Installing a Sliding Patio Door

[Btubes18]

We have been looking to replace our old sliding patio door with either a new sliding door or french type doors.  I have been looking online and it doesn't seem to be a very difficult to install.  I was wondering if any of you have done this job by yourself?

 

We are not planning to change the size of the opening...it would simply buying a new door and replacing.

 

Any tips and/or tricks?

 

Any advice would be appreciated.

[mistertim]

I have no experience with such things so I can't be of any help there. However, I thought it was important to note that I briefly glanced at this thread title out of the corner of my eye and my brain, for some inexplicable reason, registered it as saying "Installing a Sliding Potato Door".

I lol'd...because, seriously, who installs a sliding potato door?

[chipwhich]

I have seen doors installed by professionals and the like leak.  I think your biggest concern is properly caulking the door.

[skinsmarydu]

I have seen doors installed by professionals and the like leak.  I think your biggest concern is properly caulking the door.

And the frame around it, too...our "contractor" was a couple inches off on the PVC, and improvised.  So far, no leaks, but I worry anyway.

[LD0506]

Pop the trim off the inside and make sure you get the right size replacement, resizing the opening can be an unnecessary headache. Just because the nominal size is the same doesn't mean the frame thicknesses are.

 

If you are going from a slider to a slider it is different from a slider to french doors. Sliders are heavy and all the weight sits on the base, you want a solid, level surface for it to seat on. When you have the old one yanked check it out. Frequently you have an opening that's just built as a threshhold, but doesn't evenly support a slider. If/when the frame moves, bows, or flexes even a little you notice it in how the door operates or seals.

 

If you go to french doors or any hinge hung door make sure the hinge side of the opening is like a rock, solidly built, even overbuilt, to hold the hinge stress. You not only have the weight of the door (french doors full of glass can be heavy as hell) and the offcenter torque against the hinges when open, but exterior doors are subject to a lot of environmental factors- wind, storms, insolation, etc- that up the ante.

 

I love that GreatStuff sprayfoam-in-a-can, it fills the void between doorframe and wall and gives you a solid base to caulk to, instead of having just a bead of caulk trying to bridge a gap, plus it fills that hollow to keep out dirt or bugs and helps adhere the entire perimeter of the frame into the opening. Don't use use whatever cheesy hardware come with the thing to anchor it in the opening, find some heavyduty coated deck screws, add extras, stagger them, etc., that alone will keep the caulked edges from leaking far better. A little extra time and effort strengthening, flashing, whatever saves you headaches later.

 

It is a PITA not to be able to just pop one out and one in, but tweaking a door after the fact due to leaks, squeaks, etc., is much worse.

[Btubes18]

Pop the trim off the inside and make sure you get the right size replacement, resizing the opening can be an unnecessary headache. Just because the nominal size is the same doesn't mean the frame thicknesses are.

 

If you are going from a slider to a slider it is different from a slider to french doors. Sliders are heavy and all the weight sits on the base, you want a solid, level surface for it to seat on. When you have the old one yanked check it out. Frequently you have an opening that's just built as a threshhold, but doesn't evenly support a slider. If/when the frame moves, bows, or flexes even a little you notice it in how the door operates or seals.

 

If you go to french doors or any hinge hung door make sure the hinge side of the opening is like a rock, solidly built, even overbuilt, to hold the hinge stress. You not only have the weight of the door (french doors full of glass can be heavy as hell) and the offcenter torque against the hinges when open, but exterior doors are subject to a lot of environmental factors- wind, storms, insolation, etc- that up the ante.

 

I love that GreatStuff sprayfoam-in-a-can, it fills the void between doorframe and wall and gives you a solid base to caulk to, instead of having just a bead of caulk trying to bridge a gap, plus it fills that hollow to keep out dirt or bugs and helps adhere the entire perimeter of the frame into the opening. Don't use use whatever cheesy hardware come with the thing to anchor it in the opening, find some heavyduty coated deck screws, add extras, stagger them, etc., that alone will keep the caulked edges from leaking far better. A little extra time and effort strengthening, flashing, whatever saves you headaches later.

 

It is a PITA not to be able to just pop one out and one in, but tweaking a door after the fact due to leaks, squeaks, etc., is much worse.

Thank you!  This door leads to a screened in porch, so I am not as worried about the elements as it won't get wet.  Definitely some great advice in here and I will factor this in when determining the right door.  From your description, I doubt I will be able to do this by myself. 

 

I have a contractor coming to give me a quote, we will see how much it is.  Would like to do myself, but if it's relatively cheap for someone to install then I will pay for that.

[LD0506]

Actually it is not that bad a job to DIY, I know I would rather save a couple bucks but also learn something new or practice something known. Like a lot of jobs, it's all in the prep, if you put your effort into getting that big hole in the wall ready for it, installing the door is a breeze.

[Btubes18]

Thanks.  I will continue to do some research on it and maybe I can do this myself.