Malapropismic Depository Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 8 hours ago, twa said: trannys are mysterious things. like I said it might just be a plugged filter or stuck valve minor leaks are not unusual but it needs fluid to move,two quarts low and it can behave like yours NO DRIVE OR REVERSE (VEHICLE WILL NOT MOVE)1. Fluid Level Low. 1. Add fluid and check for leaks if drive is restored.2. Gearshift Linkage/Cable Loose/Misadjusted. 2. Inspect, adjust and reassemble linkage as needed. Replace worn/damaged parts.3. U-Joint/Axle/Transfer Case Broken. 3. Perform preliminary inspection procedure for vehicle that will not move. Refer to procedure in diagnosis section.4. Filter Plugged. 4. Remove and disassemble transmission. Repair or replace failed components as needed. Replace filter. If filter and fluid contained clutch material or metal particles, an overhaul may be necessary. Perform lube flow test. Flush oil. Replace cooler as necessary.5. Oil Pump Damaged. 5. Perform pressure test to confirm low pressure. Replace pump body assembly if necessary.6. Valve Body Malfunctioned. 6. Check and inspect valve body. Replace valve body (as assembly) if any valve or bore is damaged. Clean and reassemble correctly if all parts are in good condition.7. Transmission Internal Component Damaged. 7. Remove and disassemble transmission. Repair or replace failed components as needed.8. Park Sprag not Releasing - Check Stall Speed, Worn/Damaged/Stuck. 8. Remove, disassemble, repair.9. Torque Converter Damage. 9. Inspect and replace as required. Thanks twa and Springfield. That was both helpful and hopeful. I don't think it was the fluid level, because it was never even a full quart low. Is there anything on that list of troubleshooting that is easy to perform, in order to name or eliminate a diagnosis ? I'm just trying to find some possible peace of mind, to assure myself it's not going to cost a couple thousand when I bring it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 you could remove the pan and change the filter and fluid, not too difficult or expensive but rather messy. what you find in the pan and fluid usually tells ya something. #3 on the list is usually rather obvious or noisy #5 on up gets more difficult and best left to mechanics 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malapropismic Depository Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 Thanks, I really appreciate all the thorough detail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malapropismic Depository Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 On 7/1/2017 at 8:56 PM, Springfield said: My first thought was the shifter cable, or rather the bushing that connects the cable to the lever on the transmission. Have it checked out and report back. Reporting back, and it was the Shifter Cable. He said it was actually a small piece of plastic that went bad, at the end of the cable, about the size of a thumbnail, and would cost only a dollar. But of course, the manufacturers don't make those small parts anymore, and only sell the whole cable. But still I'm relieved, because it only cost $300, and I was prepared for something possibly much worse. Thanks again for the suggestions on possible causes, which gave me a sense of hope before the repair, and kept me from panic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 They actually do sell those little things aftermarket, glad it was nothing serious though. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted July 6, 2017 Author Share Posted July 6, 2017 1 hour ago, Malapropismic Depository said: Reporting back, and it was the Shifter Cable. He said it was actually a small piece of plastic that went bad, at the end of the cable, about the size of a thumbnail, and would cost only a dollar. But of course, the manufacturers don't make those small parts anymore, and only sell the whole cable. But still I'm relieved, because it only cost $300, and I was prepared for something possibly much worse. Thanks again for the suggestions on possible causes, which gave me a sense of hope before the repair, and kept me from panic. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportjunkie07 Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 (edited) Car died yesterday while driving. Didnt smell, hear or notice anything out of the ordinary. Just complete lost of engine power as I drifted to a parking spot. Car wouldn't restart after that and I had to be at work so didn't have time to troubleshoot. Most of the dashboard lights did come on as I drifted to the parking spot. This can only be a few things right? Fuel related- pump, fuel in tank Air- an o2 sensor perhaps? Electrical- alternator, a blown fuse or another sensor that prevents running, spark plugs? Engine was running perfectly fine and I had half a tank of gas on the guage. 06 sentra spec v 110k miles. Edited August 13, 2017 by sportjunkie07 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 i'd guess fuel pump or fuel filter you should be able to hear the pump make a short buzz when you first turn on the key. They have a lot of problems with the camshaft sensor going bad ,will need to pull code to tell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportjunkie07 Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 (edited) 38 minutes ago, twa said: i'd guess fuel pump or fuel filter you should be able to hear the pump make a short buzz when you first turn on the key. They have a lot of problems with the camshaft sensor going bad ,will need to pull code to tell It started right up. Drove about 5 miles and gave it a good cycling through the gears. No problems. Filled it up with gas. Car died in my neighborhood. Yeah I recognize that buzz. With this car it's like the pump has to be primed before starting. I always turn the key halfway and stop for a split second then turn the key all the way. Didn't notice a problem with that procedure. Just gave it another shot... started right up. At least I've got it in my garage now. Check engine late came on yesterday after the engine power initially went out. It remains on. Edited August 13, 2017 by sportjunkie07 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 8 minutes ago, sportjunkie07 said: It started right up. Drove about 5 miles and gave it a good cycling through the gears. No problems. Filled it up with gas. Car died in my neighborhood. Yeah I recognize that buzz. With this car it's like the pump has to be primed before starting. I always turn the key halfway and stop for a split second then turn the key all the way. Didn't notice a problem with that procedure. Junkie, i think all you need is a new battery. This exact situation happened to me. When you leave the car on while filling it with gas, my car stopped while driving as well. It took about 24 hours for me to be able to drive it again. Pretty much the entire battery died while doing so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportjunkie07 Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 4 minutes ago, skinfan2k said: Junkie, i think all you need is a new battery. This exact situation happened to me. When you leave the car on while filling it with gas, my car stopped while driving as well. It took about 24 hours for me to be able to drive it again. Pretty much the entire battery died while doing so I tuned the car off while putting gas in. The battery seems fine to me. Radio and AC all work while the engine is off. Electronics in general seem normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 If the check engine light is on then scan the codes. If I'm not mistaken, Sentras have a lot of problems with both the cam and crank sensors causing random stalling issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportjunkie07 Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 (edited) 21 minutes ago, Springfield said: If the check engine light is on then scan the codes. If I'm not mistaken, Sentras have a lot of problems with both the cam and crank sensors causing random stalling issues. Yeah I'm reading up on that. Seems there was a recall at some point. Not sure if the previous owner took care of it. Don't really want to risk driving to auto zone and stalling out again then not be able to restart. But I don't think I have a lot of options. Looks like autozone rents their readers. 250$ but you get it back when you return it. Edited August 13, 2017 by sportjunkie07 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 1 hour ago, sportjunkie07 said: Yeah I'm reading up on that. Seems there was a recall at some point. Not sure if the previous owner took care of it. Don't really want to risk driving to auto zone and stalling out again then not be able to restart. But I don't think I have a lot of options. Looks like autozone rents their readers. 250$ but you get it back when you return it. Depending on how far away, it might be worth the risk to drive. That's all up to you though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinsmarydu Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 If you don't "know a guy", call a mobile mechanic. We have a few in ATL, hopefully you have some in your area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 dealership says I need a new tie-rod (I trust this dealership). Says part is on order, it'll be a few days. It's relatively safe to drive on it while the part comes in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted October 16, 2017 Author Share Posted October 16, 2017 49 minutes ago, Elessar78 said: dealership says I need a new tie-rod (I trust this dealership). Says part is on order, it'll be a few days. It's relatively safe to drive on it while the part comes in? If they didn’t explicitly tell you that it was unsafe then I’d assume that it is probably safe to drive on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 2 hours ago, Springfield said: If they didn’t explicitly tell you that it was unsafe then I’d assume that it is probably safe to drive on. How many hours of labor involved? Part doesn’t look super expensive. Was quoted $150 for the whole job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted October 16, 2017 Author Share Posted October 16, 2017 14 minutes ago, Elessar78 said: How many hours of labor involved? Part doesn’t look super expensive. Was quoted $150 for the whole job. That seems like a fair price to me. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 4 hours ago, Springfield said: That seems like a fair price to me. youre right. I need to step off. I just looked up the part and saw it was inexpensive but $100 is probably an hourly rate. I just need to step off and let a pro do it and pay him what he's worth. 6 hours ago, Springfield said: If they didn’t explicitly tell you that it was unsafe then I’d assume that it is probably safe to drive on. BTW, if you saw a car wasn't safe to drive out of your shop, is there any legal way you could keep the owner from driving off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 Just now, Elessar78 said: youre right. I need to step off. I just looked up the part and saw it was inexpensive but $100 is probably an hourly rate. I just need to step off and let a pro do it and pay him what he's worth. They typically markup the part(I do 25%) and hr minimum and then if they set the toe-in ya are getting a bargain from a mechanic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinsmarydu Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 37 minutes ago, Elessar78 said: BTW, if you saw a car wasn't safe to drive out of your shop, is there any legal way you could keep the owner from driving off? I'm sure there's an "I'm not responsible for anything other than blah-blah". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted October 16, 2017 Author Share Posted October 16, 2017 35 minutes ago, Elessar78 said: BTW, if you saw a car wasn't safe to drive out of your shop, is there any legal way you could keep the owner from driving off? In Virginia, I don’t think so. Professionally, I try to be very up front with people. There are a lot of things that can fail a VA safety inspection that don’t make the car undrivable. There are very few instances where I will outright tell a customer that their vehicle should not be driven. I’ll tell them the possible consequences, breaking more parts in their car, tire could blow out. Ultimately, it’s up to the individual. Quick hint: Usually the ones who don’t care about the safety of their vehicles are the ones who can’t afford to fix it anyhow. 4 minutes ago, skinsmarydu said: I'm sure there's an "I'm not responsible for anything other than blah-blah". Thats too “scare tactic”ish for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinsmarydu Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 2 minutes ago, Springfield said: Thats too “scare tactic”ish for me. Me too, hence my shade-tree awesome dude. We're in GA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 Is it acceptable for drivers of Asian descent to a) drive a car without a spoiler and b. drift? Asking for a friend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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