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The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread

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There has been a debate in whether to change the transmission fluid on high milage cars.

 

I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with over 200K, and it seems like it may need to change the transmission fluid, because it's been sluggish at times changing gears, and its been skipping too.  I've heard that if you change the fluid of your car that it'll do more harm then good.  So I have no clue on what to do.  

 

Any ideas, suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  

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I've heard the same thing but only with American cars (jeeps), not with Toyotas or Hondas. But I guess that doesn't mean anything since I'm not an expert.


I'm rather familiar with them, and yes the electronic gizmo's are a pain when they act up
the rollers tend to wear out if not lubed and they just slide on the shaft until it gets so rough it sticks.

not a hard fix if you are handy

I'm less worried about the actual fixing of the mechanism, but it's more of the jacking up of the cabin interior. Sometimes it's so hard to get into those panels.

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There has been a debate in whether to change the transmission fluid on high milage cars.

I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with over 200K, and it seems like it may need to change the transmission fluid, because it's been sluggish at times changing gears, and its been skipping too. I've heard that if you change the fluid of your car that it'll do more harm then good. So I have no clue on what to do.

Any ideas, suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

In short, if your transmission fails after changing the fluid it was bound to happen anyhow. You may be accelerating the process by flushing it but flushing a perfectly healthy transmission will never damage it.

If you think your transmission is failing, then it's a coin toss on what to do. Either way, the transmission will probably end up needing major repair in the end.

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I

I'm less worried about the actual fixing of the mechanism, but it's more of the jacking up of the cabin interior. Sometimes it's so hard to get into those panels.

 

 

You can change the rear roller arm w/o removing anything(other than a pin) but it is tricky

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So I have a new 2014 jeep wrangler. The dealer told me change oil at about 7500 miles when the oil indicator light comes on.  I was headed out on a long trip, so I changed it at about 5700 miles beforehand.  Now I'm at 8500 and the "change oil required" light is on.  Its only been 2800 miles since my last oil change, so this makes no sense.  Is the oil indicator simply designed to go off at certain mileage intervals, or does this mean there's an issue with my oil and it needs to be replaced.  Thanks.

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So I have a new 2014 jeep wrangler. The dealer told me change oil at about 7500 miles when the oil indicator light comes on.  I was headed out on a long trip, so I changed it at about 5700 miles beforehand.  Now I'm at 8500 and the "change oil required" light is on.  Its only been 2800 miles since my last oil change, so this makes no sense.  Is the oil indicator simply designed to go off at certain mileage intervals, or does this mean there's an issue with my oil and it needs to be replaced.  Thanks.

ya just need to reset the light, the shop obviously didn't reset it(should be in the manual)

add

Turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position, do not start the engine.

Fully depress the accelerator pedal slowly three times within 10 seconds.

Turn the ignition switch to the OFF/LOCK position.

NOTE: If the indicator message illuminates when you start the vehicle, the oil change indicator system did not reset. If necessary, repeat this procedure.

All information is taken from the Jeep Wrangler owners manual.

Edited by twa

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All information is taken from the Jeep Wrangler owners manual.

My mechanic has checked out my '99 Monte Carlo at least a half dozen times to get the "Service Engine Soon" light to go off...he did an almost total "re-do" on it, the thing is almost brand new minus a paint job. Got a solution? I can find how to reset my key-bob online, but not how to get that light to go off.

Trust me, the engine needs nothing. I haven't been this happy with a car since I had an '83 Grand Prix that would give anyone whiplash with a good punch o' the pedal. It's awesome, what's the prob?

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My mechanic has checked out my '99 Monte Carlo at least a half dozen times to get the "Service Engine Soon" light to go off...he did an almost total "re-do" on it, the thing is almost brand new minus a paint job. Got a solution? I can find how to reset my key-bob online, but not how to get that light to go off.

Trust me, the engine needs nothing. I haven't been this happy with a car since I had an '83 Grand Prix that would give anyone whiplash with a good punch o' the pedal. It's awesome, what's the prob?

 

Would need to know what trouble code it is registering to even guess, it usually isn't hard to find the problem with a scantool

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Would need to know what trouble code it is registering to even guess, it usually isn't hard to find the problem with a scantool

It has an "evap" code.????

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It has an "evap" code.????

0440 is usually a small vacuum leak in the vapor recovery hose/system (which can be hard to find w/o a smoke machine)

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0440 is usually a small vacuum leak in the vapor recovery hose/system (which can be hard to find w/o a smoke machine)

thanks dude! I just told hubby, he had an "a-hah" moment...much appreciated!!!!!!!!!!

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0440 is usually a small vacuum leak in the vapor recovery hose/system (which can be hard to find w/o a smoke machine)

Evap system leaks can be very difficult.

Good luck.

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Evap system leaks can be very difficult.

Good luck.

I have said luck...hubby's biz for 30 years is industrial rubber...hoses & fittings are a specialty here. But hoses are normally tested with air or soapy water, twa's recommendation of the smoke machine was a good one, hubby said...(and he was pissed that he didn't think of it, but again, not normal for what he does with the industry, it's usually got some sort of flammable fluid involved).

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I have said luck...hubby's biz for 30 years is industrial rubber...hoses & fittings are a specialty here. But hoses are normally tested with air or soapy water, twa's recommendation of the smoke machine was a good one, hubby said...(and he was pissed that he didn't think of it, but again, not normal for what he does with the industry, it's usually got some sort of flammable fluid involved).

The evap system is gasoline fumes....the smoke machines mechanics use are are designed specifically for extremely flammable systems

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/223962/

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The evap system is gasoline fumes....the smoke machines mechanics use are are designed specifically for extremely flammable systems

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/223962/

thanks again, like I said, his "a-ha" was of the "banging of the head/I should've known that" variety, wish I had the video, lol...he stomped around the house laughing at himself for half an hour

a priceless memory for me... ;)

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It has an "evap" code.????

Could be the vent valve. I've worked the parts counter in a Chevrolet dealer for 6 years now and they're constantly going out. It's rarely the canister itself but you never know....

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I had the same problem on my 97 Olds Bravada.  My mechanic checked the gas cap.  Sure enough, there were cracks in the O ring.  Bought a new gas cap, fixed problem!

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Is it safe safe to paint my mufflers?

 

Had to get my OEM mufflers on my 06 mazda replaced after i got rear ended two years ago. The bottoms of the OEM mufflers were flush with the bottom of the car but the afermarket ones they replaced them with are visable and some surface rust is starting to show. Wondering if the heat rated spray paint would also insulate the muffler and make it retain heat and maybe cause some damage.

 

Just trying to get that original flat gray look back, nothing special.

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Is it safe safe to paint my mufflers?

 

 

 

as long as ya let them dry well, any insulation impact is minimal and not near as hot as a catyliic converter

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as long as ya let them dry well, any insulation impact is minimal and not near as hot as a catyliic converter

Thanks twa

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2006 Honda Odyssey, 127K miles running fine when I took it out to the store today.

 

On the way back, make a 90° turn and here a whirring sound coming from the front of the car. Seems to happen when I accelerate from zero (or some other low speed). I can feel some vibration. The sound gets louder the more gas I put but mellows out once I get into second gear. 

 

Anyway to diagnose if it's power steering or transmission or something else? 

Edited by Elessar78

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Power steering usually makes noise when you turn the wheel and it will also change tone with RPM change.

Thanks. I checked the PS reservoir and the level is at "Lower Level" (like right on the line) and the fluid is looking black. Will I hurt it by driving it to the garage tomorrow morning? About 5 miles away. 

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Thanks. I checked the PS reservoir and the level is at "Lower Level" (like right on the line) and the fluid is looking black. Will I hurt it by driving it to the garage tomorrow morning? About 5 miles away.

Probably not.

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Probably not.

Wouldn't you know it, the problem wasn't there this morning when I drove it to the garage. I hope they can reproduce the sound. 

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