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3D Printing (picture heavy)


RedskinsMayne

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Hi.

 

Does anyone here have a 3D printer? I've owned a cheap chinese replikeo prussa i3 and a rostock max v2 that i currently use for printing. And, i'm currently working on building a custom Core XY printer. I print all sorts of things with the printer. I've printed phone mounts,  masks, and a lot of enclosures for various projects.

 

LED's got me into Arduino, and Arduino got me into 3D printing. And now that I'm into 3D printing i've found a nice hobby.


 

Anyway, i am working on a coreXY machine with an approximate build platform of 18" cubed. For those of you who don't know, that is a large format printer. The gold standard prussa i3 has a build platform of around 8" cubed, for comparison.

 

My design is inspired and almost entirely coppied from The Digital Dentist's build over at RepRap.org. His printer is almost done, but I was so impressed with his build that I took at look at his pictures and I'm in the process of building an approximation. 

 

He has access to a milling machine, and I don't, so had to make some sacrifices to account for this, but over all its looking good.


 

 

IMG_4998.jpg

 

I was able to finish a version of the effector mount. I haven't fully decided on my hotend it yet so there is definitely going to be changes.... im thinking about either dual e3dV6 or i've already a cyclops i modified to have water cooling. I want to do a direct drive (no bowden) system, however. I have might have some Nimble extruders for the cyclops, and if they get here and work that might be OK. The only issue is now i have a big printer and i really need a .8 nozzle or larger to make practical use of it and they are only available with e3d v6. 

 

 


IMG_5001.jpg

 


The motor mount didn't have enough "play" to get it to where i need to be in order to make the belts parallel, which is a requirement for coreXY printers, so i've got another one printing down that shifts the upper square over. derp.  You can also see where i've added some mechanical stops to prevent the rail from sliding off the guides. Had that happen to me yesterday. Not again! (not a big deal, the rails have ball bearing retainers).

IMG_5002.jpg

 

 

IMG_5003.jpg

 

Thanks to The Digital Dentist for the idea of the belt mount. 

 

 

IMG_5004.jpg

 

 

IMG_5005.jpg

 

 

IMG_5006.jpg

 

 

IMG_5007.jpg

 

 

IMG_5008.jpg

 

 


Overall, the belts look parallel, which is good news. I'm waiting on the slowboat to get here for the larger pullys for the idler bearings... only option was to get them on aliexpress and wait forever. Well, unless you wanted to pay $15each for them. I've got an old RAMBO board hanging around so once i get the motor spacers reprinted i might fire it up and see how she chootches!. I've made some hole in the effector mount to attach a spare linear rail to so i can try the pencil thing DD did. I think that is a great way to check for backlash/optimum speeds, since you can easily see the ripple. Though, i expect with the hotend attached you might have to run a bit slower because of the added mass.

 

 

 

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Very cool.


I'm a middle school math teacher.  We have two 3D printers in my classroom that are indefinite loan from our partner high school.  The kids love using them.  I actually just started helping a few third graders with a project to do some simple 3D printing.


One of our 8th grade students designed a really incredible castle on TinkerCAD, but it's too large to print on our Printrbots with any kind of detail.

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Yep, that is part of the reason i'm going larger. i have a delta that can supposedly print 12" in diameter, but delta have a wonky kinematic once you print outside the triangle formed by the arms and require very precise build quality and calibration... i can print out to about 9" diameter before it begins to turn into more a hastle than its worth.. 

 

you should divide the castle into 4 parts, and print them. Then just use some superglue :)

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