PCS Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Eeek. Reminds me of some remodels I've done in the past. No fun. But I do sympathize. Our house was built in 1979. Now aside from obviously being street inspected ,this house has been worked on by diyer's and maybe a few......"handymen" ahem. After all that,only 1 permit was ever pulled for the place and that was for the roof,and that one expired. Read: Shortcuts were taken and didn't want the city to see. I've got a project list for this place that consumes a 3x2 dry erase board. Going to be a busy Winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LD0506 Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Ehhh, kinda fun, in a twisted sorta way. I've had to learn a LOT of stuff I'd never tried before, I've taught boyzilla a slew of swear words never before heard, and in the end, we get the benefit of it all. Five years in, all of it done without help, things starting to pay off, what's not to love? But sometimes I swear, this was the previous work crew, that guy in the x-ray with the spike through his head and the chicken that plays tic-tac-toe. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveakl Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 (edited) Starting my patio and barshed today. I'll try to post pics as I go. Patio is roughly 15 x 18 with a firepit and fridge/bar area. Shed will be at the end of it and will have bar, 4 stools, small love seat, tv, and of course the bar. So the patio/barshed has turned into a 400sqft deck with a 10x12 barshed build in the middle.We decided to spend the summer/fall using the yard as is and seeing what would benifit us the most. Starting after thanksgiving with digging the footing holes. Doors to shed will look like this: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.solarinnovations.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Vinyl-Folding-Glass-Wall.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.solarinnovations.com/vinyl-products/vinyl-bi-fold-door/&h=764&w=1000&tbnid=4ZzwvyFmI5QS0M:&docid=R7Mz1nFqNFYwWM&ei=wndTVrj8KcLbmwHK5ITADg&tbm=isch&client=ms-android-sprint-us&ved=0ahUKEwi45ZnxsafJAhXC7SYKHUoyAegQMwhRKBowGg Shed inside like this: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://sftimes.s3.amazonaws.com/3/5/e/a/35ea10fbb118320b47bbaf9fd6ca6a94.jpg&imgrefurl=http://sfglobe.com/2015/02/27/pub-sheds-are-a-growing-trend-worth-seeing/&h=495&w=660&tbnid=5hxOiJ9ttyKB2M:&docid=OBrMoHXStZU1_M&ei=_3dTVqTuB8LemAHt46zACQ&tbm=isch&client=ms-android-sprint-us&ved=0ahUKEwjk6YKOsqfJAhVCLyYKHe0xC5gQMwgmKAQwBA Edited November 23, 2015 by daveakl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elessar78 Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 I'm getting better and more comfortable with electrical work. Haven't tackled anything more complicated than light switches and light fixtures but it was something I was pretty afraid of probably a year ago. With that said I need help diagnosing an electrical(?) issue with my garage door. The wall switch doesn't work. The garage door via the clicker works fine. I tracked the wire to the wall switch and is intact for all I can tell. I took a volt meter to the two wires behind the wall switch and there is a current back there. Is there a way to check if a current is running the length of the wire at various points? Could I "hot wire" (touch the two ends together) the two wires connected to the back of the wall switch to see if it would activate the door? Could I do that without electrocuting myself? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LD0506 Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 Sure, no problem, that switch is low voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slateman Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Anyone ever heard of a company called Washington Cabinetry? They gave me a rather reasonable quote today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pointyfootball Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Hardwood (solid) flooring. So, I've laid hardwood in the past (2x) but am considering doing a critical area (entrance, dining room, large living room & hallway. Couple of questions if anyone has experience in the area: 1) Is tearing up old hardwood flooring hard? Seems to me it would be, especially 2.25". I have about a 1/3 of it already covered with hardwood flooring, but I want all of it to match. 2) How to tell difference between "good" and "bad" flooring? Only way I know is manufacturer, wood type and cost. Seems to me entry-level is about $4.50-$6.00/sqft and to get quality hardwood flooring, you're looking at ~$7-8/sqft. I did a room for charity and used Lowe's Bruce oak that they had in stock and it was garbage. Probably 10-15% waste. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoony Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Hardwood (solid) flooring. So, I've laid hardwood in the past (2x) but am considering doing a critical area (entrance, dining room, large living room & hallway. Couple of questions if anyone has experience in the area: 1) Is tearing up old hardwood flooring hard? Seems to me it would be, especially 2.25". I have about a 1/3 of it already covered with hardwood flooring, but I want all of it to match. 2) How to tell difference between "good" and "bad" flooring? Only way I know is manufacturer, wood type and cost. Seems to me entry-level is about $4.50-$6.00/sqft and to get quality hardwood flooring, you're looking at ~$7-8/sqft. I did a room for charity and used Lowe's Bruce oak that they had in stock and it was garbage. Probably 10-15% waste. 100% do not buy your flooring at a box store or lumber liquidators. This cannot be overstated Find a hardwood flooring supply in your area. thats where 100% of professionals buy. That should tell you something. Better price, better quality. And all of the knowledge you need Keep in mind though they cater to Pros. So if you wander in there with a million questions and the expectations of your way right away, you might piss them off. Just tell then you'd like their help and advice and run with it. Just remember at the end of the day they most likely sell about $30 million worth of flooring annually, so your one time (you are not a pro so you will not repeat) $4000 sale ultimately doesn't mean much. Just keep that in mind But expect to save about 50% and get the right materials and equipment if you plan to finish them yourself, or a higher grade of prefinished. They don't sell product that their customers (pros) will be tearing back up in 5 years Also, use staples not cleats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Harris Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 zoony's advice is always just spend more. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjfootballer Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Bought Laminate floors at lumber liquidators 10 years ago. My dad installed it. We take care of the floor. Still looks great after 10 years. No scratches, cracks or buckling. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark327 Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Question for you guys. Guy I know built a sunroom 11×13 on his deck like 15yrs ago. Ten yrs ago he decided to put 8×8 ceramic tile down so he put down 3/4 inch treated plywood over the decking boards before doing the tile work. Now I'm not sure if he used construction adhesive under the plywood when installed or how he screwed the plywood down along the edges or even staggered the plywood when laying it. Tiles are popping and cracking after 10 yrs. He says it is from over watering all his plant's. I say bad install job. Thoughts/ Opinions please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Harris Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Question for you guys. Guy I know built a sunroom 11×13 on his deck like 15yrs ago. Ten yrs ago he decided to put 8×8 ceramic tile down so he put down 3/4 inch treated plywood over the decking boards before doing the tile work. Now I'm not sure if he used construction adhesive under the plywood when installed or how he screwed the plywood down along the edges or even staggered the plywood when laying it. Tiles are popping and cracking after 10 yrs. He says it is from over watering all his plant's. I say bad install job. Thoughts/ Opinions please Did he use backer board? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoony Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Yah should have used hardi backer not plywood. Regardless excessive water is not a good thing either Is underneath sealed? Humidity can cause the wood to swell from underneath as well zoony's advice is always just spend more. Yah except not. Actually that's the complete opposite of my post. Thanks for reading it you insensitive asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Harris Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Yah should have used hardi backer not plywood. Regardless excessive water is not a good thing either Is underneath sealed? Humidity can cause the wood to swell from underneath as well He needs that 5k foam crawl space insulation i bet. Yah except not. Actually that's the complete opposite of my post. Thanks for reading it you insensitive asshole I love u zoony. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark327 Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Did not use backer board . 1/2" styrofoam insulation underneath deck. This time around the plan is to use 1/2" wonder board over the existing 3/4 plywood. Sealing the new tile . With less over watering of plants . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 there is some green liquid that is coming out of my ac unit outside? Do i need to check it out since its winter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoSkins0721 Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 there is some green liquid that is coming out of my ac unit outside? Do i need to check it out since its winter? I *think* this is the dye that is added to the refrigerant to identify leaks. It could be blown seals on the compressor or a failed compressor. Personally, I would get it checked out now & not wait until the Spring. I'm not an expert (my family has been in the HVAC business forever, so I've picked up bits & pieces over the years) - hopefully someone with more HVAC knowledge sees this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Harris Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 (edited) there is some green liquid that is coming out of my ac unit outside? Do i need to check it out since its winter? do you have a heat pump? if so, you definitely can't wait. it usually means means a refigerant leak or dirty condensate drain line. Edited January 6, 2016 by Major Harris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveakl Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 there is some green liquid that is coming out of my ac unit outside? Do i need to check it out since its winter? Clearly this is ectoplasm. It's a tricky situation only to be handled by professionals. So the question for you is......who ya gonna call? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 do you have a heat pump? if so, you definitely can't wait. it usually means means a refigerant leak or dirty condensate drain line. i do have a heat pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Harris Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 i do have a heat pump. Yeah don't wait. Hope for dirty condensate line, or refrigerant leak, in that order. Compressor can get pricy if not under warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 Yeah don't wait. Hope for dirty condensate line, or refrigerant leak, in that order. Compressor can get pricy if not under warranty. i have a home warranty with american home shield. i hope so. i just bought this house and the hvac was bought in 2011 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Harris Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 i have a home warranty with american home shield. i hope so. i just bought this house and the hvac was bought in 2011 if it's a compressor, which is worst case scenario, you should be covered for the part, at the very least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoony Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 if it's a compressor, which is worst case scenario, you should be covered for the part, at the very least. Labor can be more than the part for sure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinfan2k Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 if it's a compressor, which is worst case scenario, you should be covered for the part, at the very least. Labor can be more than the part for sure Guys AHS sent out a contractor and one of the coils are leaking. He is looking to see if thats under warranty but he said he is going to try to get me a brand new unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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