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Fuel system cleaning


BALLz

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So I just took my car to a nearby Jiffy Lube to get an oil change. No big deal really, but the guy did say he recommended a fuel system cleaning. When asked what that would run he said it would be about $75. I wasn't prepared to spend that so I passed. I'm not sure if he noticed anything in particular or was just going on the mileage(61000)

My question is, do those more knowledgeable recommend I do this some time soon or would a couple $5 bottles of cleaner from an Auto store be as effective.

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Personally I would never listen to any recommendations by a Jiffy Lube guy, or any quick oil change place. They just want you to do the service so they can make extra $. Not that mechanics at other places don't do that too, but I would think the Jiffy Lube guys would be more likely to screw you over.

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Have you noticed a decline in your MPG?
No, I haven't. Been pretty steady between 28 and 30 mpg
This has kept my 97 Grand Am running pretty good. Everytime you get an oil change, empty a bottle of STP fuel injector cleaner into your gas tank. I swear, your car will run as if you just had a tuneup for a while.

So your recommendation is to just use some fuel injector cleaner from the store.

I guess my main question is whether whatever a jiffy lube or any auto shop would do is worth it. Or if blue collar's method is all you need.

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No, I haven't. Been pretty steady between 28 and 30 mpg

So your recommendation is to just use some fuel injector cleaner from the store.

I guess my main question is whether whatever a jiffy lube or any auto shop would do is worth it. Or if blue collar's method is all you need.

Of course if you have a more serious problem, nothing from a store is gonna help. But if your car is running fine, I'd ignore the Jiffy Lube mechanic. Like someone already said, those quick oil change places just want you to go there so they can tell you that you have major problems with your car.

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Like blue collar, I use an additive every oil change. I use Seafoam. It is a little more expensive than STP, but I think it is worth it.

If you have not noticed any drop in MPG, and are not experiencing any sluggishness or rough idling, I would not worry about having any kind of special service done. And even if you are, I would run an additive through first and see if it helps before paying for a shop to do the service.

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Waste of money, IMO.

Not necessarily, but in most cases, yes. You are going to have buildups on fuel injectors and such because there is so much garbage in gas these days. Running an additive through the system or using a better grade of gas will help, but if it goes on for a while with no corrective action taken, it can become an issue.

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Hmm, my motor seems fine but I've noticed a definite decline in my highway mileage. It used to be that I'd get 23 on the highway but now I hope for 20.9 or 21+ depending on the speed. I also used to be able to be put it on cruise at a good rate of speed and still get mileage. Now I have to be down in the 60s to get the good rate.

They told me at the dealership to get a fuel system cleaning but then I've also read how people didn't notice a difference and that it's just a way to make money on you. They said my transmission fluid looks a little dirty and recommended a flush and replace soon but I really only have money for one of those, I think.

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Doesn't matter if it's a Jiffy Lube or similar place or not, I'd never automatically do what a mechanic recommends. The majority of them are liars, and are out to make an unethical buck, just as much as the Jiffy Lubers. Just because the other mechanics know more about your car, doesn't mean that they're not going to try to intentionally screw you.

I can't count the times various mechanics told me that I needed hundreds of dollars worth of "extra" repairs, besides what I took the car in for, and I went on to drive the car for years with no problem, related to what they recommended

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Fuel System cleaning is a scam.

The Jiffy Lube cleaning goes like this:

Oil additive, fuel tank additive, and then they suck another additive into your PCV valve. It's crap.

You want to clean your fuel system? Put high test in every 5th fill up. It burns hotter and cleans out gunk. Then keep your valves and fuel filter changed about every 30K and keep your oil changed every 7500 miles.

For fuel milage, get a tune up every 60k and replace your air filter every 20k.

*ex jiffy lube employe*

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Once I took my car in for a repair. And the shop said, "We determined your car needs a tune-up as well"....And I'm like, "I JUST tuned it up myself, last week. I DO NOT need a tune-up, thank you"

I could have told them what scummy liars they were, but didn't feel it necessary.

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So I just took my car to a nearby Jiffy Lube to get an oil change. No big deal really, but the guy did say he recommended a fuel system cleaning. When asked what that would run he said it would be about $75. I wasn't prepared to spend that so I passed. I'm not sure if he noticed anything in particular or was just going on the mileage(61000)

My question is, do those more knowledgeable recommend I do this some time soon or would a couple $5 bottles of cleaner from an Auto store be as effective.

Generally, most places like Jiffy Lube recommend all services by mileage using those manufacturer specs that are best for them.

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"Fuel system cleaning" is a good thing, by whatever name it is called. As long as it's done right.

At my shop we use BG products. The BG service is called a Fuel Induction Service. It uses a machine to atomize the chemicals that get injected right in front of the throttle body. Those atomized chemicals will soften up carbon deposits and allow them to be burned through normal combustion. These carbon deposits form anywhere from the throttle body all the way back through the intake manifold, on the intake valves and in the combustion chamber. These carbon deposits form through normal combustion and will build up over time.

A little bit of information on vehicles that would be important before you pass judgment on a "fuel system cleaning".

Vehicle have many input and output sensors and actuators that will help the vehicle run as well as possible. These sensors and actuators can help mask the symptoms of carbon build up.

If carbon is built up through out the induction system, it will effectively restrict flow. This restricted flow is counteracted though. The IAC (Idle Air Control) valve opens wider to allow more air to flow at idle allowing the appropriate target idle speed. The carbon will build up until the IAC cannot open any wider. Also, carbon built up on the throttle plate itself can cause the throttle to stick shut.

If carbon is built up on the intake valves, it will also restrict flow. Carbon deposits take up space, so when the intake valves open the volume of air and fuel flowing in isn't as much. Carbon also acts as a sponge, this means that some of the fuel will be soaked up by the carbon on the intake valves. This means that the fuel injectors will have to spray more fuel (read, stay open longer) in order to get to the appropriate air/fuel mixture.

If carbon builds up in the combustion chamber, it will take up space in the combustion chamber, meaning an increased compression. Increased compression is a good thing right? No! Especially when everyone is looking for the cheapest gas possible (read, 87 octane), they will not switch to a better fuel (read, more expensive) in order to maintain performance. So, when they stick with the old "regular", the knock sensor detects engine knock because of the increased compression. When the knock sensor detects engine knock, it retards the timing, this leads to poor performance.

Right there are three negative effects of carbon build up. Three very major negative effects. Three effects that decrease both engine power and fuel economy. They are facts.

So I will leave you with this. If your car was built in the last 10 years, the best "tune up" you can do is a "fuel system cleaning". For the money, it will give you the best dollar for dollar benefit. That is, if the "fuel system cleaning" was performed properly.

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Those atomized chemicals will soften up carbon deposits and allow them to be burned through normal combustion. These carbon deposits form anywhere from the throttle body all the way back through the intake manifold, on the intake valves and in the combustion chamber. These carbon deposits form through normal combustion and will build up over time.

If carbon is built up through out the induction system, it will effectively restrict flow.

The carbon will build up until the IAC cannot open any wider. Also, carbon built up on the throttle plate itself can cause the throttle to stick shut.

If carbon is built up on the intake valves, it will also restrict flow.

Carbon deposits take up space, so when the intake valves open the volume of air and fuel flowing in isn't as much.

Carbon also acts as a sponge, this means that some of the fuel will be soaked up by the carbon on the intake valves.

If carbon builds up in the combustion chamber, it will take up space in the combustion chamber, meaning an increased compression.

Right there are three negative effects of carbon build up. Three very major negative effects. Three effects that decrease both engine power and fuel economy. They are facts.

Damn, Carbon sucks for sure.

Carbon is of the Devil.

So, why not just use Carbon-Free Gas, and not have to worry about all that ?

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What if you're This guy ???

If you are that guy, you are a freakin' whack job. Kind of like of the people who I have seen at my shop who have a car that runs on straight ethanol or claims he converted his car to run on water.

Sorry, it's just weird and I am far from impressed when you do stupid stuff like that to your perfectly operating automobile.

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