Veretax

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Posts posted by Veretax


  1. you could try flushing the lock cylinder out with wd-40 and trying a spare key.

    I'm assuming you already tried wiggling the steering wheel back and forth??

    You likely will need a new key cylinder which is more than 10 bucks,but sometimes flushing it out works

    directions

    http://www.2carpros.com/forum/2000-chevy-impala-ignition-switch-issues-vt68221.html

    (the disconnecting the battery part is important since it has pass key security)

    perhaps call the dealer and see if there is a recall...springfield might know,it seems a common problem.

    WD-40 into the locking mechanism? that's an interesting thought. Yeah we tried moving the steering, it wasn't locked up and i could move it in either direction fairly far, didn't make a difference. Although We did try my wife's key while we were still stuck. The mechanism would seem to sense the key was there as the lights would change as they normally do internally, but it still would not turn.


  2. Okay here's one. I have a 2000 Chevy Impala ( with the 3.6 L V6 Engine).... We went to Princeton yesterday for shopping at several stores car worked fine. But when we got out of walmart, the ignition wouldn't turn with the key in it. (Like it literally was frozen in the 12 O'clock position). I had a guy from Walmart take a look and he said he thought it was a switch (maybe a ten dollar part he said at advance) and that they go bad all the time.

    We ended up having to get the thing towed because I couldn't get it fixed last night.

    Anyhow, any suggestions on how to attack this problem?


  3. I have a question. I took my car to a quicky lube the other day and now my check engine light is on. WTH?
    Did they put any oil back in it?:silly: (inside joke)

    I see a real mechanic in your future,but ya might try taking it back first.

    Have you filled up gas since then?...make sure the gas cap is tight.

    That's exactly what I'd do. Some places will add fuel injector cleaner to your gas tank after an oil change, but if the gas cap isn't securely on a sensor could detect it and manifest with a check engine light. Its happened to me a few times.


  4. They could... but there are several other things that come to mind before spark plugs. Ignition wires, ignition coils, idle air control valve, mass air flow sensor just to name a few.

    They recently recalled and replaced some of the ignition wiring in my Impala, but I'm not sure how much was replaced, but I believe this issue was going on a bit before then. (I did notice immediately after it that the engine seemed to run a bit smoother and quieter though).


  5. Could be a bad steel belt on a tire.

    Try driving 5-10 mph on a asphalt road and see if it feels worse.

    You feel it thru the steering wheel or the seat?..if the seat it is a rear tire

    I can feel it in the wheel when driving, and when sitting in the passengers seat the car has a wiggle to it almost.

    This can be very serious. Have your tires and wheel barrings checked. It's usually free or small charge. One of your tires could blow!

    You know, now that you mention it they did mention I might have a bearing starting to go bad at inspection. I had forgotten about it. However, I also know that my tires are about due for replacement. I was hoping to get past the winter months before I changed them as I also want to get the brake pads changed here in February. hrms... thanks for the advice. Fortunately I don't drive very far or much so the car sits most of the time, but I will see about getting it checked.


  6. Yes,and a cheap fix if that is it.

    I'm assuming shimmy means rough idle and hesitation.

    I don't think it feels like a rough idle or hesitation, in fact when sitting at a complete stop or in park I don't feel the kind of vibration. I didnt even notice this until I took a friend home a week ago and she said why is your car shimmying. I thought perhaps it was because of the cold weather and under inflated/under warmmed tires, but I've since had the tires all pressure checked and it still does it after that fact.


  7. Alright I have two issues.

    First is my mom's 2004 BMW 525. When accelerating, the RPMs move up and down very inconsistently. Overall, the car seems to accelerate fine, but the car is slightly jerky due to the quick and small changes in RPMs. It's acting like you're quickly pushing and letting off of the gas pedal, but in fact you're holding it steady. I've only driven it around town on very short trips so I'm not sure if it gets better as the car warms up. Perhaps a faulty or dirty mass air flow sensor?

    The next problem I'm having is with my 2003 Nissan Pathfinder. The brakes make a high pitched noise when slowing down at times, but I had it looked at shortly after I purchased the vehicle (I bought it this past November) and they said that it was temporary and would subside after driving it around a bit. Perhaps I need to get them cleaned? Sort of the same issue with the serpentine belts--they make a squeaking noise, especially on cold and/or rainy days. Is there some kind of spray I can use to fix this temporarily?

    I don't know about the First issue, but with your breaks issue, I would be curious how long the existing breaks have been on there. I know on my Impala for example it does squeal some times as dust will get on the rotors sometimes, but it also will squeal a bit after the pad has worn down. If you are not sure which is the case it can't hurt to have the tire taken off too look to see how it wears. I'm about ready to put a new front set on my car, and the mechanic there said you figure on a front wheel drive car with the weight being how it is that you'll go through two sets of pads normally over the rear, of course thats given the particular quality pads I'm running. If you are running a low lifespan version they could wear faster I'm sure. (granted I'm not a mechanic, but this is what I've been told)