engine over 30 times and it started up fine. Can someone PLEASE help me out, cause I'm not sure what I can do, since I took it to my dealership and they were no help. Can someone tell me what could be cause to do this and what I should do to get it taking care of. Any assistance is very much appreciated.....

Itz gotten to the point that if Im out somewhere and I see a hot chick, Im scared to try to start my car cause Im scared Im going to get that hard zing and the chickz gonna look at me like I have a piece of junk.

Sounds like the starter bendix is bad/out of align, but could be a bad spot in the teeth on the flywheel.(which only effects it when it is in that certain spot)

the bendix gear shoots out and meshes with the flywheel teeth,sounds bad when they don't mesh or out of alignment.

As far as the dealer, it is hard to diagnose problems that are not evident or be replicated....BUT it sounds like they are not looking to hard;)

Perhaps a video with sound and making some noise of your own will convince them to get off their ass and check it out properly....or find another dealer.

ps: the speed you turn the key has no effect

:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy

Thank you so very much. I was thinking that my dealership could put in a much better effort as well. And I KNEW the way I was turning my key had nothing to do with the problem. Someone was trying to tell me that I may be turning the key too hard. Thanks for confirming that. Thanks a million TWA, you really helped me out just now, I wrote down your response and Im going to get this taken care of ASAP. :cheers:

I agree with twa completely. :)

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No - unfortunately the light wasn't on when the alternator was checked. Thanks for the info though.

That's probably why it checked out OK. I would suspect that if the light were on, you would find that the alternator wasn't charging at approx. 14 volts like it should. Unfortunately this is one of those cases where "time will tell" and you don't wan't time to tell when dealing with an alternator problem.

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I have an '04 Hemi Dodge Ram (2WD) with 3.55 gears. I want a little more low-end power, so I was thinking on getting a set of 4.56s. Would that be a good idea?

I'm not super well versed gearing and how everything will change with it (or at least to what severity). I do know that you will have more low end power and torque but you will sacrifice the top end/top speed. A 4.56 is quite a step up from a 3.55 though, I do know that. It would probably be a very large difference, not the "little more" that you are looking for.

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Hey, great thread. I have a quick question for you here.

My Volvo just got its VA inspection and it needs new wiper blades and front brake pads. Not new rotors or anything like that.

The guy just quoted me 180 for the inspection, blades, and pads- it sounds a little on the high side to me but I'm not sure. Any thoughts?

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in a 97 corrolla, how hard is it to change the steering fluid reservoir, or maybe the seal beneath it? Mine has a leak.

~Bang

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That's probably why it checked out OK. I would suspect that if the light were on, you would find that the alternator wasn't charging at approx. 14 volts like it should. Unfortunately this is one of those cases where "time will tell" and you don't wan't time to tell when dealing with an alternator problem.

Ghosts like the radio turning off and on and the transmission downshifting and only allowing it to go at 1 speed for limited times forced me into the dealership. It was indeed a bad alternator and unfortunately the battery got zapped making up for it too.

Problem fixed now - thanks for your assistance.

Edited by The Evil Genius

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I have an '04 Hemi Dodge Ram (2WD) with 3.55 gears. I want a little more low-end power, so I was thinking on getting a set of 4.56s. Would that be a good idea?

Only if you plan on taking it drag racing or stump pulling and never want to drive on a highway ever again. :D

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