Chess Strategies

[Thinking Skins]

I'm trying to get back into playing chess. I used to be a pretty good player back in the day (top 3rd grader in DC baby!!).

Lately, I've been watching a lot of games and I'll probably get back into playing just for fun, but what are some of the principles you use to help look two and three moves ahead or to set up your opponent? I have the hardest time setting up the game tree right now.

[HighOnHendrix]

[motorhead]

I do like Chess!

But the answer to your question isn't that easy.

Watch the other player!

Just move a pawl out 2 squares in front of the Queen say.

Start out slow and watch what he does.

After 4 to 5 moves you need to know what he's going to do.Maybe?

[Stew]

i love chess. I like to move my center pawns out first. (sorry Im no good with the numbers and labels of each piece) after my two center pawns are out I pull out my right side knight. I do this to be able to touch the other side of the board quickly and be able to distract the opponent from my intentions. My intentions are to trap the player within his own line and restrict his movements so that putting him in check early will leave him with only limited options because his own pieces become obstacles rather then shielding pieces.

My attacks usually come from my bishops and my rooks are merely meant to make the board smaller. My right side knight is expendable where as my left side knight usualkly does more damage and protects my king.

[HighOnHendrix]

i love chess. I like to move my center pawns out first.

See, I like to start out with the edges first; but that's just me. I like to do that to free up my rooks and bishops to rape and pillage at any point on the board.

[Stew]

See, I like to start out with the edges first; but that's just me. I like to do that to free up my rooks and bishops to rape and pillage at any point on the board.

If you move your rooks out to quickly it takes away your "Castle" move in the case that you do get trapped. I like to move my bishops out as well, they are some sneaky damage dealers in this game, I just move out the center pieces and let them criss cross through the middle opening.

[Corcaigh]

I'm trying to get back into playing chess. I used to be a pretty good player back in the day (top 3rd grader in DC baby!!).

Lately, I've been watching a lot of games and I'll probably get back into playing just for fun, but what are some of the principles you use to help look two and three moves ahead or to set up your opponent? I have the hardest time setting up the game tree right now.

Much of chess is not about looking ahead at move trees and evaluating them - that's what computers do and our brains aren't as strong at that. The process of finding the right move in chess involves looking at a position, recognizing patterns, and understanding what each side's strengths and weaknesses are. Having done that you can then formulate a general plan that will be backed up with specific ideas where you would look at a very limited set of moves. The human brain can do a decent job of 'pruning the tree' if it's a very small tree to begin with.

What is meant by a pattern? It's a particular set up of pieces where it's almost automatic what the best way to play is. Such positions require little analysis. Instead, they require knowledge acquired through study or experience so that you can recognize these positions and instantaneously know what the right plan is for such a position. For example, in the position below white has an obvious and easy forced checkmate.

Ng5+ Kh8; Nf7+ Kg8; Nh6+ Kh8; Qg8+ Rxg8; Nf7 checkmate.

Again, knowing that sequence of nine moves didn't require complex analysis, just the recognition of the pattern known as 'smothered mate' and then deciding which way to execute it.

For those who want to improve I'd recommend three things:

(1) get a book such as Logical Chess Move By Move by Irving Chernev. It provides annotated example games which are selected to cover the basic concepts such as how to open a game and what your objectives are, what to do once the two sides have got their pieces out (the middlegame) and how to close out the game and force your advantage (the endgame).

(2) get a book on tactics to understand pins, skewers, forks, discovered attacks etc, or if you prefer, try your hand at a chess tactics server. http://chess.emrald.net/

(3) play games at a pace where you have time to think, and record your moves so that you can analyze them later and see what you did wrong.

I'd be happy to answer any questions you have.

[Corcaigh]

See, I like to start out with the edges first; but that's just me. I like to do that to free up my rooks and bishops to rape and pillage at any point on the board.

There are different ways to start the game, many of which are good and some suspect.

Think of the chess board as being like a battlefield. It's about having control of key areas and having enough space to do what you want, so that you can get your army to fight in a coordinated way. Attacking down the flanks can work, but you'd have to exert some restraint over the center to prevent your opponent having free reign there to cut your forces in two, isolate and then crush them.

[motorhead]

If you move your rooks out to quickly it takes away your "Castle" move in the case that you do get trapped. I like to move my bishops out as well, they are some sneaky damage dealers in this game, I just move out the center pieces and let them criss cross through the middle opening.

Never ever do that.Unless he does something dumb.

Which does happen.

So Stew I like it!

Just see what he's doing!

[Stew]

The best is when people start out immitating your moves, until they dont understand what you are doing, then they move on to the fallback plan, moving out the rooks, and by that point its too late, they have already opened up their middle and one side, and thats the side they will be playing from for the rest of th egame until those pieces fall or checkmate. Sometimes middle and endgame can be a few moves away.

[d0ublestr0ker0ll]

Used to play chess all the time.

Loved studying openings and had the Queen's Gambit and Ruy Lopez defense all but programed in my mind. My problem was once I captured the center and got everything set up so beautifully, I was bad at attacking. Actually picked up a Nigel Short book to get better at it. Could always open and finish well, my midgame was week. To cover it up I played speed chess, but it frustrated me enough to just drop the game all together in my teens. Well, that and chicks.

[Prosperity]

I move my queen's pawn first because I can generally free up my queen early and sometimes I can get that pawn to move up 3 spaces before I bring up other pawns for support. Moving up my center pawns that far allows me to control a lot of the board and gives me space to move around my interior pieces. After that I try to win by attrition by putting the opponent in lose lose situations were pieces have to be exchanged (as long as I get the better end of the trade)... I generally work better when there are fewer pieces on the board so that's further to my advantage.

[Corcaigh]

I move my queen's pawn first because I can generally free up my queen early

While moving the queen pawn first is a fine move, getting the queen out early is a rookie mistake and will get you crushed against semi-competent opposition.

If you want to play for a quick kill against unskilled opponents, move the pawn in front of the king, stick the light squared bishop on c4 (Queen Bishop 4), send the queen to h5 (king's rook 5) or f3 (king's knight 3). This threatens checkmate on f7 (Black's king bishop 2).

It's another of those 'patterns' - this one called Scholar's mate

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scholar%27s_mate

If your opponent doesn't fall for it you can always dump the knight on f3, castle and not have an awful position. Still, playing with the assumption that your opponent is a moron usually only works with friends and family.

[Prosperity]

depends on how you use it, sending the queen out without any support is foolish, but the extra space can lead to more varied support options for other pieces. It would be foolish not to use the queen for support early in the game before the other players have multiple layers of defensive support.

[Corcaigh]

depends on how you use it, sending the queen out without any support is foolish, but the extra space can lead to more varied support options for other pieces. It would be foolish not to use the queen for support early in the game before the other players have multiple layers of defensive support.

OK. At this point I'm thinking this is a joke thread.

As a general principle, queen pawn openings are slower to develop and more positional. As such, getting the queen out early is less likely to be successful. Because a quick attack is less likely to be appropriate in queen pawn openings, the other side can just get their pieces out, gaining time as they do, by threatening the queen.

If you have a specific variation in mind, of course you can justify breaking general principles, but "depends on how you use it" suggests to me that's not the case here.

If you're interested in these concepts, Google "chess tempo" and "chess development" - they are two terms used to describe the efficient use of the moves you have in the opening phase of the game.

[Mark The Homer]

Corcaigh, are you a master?

[WVUforREDSKINS]

I made a thread about chess and had a tournament about a year ago. A lot of people signed up, but very few ever played. I played Corcaigh and he pretty much slaughter me within the first 4 moves.

Corcaigh, do you play poker? A lot of the same skills in chess come in play in poker. If you don't, I would guess that you would crush the game and make a lot of money.

[PokerPacker]

Corcaigh, do you play poker? A lot of the same skills in chess come in play in poker. If you don't, I would guess that you would crush the game and make a lot of money.

I used to bluff weaker chess players all the time. Good fun :rotflmao:

[motorhead]

I played Corcaigh and he pretty much slaughter me within the first 4 moves.

Really?Just 4 moves?WoW!

Check mate in 8 or 10?

[Mark The Homer]

I thought everybody knew the classic 4 move checkmate. No?

Move king's pawn.

Move your bishop.

Move your queen.

Checkmate.

[Corcaigh]

Corcaigh, are you a master?

Yup.

[Corcaigh]

I made a thread about chess and had a tournament about a year ago. A lot of people signed up, but very few ever played. I played Corcaigh and he pretty much slaughter me within the first 4 moves.

You exaggerate. I'm more of a constrictor than the quick strike type.

Corcaigh, do you play poker? A lot of the same skills in chess come in play in poker. If you don't, I would guess that you would crush the game and make a lot of money.

Not seriously ... maybe some day. I know a few strong chess players who have taken up poker and are making some decent money.

[Baculus]

I'm trying to get back into playing chess. I used to be a pretty good player back in the day (top 3rd grader in DC baby!!).

Lately, I've been watching a lot of games and I'll probably get back into playing just for fun, but what are some of the principles you use to help look two and three moves ahead or to set up your opponent? I have the hardest time setting up the game tree right now.

Repetition -- that is one of the best ways to improve your visualization. As Corcaigh said, books are good for this, especially combination books and end-game books (for king and pawn, knight and pawn endings, etc.) I used to spend a lot of times with such exercises as well as books of games ("My 60 Memorable Games," by Fischer, as an example) and analyzing how the grandmasters approach the game.

I have no idea what's your level, but here's a few basic principles. If you already know this, maybe someone else will find it useful.

1. Minimize your pawn movements and push only center pawns.

Just don't start shoving pawns. It is not a good idea -- it weakens your position and you cannot take back those moves. In classical chess strategy, developing the king and queen pawn is best, and allows for controlling the center of the board and the development of bishops to the d2, e2 squares (d7, e7 for black). You can develop your wing pawns, but have an idea for it. Pushing your rook and knight pawns is a good way to start losing early and developing silly positions.

2. Develop your pieces.

Develop your minor pieces -- knight and bishop. This will certainly lead to more activity and it will allow you to both launch an attack and defend against one. This will also move the pieces from the back rank, where they serve little purpose, allows for castling to safeguard your king, and allows the rooks to become more active. Easy spots of development, as an example: Knights on bishop files -- c3, f3, or c6, f6, and bishops on the king and queen second rank, d2, e2, and d7, e7.

With a few moves, it does all that, and more. Development is critical for creating a useful chess opening and a useful middle-game position.

Of course, you may be beyond mere beginner's advice, so this may be moot.

3. Control the center of the board.

You want to aim for controlling the four center squares of the board. With that in mind, move your pawns to control these squares, and develop your pieces with this goal in mind as well. Don't move knights to the edge of the board ("knight on the rim is dim"), move bishops to active squares, and move rooks to the center files to extend their range.

Like bishops, rooks are best used in space -- they don't do well if they are stuck behind pawns, and best when they can apply pressure against a weakness. They want activity. Create it for them.

4. Castle early.

Don't leave your king hanging around the center of the board, asking to be mated. Get him into safety. Don't be a patzer.

5. Move rooks to half-open or open files.

Don't let your rook fester in the corner of the board. Move your center pawns, develop your minor pieces, castle, and move rooks to the center files (king and queen) files where there's bound to be activity. If not, you will create it will all of your gloriously placed minions.

A half-open rank has only one pawn on it, with the potential for a future open rank or a weakness. An open file has no pawns on it, and this is where rooks excel. Create these half-open or open files and your rooks will do wonders for you, allowing them to apply pressure.

6. Move your queen with deliberation.

Don't move her out and start grabbing pawns. Have a point of attack and look for a weakness. Chess is all about exploiting the enemy's position, feints, and looking for points of attack. With pieces developed, pawns moved into threatening squares, and the queen applying pressure, you are bound to create good positions and better stuff will happen, especially in the middle and end-games.

Grandmasters follow such basic principles, and with this in mind, move "trees" and such will make more sense. You will also have a better ability to calculate further, simply because you will have more at your disposal.

I hope this helps!

[Prosperity]

OK. At this point I'm thinking this is a joke thread.

As a general principle, queen pawn openings are slower to develop and more positional. As such, getting the queen out early is less likely to be successful. Because a quick attack is less likely to be appropriate in queen pawn openings, the other side can just get their pieces out, gaining time as they do, by threatening the queen.

If you have a specific variation in mind, of course you can justify breaking general principles, but "depends on how you use it" suggests to me that's not the case here.

If you're interested in these concepts, Google "chess tempo" and "chess development" - they are two terms used to describe the efficient use of the moves you have in the opening phase of the game.

how about we just play a game?

[zoony]

how about we just play a game?

oooooohh.... !!!