BayouBrave86 Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 Are Jeep Grand Cherokee's reliable after 99'? I'm thinking about upgrading my 96' to a newer one, but I heard the new ones aren't as great. How many miles do the newer ones usually last? My 96' has 160+ on it and is still running pretty damn well with the occasional trips to the shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted November 23, 2009 Author Share Posted November 23, 2009 I was driving home last night and all my dash lights started to turn on and off(brake light, battery, door open lights, SRS, etc). Pretty much every indicator was on except my check engine. I tried starting it this morning and it wouldn't start so I got the battery checked and they said it was bad so I replaced it. Now car starts, but all the dash lights are still on. I drive a 2000 Honda accord, any idea what this could be? Almost a 99% guarantee that the alternator has gone bad. The alternator is what charges the battery when the car is running. If the alternator fails, the battery will be discharged and the car will stop running (eventually, when the battery runs out of power). This will also cause the random lights to come on because the battery can't power the various circuits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted November 23, 2009 Author Share Posted November 23, 2009 Are Jeep Grand Cherokee's reliable after 99'? I'm thinking about upgrading my 96' to a newer one, but I heard the new ones aren't as great. How many miles do the newer ones usually last? My 96' has 160+ on it and is still running pretty damn well with the occasional trips to the shop. They have common transmission, rear differential, electrical and air conditioning problems as seen in most Chrysler models. Asking how well a car will last is a tough question because people will care for them differently. That said, even with the best care, Jeep Cherokees will run into a litany of problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted November 23, 2009 Author Share Posted November 23, 2009 http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070522062802AAeGJw1 The funny thing to me is that the asker chose the worst answer to the question. The responder clearly doesn't know just exactly what they are talking about. They know enough to do harm and spread more misinformation about proper maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 The funny thing to me is that the asker chose the worst answer to the question. The responder clearly doesn't know just exactly what they are talking about. They know enough to do harm and spread more misinformation about proper maintenance. God bless Yahoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deepo11 Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 Thank for the reply. I actually had the timing belt changed last week, is it possible that he had to unplug some cables that run to alternator? and maybe re-attach them correctly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted November 23, 2009 Author Share Posted November 23, 2009 Thank for the reply.I actually had the timing belt changed last week, is it possible that he had to unplug some cables that run to alternator? and maybe re-attach them correctly? Yes, it's very possible. I'd bring it back to the shop that did the work. They should be able to recheck for free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickalino Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 What, no support for the egg and/or pepper solution? I just added the egg and pepper to my radiator. Will let you how it turns out. (over-easy, well-done, etc) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickalino Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 Wondered if you guys could figure out a noise I'm getting. It happens during braking, but here's the thing.....it never happens when I apply the brake, but only when I come to a complete stop. The best way I could describe the sound, is like a really loud fart. But it only happens, if and when, it comes to a complete stop. Example : If I apply the brakes while approaching a red light, and then it turns green right before I come to a stop, it won't make the sound. But if the light stays red, and I stop completely and entirely, just as the car slightly jerks back at the very end of the stop, it makes this loud fart sound. I've never gotten this type of indication, for when my brakes are bad. Is this something else ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted December 10, 2009 Share Posted December 10, 2009 Sounds like the pads are heat glazed or wore out Could also just be brake /rust dust...been damp there alot?(if it is that simply backing up and hitting the brakes hard will clear it for the most part) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCsportsfan53 Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 The funny thing to me is that the asker chose the worst answer to the question. The responder clearly doesn't know just exactly what they are talking about. They know enough to do harm and spread more misinformation about proper maintenance. Seriously, it's not a rubber belt it's a chain? Lol, that would be called a timing chain then, wouldn't it, not a belt? I know that sounds crazy and all... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark The Homer Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted December 11, 2009 Author Share Posted December 11, 2009 Wondered if you guys could figure out a noise I'm getting.It happens during braking, but here's the thing.....it never happens when I apply the brake, but only when I come to a complete stop. The best way I could describe the sound, is like a really loud fart. But it only happens, if and when, it comes to a complete stop. Example : If I apply the brakes while approaching a red light, and then it turns green right before I come to a stop, it won't make the sound. But if the light stays red, and I stop completely and entirely, just as the car slightly jerks back at the very end of the stop, it makes this loud fart sound. I've never gotten this type of indication, for when my brakes are bad. Is this something else ? What kind of car do you have again? From your description it doesn't really sound like something to be super concerned about. That said, I always think it's best to have a brake noise checked out, better safe than sorry. I agree with twa for the most part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted December 11, 2009 Author Share Posted December 11, 2009 Seriously, it's not a rubber belt it's a chain? Lol, that would be called a timing chain then, wouldn't it, not a belt? I know that sounds crazy and all... Seriously. The guy contradicted himself (or herself) in one sentence. The chain is obvious. Yellow and red arrows, timing chain tensioner. Green arrows, timing chain guide. Blue arrow, camshaft sprocket (or gear). Can't figure out what kind of motor that is out of though. For some reason, I want to say a Ford V-8 but I'm probably wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickalino Posted December 11, 2009 Share Posted December 11, 2009 (edited) Sounds like the pads are heat glazed or wore outCould also just be brake /rust dust...been damp there alot?(if it is that simply backing up and hitting the brakes hard will clear it for the most part) Thanks, I tried the backing up and slamming the brakes, and it seems like the sound isn't quite as loud as before, but it's still there. So, you think I need new pads then ? What kind of car do you have again?From your description it doesn't really sound like something to be super concerned about. That said, I always think it's best to have a brake noise checked out, better safe than sorry. I agree with twa for the most part. It's a 97 Buick LeSabre.....If there was a problem with any part of the brakes themselves, wouldn't it be noticeable in the braking (slow to brake, and/or squeal while they're applied) ? Or am I just getting another type of indication something serious is wrong with the brakes ? Edited December 11, 2009 by Mickalino Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Springfield Posted December 12, 2009 Author Share Posted December 12, 2009 It's a 97 Buick LeSabre.....If there was a problem with any part of the brakes themselves, wouldn't it be noticeable in the braking (slow to brake, and/or squeal while they're applied) ? Or am I just getting another type of indication something serious is wrong with the brakes ? Not necessarily. Brakes can make all sorts of noise for many different reasons. Sometimes it's because the pads are just poor quality, sometimes it's an early warning sign. It's really hard to say unless you look at them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 (edited) only way to tell is to check them out,but if it is not squealing it is probably just heat glazed(which reduces effectiveness,but still works) yeah what he said:stupid: :nutkick: Edited December 12, 2009 by twa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Special K Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Okay, I have a 1997 Ford Mustang. Over the past month, the stupid car has been dying on me sometimes when I'm idling, or slowing down around a corner. Sometimes it won't start, like it sounds like it's starting, but the engine won't turn over. After about 5-10 minutes of trying, it usually starts back up and goes for a bit, then dies. I took it to the Ford dealership today (fittingly, the damn thing died on me about 300 yards from the dealership) and the mechanic is thinking it might be a fuel pump issue. Question for mechanics here: how much should a fuel pump cost approximately? How much labor is required to replace it? Basically, how majorly am I screwed financially with this BS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark The Homer Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 ...Can't figure out what kind of motor that is out of though. For some reason, I want to say a Ford V-8 but I'm probably wrong. If you click on properties, you can see it's probably a vw engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 From a dealer 5-6 hundred total would be my guess in your area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Special K Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 From a dealer 5-6 hundred total would be my guess in your area. I guess it doesn't have a "normal" fuel pump mechanism (according to my dad) and the mechanic called me today and said the pump injector thingy has to be replaced along with the filter...to the tune of approximately 975. AHHHH!!! Does that sound right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 (edited) I guess it doesn't have a "normal" fuel pump mechanism (according to my dad) and the mechanic called me today and said the pump injector thingy has to be replaced along with the filter...to the tune of approximately 975. AHHHH!!! Does that sound right? I'd find a good independent garage:) but yes thats about right for a pump,filter and injectors from a dealer I would be surprised if the injectors were bad,but who knows added w/o injectors it is a 3-4 hr job max and while you do want a quality pump,they can be had cheaper than the stealer...err dealership.. Edited December 17, 2009 by twa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Special K Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 I'd find a good independent garage:)but yes thats about right for a pump,filter and injectors from a dealer I would be surprised if the injectors were bad,but who knows added w/o injectors it is a 3-4 hr job max and while you do want a quality pump,they can be had cheaper than the stealer...err dealership.. Thank-you very much TWA. That's what my husband is pretty much saying too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southtown Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 My girlfriend has a 2000 Toyota Solara. She was told she has a cracked radiator. It is currently not leaking fluid. To fix it would cost $350. (she does not remember if this was to fix the crack or replace the whole thing) As fas as she knows, the radiator has never been replaced. Questions: Is the car safe to drive or should it be driven straight to a mechanic? Does is make sense to repair the radiator or replace it? What is a reasonable charge for that? A co-worker is a "car guy" and said he'd replace the radiator at cost. Is that something that could be done in my work parking lot or is it better to let a pro do it? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twa Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 (edited) My girlfriend has a 2000 Toyota Solara. She was told she has a cracked radiator. It is currently not leaking fluid. To fix it would cost $350. (she does not remember if this was to fix the crack or replace the whole thing) As fas as she knows, the radiator has never been replaced. Questions: Is the car safe to drive or should it be driven straight to a mechanic? Does is make sense to repair the radiator or replace it? What is a reasonable charge for that? A co-worker is a "car guy" and said he'd replace the radiator at cost. Is that something that could be done in my work parking lot or is it better to let a pro do it? Thanks in advance. Depends on where the crack is...if it is not leaking fluid it is safe to drive until it does leak . Long as it has coolant ,it is ok I have never seen a cracked one not leak,unless it is simply on a mount flange(not the tank itself)which can be epoxied ...you can also epoxy the tank itself but durability is questionable It is not hard to replace one till something goes wrong or is not done right:evilg:...you be the judge I would guess labor and material (new coolant)@ about $100-$200. with a dealer probably higher. It's a guessing game w/o seeing it added the 350 should be to replace it, hardly anyone repairs the plastic tank ones Edited January 16, 2010 by twa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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