DCsportsfan53

What kind of car first of all and what are you considering premature wear for tires and brakes?

I've had so many people tell me, including "professional" mechanics, that they've checked the fuse and it's good only to find a blown fuse that no matter what someone tells me I always check it myself. Are you 100% sure the fuse isn't blown? How did you check it? Otherwise, the series resistor for the blower motor could be the culprit, have you tried all fan speeds? Many cars send direct power to the motor on highest speed bypassing the resistor so when the resistor fails you'll only have the highest speed. Also could be the switch itself or the motor itself. Impossible to say exactly but I doubt it would be a 4 figure repair.....unless it's one of those electronic/automatic climate control systems and the control module ate it.

Heel toe does, rev matching isn't too hard to learn. you're not doing your car any favors down shifting without it, though. The savings to your brake pads are minimal and clutches and mounts are a lot pricier than brake pads.

A clutch is wearing any time the pedal is not fully released or fully depressed so that time should be minimized. What rpm you shift at isn't really a factor, smoothness is. The more you make the car jerk and buck, the more wear and not just on the clutch. If you do downshift, I enjoy it myself, you should learn to rev match as this will save wear on all components in the drivetrain. That said, if you're getting 100k plus on a clutch you're not doing bad. Slave cylinder failing is not related, their internal seals fail over time, nothing to do with driving style but the failure can lead to a clutch failure by contaminating the disc with brake fluid. This reminds me of a conversation I've had with my wife more times than I like. She has a habit if coasting in neutral down a hill then back into 4th with a jerk and I ask her why she wants me to have to replace her engine mounts and axles? Either rev match or leave it in gear, dammit.

I played the hell out of that game on Nintendo 64, I can hear the voice in my head now.

If the head gasket blew are you having the head checked for warping at a machine shop (or yourself with a straight edge)? If so the machine shop should be able to get it spotless in their hot tank for not much coin.

Was the car actually low on oil when you added and how much did you add?

Is it a steady on/off blink or is it flickering? More likely an issue with the charging system. I've seen that several times on older cars with external voltage regulators. The brushes wear out, make poor contact and you get the flickering battery light. Someone else can chime in on that particular car as to the alternator having an internal or external regulator. If external it might be a cheap fix. Also could be something like a poor connection or a slipping belt but I think those would be less likely. Not too familiar with that particular car but I imagine it has a serpentine belt, not the old v belts so slipping belt is less likely.

Cannot believe I'm going to be the first one to suggest this so here goes. Vet min plus incentives?

Now that's what I called pwned, unsonny.

Felines are evil, evil creatures I tell you.

It's clearly from some kind of TV show or something. Must we break out the granny panties for everything?

:rotflmao: It took me a second to figure it out but when I did.....that made my ****ty afternoon much better.

Timing belt replacement varies greatly between manufacturer and engine. Outside of visually inspecting the belt for obvious wear and cracks, there is no way to no it's on it's way out until it snaps and then you're SOL. If the tensioner's locking up you may get warning noise from it before it takes the belt out. Bottom line, don't play with it, expensive engine damage will likely result if it fails. Consult your owner's manual or look it up online and don't exceed the recommended mileage/time interval of replacement. Not worth the cost. ---------- Post added November-21st-2011 at 09:54 AM ---------- Ren, send me a PM and I'll get you in touch with someone. A good friend of mine for over a decade, and probably the only person other than myself I would trust to work on my car, is the only tech at a small shop is Silver Spring. They have very reasonable rates, he knows his stuff and is honest.

So glad I didn't renew this year, such a good decision.