The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread

[Mark The Homer]

Corrosion inside the cable can cause that as well.

Look at the connections and the insulation around them(swelling)

You can have the starter bench tested free at most parts stores before replacing it.

Hmm.

You're referring to the connections at the starter right? The connections at the battery look real clean.

I thought of corrosion on the cable too. Especially since this car was

1) in a car wreck,

2) declared totaled,

3) sat for about a year,

4) salvaged,

5) repaired, and

6) sold to me.

I'll check out the cable.

Thanks!!!

[Springfield]

Hmm.

Have fun... but I'd bet he's wrong. Good luck to you Mark.

[DeanCollins]

mark you've already bought the battery, might as well get a new starter and cables and complete the trifecta.

[twa]

:hysterical: Isn't that sound mechanic theory?

Replace everything till it's fixed:silly:

Ya ever get to that pitman arm DC ?

[heyholetsgogrant]

!!!!PROBLEM!!!!

During the winter my 2001 Volvo S40 takes around 10 cranks to turn over. I figured it was the battery (battery still had some juice), I replaced it. The problem still happens even after replacing the battery. What I have noticed is that when I put my foot on the gas while trying to start the car, the car starts, however when I take my foot off the gas the engine shuts off. However, when it is warm outside the car starts right away, usually on the first start. I brought the car into the shop to have a look at it, where they found nothing even after a diagnostic. Does anyone know what it could be? I am dreading bringing it to a Volvo dealer . Last time I went to a Volvo dealer they tired charging me $800 for a turbo leak.

BTW this video reminds me of my car in the winter:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-E8W...m=PL&index=102

Thanks for the help guys!

Edited April 6, 2009 by heyholetsgogrant

[Springfield]

!!!!PROBLEM!!!!

During the winter my 2001 Volvo S40 takes around 10 cranks to turn over. I figured it was the battery (battery still had some juice), I replaced it. The problem still happens even after replacing the battery. What I have noticed is that when I put my foot on the gas while trying to start the car, the car starts, however when I take my foot off the gas the engine shuts off. However, when it is warm outside the car starts right away, usually on the first start. I brought the car into the shop to have a look at it, where they found nothing even after a diagnostic. Does anyone know what it could be? I am dreading bringing it to a Volvo dealer . Last time I went to a Volvo dealer they tired charging me $800 for a turbo leak.

BTW this video reminds me of my car in the winter:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-E8W...m=PL&index=102

Thanks for the help guys!

I have two thoughts on your problem. First thought is a fuel problem. Either a failing fuel pump that takes too long to build up pressure or a leaking fuel injector that leaks into the combustion chamber with the engine off.

Second thought would be a false air leak. False are leak meaning that there is a vacuum hose or something else that is letting air into the intake after the MAF sensor (or what ever air metering device).

I'll try and check around a little bit and get back to you with any other possible solutions.

[Springfield]

I saw your thread... I'll add more here anyhow.

Fuel pressure regulator is also a possible problem. I'd check for fuel first, check the pressure both with the key on and then when cranking. If fuel is OK, I'd look for a false air leak or possible bad MAF (mass air flow) sensor.

That's all I've got for now.

[heyholetsgogrant]

I saw your thread... I'll add more here anyhow.

Fuel pressure regulator is also a possible problem. I'd check for fuel first, check the pressure both with the key on and then when cranking. If fuel is OK, I'd look for a false air leak or possible bad MAF (mass air flow) sensor.

That's all I've got for now.

Thanks Springfield, through my research, that's what I am leaning towards. The big problem I have is lots of trial and error attached to it, therefore causing potential build of repair costs.

Edited April 7, 2009 by heyholetsgogrant

[Springfield]

Thanks Springfield, through my research, that's what I am leaning towards. The big problem I have is lots of trial and error attached to it, therefore causing potential build of repair costs.

It can be expensive if you don't know how to properly diagnose it and end up just replacing parts to try and solve your problem. Ask MTH, I'm sure he's got some experience firing the old "parts gun".

This problem is especially compounded by the fact that you're working on a Volvo. Having a fuel pressure gauge is essential to properly diagnosing this situation.

Wondering how MTH's problem ended up by the way.

Edited April 7, 2009 by SpringfieldSkins

[DCsportsfan53]

!!!!PROBLEM!!!!

During the winter my 2001 Volvo S40 takes around 10 cranks to turn over. I figured it was the battery (battery still had some juice), I replaced it. The problem still happens even after replacing the battery. What I have noticed is that when I put my foot on the gas while trying to start the car, the car starts, however when I take my foot off the gas the engine shuts off. However, when it is warm outside the car starts right away, usually on the first start. I brought the car into the shop to have a look at it, where they found nothing even after a diagnostic. Does anyone know what it could be? I am dreading bringing it to a Volvo dealer . Last time I went to a Volvo dealer they tired charging me $800 for a turbo leak.

BTW this video reminds me of my car in the winter:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-E8W...m=PL&index=102

Thanks for the help guys!

Not sure what fuel management system Volvo uses but with VWs this type of problem can often be related to a coolant temperature sensor. I think Volvo uses Bosch stuff still, not really sure, but many systems use the coolant temp sensor to set mixture for cold start situations as the O2 sensor isn't hot enough to give a reading yet. If that sensor is failing it can report an innacurate coolant temp to the ECM and cause rough starts.

Edited April 7, 2009 by DCsportsfan53

[Springfield]

Not sure what fuel management system Volvo uses but with VWs this type of problem can often be related to a coolant temperature sensor. I think Volvo uses Bosch stuff still, not really sure, but many systems use the coolant temp sensor to set mixture for cold start situations as the O2 sensor isn't hot enough to give a reading yet. If that sensor is failing it can report an innacurate coolant temp to the ECM and cause rough starts.

Coolant temp sensor problems are a strictly VW type of problem. I've seen them a thousand times on VW... not once on a Volvo.

[BayouBrave86]

My car fails me again. First it was a starter problem and then a radiator hose leak (which is off and on, because the fluid tank holds liquid for a few days at a time and then it will just drain randomly, really weird). The starter problem wasn't a big deal, just pushed my car back and forth and it clicked. Been fine for the past 2 months or so, no problems..which brings me to this morning.

I'm getting in my car, ready to go to school, and I turn the key in my ignition and I hear it turning over, but it just won't start. I try again, thinking it might be the starter, after pushing my car back and forth again. No luck. Went back to bed for about 4 hours, thinking maybe I flooded it. Try again after 4 hours, no luck..but it is still turning over, just won't start. Now my question is, what is it this time? Battery is fine and there is a half tank of gas. Even tried jump starting my car to see if the battery was the case, didn't work. Anyway, I'm thinking maybe a faulty crank sensor..any ideas on how much that would run me cost of labor included? I'm not trying to spend an arm and a leg to fix this jeep because I plan on getting a new one in probably about 5-6 months. Any help is appreciated.

[Springfield]

My car fails me again. First it was a starter problem and then a radiator hose leak (which is off and on, because the fluid tank holds liquid for a few days at a time and then it will just drain randomly, really weird). The starter problem wasn't a big deal, just pushed my car back and forth and it clicked. Been fine for the past 2 months or so, no problems..which brings me to this morning.

I'm getting in my car, ready to go to school, and I turn the key in my ignition and I hear it turning over, but it just won't start. I try again, thinking it might be the starter, after pushing my car back and forth again. No luck. Went back to bed for about 4 hours, thinking maybe I flooded it. Try again after 4 hours, no luck..but it is still turning over, just won't start. Now my question is, what is it this time? Battery is fine and there is a half tank of gas. Even tried jump starting my car to see if the battery was the case, didn't work. Anyway, I'm thinking maybe a faulty crank sensor..any ideas on how much that would run me cost of labor included? I'm not trying to spend an arm and a leg to fix this jeep because I plan on getting a new one in probably about 5-6 months. Any help is appreciated.

What kind of car do you have again Bayou?

I thought it was a Ford Explorer but I forget. The year that it is would be helpful as well.

What you describe is a "cranks won't start" condition. The battery has power, the starter is turning the engine but it won't start. This is caused by a lack of fuel, spark or timing... usually one of the first two.

There is a lot of possible common problems... I continued reading your post and saw that you said it was a Jeep. What year and model? Engine size would help as well.

Common problems on jeeps include (but are not limited to) fuel pumps, crank sensors, distributors and PCMs. That's just a few things off the top of my head.

[twa]

You can usually listen for a slight buzz from the gas tank (when you first turn the key on) to tell if the fuel pump is working.

or disconnect the line and turn the key on...preferably NOT when you are smoking:silly:

[BayouBrave86]

96 Grand Cherokee. I was right, it was the crank sensor. Cost me 177. Triple A guy said it was the fuel pump. I win.

[Springfield]

96 Grand Cherokee. I was right, it was the crank sensor. Cost me 177. Triple A guy said it was the fuel pump. I win.

Good job!

[BayouBrave86]

Good job!

Haha, thanks. This thread has inspired me to learn more about cars. The mechanic mentioned to me that I had a water leak with the radiator and I told him it was not a big problem for me yet, that I kept an eye on it and that I was planning on getting a new car later this year. When I was leaving, he told me that if I ever thought about selling my current car to let him know and that he would buy it from me. Is that a good or bad thing for a mechanic to offer to buy a car? ols.

This shop is awesome by the way, they are always very honest and give great deals. They'll always let me know what the problem is with my car before they work on it, which is an awesome plus and puts the shops to shame that require money first to let you know whats wrong with you car.

Edited May 1, 2009 by BayouBrave86

[zoony]

I just bought a 2009 Honda Odyssey. (for my wife- keep the jokes to a minimum please )

Anyways- 2 questions. 1- the guy trying to sell me the extended service contract told me (after I told him no thanks 5000 times and that I do maintenance myself) to be sure to use Honda Oil filters. I use synthetic 5W-20 oil and change every 5000 miles. Might be overkill but I don't mind doing it.

Anyways- the guy told me that the Honda VTEC engines don't respond well to aftermarket filters- and to make sure I use the Honda Filter. This sounds like bull**** to me. But with today's engine technology, who knows. Thoughts?

Also- just a general new car question- I was always told not to wax a new car for at least 6 months. Does this still hold true with today's automotive finishes? Because I'd like to get a coat of wax on it.

Thanks

[Springfield]

I just bought a 2009 Honda Odyssey. (for my wife- keep the jokes to a minimum please )

Anyways- 2 questions. 1- the guy trying to sell me the extended service contract told me (after I told him no thanks 5000 times and that I do maintenance myself) to be sure to use Honda Oil filters. I use synthetic 5W-20 oil and change every 5000 miles. Might be overkill but I don't mind doing it.

Anyways- the guy told me that the Honda VTEC engines don't respond well to aftermarket filters- and to make sure I use the Honda Filter. This sounds like bull**** to me. But with today's engine technology, who knows. Thoughts?

Congratulations on your purchase. I think that the Odysseys are among the best when it comes to minivans. I just bought a Honda last year, in fact one year ago to this day. I'm rather familiar with the service contract they were trying to sell you in some respects. I never thought they covered service though (regular maintenance that is). I only thought they covered repairs that were "out of warranty". Every contract is different though. I opted not to get one though, mainly due to my personal field of work.

As far as the oil filters. I think that is a total line of BS that he fed you. The guy obviously doesn't have any idea of how oil filters work. Like anything, there are different quality oil filters. I'd put the Honda filters at the upper end of quality. They aren't the best but they are far from the worst.

I personally use Mobil 1 5W30 and a Mobil 1 oil filter. I've done a small amount of research and found that Mobil 1 oil filters, although expensive, provide superior filtration. It is also slightly larger than the OEM Honda filter that I pulled off during the first oil change. This means that it will hold a larger amount of oil in the filter resulting in more oil getting up to the top of the engine on start up (when a majority of wear occurs).

Here is a site that compares several popular brands of oil filters. It is a bit amateur (and not exactly what I was looking for) but does provide a decent amount of insight. The latest research seems to agree that a better oil filter will provide a exponentially lower amount of wear on the engine.

Also- just a general new car question- I was always told not to wax a new car for at least 6 months. Does this still hold true with today's automotive finishes? Because I'd like to get a coat of wax on it.

Thanks

So far as waxing, I'm not a pro. I haven't waxed my car yet and the paint still shines really nicely after I wash it. I do use high end wash and usually hand wash my car when I have the time. I have heard that waxing (especially hard waxes) can destroy the clear coat, but I have no experience or information to back that claim up.

[Leonard Washington]

I have a situation. My car has developed a noise that sounds like whirrring. It seems to be noticeable at 40-85mph. I also feel it in the steering wheel. I thought it was a wheel bearing so I took off all the wheels and tried moving them (hands at 12 and 6). I didn't feel any shaking so I took the car in for a tire rotation, alignment, and balancing. The sound remains...any one have any advice or further tests?

[twa]

I have a situation. My car has developed a noise that sounds like whirrring. It seems to be noticeable at 40-85mph. I also feel it in the steering wheel. I thought it was a wheel bearing so I took off all the wheels and tried moving them (hands at 12 and 6). I didn't feel any shaking so I took the car in for a tire rotation, alignment, and balancing. The sound remains...any one have any advice or further tests?

Bearings can go dry/bad w/o creating slack at first,could also be a CV joint but not as likely.

I assume it is frt wheel drive? (make /mode help)

If so jack up one side(in the frt) and turn the wheel,while listening for noise

If it is a bearing,it will become much easier to find later;)

You can also put it in gear instead,BUT that is a bit risky if you are not careful:chair:

When you say feeling it,is it a serious vibration or just minor like buzz from a speaker?

A serious vibration points to a tire belt

Edited May 17, 2009 by twa

[twa]

Zoony, most new cars have had a poly coating applied at the dealer and hand washing with a quality wash is sufficient for a yr.

Waxing with a clearcoat safe wax(most are now,I prefer Mothers or McGuires) is fine if you desire to sweat though .

[SteveFromYellowstone]

I have a 2004 Dodge Ram with the 5.7 Hemi

I've been getting a few dashboard lights within the last month. When I was driving up to Massachusetts (about two weeks ago), about a half hour away, the check engine light and this red lightning bolt come on (real technical description, I know) and my RPMs start acting strange. I pull over, turn the truck off, turn it back on, and the red light is off, but the check engine light is still on. I keep driving and hope for the best. I make it there fine.

Now on my way back, about half way to Maryland, this happens again. I pull over and turn it off, turn it back on and keep driving. I don't have much of a choice at this point. I make it home okay. I figure I'd get it checked out within the next few days. A day or two later, the check engine light turns off and I haven't had a problem since. Should I be worried about it still?

Also, the "lamp out" light comes on periodically. I've checked all my lights and they're all good. It just comes on randomly and starts beeping, it gets a bit annoying. Anything I can do about that?

Thanks in advance

[twa]

I have a 2004 Dodge Ram with the 5.7 Hemi

I've been getting a few dashboard lights within the last month. When I was driving up to Massachusetts (about two weeks ago), about a half hour away, the check engine light and this red lightning bolt come on (real technical description, I know) and my RPMs start acting strange. I pull over, turn the truck off, turn it back on, and the red light is off, but the check engine light is still on. I keep driving and hope for the best. I make it there fine.

Now on my way back, about half way to Maryland, this happens again. I pull over and turn it off, turn it back on and keep driving. I don't have much of a choice at this point. I make it home okay. I figure I'd get it checked out within the next few days. A day or two later, the check engine light turns off and I haven't had a problem since. Should I be worried about it still?

Also, the "lamp out" light comes on periodically. I've checked all my lights and they're all good. It just comes on randomly and starts beeping, it gets a bit annoying. Anything I can do about that?

Thanks in advance

It's possessed:silly:

The lightning bolt is the charging system(battery/alternator

Service engine almost always emission system

Lamp out ,could be a bulb with a bad filament(they will work intermittently)

Really sounds like bad connection somewhere causing all the issues,on a Dodge the likely culprit is where the wires go into the computer module(in my experience) or a fault in the module itself.

You can try cleaning all the connections with contact cleaner and get lucky,but you will likely need a mechanic

btw if you do try and clean the connections,disconnect the battery ground and touch a metal object BEFORE touching the module.

Edited May 17, 2009 by twa

[Leonard Washington]

Bearings can go dry/bad w/o creating slack at first,could also be a CV joint but not as likely.

I assume it is frt wheel drive? (make /mode help)

If so jack up one side(in the frt) and turn the wheel,while listening for noise

If it is a bearing,it will become much easier to find later;)

You can also put it in gear instead,BUT that is a bit risky if you are not careful:chair:

When you say feeling it,is it a serious vibration or just minor like buzz from a speaker?

A serious vibration points to a tire belt

It's a 2000 kia sephia (obviously fwd).

I wouldn't say its a serious vibration. Most people don't hear it unless I tune their ears to it. However, I hear it all the time. It does have the typical oversized-tires sound. The noise is from the front passenger wheel.

I'll try taking off the wheel later today and giving it turn. I'm too much of a punk to try putting it in gear while on jack stands.

I've replaced the front bearing on a isuzu trooper 4x4 and it was quite the challenge and I don't want to go through it again on a smaller vehicle. How much would this cost at a shop?