The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread

[ljs]

How can I find out if various year parts will work in a specific year? For example, if I want to find a used started for the 91 explorer, how can I find out if a 90 or 92 one would work? Figuring I'll spend the $45 for a scrap one, have my buddy put it in- then turn in this piece of crap vehicle.

Edited August 4, 2009 by ljs

[twa]

Call a junk yard...they can tell ya the interchanges and give you a price too.

Is their job.

added

Hammering didn't work?

Edited August 4, 2009 by twa

[Springfield]

not sure if you know much about tires springfield but i am needing to get a set of tires for my truck('96 ranger). there really isnt much of a selection due to the size of my tires(225/70/14) but i have narrowed it down to either a firestone firehawk indy 500, primewell ps680(i think its a firestone house brand because i have only seen it at firestone stores), and a road hugger radial g/t. the road hugger and the firehawk are both 55k warranty while the primewell is only 40k. which one would be the best tire? i only really drive from home to work and school, no offroad or anything like that and no hot rodding it.

edit: one other question. is it worth it to pay the extra for the road hazard warranty?

I've never heard of the Road Hugger brand before. I have heard of the Firestone and Primewell though, so I'd probably go with one of those two. The Firestone is more of a "middle of the road" tire and the Primewell is an economy tire.

In my opinion, road hazard and treadwear warranties aren't really all that good. It is very easy for a tire company to weasel themselves out of a road hazard or treadwear warranty. There is also the (great) chance that you won't ever have to use the warranty.

As far as the treadwear ratings, it's better to go by the DOT tested numbers than by some arbitrary number the manufacturer throws out there. Try this.

Also:

Treadwear Grades

UTQG Treadwear Grades are based on actual road use in which the test tire is run in a vehicle convoy along with standardized Course Monitoring Tires. The vehicle repeatedly runs a prescribed 400-mile test loop in West Texas for a total of 7,200 miles. The vehicle can have its alignment set, air pressure checked and tires rotated every 800 miles. The test tire's and the Monitoring Tire's wear are measured during and at the conclusion of the test. The tire manufacturers then assign a Treadwear Grade based on the observed wear rates. The Course Monitoring Tire is assigned a grade and the test tire receives a grade indicating its relative treadwear. A grade of 100 would indicate that the tire tread would last as long as the test tire, 200 would indicate the tread would last twice as long, 300 would indicate three times as long, etc.

[ljs]

Call a junk yard...they can tell ya the interchanges and give you a price too.

Is their job.

added

Hammering didn't work?

I didn't feel comfortable trying that at the gas station- so I decided to tow it home first. Lets just say it was not a fun experience. I've towed a car before but my gf kept riding the brake, then wouldn't answer her cell phone. By the time we got home I was done.

I will try it when she gets home from work (she has my truck and I took the day off:silly:)

Junkyard said a 90-95 would work and they are out. I'm about to call around a couple other places.

[twa]

I didn't feel comfortable trying that at the gas station- so I decided to tow it home first. Lets just say it was not a fun experience. I've towed a car before but my gf kept riding the brake, then wouldn't answer her cell phone. By the time we got home I was done.

I will try it when she gets home from work (she has my truck and I took the day off:silly:)

Junkyard said a 90-95 would work and they are out. I'm about to call around a couple other places.

Try autozone or other discount places,sometimes they are dirt cheap on rebuilt ones(and not much worth a crap...but;))

added

N/M 0ver a $100 at autozone ,hammer it or take it off and try to flush it out

Edited August 4, 2009 by twa

[MSB 21]

I'd bet on the starter drive hung

I have a '96 Ford F250 that is doing the same thing, although mine will start after a few click click click turns of the key.

I replaced the battery and it started fine for about a month.

So when you say the starter driver hung does that mean the starter itself needs replaced?

this is not a daily driver anymore so it sits for 2 weeks max w/o being driven.

[twa]

yes, sounds like the starter is going bad,which includes the starter drive(bendix).

You should check for corrosion or loose connections first though.

It's not too hard to remove,and most parts store will test it for free.

[BrianMerson]

My thought on this subject is that as an money doctor [ATM] at the very least if the ATM isn't completely repaired the patient does't die a violent death. I get 2ND & 3rd chances. Sometimes many more.

[Blackest Eyes]

Need some transmission repair advice/quotes...

Long story short, the transmission in my 2001 Chrysler Sebring coupe broke. My father said he would fix it for me. He hasn't done any car repairs of this magnitude before but was insistent that I let him repair it (big :doh: moment on my part). Well, the process is taking entirely too long and the car I am driving now is going to die anytime now so I need the Sebring to be fixed.

We have a used transmission ready to be swapped into the car.

I am strongly considering getting a tow truck to pick the car up from his place and taking it to a shop for someone who knows what they are doing fix it. If I do end up doing that, how much money am I looking at? I assume that at this point labor is whats gonna get me since I already have a transmission...but I honestly have no clue.

Thanks.

[twa]

Prices vary greatly,but I would guess $500 to install a used one,probably more in your area.

Some will not even install used parts.

[skinfan2k]

I just got an estimate that I need to replace my head gasket and it will cost about 1300 to repair for a 02 corolla? It seems like alot

[twa]

I just got an estimate that I need to replace my head gasket and it will cost about 1300 to repair for a 02 corolla? It seems like alot

is that simply for a gasket or a head job

You can of course get a lower price by shopping around,but cutting costs also means cutting quality in many cases.

Make sure of the mechanics reputation.

[Mickalino]

Lately, my car has been stalling right after it starts.

It doesn't happen frequently, however before these episodes began, it has never stalled before, at all.

It only happens right after it starts initially, not after driving around. But it starts right up, the 2nd time, after each episode where it stalls. And never needs a jump. And the actual starting the car is never a problem, just that it dies after it starts at those times.

I'm wondering if it's a signal that something is gradually about to go bad, and possibly leave me stranded somewhere. Does it sound like the alternator or battery about to die ?

It's a 97 Buick LeSabre.

Edited September 18, 2009 by Mickalino

[twa]

Doesn't sound like the alternator or battery Mick

If it just does it when the engine is cold,I'd say the spark plugs are getting fouled/old...pull one and look

Could be a number of things though

[Mickalino]

Thanks, I'll start by changin the plugs

[twa]

Thanks, I'll start by changin the plugs

Check one first,but if ya ain't changed em in a yr or so you might as well.

[Mickalino]

Yea, it's been a little over a year....And I'm not very good at tellin the difference between a good plug and a bad one, so if it's ever in question, I'll change it.

[Springfield]

Lately, my car has been stalling right after it starts.

It doesn't happen frequently, however before these episodes began, it has never stalled before, at all.

It only happens right after it starts initially, not after driving around. But it starts right up, the 2nd time, after each episode where it stalls. And never needs a jump. And the actual starting the car is never a problem, just that it dies after it starts at those times.

I'm wondering if it's a signal that something is gradually about to go bad, and possibly leave me stranded somewhere. Does it sound like the alternator or battery about to die ?

It's a 97 Buick LeSabre.

My opinion would differ from TWA's. In my opinion, spark plugs are usually bad or not. This means that there will either be a misfire or not. In your case though, it isn't misfiring, it's just dying out.

My first two thoughts would be either MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor or IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. The MAF sensor is what detects the air flowing into the engine through the intake. Often times, when the MAF sensors are just starting to fail, it will exhibit these symptoms. A MAF sensor failure is also fairly common on the LeSabre. Another thought would be an IAC that is gummed up. The IAC is there to adjust the idle as needed when the throttle plate is completely closed (such as start up). If the IAC is gummed up, it will not allow the proper air flow and thus cause the car to stall.

[Mickalino]

That's interesting because the sensor was recommended servicing to me, for a different problem (maybe it exhibits multiple symptoms)

A couple years ago, I was having problems of the car losing power at high speeds. When I'd go over 70, it would lose power, to where it would gradually slow down to 50, even while I'm gassing it. I took it to Auto Zone, for a free diagnostic, and one of the things that came up was the MAF sensor. They said all I needed to do was buy this special spray, and open up some hose and spray it in there. Does this sound like the correct way to deal with the MAF problem ?

If so, now I can't remember where the spray is supposed to be applied.

Could you tell me ?

[DieselPwr44]

A couple years ago, I was having problems of the car losing power at high speeds. When I'd go over 70, it would lose power, to where it would gradually slow down to 50, even while I'm gassing it. I took it to Auto Zone, for a free diagnostic, and one of the things that came up was the MAF sensor. They said all I needed to do was buy this special spray, and open up some hose and spray it in there. Does this sound like the correct way to deal with the MAF problem ?

Mick,

Your high speed problem is probably that Mass Air Flow sensor.

Read up on it here:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/maf_sensors.htm

Often, a dirty or faulty MAF sensor will cause the engine to set a LEAN code and turn on the Check Engine Light. If the MAF sensor wire becomes dirty or is contaminated with oil (from an aftermarket reusable air filter), it will be slow to react to changes in airflow. This may cause the MAF sensor to under-report airflow, causing the engine to run lean.

[Mickalino]

Mick,

Your high speed problem is probably that Mass Air Flow sensor.

Read up on it here:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/maf_sensors.htm

I guess that confirms it - since that was what the Auto Zone Diagnostic tool was indicating I needed. Thank you for reinforcing the solution.

[big#44]

ive got a leaking drive boot on the cv joint on the front passenger side. i looked for a tear or hole and i couldnt find anything, yet theres grease all over the strut, brakes and inside of the wheel. im gonna stop by the dealer first thing in the morning because i know if it goes to long it could damage the cv joint, if it isnt already. my question, any idea how much they'll charge me to put a new boot on? how about a new cv joint/drive axle? how hard is it to put a new axle on if i wanted to do it myself, or i should say is there alot that i could screw up?

[Springfield]

ive got a leaking drive boot on the cv joint on the front passenger side. i looked for a tear or hole and i couldnt find anything, yet theres grease all over the strut, brakes and inside of the wheel. im gonna stop by the dealer first thing in the morning because i know if it goes to long it could damage the cv joint, if it isnt already. my question, any idea how much they'll charge me to put a new boot on? how about a new cv joint/drive axle? how hard is it to put a new axle on if i wanted to do it myself, or i should say is there alot that i could screw up?

In my area (NoVA), a CV boot replacement on most cars shouldn't run you more than $200 and a new axle shouldn't be much more than $300. You are right that a broken CV boot can end up damaging the CV joint (what the boot protects) but it isn't a safety issue... at least for a long time.

In most cases, replacing the CV boot (or axle) means taking the lower ball joint out of the spindle and sliding the axle shaft out. Some cars are easier than others. Some cars don't have CV boots that are easy to replace and you'd be better off buying a new (or remanufactured) axle if you were doing the job yourself.

Hope that helps you out.

[twa]

You could also poor boy it and put a quickboot on it

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_CV-JOINT-QUICK-BOOT-Dorman_5830000-P_741_R|GRP60007____

down here there are shops that specialize in installing rebuilt ones w/new boots for less than 200 total

It is not difficult unless ya screw something up or don't have the tools.

Murphy's law rules.

[Mark The Homer]

Yeah but those split boot deals don't last. You'll be re-doing it every 3-6 months.