The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread

[twa]

Are you running synthetic oil as recommended?

 

w/o smoking or visible leaks I lean towards they didn't top off the oil, always best to check behind them.

 

[Elessar78]

I use synthetic blend that is Mazda specified, because now I only do oil changes at the dealer. 

[skinsmarydu]

I check my oil every time I fill up. 

There's a full service station on my way home where I've known everyone working there for decades. I pull in near the air pump with a $5 bill (or a pizza from work, my bosslady knows & loves them too) hanging out the window, somebody checks my tires. ?

[LadySkinsFan]

My battery keeps dying and I just got it in June. I unplugged my brake controller because I am not towing my camper right now, have turned off all lights inside etc. 

 

What might be going on with it?

[twa]

57 minutes ago, LadySkinsFan said:

My battery keeps dying and I just got it in June. I unplugged my brake controller because I am not towing my camper right now, have turned off all lights inside etc. 

 

What might be going on with it?

 

what kind of car/truck?

common problem is a light in the glovebox or under the hood goes bad/stays on

 

you can try disconnecting the cable to the battery and see if it still dies, or have it tested for free at many parts stores.

if it doesn't die disconnected I can offer suggestions to isolate where the problem is

[LadySkinsFan]

I have a '98 Chevy Tahoe. Interstate battery, 5 years. I had it recharged about 3weeks ago at an Interstate battery place. I will probably have to take it there again and leave it overnight. Lucky I know right where to take it. 

 

Once I get it back, I will try some of your suggestions, twa. 

[Springfield]

Yeah, twa is right.  Possible parasitic draw, which means anything that could possibly stay powered on after the car is off, when it’s not supposed to.

 

Easiest way to diagnose it is to test the battery for an excessive draw.  If it has one, start pulling fuses until the draw goes away.  Then you can trace the circuit that the fuse protects and find out the source.  Sometimes it’s a huge pain in the ass.

[twa]

13 minutes ago, Springfield said:

 Sometimes it’s a huge pain in the ass.

 

especially intermittent ones.

 

you ever do the Rich test?

https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/in-the-bay/diagnostic-repair-info/article/11080411/nail-intermittent-battery-failures

 

 

 

the heat here hard on batteries.

[LadySkinsFan]

Yes, I too think it's a parasitic draw. I just have to figure it out. That's why I unplugged my brake controller. 

 

If I don't drive it for 3 or 4 days, it dies.

[Springfield]

7 minutes ago, twa said:

 

especially intermittent ones.

 

you ever do the Rich test?

https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/in-the-bay/diagnostic-repair-info/article/11080411/nail-intermittent-battery-failures

 

 

 

the heat here hard on batteries.

 

Never done the Rich test per se.  We have testers though that I’m nearly certain recreate that type of scenario.

[twa]

3 minutes ago, LadySkinsFan said:

 

 

If I don't drive it for 3 or 4 days, it dies.

 

that long is a light draw, try unplugging the light under hood and in glove box

I've seen many of that model the glovebox switch goes bad

 

 

[twa]

5 minutes ago, Springfield said:

 

Never done the Rich test per se.  We have testers though that I’m nearly certain recreate that type of scenario.

 

I have a multimeter and a test light ......and some high priced Snap On tester that irritates me more than it works.

[LadySkinsFan]

1 hour ago, twa said:

 

that long is a light draw, try unplugging the light under hood and in glove box

I've seen many of that model the glovebox switch goes bad

 

 

 

I will definitely try those two when I get it recharged. Good thing with Interstate, they will test/charge for free.

[Jumbo]

i don't follow the thread so I'll have to ask for data: do any of you guys have a guess as to how many posters whose profession is in a scientific field and have been posting in the thread regularly arguing with the mechanics on how to fix cars?

 

 

 

[Springfield]

For a while it’s basically people asking questions, twa responding and then me confirming what he’s posted.

 

But scientists are fun.  They know a lot about the theory of how cars work.

[twa]

good thing I ain't a mechanic ,I might feel oppressed by that post. 

 

 

[Springfield]

The best is when we get a person in the shop who “used to be a master technician”, or “is a mechanic” or “studied automotive engineering”.  They usually talk a big game but, two things... once you start getting detailed about what’s going on, you find that they are waaaay out of their depth and... why don’t they work on that **** themselves then.

 

The supposed experts are always the ones who think what we (automotive repair shops) charge to work on their cars is too much.

 

Scientists are funny.

[mark327]

On 5/25/2018 at 9:49 PM, mark327 said:

@Springfield

#7 plug blew out,  had to have it retapped/ helicoiled. $196.00

#7 is the second plug from the front on the left side of the motor. Very easy to access. Just glad I was wrong and it wasn't #9 or 10 . 

I had already replaced all plugs and coils last fall. 

 

So, bringing this up again because since May 23 my Excursion has had 3 more plugs blow. One in July which was #4  $200. Then last weekend coming home from New Jersey #6 plug decided to blow out. Have that retapped/hellicoiled another $200.

So you would think, hey couldn't happen again especially since I just got the truck back yesterday right!

Nope I was wrong going again up to New Jersey and cross the Delaware memorial bridge 80 miles from home and POP!!  #8 blew. 

Now after the second one I did some research and it is not uncommon for the Triton motor because of the aluminum heads, but I think I am the only one that has had 4 plugs blow out in less then 6 months.  ?

Thoughts and suggestions welcomed 

.

[Kosher Ham]

On 9/19/2018 at 1:20 PM, Jumbo said:

i don't follow the thread so I'll have to ask for data: do any of you guys have a guess as to how many posters whose profession is in a scientific field and have been posting in the thread regularly arguing with the mechanics on how to fix cars?

 

Daggone it. No name calling. hahaha. 

 

I am far from an expert. I will call myself an amateur. 

I'm more in the realm of this...

 

 

[TheGreatBuzz]

On 9/19/2018 at 10:48 PM, Springfield said:

The best is when we get a person in the shop who “used to be a master technician”, or “is a mechanic” or “studied automotive engineering”.  They usually talk a big game but, two things... once you start getting detailed about what’s going on, you find that they are waaaay out of their depth and... why don’t they work on that **** themselves then.

 

The supposed experts are always the ones who think what we (automotive repair shops) charge to work on their cars is too much.

 

Scientists are funny.

Maybe I am the minority.  I have a decent idea what I am talking about but too lazy and financially comfortable enough to just have someone else do it.  

[twa]

51 minutes ago, mark327 said:

 

Thoughts and suggestions welcomed 

.

 

 Never buy a Ford.

[Springfield]

1 hour ago, TheGreatBuzz said:

Maybe I am the minority.  I have a decent idea what I am talking about but too lazy and financially comfortable enough to just have someone else do it.  

 

You know, I find that military guys generally fall into two categories.  1.  the penny pincher who questions every charge and 2. The older military vet who doesn’t care what it costs, just wants it fixed correctly.

[TheGreatBuzz]

9 hours ago, Springfield said:

 

You know, I find that military guys generally fall into two categories.  1.  the penny pincher who questions every charge and 2. The older military vet who doesn’t care what it costs, just wants it fixed correctly.

Yea.  You can probably determine which one they are by how many kids they have.  I dont have any kids and my wife more than me.  

[Malapropismic Depository]

I've got 2-fold issues, and I think they are connected.

First thing I noticed is some kind of vapor/mist/steam/fog (not sure which, but you get the idea) coming out of my AC vents, even when the AC isn't on. Soon I noticed it coming out of that vent-looking thing on the bottom outside of my windshield on the part immediately before the windshield. I looked up possible causes and many of them said it was probably condensation from some AC part. But like I said, it happened when my AC wasn't even on (it actually doesn't work), so I ruled that out. However the condensation part sounded right, because of the 2nd symptom that would follow.

 

Later I noticed that when I drove at night, when the temperature was cooler/colder, that my windshield and all of my windows fogged up, apparently with condensation, on the inside of the glass. It's so heavy and thick that I have almost zero visibility when driving at night, and can hardly see the road. I tried the heater and the defogger/defroster, and even though it works properly, it had almost zero effect on the windshield condensation. After running about 10 minutes ( on the hottest temperature setting, and highest power setting), it only cleared up a tiny circle at the bottom of the windshield.

 

So, as a last result, I carried around a rag or paper towels, to wipe the inside of the glass, when it happened. But the fog built up so fast, I literally had to wipe the glass once, every single minute, after it re-fogged. Not to mention that all of my other windows remained fogged, making it difficult or almost impossible to look around me and check for cars when changing lanes, or turning. It's too cold to open the windows while driving, which seems like the only other possible response I could find or think of.

Any answers ? And are the 2 issues related, since condensation seems to be a common denominator in the two ?

 

TIA !

Edited November 28, 2018 by Malapropismic Depository

[twa]

33 minutes ago, Malapropismic Depository said:

I've got 2-fold issues, and I think they are connected.

First thing I noticed is some kind of vapor/mist/steam/fog (not sure which, but you get the idea) coming out of my AC vents, even when the AC isn't on. Soon I noticed it coming out of that vent-looking thing on the bottom outside of my windshield on the part immediately before the windshield. I looked up possible causes and many of them said it was probably condensation from some AC part. But like I said, it happened when my AC wasn't even on (it actually doesn't work), so I ruled that out. However the condensation part sounded right, because of the 2nd symptom that would follow.

 

Later I noticed that when I drove at night, when the temperature was cooler/colder, that my windshield and all of my windows fogged up, apparently with condensation, on the inside of the glass. It's so heavy and thick that I have almost zero visibility when driving at night, and can hardly see the road. I tried the heater and the defogger/defroster, and even though it works properly, it had almost zero effect on the windshield condensation. After running about 10 minutes ( on the hottest temperature setting, and highest power setting), it only cleared up a tiny circle at the bottom of the windshield.

 

So, as a last result, I carried around a rag or paper towels, to wipe the inside of the glass, when it happened. But the fog built up so fast, I literally had to wipe the glass once, every single minute, after it re-fogged. Not to mention that all of my other windows remained fogged, making it difficult or almost impossible to look around me and check for cars when changing lanes, or turning. It's too cold to open the windows while driving, which seems like the only other possible response I could find or think of.

Any answers ? And are the 2 issues related, since condensation seems to be a common denominator in the two ?

 

TIA !

 

are you losing coolant in the radiator?

could be a leaking heater core.

 

other than that check the drain for the evaporator case(which is a pain)