The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread

[Springfield]

2001 Accord 4 cylinder. Sometimes it wont turn over to start, is it likely a fuel line ? A clog ? When it has a problem starting it will hesitate initially and then be fine for days. Bad spark plugs perhaps ?

No when you say it won't turn over to start do you actually mean that it cranks and won't start? Like it cranks like it's trying to turn over but it doesn't catch and actually start up?

If so, I doubt it's a leaky fuel line, clog or spark plugs.

In order for an engine to run, it must have spark, fuel and timing. If one of those isn't there, it won't start or it will die. A leaky fuel line, clog or fouled spark plugs will give you a more consistent symptom than the intermittent problem that you are currently having.

I common problem on those vehicles (that will cause a cranks won't start condition, intermittent) is a faulty PGM-FI relay, also known as the Main relay. This relay controls the power to the fuel injectors and will normally fail when the ambient temperature is warmer outside, I've seen them fail at all sorts of times though.

That's my own personal thought, but it could be anything and it will have to happen more frequently in order for somebody to do other than guess at the problem.

[Springfield]

I'm thinking about buying a used car, do I have to pay a mechanic to come with me to inspect the car?

:helmet:

You could ask the seller to let you bring the car to a local shop and have a mechanic inspect it. That way, they will be able to put it up on a lift and inspect pretty much everything that is possible with a naked eye.

That would be my advice.

[Springfield]

Alright I've got a question...

My 93ish Honda Civic Manual is laboring going up hills, and bucks and hesitates sometimes in any gear to where I can't accelerate other than maybe 1mph/sec... And then once it gets above about 2k RPMs it feels like it catches and will go with no symptoms...

Spark plug? Distributor cap? Clutch Slipping? Broken Motor Mount?

I've got no idea...

I'd say you have an ignition wire that is going bad.

I'd buy a set of ignition wires (also spark plugs, distributor cap and ignition rotor for good measure) and replace them. That solves 90% of misfires when under load on those cars.

[Springfield]

Mick, final thought after reading the past few pages.

I'd really just add coolant as you need to until you can get the radiator replaced.

[SkinnedAussie]

Mick, final thought after reading the past few pages.

I'd really just add coolant as you need to until you can get the radiator replaced.

What, no support for the egg and/or pepper solution?

[SkinnedAussie]

182K miles is nothing for a Honda. motor will do 300 easy.

That's generally the rule, but only if the engine has been well maintained over the duration.

[Kosher Ham]

No when you say it won't turn over to start do you actually mean that it cranks and won't start? Like it cranks like it's trying to turn over but it doesn't catch and actually start up?

I common problem on those vehicles (that will cause a cranks won't start condition, intermittent) is a faulty PGM-FI relay, also known as the Main relay. This relay controls the power to the fuel injectors and will normally fail when the ambient temperature is warmer outside, I've seen them fail at all sorts of times though.

Yes. And if you dont turn the key the whole way sometimes you will hear it start to turn over.

I got in her car and it sounds like it wants to start and then it just spins. I don't know the proper terminology. It doesn't turnover and rev up. It just makes the sound like a horse neighing, Not like a motor running.

She told me that someone told her that she needed new plugs a year ago...:doh: But it has been starting just fine for the last few weeks. Just these past few days it has been acting up.

[Springfield]

What, no support for the egg and/or pepper solution?

Not unless it's going on my plate for breakfast.

I'm completely against putting anything in the cooling system unless it's ethylene glycol (or OAT). I've seen instances where people have used "stop leak" and ended up paying much more to have their vehicle repaired than they would have otherwise. Things like heater cores getting clogged up, thermostats getting stuck shut, radiator passages getting clogged.

Perhaps it's the fault of the people who used the "stop leak" products. Perhaps they didn't use them correctly. I've just seen too many problems with products like that to advise anyone to use it.

I wouldn't use it myself. If I couldn't afford the repair and the leak wasn't bad (I don't consider 1 gallon a month bad), I'd just keep adding coolant until I could afford it. It makes more sense to me compared to the possibility of causing other problems with my cooling system.

[SkinnedAussie]

Yes. And if you dont turn the key the whole way sometimes you will hear it start to turn over.

I got in her car and it sounds like it wants to start and then it just spins. I don't know the proper terminology. It doesn't turnover and rev up. It just makes the sound like a horse neighing, Not like a motor running.

Sounds like the starter motor is not fully engaging. This has been discussed earlier in the thread.

However, check the contact at the positive battery terminal first. If it is loose, tighten it; if it is covered in a fine powdery substance, take it to a Brokebacks players house! Nah, seriously, if it is the 2nd, remove the terminal from the battery post and clean both. Replace ensuring a tight connection.

If that doesn't fix it, it could be the solenoid (where the other end of the positive cable runs to), or the starter motor itself.

[Springfield]

Yes. And if you dont turn the key the whole way sometimes you will hear it start to turn over.

I got in her car and it sounds like it wants to start and then it just spins. I don't know the proper terminology. It doesn't turnover and rev up. It just makes the sound like a horse neighing, Not like a motor running.

She told me that someone told her that she needed new plugs a year ago...:doh: But it has been starting just fine for the last few weeks. Just these past few days it has been acting up.

Well, another possibility is the ignition switch (which is also fairly common) since you mentioned the issue with turning the key. The ignition switch sits right behind the ignition lock (where you put the key) and is the electrical component that sees what position the key is in.

If the ignition switch is going bad, it can cause that symptom. Particularly issues which pertain to what position the key is in when it acts up.

I think you mentioned that the auto start wasn't working either. This may have to do with a faulty ignition switch as well. Just another thought.

Like I originally said though, it will probably have to fail consistently in order to properly diagnose.

[Springfield]

And yes, I'd check the battery too. It's easy to do and can cause a lot of problems.

The neighing horse sound? Is it like a "chiki-chiki-chiki-chiki" or is more like a "eeeeeeeeeehhhh"?

(yeah, getting real technical here)

[Mickalino]

What, no support for the egg and/or pepper solution?

Not unless it's going on my plate for breakfast.

Does it need to be organic eggs and pepper ?

Or should we discuss that Here ?

[Springfield]

Does it need to be organic eggs and pepper ?

Or should we discuss that Here ?

:rotflmao:

Organic, obviously. Your car may develop cancer in the cooling system if eggs aren't pure. It'll probably break other things too if the chicken wasn't allowed free grazing before it laid the egg in question. Hell, your muffler will probably fall off.

[Kosher Ham]

Thanks guys. If it ever stops raining, I will check the battery, and try that first if not if maybe the ignition or the relay. I was told that a diagnostic check wont work unless the check engine light is on, or it had problems like that before. (I may have alreadt posted that info)

haha. Neighing like the... eeh-eeh-eeh-eeh-eeh-eeh-eeh-eeh-eehhhh.

[twa]

Help a vet on veterans day:silly:

06 F250 diesel

blowing white smoke and losing antifreeze

EGR cooler?

[SkinnedAussie]

twa, check the colour of your engine oil. If it's a strange colour, and there are no visible signs of a coolant leak, that sounds very much like a blown head gasket.

With the engine running, remove the filler cap and with the radiator topped up, see if there are any bubbles. This would indicate exhaust gas is entering the cooling system.

I certainly hope I am wrong with this diagnosis, but the white smoke usually is the give-away.

[twa]

SkinnedAussie...that was my first thought,but no discoloration or bubbles

Supposedly the 6.0 diesel has a history of the EGR cooler failing (cracking) and letting antifreeze bypass into the exhaust

POS Fords..nor diesels are my line

sounds like a expensive problem

http://www.truckblog.com/forums/topic-6388-help_with_egr_woes

anyone know a workaround?

Edited November 11, 2009 by twa

[SkinnedAussie]

My only other suggestion would be to see if you can borrow a cooling system pressure tester. That will help you find any external leak, but the white smoke is a worry.

[twa]

My only other suggestion would be to see if you can borrow a cooling system pressure tester. That will help you find any external leak, but the white smoke is a worry.

That's what I suggested,but no external leaks

http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/BulletProof_EGRSymptoms.html

POS FORDs:chair:

[SkinnedAussie]

As that link suggests, is it smoke or steam coming from the exhaust?

Place a clean, preferably white, rag over the exhaust with the engine running. If it's steam, it should leave a wet circle; if it's smoke, there should be traces of oil.

Then again, it's a diesel, so the exhaust won't be clean anyway.

Suggested @ Warning #4 seems to be the easiest way to answer your question.

Edited November 12, 2009 by SkinnedAussie

[deepo11]

Two questions:

1 - How much should a timing belt replacement cost for a 2000 Honda accord V6? Ballpark?

2 - I don't have a specific mechanic that I take my car to. Is this procedure pretty standard and easy for most mechanics to do, or should I pick wisely as to where I take it? I was thinking about just taking it next door the gas station garage while I was at work, but wasn't sure since the belt involves the engine I should research more throughly on where to specifically take it.

Thanks

[Mickalino]

My car broke down, so I had it towed to a repair shop. They did a diagnosis and said the problem was a "Fuel Intake Deficiency" and I should not have had it towed. So I filled the tank up with gas. Brilliant.

[twa]

My car broke down, so I had it towed to a repair shop. They did a diagnosis and said the problem was a "Fuel Intake Deficiency" and I should not have had it towed. So I filled the tank up with gas. Brilliant.

How else would you have known you had a deficiency?:evilg:

[twa]

Two questions:

1 - How much should a timing belt replacement cost for a 2000 Honda accord V6? Ballpark?

2 - I don't have a specific mechanic that I take my car to. Is this procedure pretty standard and easy for most mechanics to do, or should I pick wisely as to where I take it? I was thinking about just taking it next door the gas station garage while I was at work, but wasn't sure since the belt involves the engine I should research more throughly on where to specifically take it.

Thanks

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070522062802AAeGJw1

Get the timing belt replaced by a mechanic with experience with Honda timing belts. Also replace the water pump and timing belt tensioner at the same time. These three items plus labor should cost $530 - $700 with high quality parts.

[deepo11]

I was driving home last night and all my dash lights started to turn on and off(brake light, battery, door open lights, SRS, etc). Pretty much every indicator was on except my check engine. I tried starting it this morning and it wouldn't start so I got the battery checked and they said it was bad so I replaced it. Now car starts, but all the dash lights are still on. I drive a 2000 Honda accord, any idea what this could be?