Springfield

The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread

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Pulled out of the garage this morning and noticed that there was a puddle of water under the van (front of car). 

 

What are possible sources? Is this something that I need to get to a mechanic to look at ASAP?

 

Van has been in garage unused for ten days. It's water, I got down and touched it and smelled it. 

 

Parked my van this morning at work and there was a puddle under it again, about 3-inches in diameter.

Edited by Elessar78

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Non mechanic here but was it hot when you last drove it? Could be remnants of the AC condensating.

 

Still.. 10 days seems like a long time for the puddle to have lasted.  

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We just got back from vacation and I thought about it and my wife said she did drive it for a bit yesterday. I think it is just condensation. 

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I would hit it hard with the sea foam... You might even pay for the injector service. Also keep that air filter clean

Thanks for the answer. sorry it took me so long to see it.

Pour it into the crankcase,, fuel tank, spray into carb?

 

~Bang

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We just got back from vacation and I thought about it and my wife said she did drive it for a bit yesterday. I think it is just condensation. 

 

if it is clear water it is just condensation, normal

 

here the ac puts out a river of water

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Seems like a good thread.

I own a 2000 F-150. (Only 65,000 miles, because I almost never use it, since I'm taking care of mom. Excellent condition.). (Automatic, standard cab, 8 foot bed, standard engine, if any of that matters).

I've got a friend who's moving, and I've offered to help. There's a chance we'll be looking at renting a u-Haul trailer. (Just to carry more things, and for rain protection).

Now, the truck is rated for towing 5,000 lbs. and the bumper hitch is also rated for 5,000. (Meaning, the bumper has a hole for mounting a ball. No, there's no square hole receiver for a hitch).

I'm wondering in I NEED a receiver. (For one thing, the bumper might be higher than I'd like the hitch to be).

And, if I need one, do I let U-Haul install it? I assume they'll do the cheapest quick and dirty thing available. Is that a problem?

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never assume they will do anything cheap  :)

Oh, my "cheap" comment referred to the expected quality, not the price charged.

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Got a headlight question. This has probably been asked in here before but I couldn't find it. So I, like millions of others had an issue with my headlight getting hazy. Through some trial and error, I found that using a drill attachment and hitting em with some 3000 grit sand paper followed by a polishing compound made them look like new(in case anyone was looking for something to try). However, the haze starts to come back after a few months. Just wondering if any one has had success or has a recommendation for something that will keep the lens looking clear longer. I've tried waxing them bit that didn't help. I've seen some sealants and stuff talked about in a few searches but I trust you guys more for some honest feedback.

And fyi, if anyone decides to try the 3000 grit sandpaper, remember to keep it wet through the whole process.

Edited by BALLz

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Got a headlight question. This has probably been asked in here before but I couldn't find it. So I, like millions of others had an issue with my headlight getting hazy. Through some trial and error, I found that using a drill attachment and hitting em with some 3000 grit sand paper followed by a polishing compound made them look like new(in case anyone was looking for something to try). However, the haze starts to come back after a few months. Just wondering if any one has had success or has a recommendation for something that will keep the lens looking clear longer. I've tried waxing them bit that didn't help. I've seen some sealants and stuff talked about in a few searches but I trust you guys more for some honest feedback.

And fyi, if anyone decides to try the 3000 grit sandpaper, remember to keep it wet through the whole process.

Some kits/compounds work better than others. I used a 3M kit and the headlights still looked good more than a year later. Of course, the more time you spend the better the end result will be.

That said, it may sometimes be a better option to just replace the lenses.

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if they continue to fade ya need to remove more of the clearcoat,(which is what usually yellows) or of course remove it all and reclear or just polish the plastic.

 

ya can use a heavier grit then finish with the fine to better remove it

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Springfield, any thoughts on Amsoil transmission fluid?

 

I just bought an F150 that I plan to do a lot of towing with.  I'd like to look at swapping out the transmission, gear, and transfer case fluids with 100% synthetic in the interest of perfomance and preservation.

 

But, I'm finding that every single mechanic in the entire state thinks I'm speaking a foreign language.  (you need  vacuum equipment to do the change, the pan only holds 3 quarts out of the 13 in the tranny.  So, not a DIY project)

 

Conversation goes like this

 

Me:  Hi, I'd like to talk to someone about transmission fluid

Them:  Sure, what do you need

Me:  I just bought an F150, can you change all the fluid in it?

Them:  Sure, what year?

Me:  2015

Them:  Huh?

Me:  Yah, I'd like to go synthetic.

Them:  What's synthetic?  

Me:  You're a ****ing idiot.

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Seems like a good thread.

I own a 2000 F-150. (Only 65,000 miles, because I almost never use it, since I'm taking care of mom. Excellent condition.). (Automatic, standard cab, 8 foot bed, standard engine, if any of that matters).

I've got a friend who's moving, and I've offered to help. There's a chance we'll be looking at renting a u-Haul trailer. (Just to carry more things, and for rain protection).

Now, the truck is rated for towing 5,000 lbs. and the bumper hitch is also rated for 5,000. (Meaning, the bumper has a hole for mounting a ball. No, there's no square hole receiver for a hitch).

I'm wondering in I NEED a receiver. (For one thing, the bumper might be higher than I'd like the hitch to be).

And, if I need one, do I let U-Haul install it? I assume they'll do the cheapest quick and dirty thing available. Is that a problem?

 

 

yes, you need a receiver.  Also, be very sure you check the GVWR of the trailer.  You might need a weight distribution hitch as well.

 

Also, be very careful of GVWR for your vehicle.  For instance:

Your Uhaul trailer gross weight is 5000 lbs.  (loaded out weight, not dry weight).

 

That makes your Tongue Weight roughly 6-700 lbs.  Your GWVR on your truck is probably 5500 lbs, based on a quick google search.  Your curb weight is probably 4300 lbs or so, maybe more.

 

So, that means you can safely load 1200 pounds on your car.  (GVWR - Curb Weight)

 

You - 200 lbs

Passenger  - 200 lbs

Tongue Weight - 600 lbs

Full Tank of gas - 160 lbs

 

uh oh... you're at 1160 lbs already... you've got 40 pounds left until over your weight limit.  Better not put ANYTHING in the bed of the truck.  Don't get the supersize meal at Mickey D's, either.

 

This is what is NEVER taken into account with tow ratings.  Ford F150 boasts a tow rating of 12000 pounds.  That means you can safely tow about a 7500 lbs trailer.  Not sure why manufacturers are allowed to get away with that kind of crap, but they are.

 

Check the sticker on the inside of your door.  Will tell you GVWR and should also tell you max cargo capacity.

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Springfield, any thoughts on Amsoil transmission fluid?

 

I just bought an F150 that I plan to do a lot of towing with.  I'd like to look at swapping out the transmission, gear, and transfer case fluids with 100% synthetic in the interest of perfomance and preservation.

 

But, I'm finding that every single mechanic in the entire state thinks I'm speaking a foreign language.  (you need  vacuum equipment to do the change, the pan only holds 3 quarts out of the 13 in the tranny.  So, not a DIY project)

 

Conversation goes like this

 

Me:  Hi, I'd like to talk to someone about transmission fluid

Them:  Sure, what do you need

Me:  I just bought an F150, can you change all the fluid in it?

Them:  Sure, what year?

Me:  2015

Them:  Huh?

Me:  Yah, I'd like to go synthetic.

Them:  What's synthetic?  

Me:  You're a ****ing idiot.

 

 

I work at a GM dealer Zoony so I'm not to keen on what Ford uses but I'm curious, do they use semi-synthetic in it now?  But if you were looking to go full synthetic I would go with Amsoil.  I used Amsoil in my trans, transfercase and Dif on my Evo and it shifted flawlessly.

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I work at a GM dealer Zoony so I'm not to keen on what Ford uses but I'm curious, do they use semi-synthetic in it now?  But if you were looking to go full synthetic I would go with Amsoil.  I used Amsoil in my trans, transfercase and Dif on my Evo and it shifted flawlessly.

 

 

Yah I've been told it's a synthetic blend

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Long answer.

Well, according to the towing information sheet I got with the truck, when I bought it, my vehicle is rated to tow 5,000 lbs. (Actually 5,050 lbs.)

But only rated for a tongue weight of 100 lbs.

And the bumper itself says (stamped into the metal near the hitch mounting hole.) that it's rated for 5,000, and tongue weight of 100.

(And as it turns out, we rented a U-Haul truck, because it was a lot easier to deal with. (The trailer only had like 5 feet of interior height, which would have made loading a real PITA.) And because they were actually the same price per day. (Kinda. The truck also has a change per mile. But it was a cross-town move, so almost no milage.)

 

Mainly I didn't know if I'd need a receiver,

 

1)  Because of the bumper's height.

2)  Or if U Haul was going to refuse to rent to me without a receiver.  (Either for some reason I'm not aware of, or as a marketing move to get me to pay them a lot of money for what I assume is a really cheap receiver.) 

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You need a load equalization hitch to balance out the tongue weight, and you need a receiver.

 

Do not tow with the bumper hitch unless it's a lawnmower trailer or something ultra light duty

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What Zoony said. Without a hitch package you're just asking for trouble. You can probably get the hitch and have it installed for about $500. The only issue you'll run into is if the truck is wired for an hitch package or not. The BCM will most likely need to be reprogrammed as well to account for the trailer lights and such.

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Is it true that german cars are significantly more expensive to maintain than american or japanese cars?  Or is this either a) something that used to be true, but isn't really anymore; or b ) just a filthy lie concocted by the UAW and/or the Illuminati?

Edited by PleaseBlitz

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Is it true that german cars are significantly more expensive to maintain than american or japanese cars? Or is this either a) something that used to be true, but isn't really anymore; or b ) just a filthy lie concocted by the UAW and/or the Illuminati?

For the most part, yes, they're significantly more expensive to maintain.

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Is it true that german cars are significantly more expensive to maintain than american or japanese cars?  Or is this either a) something that used to be true, but isn't really anymore; or b ) just a filthy lie concocted by the UAW and/or the Illuminati?

 

how long do you plan on keeping it?  My dad drives nothing but Audis, but he only keeps them 2 years.  So in that respect, who cares how expensive they are to maintain?  Most German car dealers offer extended service packages, free oil changes, etc. free of charge when you buy the car

 

And most new cars nowadays you can buy a warranty ... I bought a 100,000 mile bumper to bumper for $1200 or something like that.  I'm sure you could do the same for any German car.

 

But yes, there is nothing worse than an old German car in need of maintenance and/or repair.  In my younger days I had a Mercedes 190 that needed a hose for the air conditioner.  It was $800.  And that was just the hose... another $250 to install it.

 

If it were a Ford or Chevy it would have been a $120 repair out the door.

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And fyi, if anyone decides to try the 3000 grit sandpaper, remember to keep it wet through the whole process.

 

Clearcoat paint them after the process. Seriously.

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how long do you plan on keeping it?  My dad drives nothing but Audis, but he only keeps them 2 years.  So in that respect, who cares how expensive they are to maintain?  Most German car dealers offer extended service packages, free oil changes, etc. free of charge when you buy the car

 

And most new cars nowadays you can buy a warranty ... I bought a 100,000 mile bumper to bumper for $1200 or something like that.  I'm sure you could do the same for any German car.

 

But yes, there is nothing worse than an old German car in need of maintenance and/or repair.  In my younger days I had a Mercedes 190 that needed a hose for the air conditioner.  It was $800.  And that was just the hose... another $250 to install it.

 

If it were a Ford or Chevy it would have been a $120 repair out the door.

 

I don't really know how long I plan on keeping it.  That will probably depend on how expensive it is to maintain.  LOL.  

 

I turned down the extended service package, seems similar to extended warranties on appliances, which are a terrible deal.  Plus, the lady pitching it to me smelled like she died in a fire 6 months earlier, so I really wanted to get out of that room.  Also, the warranty sounds like a decent idea, but the car isn't new, it' a 2012.

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