Springfield

The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread

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hey guys,

I'm trying to replace my Power Steering Return Hose.

I'm about to disconnect the old one, but there's no clamps on it, and the new one didn't come with any clamps. The current rubber hose just mushrooms at the end, wrapped around a metal pipe. It does this at each end. I assume the easiest way to disconnect it, is to grab it tight with pliers and yank it off. But my question is, after I slip on the new hose, how do I make it airtight, and leak-proof at the connection ? It's almost as if the old hose is glued or heat-dried onto the metal pipe it connects to. So if there's no clamps on it, what's keeping it on there ?

The new hose looks like this - nothing but straight rubber hose.

ep71350.jpg

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Never seen one w/o a clamp of some sort

Cut it off,what's the worse that could happen?

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I'm out to attempt to find the culprit and replace a hose if possible...pray...wish me luck.:silly:

so without even doing the test part- I'm pretty sure I know which hose- its about 1- 1 1/2 inch diameter S shaped right along the top- I looked around and can get it for about $15 or so...

but running it now just to make sure.

Edited by ljs

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I'm out to attempt to find the culprit and replace a hose if possible...pray...wish me luck.:silly:

so without even doing the test part- I'm pretty sure I know which hose- its about 1- 1 1/2 inch diameter S shaped right along the top- I looked around and can get it for about $15 or so...

but running it now just to make sure.

That's usually the one

ya might wanna pick up a couple hose clamps while your at it,if it's got the factory ones they are a pain.

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Last night I heard, for lack of a better description, a "wokka wokka wokka" sound when turning left. I didn't see any muppets around - so I ruled that out. Also, it sounded like my front brakes were grinding when I came to a stop. Could the sound be related to the brakes?

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Last night I heard, for lack of a better description, a "wokka wokka wokka" sound when turning left. I didn't see any muppets around - so I ruled that out. Also, it sounded like my front brakes were grinding when I came to a stop. Could the sound be related to the brakes?

Grinding is bad,squealing maybe not....definitely needs checked asap

Wokka? don't know

If it is front wheel drive the cv joints will make a clicking/clatter when turned hard one way ..if bad

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hey guys,

I'm trying to replace my Power Steering Return Hose.

I'm about to disconnect the old one, but there's no clamps on it, and the new one didn't come with any clamps. The current rubber hose just mushrooms at the end, wrapped around a metal pipe. It does this at each end. I assume the easiest way to disconnect it, is to grab it tight with pliers and yank it off. But my question is, after I slip on the new hose, how do I make it airtight, and leak-proof at the connection ? It's almost as if the old hose is glued or heat-dried onto the metal pipe it connects to. So if there's no clamps on it, what's keeping it on there ?

The new hose looks like this - nothing but straight rubber hose.

ep71350.jpg

You will have to put regular style hose clamps on there and I would put 2 on each end of the hose, just to be safe but should be Ok the return side has low pressure on it.

I also thumbed back I see you have a olds van those puppys are famous for the steering rack and pinion leaking.

Edited by skinpride1

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Grinding is bad,squealing maybe not....definitely needs checked asap

Wokka? don't know

If it is front wheel drive the cv joints will make a clicking/clatter when turned hard one way ..if bad

Thanks - the car is benched this week until Friday when I can get it into somewhere to be looked at.

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My beater broke down today 5 feet in front of my parking spot at work. It's a 92 Toyota Corolla with 170k miles on it. I baby this car. When I say baby I mean I don't even push the gash pedal down enough to make the car downshift going up a steep incline. I'm the guy who is stuck doing 20mph up a steep hill with 40+ cars behind me. I pulled into my spot and the car was shaking very violently the second I put it in park. Brought a mechanic out and we both concluded the car was missing badly. Replaced the spark plugs and still no go. We can conclude the engine is on 2 cylinders right now. The engine is a non interference engine so we did some tests. Revving to 2k rpms makes a violent metal on metal clash. After putting ears really close to the engine we have concluded the clashing metal is coming from the timing belt/tensioner. However, I heard an engine that threw a rod and it sounds very similar. Is it safe to say the Timing Belt Tensioner just busted and threw timing off causing the car to only be operating on 2 cyclinders? Thanks.

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My beater broke down today 5 feet in front of my parking spot at work. It's a 92 Toyota Corolla with 170k miles on it. I baby this car. When I say baby I mean I don't even push the gash pedal down enough to make the car downshift going up a steep incline. I'm the guy who is stuck doing 20mph up a steep hill with 40+ cars behind me. I pulled into my spot and the car was shaking very violently the second I put it in park. Brought a mechanic out and we both concluded the car was missing badly. Replaced the spark plugs and still no go. We can conclude the engine is on 2 cylinders right now. The engine is a non interference engine so we did some tests. Revving to 2k rpms makes a violent metal on metal clash. After putting ears really close to the engine we have concluded the clashing metal is coming from the timing belt/tensioner. However, I heard an engine that threw a rod and it sounds very similar. Is it safe to say the Timing Belt Tensioner just busted and threw timing off causing the car to only be operating on 2 cyclinders? Thanks.

Well, unfortunately there's really only one way to be sure. Pull the timing cover off, check everything out. It's a huge pain in the ass and may be work done for nothing.

Very possible that the tensioner or something under the timing cover went bad and the belt skipped a tooth or two on the cam or crank gear. I would have to say that the metallic noise isn't good especially if you've heard a car with a bad rod before. Like I said though, the only way to find out is to pull the timing cover and check stuff out.

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Well, unfortunately there's really only one way to be sure. Pull the timing cover off, check everything out. It's a huge pain in the ass and may be work done for nothing.

Very possible that the tensioner or something under the timing cover went bad and the belt skipped a tooth or two on the cam or crank gear. I would have to say that the metallic noise isn't good especially if you've heard a car with a bad rod before. Like I said though, the only way to find out is to pull the timing cover and check stuff out.

Wish me luck, I will let you know today when the timing cover is pulled. While it sounds like a thrown rod, it also sounds exactly like the timing belt tensioner letting loose. The noise does not change when a plug wire is removed from the valve cover either which I was told is a great sign. ***Cross Fingers***

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Need some help. It turned out I blew a connecting rod on the #3 cyclinder on a 92 toyora corolla. Got a new engine with 89k miles. Took off the valve cover and the baby looks like a beauty compared to the old. Engine is getting compression fine and seems to be golden, however the car has no power. Replaced the radiator cause it was corroded, new spark plugs, new main crank seal, new waterpump, new timing belt, new accessory belts, new valve cover gasket, camshaft seal, and distributor cap. It starts up alittle teary eyed but runs, you can rev it up with the throttle cable no problem but its very hesistant. When put in drive, reverse, it stalls. Like I said as well when you get it going, there is no power only 10mph. Any thoughts mechanics?

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I'm sure this one has been asked before. The transmission on my wife's 02 Jetta is starting to get a little jerky. As in, when she accelerates it feels like it's struggles a little and then finally jumps into gear and you can feel the car lurch forward a bit.

It's worse going from 1st to 2nd than any other change but there is still a noticeable jerk in the others. She is now terrified to drive the car cuz she thinks she may get stranded.

Anything I can do? Are my wife's fear legit?

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I'm sure this one has been asked before. The transmission on my wife's 02 Jetta is starting to get a little jerky. As in, when she accelerates it feels like it's struggles a little and then finally jumps into gear and you can feel the car lurch forward a bit.

It's worse going from 1st to 2nd than any other change but there is still a noticeable jerk in the others. She is now terrified to drive the car cuz she thinks she may get stranded.

Anything I can do? Are my wife's fear legit?

Yes, her concerns are legit. VW automatics plow about as bad as ford and hondas do.

The reason its the worst between 1rst and 2nd, is because those are the most used gears.

You are going to need a new Trans. I forget the name if the juice, but there is an additive you can add to the trans, but around here, only mechanics are allowed to sell it. It was made for fords I think.:ols:

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Need some help. It turned out I blew a connecting rod on the #3 cyclinder on a 92 toyora corolla. Got a new engine with 89k miles. Took off the valve cover and the baby looks like a beauty compared to the old. Engine is getting compression fine and seems to be golden, however the car has no power. Replaced the radiator cause it was corroded, new spark plugs, new main crank seal, new waterpump, new timing belt, new accessory belts, new valve cover gasket, camshaft seal, and distributor cap. It starts up alittle teary eyed but runs, you can rev it up with the throttle cable no problem but its very hesistant. When put in drive, reverse, it stalls. Like I said as well when you get it going, there is no power only 10mph. Any thoughts mechanics?

Check the distributor cap, to make sure it's set right and check the timing also.

Also, push the schrattor (sp) valve on the fuel rail and make sure your fuel pressure is good.

Have you checked to make sure the spark is strong?

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kubstix

Have you checked the timing?

Recheck the spark plugs wires are not crossed?

BALLz.. not much on VW's,but are you sure it is the transmission and not the engine hesitating under a load?

Try putting it in gear and rev it up while holding the brake(with nothing in front of you;)) and see if it stumbles/misfires

I've seen bad plug wires give similar symptoms

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Check the distributor cap, to make sure it's set right and check the timing also.

Also, push the schrattor (sp) valve on the fuel rail and make sure your fuel pressure is good.

Have you checked to make sure the spark is strong?

We will be going more in depth on Monday.....We checked timing again to make sure all the notches matched up and everything is matched the way it should be. We even checked cylinder #1 to make sure it was fully raised to check timing pure shopkey and the timing matches perfectly when the #1 cylinder is at top. Like I said we will dig more Monday, but my main concern is the engine. Does this sound like an engine problem to you guys or possibly a spark/distributor/wires/fuel issue? We unbolted the exhaust from the manifold to make sure it wasnt a clogged CAT and it still ran bad so exhaust is ruled out. Spark plug wires are properly inserted by checking the length. I was thinking it could possibly be a blocked injectors or carb? I guess thats why I'm asking the mechanics. Thanks.

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kubstix

Perhaps a bad plug or coil pack

Throttle body sensor or mass air sensor?

Doubt it is the engine itself,sounds more timing/electrical

Check fire at each plug,or better yet pull the plugs and check fire there

wouldn't be the first bad new part.

Edited by twa

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TWA, Koolblue...........Thank you for the replies. I will have a lots of things to check on Monday but the good news is you guys telling me it's not the engine. And like both of you said, I have the old engine still and the old parts from it so swaps can be made. I will keep you updated, Thanks again guys.

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kubstix, I'm assuming you have the carby version of the engine, so swap the carb for the one on the old engine.

If the engine revs in neutral, but no power under load, that, to me, indicates no fuel from the power side of the carby. It may be something as simple as a blocked jet (tends to happen if engines sit for some time), so swap the carbs and see what happens.

Edited by SkinnedAussie

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kubstix, I'm assuming you have the carby version of the engine, so swap the carb for the one on the old engine.

Could be... been a long time since I've seen a carb on a toyo here , I assumed FI.

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