The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread

[twa]

the oil they are referring to from a bad radiator would have to be transmission fluid.(if that is the problem) and redish brown , motor oil turns a milky mocha

generally you can remove the radiator cap when cool, then start it and see if it blows out coolant while running after the thermostat opens(if the gasket is blown from the cylinder to coolant) 

 

 

[Springfield]

On 5/23/2018 at 1:53 PM, mark327 said:

Quick question for anyone. 

I have a Ford Excursion with V-10 .

Blew a spark plug , sounds like it is either #9 or #10. Drivers side hardest to reach plugs. 

What's a reasonable price for this repair 

 

When you say “blew”, did the plug physically come out of the head or what?  If it came out of the head then it will need to be retapped/helicoiled which can be a huge pain depending on how hard it is to reach.  If it’s just a worn spark plug then I’d just go ahead and replace all of them (id probably do that anyhow).

 

As far as price, tough to say.  A lot will depend on what’s actually wrong and geographical location.

2 hours ago, Malapropismic Depository said:

Hey guys, wondered if I could get an opinion on something, where I'm getting 2 different diagnosis from a couple places.

It's a 2000 Buick Century. Started out, it had what appeared to be oil present in the coolant.

Took it to one place, and they said the "oil cooler" for the radiator is what was causing the oil to leak into it, and that it needed a new radiator and thermostat, due to the oil damage ($800)

Took it somewhere else, and got a totally different answer. First, they said this particular car does not even have an "oil cooler" attached to the radiator.

And that the oil getting into the radiator was due to the head gasket gone bad. So, the head gasket, hoses, and system flush would be about $1400.

Does the 2nd diagnosis sound like the accurate one ? I'm just curious what might cause one guy to say this model car possesses an "oil cooler" on the radiator, while the other one says it does not contain one

Is there a way I can find out ?

Probably a dumb question, but if it's the head gasket, and we keep an eye on the oil and coolant and temperature, can it reasonably be driven much longer like that ?

 

I would be surprised if there was an oil cooler in the radiator of that car.  A transmission cooler, yes.  Oil cooler, no.

 

A head gasket would be a likely cause of oil/coolant mixture.  What’s even more likely is an intake manifold gasket failure.  Both would be replaced if you did the head gasket though because the intake comes off when removing the heads.

 

It needs to be fixed ASAP.  Oil in coolant and vice versa will cause huge problems if left untreated.  Whatever is wrong, it needs fixed yesterday.

[twa]

40 minutes ago, Springfield said:

 

 

 

It needs to be fixed ASAP.  Oil in coolant and vice versa will cause huge problems if left untreated.  Whatever is wrong, it needs fixed yesterday.

 

I vote he dump some alumaseal in the radiator and some oil stop leak in the oil and see how long it goes 

[mark327]

@Springfield

#7 plug blew out,  had to have it retapped/ helicoiled. $196.00

#7 is the second plug from the front on the left side of the motor. Very easy to access. Just glad I was wrong and it wasn't #9 or 10 . 

I had already replaced all plugs and coils last fall. 

 

[Springfield]

24 minutes ago, mark327 said:

@Springfield

#7 plug blew out,  had to have it retapped/ helicoiled. $196.00

#7 is the second plug from the front on the left side of the motor. Very easy to access. Just glad I was wrong and it wasn't #9 or 10 . 

I had already replaced all plugs and coils last fall. 

 

 

Whew.  Dodged a bullet, sounds like.  Strange that a relatively new plug would have blown out.

[skinfan2k]

@Springfield  I just went to the dealer and they recommended be the Rear CV (axle) boots are starting to lose grease.  

 

Apparently there is no CV boot kit available for my car, so both axles need to be replaced.

 

The estimate for each rear axle is $1500, totaling $3K.

 

What is this nonsense

[Springfield]

1 hour ago, skinfan2k said:

@Springfield  I just went to the dealer and they recommended be the Rear CV (axle) boots are starting to lose grease.  

 

Apparently there is no CV boot kit available for my car, so both axles need to be replaced.

 

The estimate for each rear axle is $1500, totaling $3K.

 

What is this nonsense

 

What kind of vehicle is it?

 

Either way it seems a bit much.  CV axles are one thing where the aftermarket is insanely less expensive on though, so most of that total is probably parts.

[skinfan2k]

2 minutes ago, Springfield said:

 

What kind of vehicle is it?

 

Either way it seems a bit much.  CV axles are one thing where the aftermarket is insanely less expensive on though, so most of that total is probably parts.

2009 lexus is250. they said there is no replacement cv boot kit for my car, which i call BS on 

[Springfield]

8 minutes ago, skinfan2k said:

2009 lexus is250. they said there is no replacement cv boot kit for my car, which i call BS on 

 

Ive seen some that don’t have any.  It may be able to be reclaimed if it’s leaking around the clamp though.  I’m not at the shop to see if what they’re telling you is true or false.

[Springfield]

Reclamped not reclaimed...

[skinfan2k]

19 hours ago, Springfield said:

Reclamped not reclaimed...

 

are you local? Do you have a shop to recommend?

[Springfield]

5 hours ago, skinfan2k said:

 

are you local? Do you have a shop to recommend?

 

Im in Springfield.  I’d recommend you call a few local shops to you and ask if they will recheck the dealer’s recommendation for you.  A reputable shop will probably do it for free or a minimal charge.  That way you can get a second opinion.  

 

I was really busy today (fixing computers in our office) and forgot to check what the part and labor times are on those things and if boots are available separate from the axles.

[zoony]

Labor on cv axlss is a ****

[JamesMadisonSkins]

2008 Toyota Highlander

 

Had a new starter and battery put into the car in May after my car was unable to start. Things were resolved and car has run fine.

 

Saturday, leaving for a long drive back to DC from the northeast, car won't start. Quick jump and it's going strong, and despite a few stops and turn off/on on the way back, no issues. Car was driven a bit Sunday and Monday. No lights were left on but the temps had gone from like 95 the day before to 45 overnight so I thought MAYBE that had messed with the battery and dismissed it.

 

Tuesday, car is running fine with no apparent issues. I hit the push ignition and prematurely switch from P to D and it cuts off (have done this before when moving too fast, and going back to park and hitting ignition again works fine). Car does the clicking "battery is dead" sound, same one from previous jump that was instantaneous on re-start. This jump took 5 minutes to get engine to roll-over, and it was a sputtering roll-over after multiple weak rolls and failure to ignite.

 

Started/Stopped the car 3 more times Tuesday with no more than 75 minutes between engine going off to on. Each time the rollover was weak but would eventually catch.

 

Fast forward to this morning. Fully expect battery to be dead/car not to start. Initial push of ignition is a weak roll and nowhere near a catch of the engine. Push button 5 more times, each one with progressively closer catches until finally the engine rolls over and starts. Get to work, park, turn off car, turn back on and it starts immediately/perfectly fine.

 

WTF Is going on? Someone suggested an alternator. But wouldn't the battery just completely die at some point? Especially if the battery was dead and survived a 10 hour drive and multiple drives after being jumped initially? I know it's a new battery, but wouldn't it eventually run out of juice of the alternator was completely shot and not re-charging it? Is this an electrical issue? Was the starter installed incorrectly?

 

I feel like I'm playing Russian roulette with my car right now. AAA, where I got it serviced for the new starter/battery can't get me in until Friday and I've got some appointments I don't feel like uber-ing to between today and tomorrow. I may just drop it off early tonight and let them get around to it if they can before Friday, but I'd like to go in with a sense of what "might" be wrong. I want to take it back there mainly because of the 2 year warranty on the parts they installed in May, in case something was done incorrectly that is leading to this.

Thanks guys!

Edited July 11, 2018 by JamesMadisonSkins

[Springfield]

Defective starter?  Poorly connected battery?  My first two thoughts.

 

Best bet will be to have someone check out and find out where the voltage is dropping when the vehicle will not start. Intermittent issues can be frustrating though.

[JamesMadisonSkins]

3 minutes ago, Springfield said:

Defective starter?  Poorly connected battery?  My first two thoughts.

 

Best bet will be to have someone check out and find out where the voltage is dropping when the vehicle will not start. Intermittent issues can be frustrating though.

Both would be excellent news for me. As I would assume the defective starter would be replaced free since they just put it in, and a poorly connected battery would be a low-cost or no-cost fix if it's their fault especially. Thank you. The alternator would not be a pretty repair haha. They're going to do a diagnostics on Friday when I take it in, so that'll surely give me the answer. Mainly just looking for financial comfort haha.

[Springfield]

1 minute ago, JamesMadisonSkins said:

Both would be excellent news for me. As I would assume the defective starter would be replaced free since they just put it in, and a poorly connected battery would be a low-cost or no-cost fix if it's their fault especially. Thank you. The alternator would not be a pretty repair haha. They're going to do a diagnostics on Friday when I take it in, so that'll surely give me the answer. Mainly just looking for financial comfort haha.

 

Dont think it’s an alternator.

 

Alternator provides power when the car is running and doesn’t effect the starting process at all.  A failed alternator will usually drain the battery down while the car is running, sometimes to the point that it dies.

[JamesMadisonSkins]

7 minutes ago, Springfield said:

 

Dont think it’s an alternator.

 

Alternator provides power when the car is running and doesn’t effect the starting process at all.  A failed alternator will usually drain the battery down while the car is running, sometimes to the point that it dies.

I had an alternator go on me with my very first car back in 2005 and it died in the middle of the road. It didn't strike me as that, since this seems to clearly be some sort of ignition issue and the battery/car run fine once it's started, while an alternator obviously would have allowed my car to die at any point on Saturday during my 10 hour drive, which it didn't haha

Edited July 11, 2018 by JamesMadisonSkins

[Kosher Ham]

Thank goodness I know a local mechanic. Came to the house, fixed the problem... $100. 

I was expecting to spend at least 500 bucks. 

[Isifhan]

General question - 2017 Toyota Highlander. I found a bumper to bumper Toyota Warranty for 10 yrs 125k miles (which I think is the best they offer and I had to call a bunch of different dealers to find it) running ~$2,500. We have about 16k miles on it currently. I believe they offer the warranty if it's sub 30k miles. Warranty covers all electronics etc which is my biggest worry.  Worth getting? 

[Kosher Ham]

I wouldn't, but we drive less than 10k per year on any of our cars. 

My beater is 2003 with about 125k. 

Our Mustang has about 25k and it is nearly 4 years old. 

 

Is it some kind of extended warranty ? 

[Isifhan]

Yep extended warranty. We tend to put a fair amount of miles on the car. 

[twa]

if they end it at 125K miles it is probably not worth it if you put a lot of miles on it.

but piece of mind is worth something

[JamesMadisonSkins]

On ‎7‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 11:49 AM, Springfield said:

 

Dont think it’s an alternator.

 

Alternator provides power when the car is running and doesn’t effect the starting process at all.  A failed alternator will usually drain the battery down while the car is running, sometimes to the point that it dies.

So the last 4 times since I posted that I have started my car, it starts off as if it's dead. Then after about 45 seconds and a spaced out 7-8 pushes of the push start, it eventually catches and then runs fine. If I turn it on immediately after I turn the car off, it ignites just fine.

 

So weird. Dropping it off in the morning at AAA. But I currently don't fear the car starting since I now know if I sit there and push the button enough times eventually it starts.

 

Is it possible that by moving too quickly from Park to Drive while it was still igniting and "shutting it down" may have shorted something? That's the only thing I can think of, although it doesn't explain why the battery died when I was out of town Saturday morning in the first place.

Edited July 12, 2018 by JamesMadisonSkins

[Springfield]

4 minutes ago, JamesMadisonSkins said:

So the last 4 times since I posted that I have started my car, it starts off as if it's dead. Then after about 45 seconds and a spaced out 7-8 pushes of the push start, it eventually catches and then runs fine. If I turn it on immediately after I turn the car off, it ignites just fine.

 

So weird. Dropping it off in the morning at AAA. But I currently don't fear the car starting since I now know if I sit there and push the button enough times eventually it starts.

 

Biggest key is that they encounter the problem.