motorhead Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 how hard is it to change them out? Not hard on a Chevy.They might around $60.00 each. They do make a special wrench for them.( With 180K them might be tight.Spray a little Wd-40 on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Will take a look at it this afternoon and see. Make sure to check the connection to the sensor on the master cylinder Mike,they are fairly easy(unplug,screw out),but some require a special socket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimm Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 I got a 2003 GMC pickup, the battery died and I switched it out and now its stalling when I brake, the RPM just down and it dies, but starts right back up again fine, any idea what that could be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 I got a 2003 GMC pickup, the battery died and I switched it out and now its stalling when I brake, the RPM just down and it dies, but starts right back up again fine, any idea what that could be? Not really,the computer does default back to base settings when power is disconnected,but that should not be a issue. Any corrosion on the cables?..that can cause gremlins;) The problem could be the throttle body sensor,ect,but no reason changing a battery would harm it unless ya crossed the cables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattFancy Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 how hard is it to fix a seat? my passenger's seat is broke and doesn't stay in place. when ever i hit the brakes the seat moves forward and when i accelerate it goes backwards (kind of fun watching whoever is in it though). so how hard is it to fix on my own or should i take it somewhere to get fixed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorhead Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 I got a 2003 GMC pickup, the battery died and I switched it out and now its stalling when I brake, the RPM just down and it dies, but starts right back up again fine, any idea what that could be? Does it idle ok? Might be a vacuum line problem.? I don't think it has any think to do with your battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolblue13 Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 how hard is it to fix a seat? my passenger's seat is broke and doesn't stay in place. when ever i hit the brakes the seat moves forward and when i accelerate it goes backwards (kind of fun watching whoever is in it though). so how hard is it to fix on my own or should i take it somewhere to get fixed?Year, Make and Model? Several sensors could be at fault,might even just be a o2 sensor,but hard to say w/o a scan That would be my guess. On a 94' , isn't there 2 on the valve covers?Yept most likely o2 sensor. I think your truck has 2. You need put it on an analyzer to know for sure. Make sure to check the connection to the sensor on the master cylinder Check the wires going into the ABS unit also. I know on Fords, they like to rot. Don't know about chevy's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 my passenger's seat is broke and doesn't stay in place. when ever i hit the brakes the seat moves forward and when i accelerate it goes backwards (kind of fun watching whoever is in it though). OLS ,I'll bet:silly: Two door? You will need to unbolt the seat and look to see if the catches are jammed/rusted and if so clean and oil them. On a two door there is usually another release cable and arm(connected to the seat back )aside from the two on the bottom rails. not hard to look at and a lot of times the arm is just stuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorhead Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Year, Make and Model?That would be my guess. On a 94' , isn't there 2 on the valve covers? No. Check the wires going into the ABS unit also. I know on Fords, they like to rot. Don't know about chevy's. No Koolblue no O2 on the valve covers. I don't think this is an ABS problem.:2cents: Great to hear from ya BTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattFancy Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 OLS ,I'll bet:silly:Two door? You will need to unbolt the seat and look to see if the catches are jammed/rusted and if so clean and oil them. On a two door there is usually another release cable and arm(connected to the seat back )aside from the two on the bottom rails. not hard to look at and a lot of times the arm is just stuck. Yeah its a 2 door. That could be what it is. It just doesn't catch when you try to move it. Thanks for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 Yeah its a 2 door. That could be what it is. It just doesn't catch when you try to move it. Thanks for the help! De nada, before ya yank the seat check and see if something got stuffed under it(there is a cable across the two latches) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattFancy Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 De nada, before ya yank the seat check and see if something got stuffed under it(there is a cable across the two latches) Well I noticed it after I took a big box out of my backseat, so I don't know if I jammed it or what not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 Wow... appears I've got some catching up to do... ok..here we go. im baffled by my problem.i have a 94 Chevy Z-71 K1500 4WD. it has 180K on it but runs really well. every morning though when i start it up i let it warm up for a minimum of 5 minutes then drive to work. on my way to work after about 10 minutes on the freeway my service engine light will come on. sometimes it will go back off after 5 minutes and sometimes it will stay all the way on until i get to work which is about 15 minutes. when i come out for lunch and start it up or when i go home the light is off and doesnt come back on. this doesnt happen every day either. all fluids (tranny, oil, coolant) have been drained and new ones put in less then 4 months ago and all are up to the levels they should be at. it doesnt slip, doesnt sputter and doesnt hiccup. what could it be? It could be a number of different things. Like others have suggested and given your symptoms (which seem like none), I would probably suspect a bad O2 sensor but it's impossible to know for sure without having it checked out when the light is on. Being that this vehicle is pre OBD II (aka OBD I) it will only store a code when the light is on. After the light goes out a scanner won't be able to tell you much (at least as far as why the light is on). What is OBD II you ask? OBD stands for On Board Diagnostics, and OBD II is the second version of it. It is found in every car '96 and newer and allows for a standard in communication with the PCM (Powertrain Control Module, ECU, computer, what ever you want to call it). OBD II allows emissions tests to be performed with accuracy without running the car and sticking a probe in the tail pipe. When the MIL (malfunction indicator light, check engine light, service engine soon light, what every you want to call it) comes on it will store a code that will not go away until the detected problem does not occur for a certain period of time. Even if the problem is not happening, the code will be stored in the memory and the light will remain on. OBD II is accurate enough to tell if there is something wrong with the car, even if the computer can cover up this problem by changing the the way the car is running (in the end, the driver may feel no difference in performance). But your car has OBD I... OBD (you guessed it On Board Diagnostics) I is a very remedial form of self diagnostics. If the PCM detects a problem, it will turn on the MIL only when the problem detected is occuring. It will not save any codes so a technician scanning for codes on an OBD I car that doesn't have a light on would be pointless. Furthermore, OBD I can only detect a limited number of issues compared to OBD II. Most times when the MIL is on in an OBD I vehicle, something is very wrong. Now, as this relates to your vehicle and why I would suspect an O2 sensor failure... an O2 sensor problem can be detected by OBD I and will not cause major running conditions (in most circumstances). The most noticeable symptom with a failed O2 sensor would be decreased fuel economy. Given that you don't see any sort of misfire or such, I would suspect a bad O2 sensor. All of that said, I would have it checked out by somebody. MIL's are very difficult to guess about unless I know the code that is being set. Try to make sure the light comes on too, I know it's hard to do something like that but it would be very helpful to whoever is working on it. The service engine light is emission related,have you had it tuned up ?(Plugs/wires/air filter)Could be a number of things,but from what you describe it is running slightly rich(incomplete combustion) Letting it idle for five minutes probably makes it worse in the morning. I don't see how he could imply that it was running slightly rich but I do agree that letting it idle for excessive amounts of time could be more harmful than beneficial. PS: Thanks for handling the thread while I was working. I do appreciate. why would it make it worse? seriously..i just did all plugs, wires, cap and rotor not too long ago also. maybe 2 months. what is your thought on it running rich. i put 89 octane in it.. I am of the notion that letting all of the car warm up at the same time is a good thing. When you let it idle for extended periods and go to drive, you are meshing a hot engine with a cold transmission. Hot and cold don't get along. 89 octane should be all you need for that beast. Grade of gas shouldn't be the problem. I'm guessing here:),perhaps SpringfieldSkins can help with a better ideaHave you tried driving w/o a long warmup? ...any change? Thanks for the shout out! I would bet that the light comes on even without a long warm up too. If it is an O2 sensor, the warm up time won't really matter. I havent tried driving without a long warmup but I can do that. Ive thought about it being the O2 sensor too but havent checked in to it much. Since it doesnt do it much I think you could be on to something with the carbon buildup. I don't think that OBD I computers are advanced enough to have a code set by carbon deposits alone. That said, if you haven't had an induction service (decarbonization service) done within the last 30K or so, it would probably be worth your while. Yept most likely o2 sensor. I think your truck has 2. You need put it on an analyzer to know for sure. how hard is it to change them out? Not very hard if all goes well (rust problems can suck tremendously). Much easier when it's on a lift though. They're under the truck in the exhaust. Knowing which one to replace is key though. You could splurge and replace all of them though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 I got a 2003 GMC pickup, the battery died and I switched it out and now its stalling when I brake, the RPM just down and it dies, but starts right back up again fine, any idea what that could be? The computer does go back to default after the battery is replaced. It takes a bit of driving before the computer relearns everything. This can sometimes be a result of carbon deposits (build up) around the throttle body. If the computer resets the IAC (Idle Air Control) back to base and there is a ton of carbon built up in the IAC passage it may not open far enough to maintain the proper idle. Example: We had a Toyota Camry in the shop about a month ago. We replaced the battery and the vehicle would start out and then die. I could hold my foot on the throttle and it would run. I tried driving it to get the computer to relearn but it never got back to normal. This vehicle was equipped with an electronic throttle and it wouldn't learn to go back to where it was before the battery was replaced. I had to do an induction service on this vehicle because without it, the car wouldn't stay running. After the induction service, the car ran great and the customer was as happy as could be. (I don't think your vehicle has electronic throttle so that shouldn't be the problem. The IAC might be though.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 (edited) Quote SpringfieldSkins "I don't see how he could imply that it was running slightly rich but I do agree that letting it idle for excessive amounts of time could be more harmful than beneficial." Just a guess on a older ,high mileage vehicle that there is wear and oil seepage upon startup(valve seals/rings),which is compounded by a long idle,which reduces the effectiveness of the catalytic converter and o2 sensor till it burns clean. Perhaps running dirty would be more precise,but a rich idle is not out of the question. I'm curious if reducing the long warmup idle will stop it. I love speculating with others problems:D Edited January 30, 2009 by twa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 I'm getting my Cat converter put on in a week and some change...but something else has come up...I've been getting my ABS and parking brake lights coming on at the same time at random times. It's usually while I'm driving and hit a big bump in the road. They never come on when I start up my truck but it's always after I've been driving around. They stay on until I turn off the engine, then the next time I go somewhere I'll crank it up and they'll be off. Do you guys have any idea what this could be? I've checked online and can't find anything for my make and model (2000 Chevy blazer). Also, I recently I had my brake pads/rotors replaced if that makes any difference, but I had the lights coming on before that. Fist thing, as twa suggested, check the brake fluid. Checking that could save you a lot of time if it is as simple as that. That said, I would say it probably isn't the brake fluid. Any technician with a head on their shoulders would know to check and/or fill the brake fluid after doing a brake job. The ABS pump is a very common problem on those vehicle. Also, if memory serves correctly, I believe that there is a TSB (technical service bulletin) about a power wire that can rub through causing an ABS light. Other possible problems could be a speed sensor or the ABS ring (what the speed sensor reads) on the wheels. A good technician should have noticed a broken ABS ring during the brake job though. There is probably a code stored for the ABS though. That should lead you (or somebody) in the right direction. You may also try and find a place online that lists the TSB's for your vehicle, that may be helpful as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 how hard is it to fix a seat? my passenger's seat is broke and doesn't stay in place. when ever i hit the brakes the seat moves forward and when i accelerate it goes backwards (kind of fun watching whoever is in it though). so how hard is it to fix on my own or should i take it somewhere to get fixed? I would respond but twa has probably offered just as much, if not more, advice that I could have on the subject. Carry on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 That would be my guess. On a 94' , isn't there 2 on the valve covers? O2 sensors? On the valve covers? :doh: They are in the exhaust just like every other car. Perhaps you were thinking PCV valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 (edited) Quote SpringfieldSkins"I don't see how he could imply that it was running slightly rich but I do agree that letting it idle for excessive amounts of time could be more harmful than beneficial." Just a guess on a older ,high mileage vehicle that there is wear and oil seepage upon startup(valve seals/rings),which is compounded by a long idle,which reduces the effectiveness of the catalytic converter and o2 sensor till it burns clean. Perhaps running dirty would be more precise,but a rich idle is not out of the question. I'm curious if reducing the long warmup idle will stop it. I see what you are saying. I don't know if that would have any effect on the MIL though. It's worth a shot as it's essentially free. I would suspect that if it was the O2 sensor (which it may very well not be) that it's setting the code once it goes into closed loop. Skipping the warm up time may just make it go into closed loop faster and thus cause the MIL to come on sooner. I love speculating with others problems:D This is strictly business here. (I just like sharing my knowledge to be honest) Edited January 30, 2009 by SpringfieldSkins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Maybe you can solve one of my headaches:D 04 Jetta GLI replaced the frt crossmember,suspension,axle and bearing,. It has a slight shudder in the brake pedal sometimes below 5 mph. disabled ABS and the problem quits, ABS light is not coming on and all LOOKS ok,but no software for VW's diagnostics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolblue13 Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 O2 sensors? On the valve covers? :doh:They are in the exhaust just like every other car. Perhaps you were thinking PCV valve? I realized it when I read motorheads comments. Boy do I feel like a dunce. PCV valve- O2 Sensor. Hey, you know what they say, Potato- Watermelon. Boy do I feel like an ass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 Maybe you can solve one of my headaches:D04 Jetta GLI replaced the frt crossmember,suspension,axle and bearing,. It has a slight shudder in the brake pedal sometimes below 5 mph. disabled ABS and the problem quits, ABS light is not coming on and all LOOKS ok,but no software for VW's diagnostics. Don't you hate not having the VW specific software? Damn Germans. There is nothing that I can remember off the top of my head as far as that goes. Obviously it has to be something in the ABS. Perhaps a pump problem? Try flushing out the brake fluid? If it was an electrical problem you'd probably have an ABS light of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 I realized it when I read motorheads comments. Boy do I feel like a dunce.PCV valve- O2 Sensor. Hey, you know what they say, Potato- Watermelon. Boy do I feel like an ass. :rotflmao: It's all good friendo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Don't you hate not having the VW specific software? Damn Germans./QUOTE] Krauts ****s,Hell I hate all cars and most of the people that drive them:D I need to get a government job so I can stay on here all day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorhead Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 I realized it when I read motorheads comments. Boy do I feel like a dunce.PCV valve- O2 Sensor. Hey, you know what they say, Potato- Watermelon. Boy do I feel like an ass. That's ok Bro.However, the next time I see ya I might get an uncontrollable urge to laugh.:laugh: With you that is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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