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Posts posted by Veretax

  1. Even as we Redskin fans suffer through another season of apparent failure, it seems that not everything you read about the Redskins is true.  This afternoon I saw friends posting on Facebook about a planned name change for the organization.  My friends on facebook who shared a url that said we were changing the name to the "Red Hawks".  However, when I came to the Washington Post Site below, and looked to see what the Post thought, I found out it was not so at all, somewhat relieved actually.:



    Clearly the name change is FakeNews.   (I must admit I almost believed it myself, and several friends apparently were suckered by it today.)

    I'm not posting the link that I saw, and according to the Post article, Redskins Park is already aware.  I didn't see this in the news section, so thought it deserved to be shared.   It seems almost anything could be fake news these days.

    (I'll admit, though RedHawks is not the worst potential renaming suggestion I've seen recently, if push came to shove and we did.  However, Hail to the Redskins! #HTTR)

  2. So I just saw news that (Loosen up Sandy baby. You're wound way to tight.) may have injured his back against the Seahawks

    And their rookie RB, Elliot, was seen at a Colorado Marijuana store...




  3. Sanchez has strenghts but he basically caps out as a game manager type.


    Geno is awful. Like, really really awful. Nobody is winning with that guy.




    I haven't seen enough of Geno to jump to a conclusion on him.  The jets are quite the dysfunctional franchise right now.  I don't think he's top echelon, and he's got similar issues that RG3 has of holding the ball too long and being afraid to make mistakes (at least the last time I saw him play).  I'm  not convinced we've seen the last of him in the NFL, but he's not had much support from what I can tell from where I sit.  

  4. I'd post a video I just found on Youtube, but I don't know if its appropriate to post a youtube video of a cowboys fan ranting and cursing about the win.



    And then I found this one...



    oh and then this one of a Dallas fan crying

  5. LOL.  That Bryant reverse TD is essentially the reason that Catch rules were revised in light of the Calvin Johnson play a few years ago..  Even if its a TD in the end, I still suspect Green bay wins this one.

    The sad part is Tony Romo,

    Noone will believe he actually beat the Lions last week
    And noone will believe he lost this one to the Packers.


  6. Problem #1: I believe twa is right and, while what he pasted doesn't list the part to be replaced, it's the hazard switch that needs to be replaced. I believe this will take care of your turn signal problem.

    Problem #2: It sounds like the ignition switch is going bad. The ignition switch is the electrical part that is connected to the ignition lock (where you put the key). If it is going bad, it can cause a "no start" condition because the switch isn't sending any signal to start the car. That may also be the cause of your various lights you are getting in the dash. If the switch loses signal while the car is running, it can cause a whole litany of strange problems. Simply put, part of the car may think that it isn't running when it actually is and some electrical components might not be powered because the switch is telling them that the car isn't running. I'd start with the switch (as far as your starting problem) and go from there.

    Well I already replaced the Hazard switch today, and the part worked at least for the hazard lights, but the left and right individuals still were not working right. I mean they work when the lights aren't on the dash, but when they are, they don't. Weird.

    I went over to advance because I was pricing the switch for my AC Fan speed controller, and saw they do free Starter and Alternator Checks. So I had them try it. Sure enough the car didn't want to start. Battery has plenty of cranking amps (its rated at 875, and was at I think 809 on his read out, which for a 2yr battery is probably good.) The Alternator was putting out juice according to his readout, but he couldn't get a good gauge on the starter because it stuttered before starting. The more I think about it the more I think it is the switch.

    This is ironic because a year ago I had to replace the lock cylinder because it locked up. That was the only part we replaced, its possible that I may end up replacing it and the switch again to get this right. Thanks for the advice, and I Hadn't thought about the engine not thinking its on, but my neighbor who's been helping me with the car, noted that sometimes a car may be in park, but not think it is, and hence won't let it start. Thanks for the advice, its much appreciated.

  7. Got one possibly two different problems with my car and need some Mechanic advice.

    I have a 2000 Chevy Impala (3.8L V6). The two problems are this:

    1. The turn signals seem to work almost none of the time. Every now and then they'll decide to work, but mostly they don't and sometimes I get a 'buzzing' sound when I try to actuate them while driving. The four way hazard switch works (and I tried replacing it as some articles I saw online lead me to think that maybe that was the problem.) On top of that, other lights in the Instrument cluster light up but don't appear to be actually having problems, namely:

    Traction Control Off Light


    Air Bag Sensor Light

    ANd sometimes the service panel will put out a Battery warning, or a Service Traction System Warning. I'm not sure I believe the later, because I have felt the Traction control kick in despite this light being off in the rain in the last few weeks.

    2. Starting the car seems tricky. Sometimes I get in the car turn the key and its fine. Other times I can turn it, and after jiggling it a bit it will start. Other times it won't start unless I press down on the pedal (brake). I am wondering if this could be a sign of a fault in the switch or alternator. I don't think its the starter, as the car does eventually turn over. The other thing when the key is engaged often I don't here the starter 'click' until I release the key, which seems unusual.

    Anyhow, problem 2 cropped up while I was waiting for a part I was told might solve the instrument panel lights. The Hazard lights do work with the current switch, but the turn signals seldom work.

    Any suggestions on what the possible Cause might be?

  8. On that engine, I believe that the crankshaft position sensor is located down on the bottom near the crank pulley (aka: harmonic balancer). It's probably not too hard to replace but it may need to be lifted into the air in order to access it.

    Generally, the crankshaft position sensor gets its reference off of the crank pulley. Therefore, it would make sense for the crankshaft position sensor to be located directly adjacent to the crank pulley.

    Yeah the 3.8 L sits sideways with the belts on the passenger side. Something tells me your right about ti being near the bottom, which means I'll probably have to take it to a mechanic as a lift is just not an option on my hillside street lol.

  9. Veretax, I had the same issue with My Monte Carlo 3.8 l 3800. It would hesitate and sometimes stall in the middle of traffic going 50mph +. I did the same thing got the error code and replaced the CPS, but still had the issue. Long story short, replaced MAF (mass airflow sensor) never had the problem again. I would look for one at the junkyard first (pretty common engine) before buying new.

    Mass airflow sensor? No clue where that would be either. What I'm trying to diagnose is whether this is something me and a buddy can do in a couple of hours one weekend. Or am I going to have to take it to a garage because of where the CPS is located.

    That and I think its time to change plugs too.

  10. Well after my car stalled on me a few times in traffic, the check Eng lite finally came on so I took it down to advance to read the computer. Computer points to the Crankshaft Position Sensor (or is that ignition sensor?) Amazing the Advance guy guessed it was that a few days ago, but we had no way to prove it.

    So I'm looking around the engine (3.8L 3800) for my Chevy Impala (2000) and I can't for the life of me figure out where it is based on the picture they showed me at the parts store.

    Does anyone have any idea whether this is a bottom/top side part or how to locate it?

  11. The bleed is to get air bubbles from the lines,which is usually evident by more brake pressure need to stop and more pedal travel

    I'm assuming you have checked the fluid level in the reservoir?

    Actually no I haven't checked the reservoir. I'd need to figure out where it is to check it.

  12. Sounds like they need air bled out or adjusted

    Or of course the master cylinder going out

    Do they feel spongy when pressure is applied

    I wouldn't describe it as a bleed.... The brakes do slow the car with the very light pressure. Just they don't really seem to hammer down unless I go to the floor. TH eold brakes were almost done so... i'm assuming its because they've not worn in yet.

  13. So with the old brakes the pedal would go to the floor? With the new brakes it's a lot more tight?

    If so, that is normal.

    No. The breaks slow the car as soon as you apply pressure, but they don't really do so quickly unless i push the pedal almost to the floor (this after the new pads were put on). Before I hardly had to use little if any additional pressure at all to get the brakes to do that.

  14. Well I got my car's oil changed, and new front brakes put on, and a question came up.

    Is it normal when you put new brakes on for the feel of the pedal to be a bit different? (Like I noticed the brakes would slow the car with little pressure, but if I needed to stop faster the pedal has to go to the floor) I assume some of that is normal given the pads were near their end of life expectancy.

  15. My impala did that to me one time. just cut out at a stop light and I didn't notice it till I went to pull out. Never did figure out what caused it though as I was never able to get the behavior to duplicate.

    (I wondered if it had something to do with the recalled ignition wires that got replaced a few weeks thereafter)

  16. It's all a piece of cake once you realize it's just nuts and bolts!

    ...and circuits and plastic and drills... :silly:

    Thanks, I figured it was worth trying to do myself if all it cost me was time, worse case scenario I could still take it to a mechanic. But having done this my confidence in working on my car has gone up, I may next try to change my own plugs which are probably about due. I think I need to get a special tool/socket to pull them out though.

  17. I don't normally like to double post, but wanted to tell you guys how it went.

    First we thought that trying some WD-40 was worth trying. It didn't work so much, and the locking mechanism remained locked up, so about 4 o clock my neighbor and I set out to see if we could fix this problem. So after about an hour taking off some of the cosmetic pieces of the dash, top and bottom, removing a support beneath the steering column, we finally got the ignition out.

    It took a little while to figure out how to get the lock out, and we thought before we started doing too much to go price the part, and make sure it was in stock, it was but I wanted to make sure it was a compettive price (was about $189 at advance for the part plus some grease I think it was to help keep it from corroding).

    So we came back and how do you get the old lock out? Well as the instructions said you have to drill out the spring that holds it in place, but finding that was more difficult. On my car the pin was almost out on the bottom T like section piece of the ignition. But the instructions were basically right other than that. you had to drill out that pin and then get the spring out and it slid right out.

    At that point we went to buy the part and got back to work. Getting it to reseat was tricky, but I took a look at the back part inside and realized that it was turned a particular way. Because the button would only stay down in the 'on' position, you have to use a screwdriver (std) to gently turn it to the right slot so it seats right. That worked, we tried to get the key out after we got it in, and that proved a problem, so we pulled the lock back out and looked at it, and decided well let's see if this switch works.

    (BTW before you put that sucker in I recommend removing the battery's ground from the battery, we did.) when we hooked the battery up, the lights came on the thing would turn, but it wouldn't start, and the dash lights didn't come on. It was then we realized the switching mechanism (4 brass or metal like pieces that have 2 big leavers one with 3 one with 2 nodes and two other pieces to help complete the circuits, had gotten bumped off so we had to figure out, like a jigsaw puzzle the right way. In hind sight next time I'd take a picture of that part so i could get it back together faster.

    Once that was done we started it up and it worked fine. We removed the battery again, remounted the ignition, put the dash components back on and it started fine. Lastly we had to restore the gearshifter to normal settings because the tow driver had loosened it up a bit (there's a clip that is necessary to hold it in place, and another part that was a little loose.)

    Then a 15 minute test drive, setting the clock to the bank's clock, and everything seems fine. My wife got the idea to paint nail polish on the old door keys so we could tell them a part, and while you could get the door tumblers rekeyed, I didn't see the point, having two keys is the way things used to be anyways.

    SO all in all we were out 189, and it only took about 4-5 hours to actually do the work on this job. It probably would have been faster if we had our tools out and ready to go ahead of time. (Drill bits, a ratchet with an extender, 10 mm I think it was?) things like that.

    Anyhow, It was worth doing, and I learned a lot about how my car was put together, but who would have thought this little piece of steel/aluminum that i can cup my hand around would be responsible for keeping it from starting, being stolen. Crazy eh? ;)