The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread

[Springfield]

Well I can see that twa has been busy. I'll be giving my own input here briefly.

[I_Bleed_B&G]

gf owns a 91 Ford Explorer. First- this thing is a beast and I have no idea why it still runs. The damn thing leaks oil like a faucet that is turned on. which leads me to this question-

What is the best thing to clean all the oil off so I can figure out where the leak is coming from? I tried a liquid degreaser- didn't really do much. I don't want to scrub the entire engine, so looking for something that I can spray or pour on it, let it soak and rinse off. I know, asking for a lot- but any suggestions would help.

where are you trying to clean the oil? on the engine itself or under the car? Brake or carb cleaner works great for me

[Springfield]

So I have a 2006 Pontiac G6 83,000 miles on it. When I have been going highway speeds and I start to brake to slow down, my car vibrates. I replaced the front brakes and had the rotors shaved about 20,000 miles ago. I put top of the line ceramic brake pads on because I found out the semi-metallic pads I had put on previously were crap (thank you autozone for recommending that junk). I still have the semi-metallic pads on the back because I have not had a need to replace them quite yet. It feels like the vibration is coming from the front of my car and my first thought was the rotors were getting warped but I have a hard time believing that since I just had the work done 20,000 miles ago. Anyone have any thoughts?

Probably warped rotors due to the top of the line ceramic brake pads

Ceramics and cast iron rotors combined with heavy braking=warpage

lotta heat buildup with ceramics

Sorry twa but I have to disagree with you. I think that the problem may be more to do with the thickness of the rotors than the composition of the "top of the line" brake pads.

Ceramic pads are certainly good. Much better than semi-metallic pads in my opinion. I've never seen a set of ceramic brake pads cause a vibration. What I have seen cause a vibration are poor workmanship (not using a torque stick on the lug nuts, not lubricating the caliper slides), brake rotors that are too thin and emergency braking.

Vibration is caused when the brake rotors are warped. Warping meaning that the brake rotors are not completely flat. Several things can cause a brake rotor to become warped. An uneven torque when mounting a wheel to the rotor can give the rotor a slight "wobble" resulting in a warped brake rotor. A sticking brake pad can cause the rotor to overheat resulting in a warped rotor. A rotor that is too thin can lose it's ability to dissipate heat and warp. An emergency stop can overheat the rotors to the point they overheat.

Most of the time, rotors warp because they overheat. Plain and simple. I wouldn't automatically blame it on the "top of the line" brake pads.

[Springfield]

Can an off alignment do damage to your rotors?

Nope.

Twa nailed this one.

[Springfield]

is the service engine soon light a big deal?

You won't ever know until you have it checked.

The SES (Service engine soon) or CEL (check engine light) comes on for a multitude of different reasons. Anything from a loose gas cap to a bad catalytic converter to a worn spark plug can cause that light to come on. When the light comes on there will be a trouble code stored as to why the light came on. That particular code will state the malfunction found and the area of needed repair. It is up to the technician to figure out what is causing the trouble code and thus your SES.

There are quite a few things that can cause the SES to come on that the car's computer can mask so that you won't know any difference when driving your car. Some of these things can be quite harmful to your engine if left unchecked. Some of them won't have any impact at all.

You live in VA... depending on where you live, you will have and emissions inspection requirement to renew your tags. If the SES/CEL is on and your vehicle is a 1996 or newer, it will fail. Just one more thing to think about.

Bottom line, in my opinion... it may not be doing any damage and you may be able to drive with the light on for a while but I certainly think it is worthwhile to know why it is on. That way you can make an informed decision on whether or not you want to have it fixed.

[Springfield]

perhaps the rotors should have been replaced instead of turned?

My thoughts exactly.

[Springfield]

Just got a 2000 Honda accord V6, and check engine light comes on shortly after I fill up. Ussually shuts off when I get really low on gas. I put 87 octane in it, is it possible that the light comes on due to fuel grade? Do you reccomend using a higher grade gas?

Secondly I need to get my timing belt switched at 105,000K, what would be a reasonable price for parts and labor? And what would be a reasonable price if I was to supply part?

Thanks for the help.

The grade should not effect it, I would think it is a problem with the fuel vapor recovery system..but w/o a scan it is beyond my help and guessing vapor cannister

They do have several tsb's out on them (Technical Service Bulletins)

Perhaps someone else can help.

PAGING Springfields...lol

I agree with twa. My first thought would be an EVAP canister a.k.a. vapor canister. Those things fail all the time and they come with more or less all of the other components in the EVAP system when you buy them as well.

It could have nothing to do with the EVAP system though. I'd have the code checked before replacing anything.

As far as the timing belt. I'm pretty certain that it is 4 hours labor to replace the belt. Most shops in my area charge between $80 and $120 per hour. So for labor, anywhere between $320 and $480? That's labor alone.

I would (and any other shop should) recommend to replace at least the water pump if not the water pump and the cam and crank seals. That's another 2.5 hours for those. So between $200 and $300 for those? That's also labor alone.

That is why I don't like setting anyone expectations as to what they will pay for service. Just in labor for that picture, the Honda is looking at somewhere between $520 and $700. That's one hell of a variation.

Throw in somewhere between $150 and $250 in parts and you have my best guess at somewhere between $770 and $1050 once taxes/disposal/shop supplies are all thrown in.

[Springfield]

gf owns a 91 Ford Explorer. First- this thing is a beast and I have no idea why it still runs. The damn thing leaks oil like a faucet that is turned on. which leads me to this question-

What is the best thing to clean all the oil off so I can figure out where the leak is coming from? I tried a liquid degreaser- didn't really do much. I don't want to scrub the entire engine, so looking for something that I can spray or pour on it, let it soak and rinse off. I know, asking for a lot- but any suggestions would help.

We use a pressure washer and a heavy duty de-greaser. Just watch out for the distributor cap and the ignition coil and you should be able to clean it damn well.

[Springfield]

where are you trying to clean the oil? on the engine itself or under the car? Brake or carb cleaner works great for me

I only use a brake cleaner for spot cleaning. I don't ever use carb cleaner. Carb cleaner is highly flammable. I know from first hand experience.

[ljs]

the whole damn thing is covered in oil. I think we put a quart in every 3-4 weeks. I'm thinking just a seal- we drive this thing 55 miles a day (our round trip commute) and it seems to be holding up. I thought it would die out in March-but not yet.

I'll try a heavy power washer. I wonder if the car wash engine washers will work. Haven't tried them.

[Prosperity]

You won't ever know until you have it checked.

The SES (Service engine soon) or CEL (check engine light) comes on for a multitude of different reasons. Anything from a loose gas cap to a bad catalytic converter to a worn spark plug can cause that light to come on. When the light comes on there will be a trouble code stored as to why the light came on. That particular code will state the malfunction found and the area of needed repair. It is up to the technician to figure out what is causing the trouble code and thus your SES.

There are quite a few things that can cause the SES to come on that the car's computer can mask so that you won't know any difference when driving your car. Some of these things can be quite harmful to your engine if left unchecked. Some of them won't have any impact at all.

You live in VA... depending on where you live, you will have and emissions inspection requirement to renew your tags. If the SES/CEL is on and your vehicle is a 1996 or newer, it will fail. Just one more thing to think about.

Bottom line, in my opinion... it may not be doing any damage and you may be able to drive with the light on for a while but I certainly think it is worthwhile to know why it is on. That way you can make an informed decision on whether or not you want to have it fixed.

thanks, I'll go to autozone and see what what they can figure out

[Springfield]

thanks, I'll go to autozone and see what what they can figure out

Cool.

They will likely tell you what code it is but nothing else. Come here and tell me what code they pulled from your car (plus what the year, make and model is) and I should be able to send you in the right direction.

[apickmans]

HELP!

My AC has stopped working. I drive a 2003 Toyota Celica. Driving in this heat sucks. Was just wondering how much this would run me to fix? Ive been lucky with my car and this is the first major problem with it. I know taking it to Dealer will cost me more than taking it to local shop but I want to make sure its fixed right. What should I do?

My car antenna is also stuck and makes an annoying sound for a good 15 seconds because it cant uncoil, but thats the least of my worries for right now. I can still listen to the radio. Im more worried about having to drives with Windows open!

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[twa]

Fixed right is open to interpretation;)

No way to tell w/o more info,but the usual culprit is a leak which can be as cheap as a couple hundred or run in the thousands.

Or it could be as simple as a switch out

You must have it checked for pressure and the circuitry to know where to begin.

The antenna sounds like ya need a new mast or assembly (broken nylon cable inside it)

[LaxBuddy21]

My thoughts exactly.

The rotors were not in horrible shape and the car had 60,000 miles on it. There should have been no need to replace the rotors that soon.

[twa]

The rotors were not in horrible shape and the car had 60,000 miles on it. There should have been no need to replace the rotors that soon.

Turning the rotors thins it out,thereby weakening it..it could also have had minute stress cracks.

Combine that w/ceramic pads (which generate higher heat) and it is not surprising.

I always recommend new rotors if you change to ceramics,certainly if the need much surfacing(machining)

Then again it could be a result of improper torquing as Springfields mentioned

Have you spoken to the shop that did the repairs?

Edited July 29, 2009 by twa

[LaxBuddy21]

Turning the rotors thins it out,thereby weakening it..it could also have had minute stress cracks.

Combine that w/ceramic pads (which generate higher heat) and it is not surprising.

I always recommend new rotors if you change to ceramics,certainly if the need much surfacing(machining)

Then again it could be a result of improper torquing as Springfields mentioned

Have you spoken to the shop that did the repairs?

The problem is the shop did the repairs sort of under the radar so I could get a good deal since my brother in law worked there. He doesnt work there any more so I dont think it would be good to go back to ask them to fix anything. I guess I will just have to take everything apart and look at it. Thanks for the input!

[apickmans]

Fixed right is open to interpretation;)

No way to tell w/o more info,but the usual culprit is a leak which can be as cheap as a couple hundred or run in the thousands.

Or it could be as simple as a switch out

You must have it checked for pressure and the circuitry to know where to begin.

The antenna sounds like ya need a new mast or assembly (broken nylon cable inside it)

Ah gotcha. Only other info I got is when i press the AC button on the dashboard it blinks which lets me know theres something wrong. I dont know if youre familiar with Toyota Celicas. Wow I sure dont want to have to pay thousands to have my AC fixed, yikes.

How much do you think a new mast or assembly would cost?

Thanks again for all your help

[twa]

Ah gotcha. Only other info I got is when i press the AC button on the dashboard it blinks which lets me know theres something wrong. I dont know if youre familiar with Toyota Celicas. Wow I sure dont want to have to pay thousands to have my AC fixed, yikes.

How much do you think a new mast or assembly would cost?

Thanks again for all your help

Thousands is probably excessive(but not unheard of)

Take it in for a estimate only,or specifically to check.top off the refrigerant level...even at a dealer that should not be too high,but ask for cost in advance.

from what I recall toyota comes with dye already in the system which should help determining where it is leaking(if it is)

Could simply be a relay sticking or a dirty air filter(both common problems w/toyota

Mast is probably 45$ with a hr labor if that...labor rates vary

added

you could look in the manual and check the ac relay and filter yourself rather cheaply,other than that it get complicated.

Edited July 29, 2009 by twa

[ljs]

91 ford explorer- I was just driving it after work. Stopped to get gf, went to resart and as it was turning over, my hand slipped so it didn't turn over completely. Now, icant start it at all. No juice whatsoever. The door locks won't even work. I got a ride home and didn't even attempt to jump start. Maybe it's that simple?

[twa]

91 ford explorer- I was just driving it after work. Stopped to get gf, went to resart and as it was turning over, my hand slipped so it didn't turn over completely. Now, icant start it at all. No juice whatsoever. The door locks won't even work. I got a ride home and didn't even attempt to jump start. Maybe it's that simple?

I would guess starter solenoid stuck/bad,or perhaps the starter drive hung up

Could be a ignition switch problem or loose battery connection,but doubtful

Try jumping it or perhaps tapping on the starter w/a hammer if that does not work

You can also jump across the solenoid to test it,but that is a bit hazardous

I'd bet on the starter drive hung

this the one with the big oil leak? if so starter hung is even more likely

Edited July 30, 2009 by twa

[ljs]

I'd bet on the starter drive hung

this the one with the big oil leak? if so starter hung is even more likely

yeah same one.

gf tells me this happened a couple years back and it was something like a vapor lock.

This car qualifies for the cash for clunkers. We are car shopping this week. I have a 4 Runner- so I'm going to talk her into a fuel economy car.

[squatch66]

not sure if you know much about tires springfield but i am needing to get a set of tires for my truck('96 ranger). there really isnt much of a selection due to the size of my tires(225/70/14) but i have narrowed it down to either a firestone firehawk indy 500, primewell ps680(i think its a firestone house brand because i have only seen it at firestone stores), and a road hugger radial g/t. the road hugger and the firehawk are both 55k warranty while the primewell is only 40k. which one would be the best tire? i only really drive from home to work and school, no offroad or anything like that and no hot rodding it.

edit: one other question. is it worth it to pay the extra for the road hazard warranty?

Edited July 30, 2009 by squatch66

[ljs]

plan was to shop for cars tonight and turn in the clunker....it died at the gas station on the way to work. Can't get it jumped, has new battery from this weekend. making a very strong clicking noise. Does nothing if not hooked up to my truck's battery. I'm screwed for the Cars deal if I can't get it running at least to the dealer. So...you say hit it with a hammer? really hard? Any other temp fixes so I can at least get it a couple miles??

[twa]

Yes, tap around the back of the starter while someone tries to start it(in park w/the brake on please:silly:)

Tap ,not beat the hell out of it....That's the second stage;)

you could try hooking the jumper cable to the starter side of the solenoid (on the inside of the fender) but I don't think that is your problem(CAUTION: doing so engages the starter,so make sure it is in park or neutral w/the brake on)

Edited August 4, 2009 by twa