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The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread


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Any help/suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks...

try pulling the pvc valve and plugging it

another trick is to place a hollow tube on parts to isolate where noises originate

(put it to your ear)

PB if you have a test light, check for power at the fan motor

Edited by twa
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Oh, I forgot to say that when I take the PCV valve off the noise stops. Can you elaborate what you mean by plugging the pcv valve?

put you finger on it, but it sounds like it is bad

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:ols: sorry

Probably a restriction in the pvc valve, if replacing that doesn't stop it it is the hose or throttle plate

I sprayed some throttle spray in there. I am guessing it might be one of the hoses too.

One last thing, I think lol, but when I first cut it on, there is no noise. After I drive it for maybe 15-20 minutes, the sound comes on. It's the craziest, most annoying, thing I ever had go wrong with a car.

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if replacing the pvc doesn't stop it ya can lightly spray carb cleaner or starting fluid while it is whistling to find a leak(rpm will change)

but it is flamable

Thanks man. I might try that. I don't know what the heck this is, but I just got a feeling that it's not as big of a deal as it seems.

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I've had so many people tell me, including "professional" mechanics, that they've checked the fuse and it's good only to find a blown fuse that no matter what someone tells me I always check it myself. Are you 100% sure the fuse isn't blown? How did you check it? Otherwise, the series resistor for the blower motor could be the culprit, have you tried all fan speeds? Many cars send direct power to the motor on highest speed bypassing the resistor so when the resistor fails you'll only have the highest speed. Also could be the switch itself or the motor itself. Impossible to say exactly but I doubt it would be a 4 figure repair.....unless it's one of those electronic/automatic climate control systems and the control module ate it.

The mechanic doing the inspection checked it.....whose shop also does repairs. :rolleyes:

I'll check it myself. It is one of those automatic climate control systems. None of the speeds work.

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So I found out why the car was smoking so badly. Blown head gasket. It's my mom's car but she has no use for it. It's a 2003 Mitsubishi Galant with around 125k miles on it. Mechanic told me it would be around 2k to fix it. My mom is cancelling the insurance on the car and told me to go ahead and sell it. How should I go about selling this and how much should I try and sell it for? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

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So I found out why the car was smoking so badly. Blown head gasket. It's my mom's car but she has no use for it. It's a 2003 Mitsubishi Galant with around 125k miles on it. Mechanic told me it would be around 2k to fix it. My mom is cancelling the insurance on the car and told me to go ahead and sell it. How should I go about selling this and how much should I try and sell it for? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Look on KBB to see the value of your car. Put car on CL, and a couple of different sites. Have a bill of sale ready. Thats about it!

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Perhaps a brake/rotor issue.

I would take a look at the brakes first.

Last time I had something like that was because I needed new brake pads, nothing serious, easy to change (if you have the tools), took me about 5 minutes at the store and about 40 minutes doing the work.

However, there are plenty of guys more qualified than me to get a better opinion.

Good luck with it.

Had a mechanically inclined friend take a look. It turned out a spring that holds the E-brake inside the rotor had corroded. That was causing the squawking. When he pulled out the rotor the spring just fell out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I was changing the tire on my wife's car last night. It ran flat and turned out to have a large screw or nail lodged in it.

I noticed that all of the lugs seemed pretty tight and I couldn’t get them to budge using my arms. I had to kick the lug wrench to jar them loose a little first, for each of them. Worked fine for the first 4. Got to the 5th and it was being particularly difficult. Probably kicked it 7 or 8 times before it finally gave. When it did though, the lug nut fell right out with the wheel stud still inside. It had sheered right off.

So my questions are..

1. Did I do anything wrong by kicking it? I really don’t think I could have gotten any off by hand, and certainly not the one that ended up breaking.

2. This seems like a pretty clear case of the lugs being severely over-tightened, right?

I’m taking the tire to get it patched this afternoon at the dealership I bought the car from, and I plan on asking them to repair/replace the wheel stud as well (for free) since they did my last oil change/tire rotation. Am I out of line asking that?

Also, is it weird for that to happen? It’s a 2011 Impreza with right around 40k miles, not exactly old (though just out of warranty). And that was a pretty decent sized piece of metal that broke right off under what I felt wasn’t THAT much pressure.

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Not much choice but to break it, and yes I would try to get them to fix it

if the lugs were over tightened it can damage them

shouldn't be a expensive fix anyway if it is just one

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So I bought some motor oil a little while ago from walmart (castrol I believe) and I look in my trunk the other day and find that the entire contents of the container (5 quarts I think) leaked out all into my trunk carpet...Which is infuriating cause I never even opened the container... I've taken the carpet out, but found that the cardboard is attached to the trunk carpet, with linoleum lining both underneath... The oil has soaked completely through it...I've washed it with hot water and dawn soap...it got some oil out...but I can just tell there is a lot more embedded into it...Anyone have any thoughts on how to go about cleaning it? I'm already assuming the carpet will be stained as all hell but as long as I can clean it and use it I'm not so worried.

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dawn brushed on with a little water to soak and then pressure wash it at carwash(you can just use the engine cleaner setting 1st)

set the fiber board against a wall so the water will not damage it much

other than that,a spraycan of Gunk is a option

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I just had to replace my tires prematurely, as they had worn weird... but the wheels were not severely out of alignment. Now, today i have had to relace aspects of all for of the break prematurely (just teh pads up ront, i believe, but and the rear breaks had some additional damage -- $1,300 estimate overall)

is this related? is it possible that the car overall is "unaligned"? (bent frame, or something, that doesn't shoow up in a normal alignment?)

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brake jobs are the most profitable for shops. They LOVE brake jobs. Shop it around, or seriously, look into doing it yourself. the internet is an amazing place for directions and such.

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I just had to replace my tires prematurely, as they had worn weird... but the wheels were not severely out of alignment. Now, today i have had to relace aspects of all for of the break prematurely (just teh pads up ront, i believe, but and the rear breaks had some additional damage -- $1,300 estimate overall)

is this related? is it possible that the car overall is "unaligned"? (bent frame, or something, that doesn't shoow up in a normal alignment?)

What kind of car first of all and what are you considering premature wear for tires and brakes?

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  • 1 month later...

brake jobs are the most profitable for shops. They LOVE brake jobs. Shop it around, or seriously, look into doing it yourself. the internet is an amazing place for directions and such.

So I took my 2002 Ford Explorer to the dealer yesterday.  He told me that I needed my rear brake pads, calipers, and rotors replaced (Est. $699.00) and my front right wheel bearing assembly ($525.00).  Any thoughts on whether this is reasonable from anyone out there?

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brake jobs are the most profitable for shops. They LOVE brake jobs. Shop it around, or seriously, look into doing it yourself. the internet is an amazing place for directions and such.

So I took my 2002 Ford Explorer to the dealer yesterday.  He told me that I needed my rear brake pads, calipers, and rotors replaced (Est. $699.00) and my front right wheel bearing assembly ($525.00).  Any thoughts on whether this is reasonable from anyone out there?

 

First off, I would heed Zoony's advice. Shop around.

 

If you are a female, find a male friend to take your car to another shop. I don't mean to sound sexist, but these places WILL take advantage of females. I have a friend who took her car (2005 Lexus SUV) to Midas (might have been some other place). They told her she needed all 4 rotors, calipers & brake pads replaced to the tune of $1300. She's in her late 50's and single. She called and told her boyfriend (an ex-mechanic who knows a lot about cars) what they wanted to do. He told her to get out of there ASAP. When she told Midas, they told her she was driving an unsafe vehicle and needed to sign a waiver that she wouldn't hold them liable if something happened. Seriously. Tried to scare her into paying for the work. She left and had someone just replace the pads. Let's just say the boyfriend got it straightened out at Midas the next day.

 

When was the last time the brake pads were replaced, where did you take it & how much were you charged? Rarely do calipers & rotors need to be replaced. Ask if your rotors are scored. Ask why the calipers & rotors need to be replaced.

 

I can't speak to the wheel bearing assembly. But it sounds pretty high. I thought they just repacked the bearings on those, but I'm not a mechanic. I would check the web for similar costs/ problems with you car.

Edited by GoSkins0721
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the bearing now is usually sold in a sealed hub assembly unit

 

I would definitely shop around, especially to a independent shop, but that is not a excessive price at a dealer IF all that needs replaced

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