Fresh8686

43 minutes ago, China said:

It's weed, it should grow like one.  Back in the day we'd grow plants without any special equipment or care and they'd grow 8 feet tall.  Now the plants are so hybridized and inbred that you need to be a horticulturalist just to keep them alive until they reach there determinant lifespan and die off.   Lame.

Eh, you're not wrong. However, a lot of the issue now a days is the soil people use to start with. A lot of these store brand soils are incomplete, especially when it comes to minerals, but also the different kinds or cheap/artificial versions of nutrients they use, which create imbalances from deficiency to toxicity.

On my very first grow, with plenty mistakes made, I had plants so tall they were bumping into the light and burning their tips so 8 feet tall is still a thing and super easy. It's more a pain in the ass to train around when growing indoors.

These Cali outdoor coastal genetics are super nice and a pleasure to grow. But, cookie strains and some chem strains can be finicky due to coming from self-pollinated genetics. Still, they're worth the grow for the fantastic taste and effects.

@Simmsy

I'm not sure what that issue is but, since it is effecting mostly the new growth (from what I can see in the picture) it is probably an immobile deficiency. Here are some links that might be helpful for you.

This link breaks down which minerals and nutrients are mobile, semi-mobile, and immobile so you can better read the signs of your plant and narrow down causes.

Quote

Since immobile elements do not easily move within the plant, when deficiency symptoms occur they show up in new growth (Photo 1). When mobile elements become limiting, they can be scavenged from older growth and moved to where they are most needed, causing deficiency symptoms in older growth (Photo 2).

https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/knowing_nutrient_mobility_is_helpful_in_diagnosing_plant_nutrient_deficienc

Below is a link to a slide presentation of deficiency symptoms from a guy who people call into their big commercial grow farms to quickly diagnose and fix their issues. You can also hear him discuss this in the attached grow video.

https://aviarpoint.lt.acemlnd.com/Prod/link-tracker?redirectUrl=aHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZkb2NzLmdvb2dsZS5jb20lMkZwcmVzZW50YXRpb24lMkZkJTJGMVh2VEJOWC1rZjRwd3B6eG9WQ2lJSWNRdmhDeWFRcTYyTXVVRTlTSXpkajAlMkZlZGl0&sig=EekKE9YFSWLNhCs3TAiK35yzEu3x3TCKqSr7JWPF8XAa&iat=1629740200&a=223917763&account=aviarpoint.activehosted.com&email=zceoGuY4QNnFCW5cWV8MeflMy%2BOWWuyaZunZiCXh6gI%3D&s=a78ff15cceaa4229c25ce2d323811490&i=97A124A3A688

Man my babies are doing so well after some initial hiccups with my soil aeration since I made the mistake of using rice hulls instead of pumice or perlite. I also had some issues with two of my plants because they come from being adapted to hydro or flood and drain style grows with coco rather than my peat moss soil mix and I needed to be using a lower PH to avoid what was probably a manganese mineral lockout.

It's all good though, I'm running cultivars now that are used to an organic soil terroir. I've got a couple more weeks before I flip into flower, but they're already showing terp profiles when I do stem rubs and low stress training. My mendo purple has such a nice grape smell that has me constantly smelling my fingers like that superstar church girl on old school SNL. I've also got this Royal Limez that has this straight gas with a hint of turpentine smell. It's amazing, but hopefully some of the lime/lemon terps show out as it develops and continues to express itself.

There are teams who wouldn’t be above signing Reyes and then stashing him on IR. We might even do the same before the season starts. 
 

I really loved the physicality he showed when blocking. He’s still stiff and in his head but the two most important boxes were checked for me. Did he shrink or flourish when it came to physicality and could he get open and make a play? He was able to do both. The fluidity will hopefully come with repetition, Ron said something like it takes 5,000 reps for internalization to occur and instinct to take over. I can’t wait to see what he can do in a year and hopefully it’s with this team. 

Not at all happy with our run defense this game. 

Yea, this is a measuring stick year. We overachieved expectations last year and very well with all the extracurricular stuff we had to deal with, but we've also taken a massive leap in the competition we're about to face so we truly get to figure out if our team and especially the defense is for real.

I think we will have a much more balanced team this season compared to last year, both in terms of roster and schematic range. We'll also have much more window dressing and pre snap disguises this year on both sides of the ball. Hopefully that should mitigate some of what QB's like Brady were able to do to us where they just picked us apart in the middle and attacked the gaps in our zone.

2 hours ago, Koolblue13 said:

Do we have any of our core guys up next year? 

You’ll be seeing a contract for Terry around this time next year. 

Anybody here ever try blissfull wizard from cookiemaine? From what I read it’s shown thc levels around 35-37% and is super strong. I’m not really into thc % being this ultimate thing to judge quality and prefer terp profile/entourage effect, but I’m super interested in this one. It’s also supposed to be really positive and uplifting without being racey or whatever. 

1 minute ago, mistertim said:

@Fresh8686Wouldn't someone just go with autos if they wanted to do SOG with such a short veg? Seems like feminized would be a bit pointless in that case.

It depends on what the grower is trying to do. That short veg time is mostly for breeders doing pheno hunts or personal growers who care more about variety than yield. 
 

In the first case the ruderalis genetics in auto’s will be a no go for breeders who are looking to cross photo-periods. Further there are genetic issues with the dominant and recessive genes within ruderalis plants that make certain crosses problematic which get in the way of selecting certain traits and getting them to carry over down further generations. 
 

For personal grows with variety in mind it can be hard to manage varying autos because you will have no control over when they all desire to flower which can be a pain when managing and attempting to have a level canopy. 
 

I’m not really into auto’s personally and once I get my breeding and growing skills up I won’t be messing with feminized plants as much either. I don’t want to breed with them and insert genetic instability on the chromosome level, although with certain strains like sour diesel or cookie strains that instability is already present. 

5 hours ago, Simmsy said:

I've heard you can keep the plant in the vegetative state for as long as you want, is that true? My plants have been on the 18 hour light cycle for 2.5 months now and it doesn't seem like they're getting any bigger for flowering. I'd rather let these ones go and start over with new seeds.

Yes, people keep mother plants in a perpetual veg state so they can take clones. People can also re-veg previously harvested plants if they really like that phenotype, however it takes awhile and you have to keep a couple bud sites on there so they can make the transition. 
 

The amount of time to veg is so varied and is super context sensitive. However most people veg from 30-90 days with most doing it for 60 unless they’re pheno-hunting or doing sea of green, where they will veg for 30 days or even less. I’ve seen some people go straight to 12/12 after a couple weeks of seedling stage because they wanted to quickly run through cultivars to find certain genetic traits. 
 

Just an fyi, plants typically stretch or double in height the first three weeks or so of flower. However, I get it if you want to start over. So much of having a chill grow comes with starting strong and getting your environment on point. 
 

1 hour ago, mistertim said:

Any of you have experience with Gorilla Glue? I was a bit wary of it given it's super high THC content (up to 30% IIRC) but from what I've read it's still a very tranquil and relaxing high.

Yup, I like gorilla glue and I’m growing a nana glue right now (gg#4 x banana butter cups). GG is pretty strong, sticky, and sedative from what most people say. I’m bad at judging strength because my tolerance is so high, but it definitely isn’t racey or anxiety inducing. 

If you pick Northern Lights I recommend AK Bean Brains stock. He’s got a massive library of old school seeds like beatrix choice, skunk and northern lights. I’ve got his NL#5xTriangle KushxHaze (NL Dom) strain on my wish list. Apparently the **** is so strong it’ll make some people pass out, which is partly due to its medical benefit of lowering blood pressure in the body. 
 

I don’t know if it’s a good strain for beginners to grow though. I haven’t checked on that aspect yet.  

Man I ****ing love all the different flavors of weed. It’s such an incredible plant. 
 

We’ve got this gelonade which is lemon tree x gelato and the limonene terp has such a strong lemon flavor that it coats your tongue and is so damn delicious. 
 

We’ve also got some strawberry banana (strawberry bubblegum x banana Kush) that is like this super sweet strawberry bubblegum flavor that goes great with elbow farms maraschino cherriez and this other sweet dessert strain called Nice Cream. 
 

I’ve been learning some cool stuff about mono vs poly terpenes and how different ones pair with different methods of smoking. I’m trying to learn as much as possible about the flavor dynamics and breeding so I can one day make my own strains that are fine tuned to my palate and chemistry. 

@Simmsy

CalMag is a decent quick fix quite a few people use and might be worth a shot. 
 

Lolipopping or defoliation is something that is done with healthy plants in the last couple weeks of veg or the first week of flower so that energy is focused to the main bud sites and allows for better air circulation below the canopy. 
 

However, this is a stressor and not the time at all for dude to be doing that and these plants aren’t being given time to properly recover. 

1 hour ago, Llevron said:

 

Desantis is already saying he wont run if Trump will. Good political calculus. 

Ah, good to know. I wouldn’t be surprised if trump still goes after him. Purely for the fact that Desantis is getting attention that trump thinks should belong to him. 

I'm looking forward to when the whole Trump turning on DeSantis thing really gets going. Trump's a coward ass **** who can't stand competition and will go after anyone taking his shine.

8 hours ago, mistertim said:

Question for those more experienced than I. Is it better to just start with one strain or is it ok to try a few at a time? I'm thinking of doing 3 plants in a 4x2 tent. My initial idea is 3 strains but not sure if that would be overly complicated for a noob.

It’s easier to start with one strain at a time because they will tend to have similar feeding needs and should flower around the same amount of time versus juggling different plants with different feeding and flowering schedules. 
 

It takes a couple runs with most strains to really get them dialed in and learn how heavy or light a feeder they are, how much they stretch during flower, how stress and pest/mold resistant they are, etc.

@Simmsy

Damn, I’m sorry to hear that. It’s the accumulation of multiple stressors in quick succession and not being able to have the time and space to recover. The biggest challenge new growers have is leaving the plants the **** alone. They want things to go well so badly and they don’t realize the plant does the work and we just facilitate their needs and stay out of their way. 
 

Why the hell did this guy top the plants? Topping is high stress training and is often done after the plants have shown a 5th or 6th node and are in bigger size pots. Even in healthy conditions topping will slow growth as it has to recover and redirect hormones to the ancillary branches. These plants were in no position for topping and should have been left alone. They also needed to be up-potted as well. Most people keep them in those nursery pots for no more than 2 weeks. 
 

Its hard to tell from the picture if they can or can’t be saved though. It’s up to you if you want to give them a chance to recover or start over with new seeds or whatever. 

6 hours ago, Simmsy said:

Ok, so I tested the water and the soil. The soil is at a pH of about 8 and the water is at 6.2, so after letting the plants dry out a bit, I just went back to watering them as usual. They seem to be doing ok and the plant that was turning yellow seems to be doing a lot better, even started to turn green a little bit. Since my soil is a bit off, but not too much, should I even bother messing with it?

I wouldn’t mess with it. Give it more time to stabilize and then reassess. Depending on pot size, plants will run through the nutrients in their soil in like 4-6 weeks. So just keep an eye on things and look for your plants to get that really healthy dark green/black color where just the tips of the leafs are curled slightly down/inwards. 
 

If after a week or two it doesn’t reach that point you might want to think about topdressing your soil and giving it some nutrients. Keep in mind that organics are slow release amendments so you want to be ahead of the curve to get the timing right. If you miss it there are always teas one can make for quicker hits of nutrition. 

5 hours ago, Simmsy said:

Sorry, guys, been a bit too busy to respond. The water tester came yesterday, but no pH up/down yet. I'll let you know how it goes when I get home tonight. Also, by fixing the pH, will that fix any nutrient problems that I may have as well or do I need to buy nutrients specifically?

It depends on what’s in the soil you’re using. I would make sure your ph is on point and let your plants recover a bit from the overwatering and then reassess. You don’t want to make too many changes too quickly until you have a better idea of what’s going on and what’s needed to fix things. One of the biggest challenges when growing is fighting the need to do too much, especially when there are problems. Sometimes chasing a solution to a problem makes solving it that much harder. 
 

If you need to adjust your ph you can use baking soda and apple cider vinegar. 
 

Later on you can top dress your plants and feed them dry amendments that way. Which you can do according to my recipe above but also include gardening gypsum which will help with calcium, sulfur, and ph buffering as it’s broken down in the soil. 

8 hours ago, Simmsy said:

I can't tell you the exact brand off the top of my head, but it was soil that would be comparable to growing for tomatoes. I was told that Fox Farm or something of the like was the way to go, but its too expensive for our first time out. I was also told that with that soil, you don't have to worry about pH or nutrients. Not sure how true that is, but I didn't want to spend that much money on something I'm not sure about yet.

 

The top soil was working great and i was very fine with good drainage, but that might be garbage now. We transplanted half of the plants (the ones big enough), but the new soil is a bit different. It looks more like a mulch and doesn't have any perlite in the soil. I was also told that this would be ok, I guess we'll find out.

Ah okay, well I highly doubt the soil they sold you will carry you all the way through harvest without amending with nutrients. Even the highest quality soil mixes require amending at some point unless we’re talking about 20-30 gallon pots of soil that have been enriched over multiple growing cycles. 
 

I build my own soil mix and use the following recipe. Maybe this will help in the future as a template. Many soil mixes call for a 33/33/33 ratio but I’m growing in 5 gallon fabric pots so I increased my aeration and lowered my worm poop. I also have custom made foliar sprays to use weekly and I’ll throw in some sprouted seed teas made from alfalfa as needed. 
 

Top Dressing 2 (or maybe 3) times during life cycle. Target last week of veg and Week 4 of flower with 1/2 cup each of neem meal, kelp meal, 1/4 cup alfalfa, and 1-3/4 cup of worm castings, with a 1/4 cup of barley.

1 hour ago, Simmsy said:

I don't know what the pH of the water is, we have a water tester coming tomorrow, but the soil is at about pH 8 right now. I took four years of horticulture in highschool, but this is my first time growing MJ plants and growing something indoors. As for watering, I've been only sticking my finger (up to the first knuckle) into the soil, if it's dry, it gets water. I believer my partner is just looking at the soil and seeing if it looks dry. The plant having problems was soaking wet the other day, I assume that is why its dying. I've told him not to water them so much, but it looks like I'm going to have to forbid him from watering the plants anymore.

Sounds like a plan. I hope things turn out well for you all. If you don’t mind me asking, what kind of soil are you using and what level and kind of aeration?

Ive found that the smaller the pot the greater the need for more aeration which makes me have to amend some of the ratios I see in soil recipes on the internet. 

15 minutes ago, mistertim said:

@Fresh8686is there any noticeable difference between plants that are grown "organically" and ones that use chemical fertilizers, etc?

From what I’ve seen well grown is well grown, regardless of the method. However, once you get an understanding of the dynamics in play and build your soil right, imo organic is easier, cheaper, and much better for the environment.  
 

The soil actually gets better overtime and when you polycrop and companion plant it auto-buffers ph, is drought and overwatering resistant, and pest resistant. I’m more comfortable with my organic foliar sprays, plain waterings, and top dressings rather than mixing a bunch of chemicals and navigating all the different brands. 
 

Plus, at the end of the day it’s about what you’re putting in your lungs and I’d much rather have plants grown with organic certified amendments and neem oil type pest control rather than synthetic salts and pesticides.  

1 hour ago, Simmsy said:

The very tops of my plants are starting to turn yellow, after doing some research it looks like the PH in my soil is too high (it was fine before, why would it suddenly go up?). I've ordered some PH up/Down, but does anyone any experience with that?

What is the ph of your water and are you de-chlorinating your water before feeding? The below table will give you an idea of what nutrients and minerals get locked out at different ph’s.

In organic grows, oyster shell and gypsum are used for both the minerals they provide but also because they are natural ph buffers. Fluctuations will naturally occur as things breakdown within the soil, but you want to make sure your initial waterings have the correct ph and nothing in it that swings the soil too far in any direction.

You can naturally ph up/down your water with baking soda and apple cider vinegar respectively. 

1 hour ago, Simmsy said:

My roommate and I are doing this, I've quit my job and started working for myself (temporarily), so he's kinda the financier and I'm the researcher/grower. He keeps watering them too much, I've told him several times to leave it alone, but he keeps doing it. There have been plenty of times where I've checked the soil to see if they need water and the soil is mushy, we've got the PH stuff coming tomorrow, but do yo think letting the plants dry out a bit would help? The PH in the soil is still 2 too high, but I guess I can add that for the next watering.

Let it dry out a bit. The worse thing about over watering is when it happens repeatedly and the plant starts to get over stressed and stunted. 
 

Are you all weighing your pots by hand to determine when to water? Get a feel for them dry and then when watered and finally when halfway dried. Or you can look into blumats and auto watering.