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The "Ask a Mechanic" Thread

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Skin'Em...

Is this a "factory" head unit from a Tiburon in your Accent? Does the faceplate remove completely for security purposes? Did you have to do any rewiring when you installed the Tiburon head unit or was it plug and play?

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Skin'Em...

Is this a "factory" head unit from a Tiburon in your Accent? Does the faceplate remove completely for security purposes? Did you have to do any rewiring when you installed the Tiburon head unit or was it plug and play?

  • Factory head unit
  • Faceplate does remove, in fact, its sitting on my xbox right now (used it to see if I could find more info about it)
  • Installed by dealer, have no clue about the wiring.
  • By the way, it has been doing this for a while, I'm just finally getting tired of it, dunno if that's pertinent information or not.

Edited by Skin'Em84

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  • Factory head unit
  • Faceplate does remove' date=' in fact, its sitting on my xbox right now (used it to see if I could find more info about it)
    [*']Installed by dealer, have no clue about the wiring.
  • By the way, it has been doing this for a while, I'm just finally getting tired of it, dunno if that's pertinent information or not.

I know that there was a long line of detachable face plate problems in Sony head units. I've owned several Sony aftermarket head units in my life and have experienced that problem first hand.

Does the music continue playing when the head unit blacks out? If so, I'd suspect a problem with the connection between the unit and the face. If you jiggle around the face and it starts working again, I'd be sure of it.

Does the music stop laying when the unit blacks out? If so, I'd suspect a connection problem going into the unit on the back.

If it exhibits both or a mix of those problems, it may be the unit itself.

If you suspect the face to be at fault, you may be able to source a face from a local junk yard. Tiburons are rather rare though, so good luck finding one. One other note... sometimes the face is keyed to the unit, meaning you cannot pull one from one car and use it on another. As far as I'm aware, that's the way that the Sonys were.

Edited by SpringfieldSkins

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The music cuts off when it blacks out, continues when it just lights up (goes no text mode).

I'll go behind it tomorrow and see what's up.

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The music cuts off when it blacks out' date=' continues when it just lights up (goes no text mode).

I'll go behind it tomorrow and see what's up.[/quote']

Yeah, I'd try that. Yank on the wires, and yes I mean YANK. Make sure that they are all secure. Sounds like a power or ground wire is loose somewhere.

There is still the possibility that the head unit is bad internally. Good luck with that one if it is.

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To be honest ldysknzfn... It sounds like you need to replace the ignition wires. I'd buy some and throw them on. It's not hard to do and the wires are probably only $50 or so. One way to tell if the wires are bad. Spray them with a squirt bottle while the car isn't missing. If it starts to miss after you spray them, it's very likely the wires.

Cheap thing to try before you go taking it into a shop and paying for check out.

Ok..I'll look into that and I should definitely take care of the oil on the plugs issue also right? Isn't there a risk of fire from the oil and plugs? I'll talk to another guy that works on cars tomorrow at work. I've been out sick for 2 days..so I'll bend his ear and see what he says or perhaps he'll offer to take a look-see for me. I know this dude better..he put a clutch in my old 86 Escort back in the day. Thanks so much for all the responses...at least I have a starting point and I can walk it down from there. Good looking out guys..I'll let yall know the outcome...that is if I have enough money left to pay the cable company when this is all finished. :silly:

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Ok..I'll look into that and I should definitely take care of the oil on the plugs issue also right? Isn't there a risk of fire from the oil and plugs? I'll talk to another guy that works on cars tomorrow at work. I've been out sick for 2 days..so I'll bend his ear and see what he says or perhaps he'll offer to take a look-see for me. I know this dude better..he put a clutch in my old 86 Escort back in the day. Thanks so much for all the responses...at least I have a starting point and I can walk it down from there. Good looking out guys..I'll let yall know the outcome...that is if I have enough money left to pay the cable company when this is all finished. :silly:

I would worry about getting your running condition fixed before you worry about the oil leak. They oil leak could be the cause if the problem goes back to the wires but it's no fire hazard. I'd plug the wires in and see if that fixes it. If it does, have the wires fixed soon after.

I'd like to see how this turns out. Keep me (us) informed.

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I got a 02 Chevy Tracker and have changed both belts on it . But it still squeals when i turn on the a/c. Any one got a idea what the problem maybe and how much it maybe to replace the problem.

Edited by mississippi skinsfan

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I got a 02 Chevy Tracker and have changed both belts on it . But it still squeals when i turn on the a/c. Any one got a idea what the problem maybe and how much it maybe to replace the problem.

Sorry, I missed this...

Question for you:

Was it squealing before you changed the belt?

If it wasn't, it's highly likely that the AC belt isn't tight enough. If it was, you could have an AC compressor that is starting to lock up and the belt is squealing because it wants to move but the AC compressor doesn't.

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Ok..I'll look into that and I should definitely take care of the oil on the plugs issue also right? Isn't there a risk of fire from the oil and plugs? I'll talk to another guy that works on cars tomorrow at work. I've been out sick for 2 days..so I'll bend his ear and see what he says or perhaps he'll offer to take a look-see for me. I know this dude better..he put a clutch in my old 86 Escort back in the day. Thanks so much for all the responses...at least I have a starting point and I can walk it down from there. Good looking out guys..I'll let yall know the outcome...that is if I have enough money left to pay the cable company when this is all finished. :silly:

So what ever happened with your problem?

Always like to hear how my internet diagnosis goes. :)

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SpringfieldSkins and twa, forgot to post in here that I got my catalytic converter (the universal) put on my blazer and so far so good, no more 'service engine' light and it seems to run smoother too.

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SpringfieldSkins and twa, forgot to post in here that I got my catalytic converter (the universal) put on my blazer and so far so good, no more 'service engine' light and it seems to run smoother too.

Cool... good luck with it man. Hope all goes well with it.

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Just had a problem with my jeep. It was sputtering and I couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. Then I noticed a burning smell. I pulled over and opened my hood and saw a little smoke coming up. I look over at my coolant tank and I see the cap is open so everything had evaporated. I went and bought a gallon of water and poured it in there. I wasn't able to pull of the head gasket to run cold water through that. Will I be able to drive my car still? The car was running fine after I poured the water into the coolant tank but I just wanted to make sure running cold water through the head gasket wasn't exactly needed. Is it fine that I wasn't able to run it through the head gasket? I've seen mechanics do this before.

Edited by BayouBrave86

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Head gasket?...you mean radiator cap?

Adding cold water to a hot block is not good(can crack the block,or blow hot water back),but it usually does no damage.

check the level after it cools since if the thermostat wasn't open it may need more.

if you simply filled the overflow reservoir that is fine,but you need to check for leaks in the system.

Never open a hot radiator,but remove the cap once it cools and check the level

Edited by twa

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Just had a problem with my jeep. It was sputtering and I couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. Then I noticed a burning smell. I pulled over and opened my hood and saw a little smoke coming up. I look over at my coolant tank and I see the cap is open so everything had evaporated.

Not evaporated, but drawn into the radiator to try and make up for the lack of coolant.

I went and bought a gallon of water and poured it in there.

Not necessarily a good thing if your cooling system uses an anti-freeze type coolant.

I wasn't able to pull of the head gasket to run cold water through that.

Certainly not by the side of the road. You certainly wouldn't be driving home if you did. What, exactly, do YOU mean by head gasket? Obviously not the one between the head and the engine block.

Will I be able to drive my car still? The car was running fine after I poured the water into the coolant tank but I just wanted to make sure running cold water through the head gasket wasn't exactly needed. Is it fine that I wasn't able to run it through the head gasket? I've seen mechanics do this before.

How does one run cold water through the head gasket? I'm a mechanic and have no idea what you are talking about.

BTW, what was the temp gauge indicating, if anything, when you first noticed the burning smell?

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I'm waiting to read about the final diagnosis of the Tale of the Broken Timing Belt.

I just know that most of the time when a valve bends it's just the valve.

Next time, ask yourself this; What has the valve hit for it to become bent?

How do you check the associated piston crown to see if it isn't cracked? Do you physically check the bore to see if the piston hasn't 'twisted', and thus, scoring the bore, or worst still, cracking the bore? What about possible broken piston rings? A crushed big-end bearing, maybe?

If I was working on the car I'd tell the customer ahead of time we need to put the belt on and then see if there's been any damage. If it's not running right the head will need to be pulled. A vast majority of the time you'll wind up putting valves in it and that's that. I understand where you're coming from but I feel like replacing the engine for a bent valve without even inspecting anything internally is unnecessary when most of the time it's not going to come to that, but that's just me.

How do you justify to the customer the cost of inspecting all internals if all he/she wants is to replace a (one?) bent valve?

Sorry, but it's not worth the hassle in the future. Let some unscrupulous mechanic deal with it now, and he can also have the hassle later.

Edited by SkinnedAussie

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Not evaporated, but drawn into the radiator to try and make up for the lack of coolant.

Not necessarily a good thing if your cooling system uses an anti-freeze type coolant.

Certainly not by the side of the road. You certainly wouldn't be driving home if you did. What, exactly, do YOU mean by head gasket? Obviously not the one between the head and the engine block.

How does one run cold water through the head gasket? I'm a mechanic and have no idea what you are talking about.

BTW, what was the temp gauge indicating, if anything, when you first noticed the burning smell?

Yeah I meant the radiator cap. Didn't check the temp.

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Just had a problem with my jeep. It was sputtering and I couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. Then I noticed a burning smell. I pulled over and opened my hood and saw a little smoke coming up. I look over at my coolant tank and I see the cap is open so everything had evaporated. I went and bought a gallon of water and poured it in there. I wasn't able to pull of the head gasket to run cold water through that. Will I be able to drive my car still? The car was running fine after I poured the water into the coolant tank but I just wanted to make sure running cold water through the head gasket wasn't exactly needed. Is it fine that I wasn't able to run it through the head gasket? I've seen mechanics do this before.

This is not a good sign.

What you're saying is that your vehicle is misfiring and/or running rough. You implied that it may have been overheating. The vehicle may have been misfiring because it was overheating, it may be because you have some other, more serious problems.

Never use straight water in the cooling system unless you plan on replacing it soon after with a 50/50 mix of water and coolant/antifreeze. Water will boil or freeze and will cause you much more serious problems.

One thing I do know, is you must have a leak in your cooling system somewhere. Coolant does not evaporate (unless of course you are using straight water) so it had to have gone somewhere. The overflow is sealed from the rest of the cooling system which is pressurized by the radiator cap. If the cooling system builds up too much pressure, because your car is overheating, the radiator cap will open and allow coolant to flow into your coolant overflow.

The best way to accurately measure the coolant is through the radiator, when cold. The overflow may or may not be correct. Yes, if it is full, you will be able to drive your car again. It will probably happen again though if, like I suspect, you have a leak in your cooling system.

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Sorry, I missed this...

Question for you:

Was it squealing before you changed the belt?

If it wasn't, it's highly likely that the AC belt isn't tight enough. If it was, you could have an AC compressor that is starting to lock up and the belt is squealing because it wants to move but the AC compressor doesn't.

Yes it was squealing before replacing the belts. AC compressor seems to be what i have been reading about maybe the problem. Guess i will call around to find out prices on replacing it.

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Yes it was squealing before replacing the belts. AC compressor seems to be what i have been reading about maybe the problem. Guess i will call around to find out prices on replacing it.

Does it only make the noise when the AC compressor comes on?

(example: When you turn on the defrost and AC at any level)

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This is not a good sign.

What you're saying is that your vehicle is misfiring and/or running rough. You implied that it may have been overheating. The vehicle may have been misfiring because it was overheating, it may be because you have some other, more serious problems.

Never use straight water in the cooling system unless you plan on replacing it soon after with a 50/50 mix of water and coolant/antifreeze. Water will boil or freeze and will cause you much more serious problems.

One thing I do know, is you must have a leak in your cooling system somewhere. Coolant does not evaporate (unless of course you are using straight water) so it had to have gone somewhere. The overflow is sealed from the rest of the cooling system which is pressurized by the radiator cap. If the cooling system builds up too much pressure, because your car is overheating, the radiator cap will open and allow coolant to flow into your coolant overflow.

The best way to accurately measure the coolant is through the radiator, when cold. The overflow may or may not be correct. Yes, if it is full, you will be able to drive your car again. It will probably happen again though if, like I suspect, you have a leak in your cooling system.

I would also suggest the jeepster monitor his engine oil. If it starts to turn grey, the coolant leak is internal, and the head will have to come off, at a minimum.

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Does it only make the noise when the AC compressor comes on?

(example: When you turn on the defrost and AC at any level)

havent really used the defrost much down here but it also does it when i turn the a/c or the have the outside air on. Yes to all the A/C levels

Edited by mississippi skinsfan

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havent really used the defrost much down here but it also does it when i turn the a/c or the have the outside air on. Yes to all the A/C levels

OK...

If it only makes the noise when the AC compressor is on, there is one thing you can do that is very simple and will cost you nothing (because AC compressor replacement is going to cost you an arm and a leg).

You can disconnect the wiring harness to the AC compressor. There will be a connector with a tab or release of some sort. Disconnect that and your AC compressor won't try and engage and thus it won't make the noise.

The downside is, you will never have cold air coming out of your vents after you disconnect it.

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