The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread

[BayouBrave86]

Found out I have a radiator leak in my Jeep today. Going to cost me around 300 to get it fixed. My question is, can I drive it until I can pay to get it fixed later this week? The mechanic put a jug of water basically into it to keep it going so I could drive home from the repair shop. Could I keep putting water by the jugs in my radiator until Friday, when I can pay to have it fixed, or should I just not drive at all?

[twa]

Found out I have a radiator leak in my Jeep today. Going to cost me around 300 to get it fixed. My question is, can I drive it until I can pay to get it fixed later this week? The mechanic put a jug of water basically into it to keep it going so I could drive home from the repair shop. Could I keep putting water by the jugs in my radiator until Friday, when I can pay to have it fixed, or should I just not drive at all?

As long as you can keep water in it it is alright,but you run the risk of getting stranded or damaging the engine if it overheats.

Really depends on how bad it is leaking and how long the drive.

My truck had a leak for a yr,but I typically only drive a few miles

ps: leaking antifreeze is highly poisonous to animals which will drink it.

http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/antifreeze.html

[BayouBrave86]

Appreciate the advice. Yeah I took it to a repair shop by campus and just decided to leave my car parked on campus so I didn't have to drive all the way home and then drive back to the shop later this week. I'll consider driving it this week, depends on how frustrated I get before Friday not being able to drive and how long I can ask friends to drive me around until they get pissed off haha.

[Buford T. Justice]

Most likely yes. On most brake pads there is a "wear sensor". This wear sensor is a metal bracket that hangs off of the backing of the brake pad. This metal bracket will touch the brake rotor and make an annoying screeching noise when the pads wear thin enough. The wear sensor will make that noise untill you hit the brakes when the wear sensor digs in deep enough that the noise goes away....

I forgot to say thanks. I ended up changing the pads the weekend of that post. You were completely correct. I immediately saw the "polished" contact point on the bracket.

[grhqofb5]

I drive a stick shift ford explorer. About 3 years ago, I had the master cylinder and the slave cylinder replaced for the clutch. Over the last few weeks, it's been more difficult to put the thing into 1st gear from neutral. Does this mean that I may have to get a new clutch pretty soon?

[Leonard Washington]

I drive a stick shift ford explorer. About 3 years ago, I had the master cylinder and the slave cylinder replaced for the clutch. Over the last few weeks, it's been more difficult to put the thing into 1st gear from neutral. Does this mean that I may have to get a new clutch pretty soon?

I would guess the shift linkage needs adjusting or the synchro is bad but I'm no mechanic.

[Springfield]

I drive a stick shift ford explorer. About 3 years ago, I had the master cylinder and the slave cylinder replaced for the clutch. Over the last few weeks, it's been more difficult to put the thing into 1st gear from neutral. Does this mean that I may have to get a new clutch pretty soon?

I missed this one. I don't know how long ago this question was posted, sorry if this response is very, very late.

First I'll explain explain the clutch setup as it pertains to you're question and how it works. The clutch is the interface between the engine (which makes the power) and the transmission (which transmits, along with other parts, the power to the wheels). When you press the clutch pedal the clutch releases it's engagement, in essence disengaging the transmission from the engine.

There are two different types of set ups when it comes to clutch control. There is a hydraulic operated clutch and a cable operated clutch. One uses hydraulic fluid (actually brake fluid) to release the clutch when you press the pedal. The cable setup uses a cable to release the clutch, which your truck doesn't have.

As it pertains to your situation, there are a few possibilities. The synchronizer for first gear may be going bad. The shifter or shifter bushings may be failing. The clutch may be going bad. The hydraulic clutch lines may be leaking.

My first thought is synchronizer. It is probably the most likely failure given your description and probably the most expensive. Repairing the synchronizers requires removal of the transmission and disassembly. It may serve you better to try changing the fluid in the transmission. If it doesn't work, there's not much money wasted comparatively. If the synchronizer is failed, I would really recommend replacing the whole transmission with a remanufactured unit.

Second thought is the shifter and/or bushings. I'm honestly not too sure if there are any bushings to wear out because there just aren't many manual transmission Explorers on the road. It certainly could be a bushing that's worn or a shifter, going into the transmission, that has too much play. That would be a less expensive repair.

Third, clutch may be failing. I doubt this though, because it would usually be hard to shift in all gears. When the clutch fails in this manner though, it is because it doesn't release all the way making it harder to shift into gear. That's also why I say it isn't likely, because it isn't happening in all gears.

Lastly, the master cylinder or slave cylinder you had replaced some years ago could be leaking. You should be able to check your master cylinder to see if the level is full. This would also usually be accompanied by a softer clutch pedal feel. This one is also not very likely, but certainly possible.

In summary... You need to take it to a respectable shop that can inspect an properly diagnose all of the above. There are a few things you can do in the time being if you have a little know how and a desire to get your hands dirty (or not have a broken vehicle). It sounds to me that the likely cause is the synchronizer for first gear.

Once again, sorry for taking so long to reply.

[Mickalino]

Have this problem that only occurs at specific times - after driving over an hour, high-speed on the freeway.

Whenever I drive about 70mph or higher constantly for about an hour, all of sudden I feel a downshift in the engine speed. I can't tell if it's the transmission or the engine failing, but as soon as I feel that shift, the car starts to slow down and lose power. I start to give it gas, but instead of accelerating, it gradually slows down. It feels like it is eventually going to stall completely, but it doesn't. Once it gets down to about 55 or 60, it stops slowing down - however I can't speed up at that point, either. It's stuck at that speed until I stop the car and let it sit for a while.

It doesn't happen in city driving or short-term driving, but only in the scenario I mentioned, and it happens every time in that scenario.

It's scaring me because I have to make about a 2 hour drive, about twice a week to go see a specialist doctor, and I'm wondering if it will eventually fail completely.

Anybody got a clue what it could be ?

[Mickalino]

Someone rename this thread : "Wake Up The Mechanic" thread

[Springfield]

Have this problem that only occurs at specific times - after driving over an hour, high-speed on the freeway.

Whenever I drive about 70mph or higher constantly for about an hour, all of sudden I feel a downshift in the engine speed. I can't tell if it's the transmission or the engine failing, but as soon as I feel that shift, the car starts to slow down and lose power. I start to give it gas, but instead of accelerating, it gradually slows down. It feels like it is eventually going to stall completely, but it doesn't. Once it gets down to about 55 or 60, it stops slowing down - however I can't speed up at that point, either. It's stuck at that speed until I stop the car and let it sit for a while.

It doesn't happen in city driving or short-term driving, but only in the scenario I mentioned, and it happens every time in that scenario.

It's scaring me because I have to make about a 2 hour drive, about twice a week to go see a specialist doctor, and I'm wondering if it will eventually fail completely.

Anybody got a clue what it could be ?

What kind of car is it? That could dramatically change how my opinion is formed. Year, make and model please.

My first two thoughts are transmission and fuel pump. When you get back to me, I'll offer up a little more explanation. Sorry for falling asleep, watching football all day wears me out.

[grhqofb5]

Thanks for you advice and the thoughtful reply.

[SkinsTerps26]

how long can i drive my car with a hole in the exhaust before i need to do something about it

:doh:

[zoony]

okay, my pos Trailblazer (2006, only 60k miles, falling apart, complete piece of ****, don't buy GM) is making a high pitched whine. It's getting worse and worse. It goes up and down with the rpm of the engine. Doesn't sound like a belt. It's really loud, you can hear it from inside. Really freaking obnoxious too

I turn the car in in 5k but I'm thinking about taking it in anyways, it might be serious. Any thoughts?

Seriously, this car is a piece of ****. I would be sick if I paid money for this automobile. Center console is broken, steering wheel is coming unwrapped, engine knocks like crazy, upholstrey is ****, etc.

....

Edited September 9, 2008 by zoony

[Springfield]

how long can i drive my car with a hole in the exhaust before i need to do something about it

:doh:

Well, seeing that you live in FL and knowing that they don't have any inspections there (or so I think), you can probably drive it until the thing starts dragging on the ground.

After the catalytic converter, the only point of the exhaust is to make it quiet. You can certainly lose power from a hole in the exhaust (a very marginal amount) and it certainly is annoying as hell, but you probably won't have any other performance or safety concerns.

I don't advocate driving around with a noisy exhaust because it's annoying and easily fixable (all things considered). I would honestly get it fixed when your pocketbook can handle it. A hole in the exhaust usually is loud and annoying long before it becomes a safety hazard (i.e.: dragging on the ground).

[Koolblue13]

okay, my pos Trailblazer (2006, only 60k miles, falling apart, complete piece of ****, don't buy GM) is making a high pitched whine. It's getting worse and worse. It goes up and down with the rpm of the engine. Doesn't sound like a belt. It's really loud, you can hear it from inside. Really freaking obnoxious too

I turn the car in in 5k but I'm thinking about taking it in anyways, it might be serious. Any thoughts?

Seriously, this car is a piece of ****. I would be sick if I paid money for this automobile. Center console is broken, steering wheel is coming unwrapped, engine knocks like crazy, upholstrey is ****, etc.

....

That's a shame, because the older models are all fantastic. 4.3L Auto, lasts forever, good power and fuel mileage.

[Koolblue13]

SS, my girlfriends 86' Cherokee 4.0L, 5 spd will not start after a short trip when turned off.

It has spark and fuel whenever I get to look at it after it happens like it knows I'm coming.

My first thought is fuel filter, but maybe just rust in the tank.

It happens more frequently when the gas tank is low.

[zoony]

SS, my girlfriends 86' Cherokee 4.0L, 5 spd will not start after a short trip when turned off.

It has spark and fuel whenever I get to look at it after it happens like it knows I'm coming.

My first thought is fuel filter, but maybe just rust in the tank.

It happens more frequently when the gas tank is low.

I'm gonna say.... leaking injector!!!!!

I betcha a beer

Actually, I had this same problem on my 911. Wouldn't start when it was warm. Turned out to be the fuel pump. This was after I replaced almost the entire fuel system. Who knew a fuel pump could only work halfway? I always thought it was all or nothing. :whoknows: Turns out my car used a different fuel filter because it is a European model -vs- the US model.

Who knows that could be it with yours too considering it does it more on an empty tank... meaning less pressure.

Edited September 9, 2008 by zoony

[Koolblue13]

I'm gonna say.... leaking injector!!!!!

I betcha a beer

Damn, really?

I didn't even think of that.

Why do you say that?

[zoony]

Damn, really?

I didn't even think of that.

Why do you say that?

pretty common problem... injector continues to leak fuel into the cylinder when warm... causing the engine to flood and not want to start.

However if the car sits there long enough it will start when the engine cools down.

(also, check edit above)

Edited September 9, 2008 by zoony

[Springfield]

okay, my pos Trailblazer (2006, only 60k miles, falling apart, complete piece of ****, don't buy GM) is making a high pitched whine. It's getting worse and worse. It goes up and down with the rpm of the engine. Doesn't sound like a belt. It's really loud, you can hear it from inside. Really freaking obnoxious too

I turn the car in in 5k but I'm thinking about taking it in anyways, it might be serious. Any thoughts?

Seriously, this car is a piece of ****. I would be sick if I paid money for this automobile. Center console is broken, steering wheel is coming unwrapped, engine knocks like crazy, upholstrey is ****, etc.

....

I actually like the Trailblazer to be honest with you, but different experiences leave different impressions on people.

I have a couple of opinions and a couple of questions...

First thought. AC compressor locking up and whining. Does it make the noise with the AC on only? If it does, this is the likely answer. If it makes the noise when the AC and heat off, it's probably not the compressor.

Second thought. Power steering fluid low and whining. If the power steering fluid is low (likely because of a leak), the power steering will whine but usually it changes pitch when you turn the steering wheel (not only when you rev the engine).

Third thought. Transmission bearing whine. Does it whine when you are sitting still in park and rev the engine? If it does, I'd rule out the transmission. If it doesn't, transmission would be one of the possibilities.

Fourth though. Idler pulley (for serpentine belt) bearing going bad and whining. This would make noise when stopped or driving and could sometimes make noise with the AC on only (or AC off only depending on the load on the engine).

A little more description about when it makes the noise would be helpful but those are the few possibilities that come to mind at first thought (and second and third and fourth).

[zoony]

I actually like the Trailblazer to be honest with you, but different experiences leave different impressions on people.

I have a couple of opinions and a couple of questions...

First thought. AC compressor locking up and whining. Does it make the noise with the AC on only? If it does, this is the likely answer. If it makes the noise when the AC and heat off, it's probably not the compressor.

great minds think alike one of the first things I checked, unfortunately whine occurs independent of AC

Second thought. Power steering fluid low and whining. If the power steering fluid is low (likely because of a leak), the power steering will whine but usually it changes pitch when you turn the steering wheel (not only when you rev the engine).

More great minds

Not it either, unfortunately.

Third thought. Transmission bearing whine. Does it whine when you are sitting still in park and rev the engine? If it does, I'd rule out the transmission. If it doesn't, transmission would be one of the possibilities.

Yah, it's not the tranny I don't think. It does it in park or neutral... constant from when I first start the engine.

Fourth though. Idler pulley (for serpentine belt) bearing going bad and whining. This would make noise when stopped or driving and could sometimes make noise with the AC on only (or AC off only depending on the load on the engine).

hmmmm... I couldn't rule that out. However it doesn't sound like a metal on metal kind of whine.

It's more of an electronic whine, if that makes sense. I'm trying to think of what to compare it to... it's just an extremely loud hi-pitched whine that goes up and down in pitch and volume with the throttle. I've turned off / on every accessory on the car with no luck. I've tried every gear, turning the wheel, brakes, etc.

Maybe it's the alternator? :whoknows:

[Springfield]

SS, my girlfriends 86' Cherokee 4.0L, 5 spd will not start after a short trip when turned off.

It has spark and fuel whenever I get to look at it after it happens like it knows I'm coming.

My first thought is fuel filter, but maybe just rust in the tank.

It happens more frequently when the gas tank is low.

I ask this because it's an '86, but is it carburated or fuel injected (TBI)?

If it's carburated, I'm sorry but I probably wouldn't be most suited to help you. I know a lot about the new school, very little old school.

If it's TBI, I'd agree with zoony about the fuel injector. That or the fuel pump. If it's fuel injected, there's probably a service port where you can check fuel pressure. If the fuel pressure is low (don't know the exact spec, but I'd guess at least 30-40 psi), than the fuel pump is the culprit. If the fuel pressure is normal, I'd go after the injector.

[Koolblue13]

Could it be the ground? Where is the sound coming from?

[Springfield]

Maybe it's the alternator? :whoknows:

That's another one I forgot to think about. Also, does the trailblazer have and electric fan or a fan clutch? Possible that the fan clutch is slipping if it has one.

You could use the ol' technicians stethoscope (a very long flat head screwdriver) to listen for the noise as well. There is always some non moving part of every pulley that you can listen through the screwdriver to.

[Koolblue13]

I ask this because it's an '86, but is it carburated or fuel injected (TBI)?

If it's carburated, I'm sorry but I probably wouldn't be most suited to help you. I know a lot about the new school, very little old school.

If it's TBI, I'd agree with zoony about the fuel injector. That or the fuel pump. If it's fuel injected, there's probably a service port where you can check fuel pressure. If the fuel pressure is low (don't know the exact spec, but I'd guess at least 30-40 psi), than the fuel pump is the culprit. If the fuel pressure is normal, I'd go after the injector.

Injected unfortunately for me, I get the old stuff.

I'll check the injector out.

How do I tell which one needs replacing?