portis&taylor Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 Im going to get two 15'' kicker L7's in a couple weeks, im not sure what kind of amp to get tho I assume i need atleast a 2000watt amp but other then that im lost. i'd like to keep the price below 300 if possible, any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DButz65 Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 First off what kind of car? Second off, you dont need 2000 watts to run those 2 subs, on kickers website it says...Max Rec Amplifier Power (WATTS PEAK/RMS)* 2000/1000 I used to compete in car audio competitions back in the day, so I'm not up to par on whats good out there anymore, but look for something around 1000 watts with 2 channels..then run the amp at 2 ohms, or lower if stable enough, to get more than 1000 watts out of it. Hell you could even do a lesser amp and drop the Ohms on it. I take it a shop is doing a system for you? If you're a new shadetree installer, do yourself a favor and take it to a shop BEFORE you attempt anything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
portis&taylor Posted June 23, 2010 Author Share Posted June 23, 2010 yes im going to have a shop install the system, only a 1000watt amp? i want atleast a 1000watts going to each sub, this is my first system and i want to do it right i dont want it underpowered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
portis&taylor Posted June 23, 2010 Author Share Posted June 23, 2010 this is exactly what im getting and it says he's using a 2000watt amp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
portis&taylor Posted June 23, 2010 Author Share Posted June 23, 2010 The car is a 94 impala ss plenty of trunk space Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squatch66 Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 if you are wanting an amp that puts out 1000 watts per sub you are going to pay way more than 300 bucks. what you can try to do is see what impedance your subs are and find an amp that is stable down to like 1 ohm. usually if it is stable that far down you can wire your subs in parallel and double the power of your amp. the guys at your shop will be able to tell you what is best for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistertim Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 if you are wanting an amp that puts out 1000 watts per sub you are going to pay way more than 300 bucks. what you can try to do is see what impedance your subs are and find an amp that is stable down to like 1 ohm. usually if it is stable that far down you can wire your subs in parallel and double the power of your amp. the guys at your shop will be able to tell you what is best for you. This was going to be my suggestion as well. One way to (try) and get around the cost is get an amp that is stable down to 1 Ohm. So you get two 4 Ohm subs, wire them in parallel, and then bridge the amp. But it might end up costing a lot more than 300 anyway because even though the amp would be rated at a lower output, amps that are stable down to that low are going to be inherently expensive. That being said, you are better off getting a high quality amp that is rated at 300 watts/channel than a cheap amp that is rated at 1,000 watts/channel. The cheap ones rarely actually have that sort of output and when they do get cranked up they are much more prone to quickly start with the clipping and distortion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parlett316 Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 Ahhh, the days when I wanted 6 subs in my trunk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DButz65 Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 This was going to be my suggestion as well. One way to (try) and get around the cost is get an amp that is stable down to 1 Ohm. So you get two 4 Ohm subs, wire them in parallel, and then bridge the amp. But it might end up costing a lot more than 300 anyway because even though the amp would be rated at a lower output, amps that are stable down to that low are going to be inherently expensive. That being said, you are better off getting a high quality amp that is rated at 300 watts/channel than a cheap amp that is rated at 1,000 watts/channel. The cheap ones rarely actually have that sort of output and when they do get cranked up they are much more prone to quickly start with the clipping and distortion. That is basically what i was saying... Ahhh, the days when I wanted 6 subs in my trunk. Back in the day I ran four 12's,(Boston Pro) four 8's (Kicker midbass, 2 under each front seat) two dyne audio 6's in custom kick panels in the front floorboard, 4 boston pro tweeters, two boston pro 4 inch midranges in a custom headliner, and a 3½ for center..and 2 6 inch coax's for "rear fill" Running off of 6 Linear Power Amps on a motorized amp rack/tray.... subs had their own amp, midbass had their own, mid ranges had their own etc etc ...topping off the system....had 2 noise gates, three 1 million microferet capacitors, 4 batteries......275 amp alternator....alesis studio EQ's and crossovers...all in a jeep wrangler...I could make quarters bounce 1½ feet off my roof (hard top) LOL But that wasnt the point of my system back then :pfft: Ahh i miss those days! Also to the OP....in car audio, you wont notice much of a difference between SPL (sound pressure level) between 750 watts or 1500 watts going to the subs/system....basically to make your system 3 decibels louder...you need to almost triple your wattage overall to gain 3db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DButz65 Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 this is exactly what im getting and it says he's using a 2000watt amp All that bass and nothing else LOL sorry I laugh at those guys, well I used to... Hifonics? sounds like a generic brand to me, they werent around back when I was into all that stuff.... precision power, alpine, linear power were all good clean amps..kicker had just came out with theirs back then and were supposed to be really good amps, but I never got around to hearing any of them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parlett316 Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 WATTTTTS Sick setup. I always had a high quality Clarion headunit (DRX-9275L, another one that was released in 03 I think) but the speaker setup always changed. Focal Polykevlar components then went active xover with Dayton 7" woofers and Seas Tweeters, Phoenix Gold Amps, 2 SoundStream Rubicon 12"s. Now I'm running a Alpine IDX-001 headunit with my IPod, Alpine components up front, no rear speakers, 1 JBL 12. I'm sticking to the KISS method now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DButz65 Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 Sick setup. I always had a high quality Clarion headunit (DRX-9275L, another one that was released in 03 I think) but the speaker setup always changed. Focal Polykevlar components then went active xover with Dayton 7" woofers and Seas Tweeters, Phoenix Gold Amps, 2 SoundStream Rubicon 12"s.Now I'm running a Alpine IDX-001 headunit with my IPod, Alpine components up front, no rear speakers, 1 JBL 12. I'm sticking to the KISS method now. Cool, I ran a alpine head unit myself (7909) back then it was the only cd head unit out there, that had a 5v pre amp, all others were around 1v or lower, it kicked ass..still have it floating around somewhere in storage heh That thing is still winning awards to this day http://www.motodash.com/article/12925/Alpine-s-7909-Nabs-Best-Ever-CD-Receiver-Award/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosher Ham Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 I thought that was a fad. I had huge subs in my car...20 years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAfan47 Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 I thought that was a fad. I had huge subs in my car...20 years ago. Oh? wow huge? come on now spill the beans... :pfft: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squatch66 Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 That being said, you are better off getting a high quality amp that is rated at 300 watts/channel than a cheap amp that is rated at 1,000 watts/channel. The cheap ones rarely actually have that sort of output and when they do get cranked up they are much more prone to quickly start with the clipping and distortion. this is great advice. you really do get what you pay for when it comes to car audio. to the OP....in car audio, you wont notice much of a difference between SPL (sound pressure level) between 750 watts or 1500 watts going to the subs/system....basically to make your system 3 decibels louder...you need to almost triple your wattage overall to gain 3db this is true. i only had 2 mtx 10's in a ported box in my trunk with a 690 watt sub amp powering them and they POUNDED. lean the seat back, throw in six underground by the sneaker pimps and enjoy your massage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Flanders Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 Hifonics? sounds like a generic brand to me, they werent around back when I was into all that stuff.... precision power, alpine, linear power were all good clean amps..kicker had just came out with theirs back then and were supposed to be really good amps, but I never got around to hearing any of them Dude, you are incorrect. HiFonics were PIONEERS in car Audio. HiFonics was around before PPI and Rockford. I still have my HiFonics amps from the late 80's early 90's. they were freakin' BEASTS. High Dollar stuff, not crap. I ran two 15" Celestion ($$$$$$) Subs, with my HiFonics Zeus crankin 300 Watts RMS to each sub. I had Boston Pro seperates mids, with a pair of Waveguide tweets ($$$$$). HiFonics of TODAY though is absolute crap. Cheap **** made overseas.......REAL amps are made in the good old USA.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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