Veretax

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Posts posted by Veretax


  1. Sounds like they need air bled out or adjusted

    Or of course the master cylinder going out

    Do they feel spongy when pressure is applied

    I wouldn't describe it as a bleed.... The brakes do slow the car with the very light pressure. Just they don't really seem to hammer down unless I go to the floor. TH eold brakes were almost done so... i'm assuming its because they've not worn in yet.


  2. So with the old brakes the pedal would go to the floor? With the new brakes it's a lot more tight?

    If so, that is normal.

    No. The breaks slow the car as soon as you apply pressure, but they don't really do so quickly unless i push the pedal almost to the floor (this after the new pads were put on). Before I hardly had to use little if any additional pressure at all to get the brakes to do that.


  3. Well I got my car's oil changed, and new front brakes put on, and a question came up.

    Is it normal when you put new brakes on for the feel of the pedal to be a bit different? (Like I noticed the brakes would slow the car with little pressure, but if I needed to stop faster the pedal has to go to the floor) I assume some of that is normal given the pads were near their end of life expectancy.


  4. My impala did that to me one time. just cut out at a stop light and I didn't notice it till I went to pull out. Never did figure out what caused it though as I was never able to get the behavior to duplicate.

    (I wondered if it had something to do with the recalled ignition wires that got replaced a few weeks thereafter)


  5. It's all a piece of cake once you realize it's just nuts and bolts!

    ...and circuits and plastic and drills... :silly:

    Thanks, I figured it was worth trying to do myself if all it cost me was time, worse case scenario I could still take it to a mechanic. But having done this my confidence in working on my car has gone up, I may next try to change my own plugs which are probably about due. I think I need to get a special tool/socket to pull them out though.


  6. I don't normally like to double post, but wanted to tell you guys how it went.

    First we thought that trying some WD-40 was worth trying. It didn't work so much, and the locking mechanism remained locked up, so about 4 o clock my neighbor and I set out to see if we could fix this problem. So after about an hour taking off some of the cosmetic pieces of the dash, top and bottom, removing a support beneath the steering column, we finally got the ignition out.

    It took a little while to figure out how to get the lock out, and we thought before we started doing too much to go price the part, and make sure it was in stock, it was but I wanted to make sure it was a compettive price (was about $189 at advance for the part plus some grease I think it was to help keep it from corroding).

    So we came back and how do you get the old lock out? Well as the instructions said you have to drill out the spring that holds it in place, but finding that was more difficult. On my car the pin was almost out on the bottom T like section piece of the ignition. But the instructions were basically right other than that. you had to drill out that pin and then get the spring out and it slid right out.

    At that point we went to buy the part and got back to work. Getting it to reseat was tricky, but I took a look at the back part inside and realized that it was turned a particular way. Because the button would only stay down in the 'on' position, you have to use a screwdriver (std) to gently turn it to the right slot so it seats right. That worked, we tried to get the key out after we got it in, and that proved a problem, so we pulled the lock back out and looked at it, and decided well let's see if this switch works.

    (BTW before you put that sucker in I recommend removing the battery's ground from the battery, we did.) when we hooked the battery up, the lights came on the thing would turn, but it wouldn't start, and the dash lights didn't come on. It was then we realized the switching mechanism (4 brass or metal like pieces that have 2 big leavers one with 3 one with 2 nodes and two other pieces to help complete the circuits, had gotten bumped off so we had to figure out, like a jigsaw puzzle the right way. In hind sight next time I'd take a picture of that part so i could get it back together faster.

    Once that was done we started it up and it worked fine. We removed the battery again, remounted the ignition, put the dash components back on and it started fine. Lastly we had to restore the gearshifter to normal settings because the tow driver had loosened it up a bit (there's a clip that is necessary to hold it in place, and another part that was a little loose.)

    Then a 15 minute test drive, setting the clock to the bank's clock, and everything seems fine. My wife got the idea to paint nail polish on the old door keys so we could tell them a part, and while you could get the door tumblers rekeyed, I didn't see the point, having two keys is the way things used to be anyways.

    SO all in all we were out 189, and it only took about 4-5 hours to actually do the work on this job. It probably would have been faster if we had our tools out and ready to go ahead of time. (Drill bits, a ratchet with an extender, 10 mm I think it was?) things like that.

    Anyhow, It was worth doing, and I learned a lot about how my car was put together, but who would have thought this little piece of steel/aluminum that i can cup my hand around would be responsible for keeping it from starting, being stolen. Crazy eh? ;)


  7. you could try flushing the lock cylinder out with wd-40 and trying a spare key.

    I'm assuming you already tried wiggling the steering wheel back and forth??

    You likely will need a new key cylinder which is more than 10 bucks,but sometimes flushing it out works

    directions

    http://www.2carpros.com/forum/2000-chevy-impala-ignition-switch-issues-vt68221.html

    (the disconnecting the battery part is important since it has pass key security)

    perhaps call the dealer and see if there is a recall...springfield might know,it seems a common problem.

    WD-40 into the locking mechanism? that's an interesting thought. Yeah we tried moving the steering, it wasn't locked up and i could move it in either direction fairly far, didn't make a difference. Although We did try my wife's key while we were still stuck. The mechanism would seem to sense the key was there as the lights would change as they normally do internally, but it still would not turn.


  8. Okay here's one. I have a 2000 Chevy Impala ( with the 3.6 L V6 Engine).... We went to Princeton yesterday for shopping at several stores car worked fine. But when we got out of walmart, the ignition wouldn't turn with the key in it. (Like it literally was frozen in the 12 O'clock position). I had a guy from Walmart take a look and he said he thought it was a switch (maybe a ten dollar part he said at advance) and that they go bad all the time.

    We ended up having to get the thing towed because I couldn't get it fixed last night.

    Anyhow, any suggestions on how to attack this problem?


  9. I have a question. I took my car to a quicky lube the other day and now my check engine light is on. WTH?
    Did they put any oil back in it?:silly: (inside joke)

    I see a real mechanic in your future,but ya might try taking it back first.

    Have you filled up gas since then?...make sure the gas cap is tight.

    That's exactly what I'd do. Some places will add fuel injector cleaner to your gas tank after an oil change, but if the gas cap isn't securely on a sensor could detect it and manifest with a check engine light. Its happened to me a few times.


  10. They could... but there are several other things that come to mind before spark plugs. Ignition wires, ignition coils, idle air control valve, mass air flow sensor just to name a few.

    They recently recalled and replaced some of the ignition wiring in my Impala, but I'm not sure how much was replaced, but I believe this issue was going on a bit before then. (I did notice immediately after it that the engine seemed to run a bit smoother and quieter though).


  11. Could be a bad steel belt on a tire.

    Try driving 5-10 mph on a asphalt road and see if it feels worse.

    You feel it thru the steering wheel or the seat?..if the seat it is a rear tire

    I can feel it in the wheel when driving, and when sitting in the passengers seat the car has a wiggle to it almost.

    This can be very serious. Have your tires and wheel barrings checked. It's usually free or small charge. One of your tires could blow!

    You know, now that you mention it they did mention I might have a bearing starting to go bad at inspection. I had forgotten about it. However, I also know that my tires are about due for replacement. I was hoping to get past the winter months before I changed them as I also want to get the brake pads changed here in February. hrms... thanks for the advice. Fortunately I don't drive very far or much so the car sits most of the time, but I will see about getting it checked.


  12. Yes,and a cheap fix if that is it.

    I'm assuming shimmy means rough idle and hesitation.

    I don't think it feels like a rough idle or hesitation, in fact when sitting at a complete stop or in park I don't feel the kind of vibration. I didnt even notice this until I took a friend home a week ago and she said why is your car shimmying. I thought perhaps it was because of the cold weather and under inflated/under warmmed tires, but I've since had the tires all pressure checked and it still does it after that fact.


  13. Alright I have two issues.

    First is my mom's 2004 BMW 525. When accelerating, the RPMs move up and down very inconsistently. Overall, the car seems to accelerate fine, but the car is slightly jerky due to the quick and small changes in RPMs. It's acting like you're quickly pushing and letting off of the gas pedal, but in fact you're holding it steady. I've only driven it around town on very short trips so I'm not sure if it gets better as the car warms up. Perhaps a faulty or dirty mass air flow sensor?

    The next problem I'm having is with my 2003 Nissan Pathfinder. The brakes make a high pitched noise when slowing down at times, but I had it looked at shortly after I purchased the vehicle (I bought it this past November) and they said that it was temporary and would subside after driving it around a bit. Perhaps I need to get them cleaned? Sort of the same issue with the serpentine belts--they make a squeaking noise, especially on cold and/or rainy days. Is there some kind of spray I can use to fix this temporarily?

    I don't know about the First issue, but with your breaks issue, I would be curious how long the existing breaks have been on there. I know on my Impala for example it does squeal some times as dust will get on the rotors sometimes, but it also will squeal a bit after the pad has worn down. If you are not sure which is the case it can't hurt to have the tire taken off too look to see how it wears. I'm about ready to put a new front set on my car, and the mechanic there said you figure on a front wheel drive car with the weight being how it is that you'll go through two sets of pads normally over the rear, of course thats given the particular quality pads I'm running. If you are running a low lifespan version they could wear faster I'm sure. (granted I'm not a mechanic, but this is what I've been told)