sportjunkie07 Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 (edited) you can try flushing it with wd-40 ect, and trying a spare key or having another cut possiblyaside from that,levering the key slightly up and down while rocking the steering wheel sometimes works or flag down a thief with a slidehammer to pop it out i have tried moving the steering wheel while fidgeting the key. i can get it to go backward occasionally, but cant get it to go all the way forward anymore. i was about to try the wd-40. and i figured that it's worth getting a new key cut to at least see if that works, though i doubt it, since the new cut will be based on the old worn key. fyi, i bought it at King of Cars in Pasadena. Edited January 17, 2012 by sportjunkie07 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 i have an 03 chevy cavalier (automatic), and i cant turn the key. the car is in park, i have tried moving the steering wheel, and tapping the key into the column (to loosen tumblers) with a mallet.this problem was first noticed as i was attempting to start the car and drive it out of the used car dealership (go figure). it took me about 5 minutes to get the key (which looks very worn) to turn, and i figured it was just a little touchy and i needed to get used to it. ive been trying to get the key to turn for a couple hours now, to no avail. all signs are pointing to a replacement of the locking mechanism, which is pretty pricey.. suggestions? I'd try a new key first. If that doesn't help then you're right, it probably is the lock cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 new cut keys are usually slightly larger take the worn key and shove it up the car lot managers ass.(no,I don't know him) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 (edited) i think someone hit my car over the weekend, i see an indent but i see no paint. just as if someone punched that area. Edited January 17, 2012 by skinfan2k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sportjunkie07 Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 (edited) I'd try a new key first. If that doesn't help then you're right, it probably is the lock cylinder. new cut keys are usually slightly largertake the worn key and shove it up the car lot managers ass.(no,I don't know him) got a key made at walmart last night.. was skeptical but it started on the first try. youre right the new key is about 2 millimeters larger in length than the old one. thanks, $1.98 is much better than $650.00 Edited January 17, 2012 by sportjunkie07 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 glad to hear it....especially after the mallet bit frustrating as hell ain't it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtdrums Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Mini-emergency question (split from insurance thread): Is there such a thing as a torsion bar on the rear of a 2004 Ford Explorer? I just spoke with my great mechanic pal, and he said off the top of his head, it seems like the 2004 Explorer doesn't have a torsion bar, but he wasn't sure - I'm not giving the go ahead to replace something that the mechanic at the shop doesn't even know what to call the right name after their previous screw ups, so I'm just looking for confirmation one way or another. Google seems to indicate my mechanic pal is right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 My mechanic recently told me that i need to have my front and rear struts assembly replaced. The cost he gave me was economy parts were $1150 and for premier parts $1500. I am not sure whether or not these costs are correct and if this is even warranted to do for a car with 130K. Please let me know. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 My mechanic recently told me that i need to have my front and rear struts assembly replaced. The cost he gave me was economy parts were $1150 and for premier parts $1500. I am not sure whether or not these costs are correct and if this is even warranted to do for a car with 130K. Please let me know. Thanks! The prices seem about right depending on the car. It's hard to say whether the struts need to be replaced or not but 130K is not out of the ordinary. Struts will lose their ability to dampen the shock to the vehicle very slowly over time. This is something that the driver hardly ever notices until somebody says something to them. A weak strut will mean reduced handling ability and longer braking distances. If they are leaking then they should definitely be replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 (edited) The prices seem about right depending on the car. It's hard to say whether the struts need to be replaced or not but 130K is not out of the ordinary. Struts will lose their ability to dampen the shock to the vehicle very slowly over time. This is something that the driver hardly ever notices until somebody says something to them. A weak strut will mean reduced handling ability and longer braking distances. If they are leaking then they should definitely be replaced. Not leaking but the mechanic says definitely weak. not sure to put this money into a tercel when my sister might be buying a new car in the next year or so. which is the main difference between premier and economy? quality of parts? Can you recommend on where i can get this done? Also which brand should i be looking to buy? Monroe, KY Edited April 14, 2012 by skinfan2k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 Not leaking but the mechanic says definitely weak. not sure to put this money into a tercel when my sister might be buying a new car in the next year or so. which is the main difference between premier and economy? quality of parts? Can you recommend on where i can get this done? Also which brand should i be looking to buy? Monroe, KY KYB is definitely the best brand. I wouldn't really view the investment in new struts to be worth it if you are going to be getting a different car soon. Especially if they aren't leaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 KYB is definitely the best brand. I wouldn't really view the investment in new struts to be worth it if you are going to be getting a different car soon. Especially if they aren't leaking. In reality,we want to keep the car for another few years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted April 14, 2012 Author Share Posted April 14, 2012 In reality,we want to keep the car for another few years. It's a toss up then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 It's a toss up then. Thanks Springfield, besides Maaco, are there any other places that can paint a car? We were thinking if we fix the struts and paint the car, my sister will keep the car lol. The engine is in perfect condition Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 my sister just bought a new car. Is paint sealant really worth it? The dealer is charging us for paint sealant and body molding on the doors for $549. is that a decent price? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
#98QBKiller Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Does anyone have a ballpark of what rotors and pads/shoes would cost on a 2000 Blazer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Itoolu Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Hello, I dont really post on here but spend most of my free time reading and learning on this site. I have a 2002 Honda Odessey with 150,000 miles on it and the transmission just blew on a family vacation about 150 miles from home. After doing some research I have learned that this is very common for the Odessey and that mine actually lasted alot longer than most. I bought this van thinking its a Honda it will run forever, though this is the first major problem I have had. Anyway my question is has any other Odessey owners on here experienced this before and if any mechanics have worked on these. I found a shop that will install a remanufactured Jasper transmission with a 100,000 mile/ Three year warranty for $3,800.00 give or take a few dollars. Is this a good price? Is it a good Transmission? Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumrunner6900 Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 Bumpy, bumpy! Good morning mechanical folks! Hopefully all the smart brains here on ES can help me figure something out. 2008 Lincoln Continental with a coolant leak. Best I can tell, it is actually coming out at the reservoir cap. This is the leak I can clearly see....there may be another. When I am driving, the heat blows nice and hot. When stopped...no heat. Any ideas on what is going on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 Bumpy, bumpy!Good morning mechanical folks! Hopefully all the smart brains here on ES can help me figure something out. 2008 Lincoln Continental with a coolant leak. Best I can tell, it is actually coming out at the reservoir cap. This is the leak I can clearly see....there may be another. When I am driving, the heat blows nice and hot. When stopped...no heat. Any ideas on what is going on? Is it overheating?....if not you probably just need to replace the cap(spring loaded to release pressure) and fill with coolant the heat stopping could be a vacumn leak or simply air pocket from coolant leaking need more info, but you can have both the cap and system pressure tested for leaks...or wait till it cools,fill while running at operating temp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumrunner6900 Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 is it overheating?....if not you probably just need to replace the cap(spring loaded to release pressure) and fill with coolantthe heat stopping could be a vacumn leak or simply air pocket from coolant leaking need more info, but you can have both the cap and system pressure tested for leaks...or wait till it cools,fill while running at operating temp Thanks for answering! It isn't overheating at all. And playing around with the cap today, when it is on tight, nothing comes out, but when the heat is on high and the cap is off, the coolant pours out of the opening. This is after driving it around for 10 minutes or so. I was hoping it may be a quick and easy fix, but it sounds like I may have to break down and take it in sometime soon....the weather isn't getting any warmer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 when you say' When I am driving, the heat blows nice and hot. When stopped...no heat.' do you mean it turns to cold air or stops blowing or what? it has a air blend door behind the dash that is a common problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumrunner6900 Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 The air keeps blowing, but turns cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 probably the air blend door then, you can try to look under the hood for a cracked vacumn line,,usually a black plastic (or listen for it), but other than that a mechanic is best Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolblue13 Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 00' Chevy Malibu 3.4L AT. Cold start engine reves up to 2k and back down. Up and down, up and down. Once it's warm, it's fine. What gives? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted December 19, 2012 Author Share Posted December 19, 2012 00' Chevy Malibu 3.4L AT.Cold start engine reves up to 2k and back down. Up and down, up and down. Once it's warm, it's fine. What gives? Most likely an intake manifold gasket (or manifold) that is leaking air into the engine. Second thought would be a failing idle air control motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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