The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread

[Springfield]

The job's done. One of DLSF's motorhead friends came over and did it for tacos. He disconnected an end of the top radiator hose and pinned it out of the way. He took out the plastic fan assy on the right side. He unplugged that grey electronic plug thing way on the right side of the photo. From there he was able to reach in and feel the top bolt. And remove it. The bolt was coming at the starter from the opposite direction as the bottom bolt :doh: So the bolt head was way over on the right. Plus he changed the oil and fixed the plaster bumper corner that DLSF managed to rip loose last winter. The whole thing took him about 2 hours plus driving time to Advanced Auto.

I gave him $100 cash. And tacos.

Thanks for your help, guys!

Good one Mark. I'm glad the motorheads got some tacos out of the deal.

[Titaw]

Do I have any concern now?

2007 Chrysler Seabring 79,000 miles

In March I had a serious condition where the car was idling rough and the check engine light was flashing. I took it to the dealership to get the scheduled maintenance and the mechanic told me that the engine was sludged up, I was losing compression in cylander #3 and I was getting blow by. He also told me that due to neglegence it would not be covered under warranty and it could cost anywhere from $400-$4,000 to repair. Well, I asked what could I do to get it to be covered under warranty. They told me to flush and change the oil at least 3 or 4 times. I picked up the Gunk Motor Flush, Gumount Complete Fuekl System Cleaner, Synthetic Blend oil, FRAM High Mileage Oil Filter and BG MOA.

I have changed to Penzoil's full synthetic with cleaning agents and use only Shell gasoline. Now the car runs like a dream, no rough idle, no check engine light and no blow by. Everytime I change the oil I use the motor flush first, change the oil, add BG MOA. I also use the Gumount CFSC at this time as well. I hope I have dodged a bullet that could have been extremely expensive, but I got insanely lucky.

[Chump Bailey]

I'm all for them.

(from page 2)

Thanks - I keep reading about how they should be avoided and that the manufacturer (Honda in my case) does not recommend them. They can cause more problems down the road.

[twa]

Thanks - I keep reading about how they should be avoided and that the manufacturer (Honda in my case) does not recommend them. They can cause more problems down the road.

I don't use them unless there is a specific problem(usually caused by improper maintenance/abuse) and see no need if the vehicle is not abused/neglected.

But I'm also cheap and lazy...but it works for me;)

[DCsportsfan53]

Thanks - I keep reading about how they should be avoided and that the manufacturer (Honda in my case) does not recommend them. They can cause more problems down the road.

Yeah, I agree. Especially on the engine flush part. First of all, if you're reasonable about oil changes your engine should never need a flush and most of the time an engine flush will result in leaky seals throughout the engine and sometimes unexpected failures.

[Brad_Edwards_Fan]

The exhaust probably smells very heavy of fuel because it's running super rich. There could be a fuel control problem causing that. If I remember correctly, there is a thermostatic switch on the throttle that often fails causing a super rich running condition.

The converter is not your problem. When converters fail, they don't smell like fuel and the smell usually gets worse the hotter it gets. When converters fail, they smell like sulfur (or rotten eggs).

By corroded, I assume you mean rusted. It sounds like you are talking about the heat shield around the converter. There is no problem there, the rust is normal. You can try and replace the shields or remove them.

Also, is the Check Engine Light on? If it isn't, you can certainly rule out a failed converter. If it is, I'd scan for codes and begin your diagnosis there.

Hey thanks for the help... no check engine light on. And yes, it is just the very outer shield that is rusted out. I was thinking of just putting a couple of pipe clamps around it to take care of the rattleing. Is that a suitable solution to that problem?

Edited June 22, 2009 by Brad_Edwards_Fan

[sideshow24]

2002 Subaru Outback. Small leak from a freeze plug is dripping onto the exhaust. I'm not losing much coolant at all but the smell is pretty bad once I stop the car. What are your thoughts on block sealer? Is it effective?

A few I looked at require flushing the coolant system completely since coolant interferes with the sealing process. Is draining the radiator and overflow tank and flushing them with water enough or do I need to do more?

[Springfield]

Do I have any concern now?

2007 Chrysler Seabring 79,000 miles

In March I had a serious condition where the car was idling rough and the check engine light was flashing. I took it to the dealership to get the scheduled maintenance and the mechanic told me that the engine was sludged up, I was losing compression in cylander #3 and I was getting blow by. He also told me that due to neglegence it would not be covered under warranty and it could cost anywhere from $400-$4,000 to repair. Well, I asked what could I do to get it to be covered under warranty. They told me to flush and change the oil at least 3 or 4 times. I picked up the Gunk Motor Flush, Gumount Complete Fuekl System Cleaner, Synthetic Blend oil, FRAM High Mileage Oil Filter and BG MOA.

I have changed to Penzoil's full synthetic with cleaning agents and use only Shell gasoline. Now the car runs like a dream, no rough idle, no check engine light and no blow by. Everytime I change the oil I use the motor flush first, change the oil, add BG MOA. I also use the Gumount CFSC at this time as well. I hope I have dodged a bullet that could have been extremely expensive, but I got insanely lucky.

If that is working for you currently, I'd stick with it.

The only reason a CEL (check engine light) would come on flashing is because of a misfire condition. In most cases a misfire condition is caused by a failed ignition component (spark plug, ignition wire, ignition coil, etc.). A very common failure on those cars are the ignition coils. They have a coil over each individual plug. I admit that I was rather surprised when you said that oil was the issue (and I wouldn't be surprised if it comes back in the form of a bad coil).

[Springfield]

Thanks - I keep reading about how they should be avoided and that the manufacturer (Honda in my case) does not recommend them. They can cause more problems down the road.

I don't use them unless there is a specific problem(usually caused by improper maintenance/abuse) and see no need if the vehicle is not abused/neglected.

But I'm also cheap and lazy...but it works for me;)

I have heard several times that new Honda transmissions should not be flushed. I can say from first hand experience that we have flushed hundreds of newer Honda transmissions (that require ATF Z1) with out one problem. We have many return customers who have never had a problem with thier transmissions.

My opinion on Honda's is that they can be flushed, but they have to be flushed using Honda ATF Z1. Their transmission fluid is incompatible with standard Mercon/Dexron ATF.

Yeah, I agree. Especially on the engine flush part. First of all, if you're reasonable about oil changes your engine should never need a flush and most of the time an engine flush will result in leaky seals throughout the engine and sometimes unexpected failures.

As far as engine flushes... I've seen them clean out entirely nasty crank cases (4.0L Jeep comes to mind) very well. I don't think that they are necessary at all as long as the oil is changed regularly.

[big#44]

alright. last week i put some eibach springs on my car. everything was fine, smooth ride no weird noises until today. going over certain bumps i get this horrible clunk from the front end. the thing is it isnt on every bump only some. and it seems to happen more often when the front drivers wheel hits the bump. i havent had a chance to jack the car up and look around yet, but i figured id ask you just to get your thoughts. i made sure to install the springs sitting the same way as the OEM springs, but could they not be sitting right and making the noise? i should also mention that all bolts were torqued down correctly so i dont think its that but im going to check again.

[Springfield]

2002 Subaru Outback. Small leak from a freeze plug is dripping onto the exhaust. I'm not losing much coolant at all but the smell is pretty bad once I stop the car. What are your thoughts on block sealer? Is it effective?

A few I looked at require flushing the coolant system completely since coolant interferes with the sealing process. Is draining the radiator and overflow tank and flushing them with water enough or do I need to do more?

Is the freeze plug readily accessible?

If it is, i'd just replace it and not worry about using the "stop leak". I am mostly against stop leak when a normal repair can be done without too much trouble.

I try to stay away with any sort of block sealer because they have the potential to cause problems. Not saying that they will cause problems, but I'd rather make a repair without having to add something to my cooling system that may or may not help.

If the freeze plug doesn't require hours of labor to replace, why not just replace it instead?

[Springfield]

alright. last week i put some eibach springs on my car. everything was fine, smooth ride no weird noises until today. going over certain bumps i get this horrible clunk from the front end. the thing is it isnt on every bump only some. and it seems to happen more often when the front drivers wheel hits the bump. i havent had a chance to jack the car up and look around yet, but i figured id ask you just to get your thoughts. i made sure to install the springs sitting the same way as the OEM springs, but could they not be sitting right and making the noise? i should also mention that all bolts were torqued down correctly so i dont think its that but im going to check again.

What kind of car do you have?

It is certainly possible that something could have shifted during the reinstall. I would recheck the work you did (I know, it's a pain in the ass) to see if anything shifted. It is possible that a strut mount could have been weak and when you tightened everything back down, it broke it.

I've heard mixed reviews on Eibach (and other) spring modifications. I had a set of Eibach's on my old car. It was louder than stock when going over hard bumps but not loud enough to concern me.

[big#44]

its a caliber srt4. yeah, tomorrow im going to go and check everything. maybe its a loose bolt? but im not so sure cause i only undid 3 bolts on each side and im usually not one to forget to loosen a bolt but ill check. 1 was for a little sensor thingy, the other one connected the stabilizer bar to the strut and the other one was the big one that held the the strut to the control arm. it almost sounds like my stabilizer bar is banging around, that'll be the first thing i check.

i knew going in that suspension modifications would bring some noise, but what worries me is that it drove and sounded fine for a week, and i just got the noise today.

Edited June 24, 2009 by big#44

[Springfield]

its a caliber srt4. yeah, tomorrow im going to go and check everything. maybe its a loose bolt? but im not so sure cause i only undid 3 bolts on each side and im usually not one to forget to loosen a bolt but ill check. 1 was for a little sensor thingy, the other one connected the stabilizer bar to the strut and the other one was the big one that held the the strut to the control arm. it almost sounds like my stabilizer bar is banging around, that'll be the first thing i check.

i knew going in that suspension modifications would bring some noise, but what worries me is that it drove and sounded fine for a week, and i just got the noise today.

I'd check the sway bar and also the strut tower nuts. It's possible that they loosened up and need to be retorqued.

Nice car too. Very underrated. I once wanted an SRT-4 (Neon). Very fast for very cheap.

Edited June 24, 2009 by SpringfieldSkins

[Chump Bailey]

I have heard several times that new Honda transmissions should not be flushed. I can say from first hand experience that we have flushed hundreds of newer Honda transmissions (that require ATF Z1) with out one problem. We have many return customers who have never had a problem with thier transmissions.

My opinion on Honda's is that they can be flushed, but they have to be flushed using Honda ATF Z1. Their transmission fluid is incompatible with standard Mercon/Dexron ATF.

As far as engine flushes... I've seen them clean out entirely nasty crank cases (4.0L Jeep comes to mind) very well. I don't think that they are necessary at all as long as the oil is changed regularly.

Thanks again - I'll hit you up for one more question if you don't mind. What would you recommend be included in a tuneup for a 2007 Civic with 65K? What should I be looking out for? The car is under warranty to 120K and this dealership does not enjoy doing anything that does not involve making them money. They're pretty bad. I had a broken engine mount, and if they knew beforehand that it was under warranty, I get the distinct feeling it would not have been mentioned.

Thanks and great thread idea...

[sideshow24]

Is the freeze plug readily accessible?

If it is, i'd just replace it and not worry about using the "stop leak". I am mostly against stop leak when a normal repair can be done without too much trouble.

I try to stay away with any sort of block sealer because they have the potential to cause problems. Not saying that they will cause problems, but I'd rather make a repair without having to add something to my cooling system that may or may not help.

If the freeze plug doesn't require hours of labor to replace, why not just replace it instead?

Unfortunately no. I'm told you have to pull the transmission to get to it.

[big#44]

I'd check the sway bar and also the strut tower nuts. It's possible that they loosened up and need to be retorqued.

Nice car too. Very underrated. I once wanted an SRT-4 (Neon). Very fast for very cheap.

ill check everything when i go out there. thanks again. just one more question. on the instructions it said that if you dont align the spring the right way on the strut on macpherson front suspensions it could cause noise. now i made sure to seat them the right way but is it possible they could have moved or spun a little bit? i figured they were in there good and werent going anywhere but i figured id ask.

edit: nevermind. it was a loose bolt on the sway bar end link. i little 15mm bolt was causing all that noise. but all is good now, no more clunks!!

Edited June 24, 2009 by big#44

[SellersHappens]

For a while, I've had a very reliable 1994 Toyota Camry that has worked like charm for many years. However, last weekend my car overheated, and me being the stupid person that I was, I thought I could drive a new miles to the nearest service station. As I soon learned, this was a horrid idea as my car shutdown in the middle of the road. After getting my car towed and opening the hood, I soon notice that my radiator has sprung a leak. The next day I had my radiator and thermostat replaced, and the car starts just fine. I lucked out, I thought.

The next day however, my car does not start, and when a car repair service looks at it, they show to be that coolant was in the engine, meaning the problem was a blown head gasket. I was given a $1500 quote for the engine repair, which is worth more than the car itself. This really surprsed me as the engine started and ran fine the previous day. I took a taxi to work the following day and I find out that the taxi driver is also a used car dealer, and he claims that he know people that would replace a blown head gasket for $200.

My questions:

1) If my car has a blown head gasket, why did it start right after the radiator was replaced?

2) After talking with the first mechanic, it seemed like the parts themselves for the repair work would be over $200, and reviewing other websites, it seeems like $1000+ is the nom for head gasket repair. Am I correct in assuming that the $200 offer is very likely a scam?

[#98QBKiller]

I just found out yesterday that I can take my key out of the ignition and my car will continue to run. Is there anything wrong with this? I tried it while sitting in park and it kept running so when I got into my neighborhood I tried it while driving and it still worked.

Does this point to anything that may need work or is it just a thing that some vehicles do?

[twa]

I just found out yesterday that I can take my key out of the ignition and my car will continue to run. Is there anything wrong with this? I tried it while sitting in park and it kept running so when I got into my neighborhood I tried it while driving and it still worked.

Does this point to anything that may need work or is it just a thing that some vehicles do?

The pins in the cylinder are worn or sticking, nothing 'wrong' unless ya lose your key;)

To correct have the key cylinder replaced by a mechanic or locksmith,but long as the ignition locks with the key out it is not a issue ...yet

you can try flushing the key cylinder with wd-40 and perhaps help it.

Edited June 24, 2009 by twa

[Springfield]

Unfortunately no. I'm told you have to pull the transmission to get to it.

Well, give the stop leak a whirl. Hopefully it works and hopefully there aren't any ill effects.

[Springfield]

edit: nevermind. it was a loose bolt on the sway bar end link. i little 15mm bolt was causing all that noise. but all is good now, no more clunks!!

Awesome man. Glad it was easy.

[Springfield]

My questions:

1) If my car has a blown head gasket, why did it start right after the radiator was replaced?

My assumption is...

It started because the coolant hadn't had a chance to flood the cylinders yet. You drove it and any coolant leaking into the cylinders was being burned off during combustion. It is also possible that the head gasket wasn't leaking when the car was hot (with expansion).

Now after the radiator is replaced and you drive it around, you let it sit all night. The coolant has a chance to leak into the cylinders when sitting all night and causes the problem the following morning when you go to start it up.

2) After talking with the first mechanic, it seemed like the parts themselves for the repair work would be over $200, and reviewing other websites, it seeems like $1000+ is the nom for head gasket repair. Am I correct in assuming that the $200 offer is very likely a scam?

You are quite right about the price. $200 makes it sound like the taxi driver either doesn't know what he's talking about or is trying to scam you.

To properly perform a "head job" the head must come off and be checked at a machine shop for warpage (slight bend resulting in a poor seal between the head and the block) and internal leakage. It is probably a good time either way to mill the head (make it completely flat) and perform a valve job. The spark plugs should be replaced among other minor things.

At my shop, a "proper" head job definitely costs in excess of $1000. All these things need to be done in order to ensure the quality of the repair.

[Springfield]

The pins in the cylinder are worn or sticking, nothing 'wrong' unless ya lose your key;)

To correct have the key cylinder replaced by a mechanic or locksmith,but long as the ignition locks with the key out it is not a issue ...yet

you can try flushing the key cylinder with wd-40 and perhaps help it.

Correct answer.

[Capt. Kaos]

I have looked all over the interwebz for a 3rd brake light cover for my Saturn Relay (2005) and I can not for the life of me find one. Are they called something else? Am I an idiot?

Mine is cracked completely in half and barely hanging on, Help!