d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 (edited) About to walk a mile or so to Walmart to pick up some fuel additive. Guy at the shop recommended STP Fuel Additive. Will scoop some Seafoam up too. About to play eenie meenie miney moe to figure out which to use first. Car had a very subtle hiccup on the way back from the shop, or maybe I'm just paranoid. In fact I definitely am paranoid, hence walking to the store instead of driving. I'd drive, traffic is just the worst during lunchtime around here. Don't want to cause a 270 style backup. Been sitting here with my car on for 10 minutes, pressing on the gas every so often. No symptoms. I'd like to think the new oil will have a healing effect on my baby... Edited April 6, 2016 by d0ublestr0ker0ll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 (edited) Stroker, does Walmart sell ignition modules? Used them on my daily beater Accord and have never had an issue. Wouldn't put them on my trailblazer ss though.I've seen plenty of defects. No biggie to me. Edited April 6, 2016 by Springfield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Most GM ignition modules just go out in my experience.....not that it is any less likely than gas/fuel filter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 STP Ultra 5 in 1 Fuel System Cleaner is in. Front desk guy said they closed a valve or something that could've been causing the issue. Says on here they sealed the chassis lubrication. I didn't see any ignition modules, although I did a quick scan because of the hurry I was in. Will look around for 'em. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 STP Ultra 5 in 1 Fuel System Cleaner is in. Front desk guy said they closed a valve or something that could've been causing the issue. Says on here they sealed the chassis lubrication. I didn't see any ignition modules, although I did a quick scan because of the hurry I was in. Will look around for 'em. They won't. You'd have to get it at a parts store. That's just my bet as far as what's wrong with your ride. Once it's fixed, I'm interested to find out if I was right or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 (edited) Welp, it finally happened. She broke down and won't restart. The funny thing is, I'm actually more happy right now than anything. I made it to my place, all the way from work (an entire 9 miles), before she cut off. Then she restarted and I decided right there to drive around the block and see how soon the next shutdown would happen. Not a half mile later it happened again...then the third time was the dagger. Had to put her in neutral and glide back to my place an eighth of a mile. Won't start. At least I got home. Edited April 7, 2016 by d0ublestr0ker0ll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 The car started today and I made it 4 miles to the nearest shop. Most jittery drive of my life, even worse than my first time ever on the roads. Car always acts up right at the 9 mile mark. I live 9.1 miles away from work, and it always starts to die right before I'm home and at work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted April 7, 2016 Author Share Posted April 7, 2016 So have someone check it out and let me know what they say! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 7, 2016 Share Posted April 7, 2016 (edited) So have someone check it out and let me know what they say! They are, last trip was to the shop. Left it there, got a ride home. He said it could be several things, and I told him I heard it could be a failing ignition module or a bad fuel filter. He agreed. Edited April 7, 2016 by d0ublestr0ker0ll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 (edited) They called me back, says he knows what's shutting it off. Says when the system starts to get hot the Catalytic Converter and some clogged tubes are making it shut off. Replacement converter and other parts + labor is estimated at $750. Thoughts? Edited April 8, 2016 by d0ublestr0ker0ll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 High imo for a converter, but ya would need to know what other tubes is I can get a aftermarket converter installed here for $200 at a muffler shop....I'm sure it is a bit higher there I've never seen a converter shut down a car that seems to run fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 High imo for a converter, but ya would need to know what other tubes is I can get a aftermarket converter installed here for $200 at a muffler shop....I'm sure it is a bit higher there I've never seen a converter shut down a car that seems to run fine I read this on one of the websites I was researching on today: Yes, it can cause a car to stall. Bad Catalytic Converter – Symptoms Rotten Egg Smell Decreased Power Black Exhaust Smoke Loss of Power Going Uphill Engine Runs Hotter than Usual Hesitating or Bucking When you Try to Accelerate Everything I bolded was happening. Quality of acceleration was declining, every time I lost power I was going uphill, engine was running hotter than usual, definitely bucking when trying to accelerate. What I gathered is that a bad converter makes the engine heat up to the point of cutting out. I'll call them now with a pen to write with so I can jot down precisely what else he wants to replace. There were 2 or 3 more things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted April 8, 2016 Share Posted April 8, 2016 what it does is become clogged/restricted and exhaust cannot go thru thus killing the engine. the usual sign is bogging down when accelerating Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Okay, you sound spot-on towards what the mechanic said, twa. He is going to clean out the converter, not replace it. Says it's totally stuffed with crap. He is going to replace the EGR valve and tube, replace the crank shaft positioning sensor, and replace the mac airflow sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 That's a lot of stuff to replace 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 That's a lot of stuff to replace seems like he aught to throw in a ignition module and fuel filter I coulda swore he said this car was running good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 (edited) Either of you think they could be overblowing all these needs for more $? Place has great reviews on the ratings websites. Car was running normally the first couple trips it shut off. Symptoms got worse and more varied over the course of the week, to the point where the entire ride back from letting the fuel additive sit in there was extremely nerve wracking. The end of that trip is where it died 4 times in a span of 5 min, which is when it finally wouldn't start back up. Next morning it started again, so I took it to the current shop it's at. I'll get the filter and module changed for good measure soon. Edited April 9, 2016 by d0ublestr0ker0ll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 hard to say from here the cat plugging is caused by something(probably EGR valve), little odd to have another two more but either or both could be the fuel filter is a yearly or so thing imo springfield would know more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 (edited) They said yesterday that the car would be ready this afternoon, I called them and got no answer. I went up there at 5:30pm and my car was on the lift with the front right tire off. I went in and they said the same thing was happening, dying at 8 miles and starting back up. The last place I went to said they blocked off the EGR valve and the mechanic today showed me what they did it with - a piece of cardboard. Said that could've blown the engine up, and it fried the valve. With the valve unblocked it's still shutting off and turning back on at 8 miles. He's working on the crank shaft positioning sensor right now. I asked about the fuel filter and ignition modules. Said the ignition module has nothing wrong with it and he hasn't checked the fuel filter yet. Edited April 9, 2016 by d0ublestr0ker0ll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 Cool. Interested to see what turns out. These intermittent issues can be a pain in the ass to figure out. If it's frustrating for you, it's probably equally frustrating for them. Keep that in mind if it seems like it isn't fixed at the flick of a switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Cool. Interested to see what turns out. These intermittent issues can be a pain in the ass to figure out. If it's frustrating for you, it's probably equally frustrating for them. Keep that in mind if it seems like it isn't fixed at the flick of a switch. It's not, I am a steady dude irl and treat them with respect and patience. I wasn't frustrated or anything that it wasn't done today. Keep telling them to take their time. What's your opinion of the first shop I went to last week blocking off the EGR valve with a piece of cardboard? The front desk guy at that place did tell me that they blocked it off, and they didn't charge me for it, but the mechanic today said it was a big red flag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 (edited) Blocking off an EGR valve is just masking another problem. It's not a proper repair. Essentially, they would do that because it helped the car run better at the time, not because it fixed the problem at its root. I wouldn't advise going back to a place that would block of lf the EGR like that. Edited April 10, 2016 by Springfield 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d0ublestr0ker0ll Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Car made it to work without turning off today, feels a little better but I'm still super paranoid. Something seems off about her when accelerating still, maybe it's just me. The Service Engine Soon light came on halfway thru the drive and stayed on. There's also a weird metal on metal rattling happening underneath the passenger's side now. I'm taking it back up to the shop tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Harris Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 Mechanic says i have a small tear in a cv boot. They estimated 2.6 hours to do the work. My side guy says that they usually don't just replace the boot, but put in a new axle shaft with boot already on. Which is right? If the side guy is right, what would i need? I am searching rockauto.com, i se axle shaft, axle shaft bearing, axle shaft seal and cv half shaft assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 generally they just replace the cv half shaft assembly since the grease has been slung out for who knows how long, or rebuild it with new bearings and boots depends on if you want factory or aftermarket. much cheaper to rebuild than buy one from a dealer,but a aftermarket is not much higher than a rebuild so both are right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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