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The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread


Springfield

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I have looked all over the interwebz for a 3rd brake light cover for my Saturn Relay (2005) and I can not for the life of me find one. Are they called something else? Am I an idiot?

Mine is cracked completely in half and barely hanging on, Help!

It'll probably be called the 3rd brake light lens or lens assembly.

EDIT: Does it look like this?

I don't think they sell bulbs separately for this lens. It's probably got LEDs built into it. GM has been doing that with a lot of their 3rd brake lights lately.

Edited by SpringfieldSkins
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It'll probably be called the 3rd brake light lens or lens assembly.

EDIT: Does it look like this?

I don't think they sell bulbs separately for this lens. It's probably got LEDs built into it. GM has been doing that with a lot of their 3rd brake lights lately.

Indeed, it does look like that and it is LEDs. Thank You. Do you think that is about as cheap as I'm going to find it?

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Indeed, it does look like that and it is LEDs. Thank You. Do you think that is about as cheap as I'm going to find it?

Probably. The 3rd brake light assemblies for the Chevy trucks are expensive as hell. You could try a junk yard but who knows what kind of luck you'll have there. The price they had on that site sounded pretty reasonable though.

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For a while, I've had a very reliable 1994 Toyota Camry that has worked like charm for many years. However, last weekend my car overheated, and me being the stupid person that I was, I thought I could drive a new miles to the nearest service station. As I soon learned, this was a horrid idea as my car shutdown in the middle of the road. After getting my car towed and opening the hood, I soon notice that my radiator has sprung a leak. The next day I had my radiator and thermostat replaced, and the car starts just fine. I lucked out, I thought.

Just so others know and for future reference....never, ever keep driving the car if it's starts overheating as a blown head gasket is likely result. When a car overheats the coolant boils and the pressure builds, that pressure is going to find it's way out somewhere and usually the head gasket is one of the easiest places. Save yourself the pain, shut the car off and call a tow truck as soon as it starts overheating.

And SS is exactly right about the cylinder filling with coolant as a likely reason why it would restart after the first repair but not after sitting overnight.

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I was driving home tonight in the rain and I'm suddenly in water up the hood of my car. While this was happening I turned off the road into a parking lot that was more elevated and my car died in the lot. It started back up after I let it rest a few minutes but it sounded and felt rough. I didn't drive it home. So how bad is my car messed up. Oh and my car is a 2003 Mazda protege5 if that helps at all.

Edited by Disco Dave
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I was driving home tonight in the rain and I'm suddenly in water up the hood of my car. While this was happening I turned off the road into a parking lot that was more elevated and my car died in the lot. It started back up after I let it rest a few minutes but it sounded and felt rough. I didn't drive it home. So how bad is my car messed up. Oh and my car is a 2003 Mazda protege5 if that helps at all.

I would give it the night to dry up and see what happens the next day. You could have just got some moisture in the coil or connections to the spark plugs. You also could have sucked up water through the intake and damaged the engine. Either way letting it dry out would be a good idea let it sit for a few hours and let as much water evaporate as possible.

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I would give it the night to dry up and see what happens the next day. You could have just got some moisture in the coil or connections to the spark plugs. You also could have sucked up water through the intake and damaged the engine. Either way letting it dry out would be a good idea let it sit for a few hours and let as much water evaporate as possible.

I just got home with the car. It did start up but is still not right. It's idling weird and the check engine light is on. I'm going to let it air out some more before I take it to my mechanic. Would my car even start up if it had water in the engine? Do you think my insurance will pay to get my car fixed if the engine is messed up?

Thanks again you have been a big help.

Edited by Disco Dave
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  • 3 weeks later...

I was driving behind my mother yesterday and noticed something leaking from under the car...

We pulled over and after inspection, it turned out to be very cold water. The water was pooling on the ground beneath the car, then it would stop, then it would start dripping again. Any ideas what it could be?

We just got the car back from its 90k checkup a couple weeks ago and they should have replaced anything they noticed going bad. They said the water pump was fine :whoknows:

Edited by The Brave Little Toaster Oven
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I was driving behind my mother yesterday and noticed something leaking from under the car...

We pulled over and after inspection, it turned out to be very cold water. The water was pooling on the ground beneath the car, then it would stop, then it would start dripping again. Any ideas what it could be?

We just got the car back from its 90k checkup a couple weeks ago and they should have replaced anything they noticed going bad. They said the water pump was fine :whoknows:

Condensation from the AC evaporator...no problem ..it is normal

The humidity effects it similar to a glass of ice water

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So I have a 2006 Pontiac G6 83,000 miles on it. When I have been going highway speeds and I start to brake to slow down, my car vibrates. I replaced the front brakes and had the rotors shaved about 20,000 miles ago. I put top of the line ceramic brake pads on because I found out the semi-metallic pads I had put on previously were crap (thank you autozone for recommending that junk). I still have the semi-metallic pads on the back because I have not had a need to replace them quite yet. It feels like the vibration is coming from the front of my car and my first thought was the rotors were getting warped but I have a hard time believing that since I just had the work done 20,000 miles ago. Anyone have any thoughts?

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So I have a 2006 Pontiac G6 83,000 miles on it. When I have been going highway speeds and I start to brake to slow down, my car vibrates. I replaced the front brakes and had the rotors shaved about 20,000 miles ago. I put top of the line ceramic brake pads on because I found out the semi-metallic pads I had put on previously were crap (thank you autozone for recommending that junk). I still have the semi-metallic pads on the back because I have not had a need to replace them quite yet. It feels like the vibration is coming from the front of my car and my first thought was the rotors were getting warped but I have a hard time believing that since I just had the work done 20,000 miles ago. Anyone have any thoughts?

Probably warped rotors due to the top of the line ceramic brake pads

Ceramics and cast iron rotors combined with heavy braking=warpage

lotta heat buildup with ceramics

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is the service engine soon light a big deal?

I have a 2003 Mitsubishi and the light turned on for no apparent reason. The car has run perfectly fine and the same way it always has... change the oil regularly and all that. Is it just trying to tell me to make sure to get it maintained regularly, or is there something wrong with it that I don't know?

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is the service engine soon light a big deal?

I have a 2003 Mitsubishi and the light turned on for no apparent reason. The car has run perfectly fine and the same way it always has... change the oil regularly and all that. Is it just trying to tell me to make sure to get it maintained regularly, or is there something wrong with it that I don't know?

It is usually a emission sensor bad or the fuel mix rich due to some other sensor bad

Usually nothing to worry about and can be caused by bad gas or even a loose gas cap...if it continues after filling up again it would be better to have it checked (autozone ect usually will scan for free if money is tight)

Springfield or someone more familiar with Mitsubishi's can help more.

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is the service engine soon light a big deal?

I have a 2003 Mitsubishi and the light turned on for no apparent reason. The car has run perfectly fine and the same way it always has... change the oil regularly and all that. Is it just trying to tell me to make sure to get it maintained regularly, or is there something wrong with it that I don't know?

My guess is the O2 sensor (oxygen sensor). Does your car smell like rotten eggs when you open the door while the car is on or when you stand near muffler? Go to autozone or advance auto parts and they will loan you an OBD II scanner. It will tell you exactly what is wrong with your car. If it is your O2 sensor, you don't have to get it changed right away. Your gas mileage will just go down because the fuel/air mixture won't be right and if you ignore it for too long, it will jack up your catalytic converter which cost way more then an 02 sensor

Edited by I_Bleed_B&G
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Probably warped rotors due to the top of the line ceramic brake pads

Ceramics and cast iron rotors combined with heavy braking=warpage

lotta heat buildup with ceramics

Ok so choices are ceramic brake pads that warp my rotors (no Im not a heavy braker either) or semi-metallics with the pieces of metal that mess my rotors up. Something seems wrong here!

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Ok so choices are ceramic brake pads that warp my rotors (no Im not a heavy braker either) or semi-metallics with the pieces of metal that mess my rotors up. Something seems wrong here!

A good semi-metallic pad should not mess up the rotor and do not have as much heat buildup

If you upgrade to ceramics, upgrade the rotors imo

Perhaps one of the others have a better suggestion

added

perhaps the rotors should have been replaced instead of turned?

Edited by twa
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Just got a 2000 Honda accord V6, and check engine light comes on shortly after I fill up. Ussually shuts off when I get really low on gas. I put 87 octane in it, is it possible that the light comes on due to fuel grade? Do you reccomend using a higher grade gas?

Secondly I need to get my timing belt switched at 105,000K, what would be a reasonable price for parts and labor? And what would be a reasonable price if I was to supply part?

Thanks for the help.

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Just got a 2000 Honda accord V6, and check engine light comes on shortly after I fill up. Ussually shuts off when I get really low on gas. I put 87 octane in it, is it possible that the light comes on due to fuel grade? Do you reccomend using a higher grade gas?

Secondly I need to get my timing belt switched at 105,000K, what would be a reasonable price for parts and labor? And what would be a reasonable price if I was to supply part?

Thanks for the help.

The grade should not effect it, I would think it is a problem with the fuel vapor recovery system..but w/o a scan it is beyond my help and guessing vapor cannister

They do have several tsb's out on them (Technical Service Bulletins)

Perhaps someone else can help.

PAGING Springfields...lol

Edited by twa
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gf owns a 91 Ford Explorer. First- this thing is a beast and I have no idea why it still runs. The damn thing leaks oil like a faucet that is turned on. which leads me to this question-

What is the best thing to clean all the oil off so I can figure out where the leak is coming from? I tried a liquid degreaser- didn't really do much. I don't want to scrub the entire engine, so looking for something that I can spray or pour on it, let it soak and rinse off. I know, asking for a lot- but any suggestions would help.

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