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The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread


Springfield

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Question....

In plain English what's the best way to find a vacuum hose leak?

Thanks.

In most cases, a vacuum hose leak is audible. You can hear a hissing noise from where the leak is.

A little bit more info now. A combustion engine is basically a big pump. It sucks are in (intake) and blows air out (exhaust). There are also vacuum lines (part of the intake system) that serve several purposes which I won't really get into. If a vacuum line leaks, it's not leaking into the air surrounding the car, it's actually sucking air in. Sometimes, this air will go into the engine unmetered (meaning the CPU doesn't read that it is going into the engine) and will cause the idle to rise or even be rough.

Now based on your problem...

What twa is describing is a great way to find a smaller vacuum leak, perhaps the intake manifold gasket. In order to get the engine to rise up to 2000 RPMs, it would have to be a fairly large vacuum leak. Probably a vacuum leak that you could hear.

If you can't hear a hissing noise and your car is idling at 2000 RPMs, you probably don't have a vacuum leak.

What kind of car is it?

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  • 4 weeks later...
Also, there may be clearance problems with the rim. There's nothing worse than having your brake caliper scrape the inside of the rim when you apply the brakes.

I just put a big brake kit on my car. It looks sweet. I got the caliper powder coated to match my car in pearl white. Here is a sneak peak:

PA310013.JPG

PA310008.JPG

Edited by I_Bleed_B&G
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Can you recommend a good and effective brand of Radiator Stop Leak ?

One where I don't have to flush out my whole radiator system, hopefully. :paranoid:

Alumaweld, but any stop leak is not the preferred option

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With a radiator leak, a small one eventually leads to a bigger one, and sooner rather than later you'll have to remove it to get it fixed.

Back in my motor racing days, a quick fix that always worked was to just crack an egg into the filler. The coolant has to be at normal operating temp for this to work. Pepper was another quick fix, but usually for smaller leaks.

Not sure if Bar's Leaks is still on the market, but that can be used in the interim.

There is nothing (that I'm aware of) for a long term fix.

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Alumaweld, but any stop leak is not the preferred option
With a radiator leak, a small one eventually leads to a bigger one, and sooner rather than later you'll have to remove it to get it fixed.

Back in my motor racing days, a quick fix that always worked was to just crack an egg into the filler. The coolant has to be at normal operating temp for this to work. Pepper was another quick fix, but usually for smaller leaks.

Not sure if Bar's Leaks is still on the market, but that can be used in the interim.

There is nothing (that I'm aware of) for a long term fix.

It's a relatively small leak, and it hasn't worsened over the period of about 8 months. I have to add a gallon of Coolant, about once a month. And I figure that's cheaper than replacing the radiator, at least in the short-run.

So, I figure if I get a good stop-leak, that might even reduce my once-a-month cost for a gallon of Coolant.

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2001 Accord 4 cylinder. Sometimes it wont turn over to start, is it likely a fuel line ? A clog ? When it has a problem starting it will hesitate initially and then be fine for days. Bad spark plugs perhaps ?

Highly unlikely. In fact, impossible. If it won't turn over, it has nothing to do with a fuel line.

Do you mean it cranks over but won't start? If so, and with the other symptoms, it could be that the fuel is draining out of the carby, and thus, requiring excessive cranking to fill the bowl in the carby.

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Highly unlikely. In fact, impossible. If it won't turn over, it has nothing to do with a fuel line.

Do you mean it cranks over but won't start? If so, and with the other symptoms, it could be that the fuel is draining out of the carby, and thus, requiring excessive cranking to fill the bowl in the carby.

Wanna re-think that one? I don't know, maybe 2001 Hondas are still carburetted down under but 'round here, that's decades in the past.

Edit: As to the problem, I think you're saying that the car won't crank at times. If your battery and charging system are in good condition (and the fact that it usually works indicates it probably is) then I would think your starter is on its way out. Do all the lights go dim and there's just a clicking noise when it won't start or does everything seem normal outside the engine not cranking? If everything else seems normal, the next time it happens try giving the starter a few love taps with a hammer and see if it starts then.

Edited by DCsportsfan53
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Back in my motor racing days, a quick fix that always worked was to just crack an egg into the filler. The coolant has to be at normal operating temp for this to work. Pepper was another quick fix, but usually for smaller leaks.

This is a dumb question, but just to be sure - when you say "filler", you're talking about where you remove the main cap to the radiator, right ?

And when you used pepper - how much ?

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Even if it is fuel injected, a blocked fuel line won't prevent it from turning over. If there's no fuel getting through, it will just crank over and over until the battery dies.

Maybe you want to re-word what the symptoms are.

True. From the way I'm reading it, the car will occasionally not crank at all but I agree, we need some clarification on the symptoms before we can offer any real advice.

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This is a dumb question, but just to be sure - when you say "filler", you're talking about where you remove the main cap to the radiator, right ?

And when you used pepper - how much ?

Just fix it right, Mick. Trust us when we say that stop leak type stuff is very temporary and very well may end up causing you a lot more cooling system problems down the road. Just keep a close eye on it and keep topping it off until you can afford the radiator. You're in FL, right? It's not like you even need antifreeze, just dump water in the ***** till you can afford to fix it right or else you're going to cause yourself additional long term expenses.

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This is a dumb question, but just to be sure - when you say "filler", you're talking about where you remove the main cap to the radiator, right ?

Yep, the main filler cap.

And when you used pepper - how much ?

Enough to stop the leak. But seriously, it used to work for me as a quick fix (just to get me through the race meeting), then I would get the radiator fixed properly.

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Just fix it right, Mick. Trust us when we say that stop leak type stuff is very temporary and very well may end up causing you a lot more cooling system problems down the road. Just keep a close eye on it and keep topping it off until you can afford the radiator. You're in FL, right? It's not like you even need antifreeze, just dump water in the ***** till you can afford to fix it right or else you're going to cause yourself additional long term expenses.

Rather than run the risk of running out of coolant, and seizing the engine, why not go to a wrecking yard and see if they have a replacement radiator? If you do get one, take it to whoever fixes radiators in your area and have them service it / check it for leaks, then just swap the old with the 'new'.

Mick, even for you, it would only take a couple of hours!

Edited by SkinnedAussie
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Rather than run the risk of running out of coolant, and seizing the engine, why not go to a wrecking yard and see if they have a replacement radiator? If you do get one, take it to whoever fixes radiators in your area and have them service it / check it for leaks, then just swap the old with the 'new'.

Mick, even for you, it would only take a couple of hours!

Oh I definitely agree but just gaining what I could from the tenor of his posts, it didn't seem like that was going to happen. If you are going to keep driving it, Mick, be very, very careful about staying on top of the coolant level. You don't want to wind up with a roasted head.

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Thanks, I'm looking for a temporary fix that would last actually a few months, because it'll take that long to afford a new radiator.....also, I'm no longer in FL....relocated to NC, recently.....so, I guess if I pour too much of a water ratio in it, where the weather is cold, it can freeze up, right ?

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Edit: As to the problem, I think you're saying that the car won't crank at times. If your battery and charging system are in good condition (and the fact that it usually works indicates it probably is) then I would think your starter is on its way out. Do all the lights go dim and there's just a clicking noise when it won't start or does everything seem normal outside the engine not cranking? If everything else seems normal, the next time it happens try giving the starter a few love taps with a hammer and see if it starts then.

The car simply wont get past the starting phase. It will turn but wont crank sometimes. I am sure if I go out and try to start her car now it will turn right over, but an hour ago it wouldnt turn over at all.

True. From the way I'm reading it, the car will occasionally not crank at all but I agree, we need some clarification on the symptoms before we can offer any real advice.

When it has this problem sometimes when it gets started I have to give it a good gas push and it will sound like it is about to conk out and then be fine for days.

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Thanks, I'm looking for a temporary fix that would last actually a few months, because it'll take that long to afford a new radiator.....also, I'm no longer in FL....relocated to NC, recently.....so, I guess if I pour too much of a water ratio in it, where the weather is cold, it can freeze up, right ?

It would need to get in the 20's and stay there for hrs,but it certainly will freeze and push out the freeze plugs or worse

If ya can't afford replacing it,just use the alumaweld

and follow directions

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And throw in a scrambled egg for additional protection, like Aussie said ?

I would skip the egg or pepper,but they are good short term emergency fixes

never seen a minor leak alumaweld wouldn't fix.

Wonder how some bacon would go with that?...this threads making me hungry.

Edited by twa
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