The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread

[Springfield]

SpringfieldSkins,

I have a 2003 Ford Escape that I bought with 70,000 miles on it. It currently has 80,000 miles on it. There were no service records that came with the car, so I have no idea what kind of scheduled maintenance was done on the car prior.

Anyway, I've changed the oil and oil filter at the recommended 5,000 mile intervals. Ford's maintenance schedule recommends that the automatic transmision fluid be changed (flushed?) at 150,000 miles. This seems like a lot of miles before this is done. Now, the maintenance schedule that I have is for "normal" driving conditions. Not sure what the definition of that is or what kind of condition the previous owners (two of them) drove in.

My question: should I have a transmission flush done before the recommened 150,000 miles? Am I just wasting my money by doing it now?

Thanks.

What I would do?

I would check it out to begin with. See what may or may not be wrong with it both safety and maintenance wise. Prioritize what you see and take it from there. Get the oil changed regularly until you get to 90K miles. At 90K there is probably a rather large maintenance service that will take care of most, if not all, of your maintenance issues.

As far as the transmission fluid. I most certainly think it should be flushed prior to 150K. Check the fluid before you have it flushed though. The fluid should be nice and pink. If it's brown or black it should be flushed. No need to flush a fluid that is in good condition already. If the transmission seems to be slipping or shifting improperly, you'll probably want to see somebody before you have it flushed.

Hope that gives you some insight. Sorry it took me so long to get back to you all.

[TrumanB]

As far as the transmission fluid. I most certainly think it should be flushed prior to 150K. Check the fluid before you have it flushed though. The fluid should be nice and pink. If it's brown or black it should be flushed. No need to flush a fluid that is in good condition already. If the transmission seems to be slipping or shifting improperly, you'll probably want to see somebody before you have it flushed.

Hope that gives you some insight. Sorry it took me so long to get back to you all.

Thanks. I'll check the color of the fluid.

[Mickalino]

If I'm about to go on a long trip with an older model car, what are all the things I should check on the car, before the trip ?

[Springfield]

If I'm about to go on a long trip with an older model car, what are all the things I should check on the car, before the trip ?

What kind of car? Year, make, model?

As far as what should usually be checked. I'd check tires (pressure and tread), brakes (if possible), all fluid levels, belts, hoses, light bulbs and suspension (if possible). I may add more depending on what kind of car you have.

[grhqofb5]

Question: I have a 2002 Ford Explorer Sport, manuel transmission. In the past 2 weeks, I've noticed a burning smell coming from under the hood. It smells like burning clutch fluid or something of that nature. My father noted that my radiator fluid was low the other day, so we put some more antifreeze in the resevoir. I noticed today that the fluid level has diminished about 1/2 an inch in the last 3 days. I have not noticed anything leaking under the car. I've had this problem (the smell) before and it went away on its own, but never checked to see if the antifreeze level changed.

My question is: Does the level of radiator fluid in the reservoir change depending on certain conditions? Can you determine what problem I may have?

Thanks.

[Slacky McSlackAss]

I'm looking to lower my car about an inch and a half. I found the shocks that I will be replacing the stock ones with. How hard of a job is it to replace? I know I'll need a spring compressor, but is there anything else I'll need? I'd like to avoid taking it to a shop if it can be done at home, but am willing to take it in if its gonna be too much work.

[twa]

grhqofb5, ya might have a bad radiator cap,which will vent when pressure builds(resulting in the smell and level changing)

THe level should not change w/o a leak or bad cap

Be good to check out the hoses and weep hole on the water pump for seepage though.

[Springfield]

Question: I have a 2002 Ford Explorer Sport, manuel transmission. In the past 2 weeks, I've noticed a burning smell coming from under the hood. It smells like burning clutch fluid or something of that nature. My father noted that my radiator fluid was low the other day, so we put some more antifreeze in the resevoir. I noticed today that the fluid level has diminished about 1/2 an inch in the last 3 days. I have not noticed anything leaking under the car. I've had this problem (the smell) before and it went away on its own, but never checked to see if the antifreeze level changed.

My question is: Does the level of radiator fluid in the reservoir change depending on certain conditions? Can you determine what problem I may have?

Thanks.

In most cases the level of the fluid inside the reservoir will not change. It is more of an "expansion tank" in most cars to be honest. In most cases the tube that comes from the radiator goes directly to the expansion tank and that is all. If the vehicle begins to overheat it will build up more pressure and the radiator cap will open (remember physics, more heat = more pressure) and allow the coolant to expand (or overflow) into the reservoir. The radiator cap is designed to open up at a specific pressure in case of overheating...

Some systems have the reservoir integrated into the cooling system in order to provide a more accurate reading. These types of systems normally have no radiator cap and the cap on the reservoir has a pressure relief of sorts.

I am not sure which one you have.

It is very likely that you have a coolant leak of some sort. If you've had to add coolant twice now, it's very likely that it is going somewhere. Coolant doesn't just evaporate.

The system should be pressure tested. They will apply pressure to the cooling system that will equate or slightly exceed the pressure found at normal operating temperature. This will uncover 90% of cooling system leaks.

To answer the original question. The reservoir can sometimes be an accurate measure of the coolant level. A more accurate measure would be to remove the radiator cap (when the car is cold) and check the level directly.

[Springfield]

I'm looking to lower my car about an inch and a half. I found the shocks that I will be replacing the stock ones with. How hard of a job is it to replace? I know I'll need a spring compressor, but is there anything else I'll need? I'd like to avoid taking it to a shop if it can be done at home, but am willing to take it in if its gonna be too much work.

What kind of car do you have?

That will probably change my answer quite a bit. Most cars that somebody would want to lower have struts (springs that sit on the strut) instead of shocks.

As far as lowering any car. With enough know-how, anybody can do it. There are a few things you need to be aware of though if you're dropping it 1.5 inches.

Let me know what's up, I'm not going to be on all night.

[Slacky McSlackAss]

What kind of car do you have?

That will probably change my answer quite a bit. Most cars that somebody would want to lower have struts (springs that sit on the strut) instead of shocks.

As far as lowering any car. With enough know-how, anybody can do it. There are a few things you need to be aware of though if you're dropping it 1.5 inches.

Let me know what's up, I'm not going to be on all night.

2008 Nissan Sentra. I found a lowering kit online that says it will lower the car between "1 and 1.5"

[Springfield]

2008 Nissan Sentra. I found a lowering kit online that says it will lower the car between "1 and 1.5"

First and foremost, make sure you buy name brand ****. That Ebay **** is whack and you'll cry trying to make it work.

I'm almost 100% sure that it has struts all the way around.

You will need a spring compressor. Replacing the struts isn't all that hard. There are probably 7 or 8 bolts to replacing it. It will take some wiggling, some strength and sweat. It can certainly be done all by yourself if you have enough will-power.

A couple of things that you need to know though. If you lower the car, you will need to pay attention to the alignment and the rest of the suspension. When you lower a car it will change the camber angle. Camber is the angle that the tire leans inside or out. When you lower the car the camber will go negative (lean in at the top) because of the shortened height of the strut/spring. This will mean that the inner edge of your tires will wear out a lot faster than the outer edge. You can buy a camber kit (which will allow for adjustment of camber) to make sure that the camber isn't wearing out your tires insanely fast. The camber kit of course needs to be installed and adjusted. You will certainly need to take it in to a shop so that they can use super accurate machines to adjust it properly.

There is a whole science to lowering a car and doing it right. Any more questions?

[Springfield]

PS Slacky: I personally recommend Eibach. I've used Eibach springs before and quite like them.

[Slacky McSlackAss]

PS Slacky: I personally recommend Eibach. I've used Eibach springs before and quite like them.

Yeah, the kit im looking at is an Eibach.

http://www.autoanything.com/suspension-systems/61A2549A0A0.aspx?kc=ffproduct&from_search=1

Looks like i'll have to take it in to a shop. Time to start making calls to see which friend can get me the best deal.

[Springfield]

Yeah, the kit im looking at is an Eibach.

http://www.autoanything.com/suspension-systems/61A2549A0A0.aspx?kc=ffproduct&from_search=1

Looks like i'll have to take it in to a shop. Time to start making calls to see which friend can get me the best deal.

I actually had the Eibach pro kit on my old car. I didn't have any problems with camber (or at least that many). I'd still get it aligned afterwards to make sure your camber is up to spec. You could probably do it yourself as long as you have a spring compressor. It's much easier when the car's up on a rack though.

I have nothing but good things to say about the Eibach pro kit though. It gave me the look I wanted and didn't make the ride too harsh.

Any other questions, let me know.

[grhqofb5]

In most cases the level of the fluid inside the reservoir will not change. It is more of an "expansion tank" in most cars to be honest. In most cases the tube that comes from the radiator goes directly to the expansion tank and that is all. If the vehicle begins to overheat it will build up more pressure and the radiator cap will open (remember physics, more heat = more pressure) and allow the coolant to expand (or overflow) into the reservoir. The radiator cap is designed to open up at a specific pressure in case of overheating...

Some systems have the reservoir integrated into the cooling system in order to provide a more accurate reading. These types of systems normally have no radiator cap and the cap on the reservoir has a pressure relief of sorts.

I am not sure which one you have.

It is very likely that you have a coolant leak of some sort. If you've had to add coolant twice now, it's very likely that it is going somewhere. Coolant doesn't just evaporate.

The system should be pressure tested. They will apply pressure to the cooling system that will equate or slightly exceed the pressure found at normal operating temperature. This will uncover 90% of cooling system leaks.

To answer the original question. The reservoir can sometimes be an accurate measure of the coolant level. A more accurate measure would be to remove the radiator cap (when the car is cold) and check the level directly.

Thanks for the quick info. I'll watch it closely and have my mechanic take a look at it in the next few days.

[BigMike619]

ok..here we go. im baffled by my problem.

i have a 94 Chevy Z-71 K1500 4WD. it has 180K on it but runs really well. every morning though when i start it up i let it warm up for a minimum of 5 minutes then drive to work. on my way to work after about 10 minutes on the freeway my service engine light will come on. sometimes it will go back off after 5 minutes and sometimes it will stay all the way on until i get to work which is about 15 minutes.

when i come out for lunch and start it up or when i go home the light is off and doesnt come back on. this doesnt happen every day either. all fluids (tranny, oil, coolant) have been drained and new ones put in less then 4 months ago and all are up to the levels they should be at. it doesnt slip, doesnt sputter and doesnt hiccup.

what could it be?

[twa]

The service engine light is emission related,have you had it tuned up ?(Plugs/wires/air filter)

Could be a number of things,but from what you describe it is running slightly rich(incomplete combustion)

Letting it idle for five minutes probably makes it worse in the morning.

[BigMike619]

The service engine light is emission related,have you had it tuned up ?(Plugs/wires/air filter)

Could be a number of things,but from what you describe it is running slightly rich(incomplete combustion)

Letting it idle for five minutes probably makes it worse in the morning.

why would it make it worse? seriously..

i just did all plugs, wires, cap and rotor not too long ago also. maybe 2 months.

what is your thought on it running rich. i put 89 octane in it..

[twa]

Since you already did plugs ect,you will probably need to have a mech look at it

Several sensors could be at fault,might even just be a o2 sensor,but hard to say w/o a scan

If it is running rich at idle it will build up carbon ect in the system,which gets burned clean after driving to work.

I assume you don't let it idle much at lunch or after work?

I'm guessing here:),perhaps SpringfieldSkins can help with a better idea

Have you tried driving w/o a long warmup? ...any change?

Edited January 29, 2009 by twa

[#98QBKiller]

I'm getting my Cat converter put on in a week and some change...but something else has come up...

I've been getting my ABS and parking brake lights coming on at the same time at random times. It's usually while I'm driving and hit a big bump in the road. They never come on when I start up my truck but it's always after I've been driving around.

They stay on until I turn off the engine, then the next time I go somewhere I'll crank it up and they'll be off.

Do you guys have any idea what this could be? I've checked online and can't find anything for my make and model (2000 Chevy blazer).

Also, I recently I had my brake pads/rotors replaced if that makes any difference, but I had the lights coming on before that.

[BigMike619]

I havent tried driving without a long warmup but I can do that. Ive thought about it being the O2 sensor too but havent checked in to it much. Since it doesnt do it much I think you could be on to something with the carbon buildup.

[twa]

99QBKiller, first check the fluid level

There is a sensor on each wheel as well as on the ABS unit,that could be dirty,or loose connection,or air in the lines if they disconnected it and didn't bleed it out.

[motorhead]

Several sensors could be at fault,might even just be a o2 sensor,but hard to say w/o a scan

/quote]

Yept most likely o2 sensor. I think your truck has 2. You need put it on an analyzer to know for sure.

[BigMike619]

Yept most likely o2 sensor. I think your truck has 2. You need put it on an analyzer to know for sure.

how hard is it to change them out?

[#98QBKiller]

99QBKiller, first check the fluid level

There is a sensor on each wheel as well as on the ABS unit,that could be dirty,or loose connection,or air in the lines if they disconnected it and didn't bleed it out.

Will take a look at it this afternoon and see.